BearsFan315

Took some time to look at the wiring on the 1929, I am trying to figure out HOW the wiring is supposed to be done for the headlights/ lamps on my 1929. I have the Armor Coated Wire from the NEW Wiring harness routed to the front and in the wiring hold downs. I know that there is a Grommet that goes into the holes that are in the Radiator shell. These holes measure approx .781" Diameter. Here is a picture of the Wire from the Harness: it is three wires, with cloth insulation, as well as a metal wrap over the length. As for the Connectors, this is what I have: I know the wires go thru, get soldered, like button ends for electrical connection, that is no problem. This is the Bayonet Connector Shell I Know that slides on the Wire, and then slips over the 3-Wire Housing. Now I also have this piece, one end has a larger opening, and tapers to a smaller opening, we shall call this the Taper Adapter: Now I also was giving these, Metal Wire Looms/ Guards and told they go over over the wires to the Connector End, basically run through the hole in the radiator shell w/ grommet, to back of headlight/ lamp. They have a end cap on each end like this I am trying to FIGURE OUT HOW this is supposed to all go together. I have seen some with just the wire going through the Radiator Shell with the Armor Guard, NO Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, then I have seen some with the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards installed. Also which way and how does the Taper Adapter Mount, I know it goes on before the Bayonet Connector, taper end towards bayonet connector or towards the wire ?? If I need the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards how are they secured/ mounted to the Connector End of the wire to secure them ?? and do they just run into through the grommet with extra length inside the shell for movement, or are they cut to length and stop at the grommet ?? Any Pictures of how this is SUPPOSED to go together would be greatly appreciated.

Still working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Waiting on my Spark Plug Thread Chasing Tool to clean up the threads so I can Test Fire and Finish the Tune-Up, so I decided to Install the Fuel Filter, Screen, & Gasket I got from The Filling Station A Few weeks back. Some Pictures of the Process: Bottom of Fuel Pump, Mounting Surfaces Cleaned up Fuel Filter Screen & Neo Gasket (Cork was Standard) Drop In Paper Fuel Filter for lipped Glass Bowls Glass Bowl with Lip for Drop in Fuel Filter Fuel Filter in Glass Bowl Brass Filter Screen and Neo Gasket Installed in Fuel Pump All Assembled and Ready to Pump This was a pretty Quick & Easy job overall...

Had some time Sunday Night to install the Oil Pan Gasket !! Did a test fit, made sure the Gasket Fit and laid properly against each other, and no interferences. Installed the Oil Pump Spring and Screen on Oil Pump 1929 Oil Pump (Identification & Replacement) I Read and then Reread all the recommendations posted above about installing the gasket, and proceeded as follows: 1-Cleaned Gasket Mating Surfaces on Oil Pan and on Engine Block, Made sure no debris, film, oil, etc... 2-Applied a thin coat of Grease to the Engine block to assist in holding the Oil Pan Gasket in Place 3-Screwed in my homemade Alignment/ Guide Pins 4-Installed and seated the Side Oil Pan Gaskets, made sure they seated properly against the Bearing Caps wear the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat against them 5-Applied a Small Dab of Permatex 2 in the Corners where the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat 6-Installed the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets in the bearing Caps, made sure they were seated and aligned correctly 7-double checked all Oil Pan Gaskets to ensure holes are lined up, seated properly 8-Slowly & carefully installed the oil pan using the guide pins... Man they work great to keep the pan straight and in line, 1.00" is optimal length when installing Oil Pan while Engine is in Car 9-Inserted 2 screws to hold and position oil pan in place. 10-Installed Slotted Round head Machine Screws .625" long, with a Flat Washer against Oil Pan, then a Split Lock Washer, gently hand tight to hold pan in place. 11-assured everything was lined up and in their proper location 12-Tightend up all screws 13-Doubled checked and cleaned up !! Looks Great !! So Happy this is done, puts me close to test firing the Engine and moving forward with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Another Check on the List of Completed !! Need to move on the the next step...

Got the Oil Pan All Done, so Installed the Spring & Screen on the Oil Pump so that I can start to close it up Getting Closer to Test Firing !!

Ok, Working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action] I am verifying the Dipper Depth into the Trough. From doing my homework, Reading the Forums & Owners Manuals, etc... It seems that the recommended depth for the Dipper to dip into the trough is roughly 15/64" or .234". I did simple measuring, using straight edges, calipers, etc... and then confirmed/ verified my numbers by using the grease method Which was fun !! Would like to know what the proper depth should be for the rod dippers into the oil troughs to ensure proper oiling of the rods...

Decided to Put on a thin coat of Epoxy Sealer to fill in a few left over pin holes and imperfections. Then I let it cure properly, and put on a thin coat of CRC Protectant to protect from surface rust until it is painted and ready to install.

Here is a shot of the Valve Cover with Coat of Primer

Ok so I have applied my Epoxy Coat to the Inside of the Valve Cover, Allowed it to cure properly and then cleaned it up. Applied a coat on the outside to fill in the 2 holes that were punch, sanded and smoothed over the surface Need to put a prime coat on, check out how it looks and either put a little more filler or prime it over and paint it up for install

Well had some time last night to get back and work on the timing mainly the distributor & wires, after I Painted & Primed some parts, and applied some Resin/ Epoxy to my Valve Cover I removed the Distributor, rotated it 180 degrees so that the Rotor points to the number with Piston 1 set at TDC (Top Dead Center), under compression, & Flywheel Timing Mark @ 12deg. Here is what my Distributor and Rotor Looks like at this setting: I also swapped my mixed up Plug Wires so they are now in the correct order for Firing 1-5-3-6-2-4. Guess my next step would be to Set the Valve Clearances (COLD).

Ok so I cleaned up and applied my first coat of Resin/ Epoxy to the inside of the Valve Cover. Will let it cure, clean it up, check it apply a second coat, repeat until it is built back up and pin holes gone

Got some time this weekend to clean out the Center Main Bearing Oil Pockets. One of the pockets was PACKED FULL of sludge. Took my time and cleaned out each pocket and passage, then Blew it out with Cleaner and let dry. Then Filled the Main pocket up with oil and made sure it flowed across the other pockets and into the bearing. Also turned the engine over a few times to ensure the oil ran freely through the bearing and coated it. HOPEFULLY This completes my bottom half Clean Up and assessment. Now need to finish up the oil pan, get it painted, then install the Oil Pump Pick-Up Screen & Spring, Oil Pan Gasket, and then the Oil Pan. Anything Else I missed on the Bottom Half ??

Well threw down a few Coats of Primer on the Push Rod Cover then a few Coats of Engine Paint from The Filling Station. I am very pleased with the outcome and look of the Push Rod Cover !! Need to finish up my engine work then I can reinstall the Push Rod Cover with New Gasket.

Well threw down some primer on the Oil Pan this weekend. Looking Good so far. Need to do a little touch up on the inside of the pan, then will coat it with either a lite oil coat or some CRC Protectant for now. Then will paint and finish up the outside and be ready to install !!

Looking for a Good Condition, Gently USED or NEW (lol) Valve Cover fora 1929-1931 Chevrolet. Restoring my 1929 4 Door Sedan and recently cleaned up my Valve Cover only to Learn that it is covered in Pin Holes :/ Was the Early Style 1929 Cover, but will gladly entertain any variation that will fit PROPERLY !! A Few Picts of My Valve Cover Stripped: Valve Cover Exterior Photo Valve Cover Interior Photo Valve Cover Bottom Pin Hole Photo Valve Cover Top Pin Hole Photo Or HOW can I fix this. I was thinking that I could use an Epoxy of sorts and BUILD the material back up on the top surface. Basically a nice thin coat, enought to build of the thickenss and fill in the pin holes. But What Epoxy to withstand the Oil !!

Ok, got my Oil Pan back last night It looks great, ready for Prime & Paint, They did a good job filling int he pin holes and building up the material !! Few Pictures of the Stripped & Repaired Oil Pan: Now need to prime & Paint the exterior, then will do a dipper clearance check to make sure dippers DO NOT hit!! Gonna do the Grease Method, fill troughs with grease and then install, spin engine, check clearances, adjust then I can install gasket and pan, and complete the bottom half of engine !!

Ok, got my Push Rod Cover back last night It looks great, ready for Prime & Paint, then install new gasket, seal it up and reinstall !! Few Pictures of the Stripped Push Rod Cover:

Ok, got my Valve Cover back last night Unfortunately he was UNABLE to weld up the punched holes due to the thinness of the metal. Actually looks like that over time moisture has set on the top inside of hte cover and slowly rusted and eaten away the metal. Maybe why Chevrolet Changed the design and installed the Vents to allow the moisture and air to escape preventing, or at least slowing down the erosion process. A Few Picts of My Valve Cover Stripped: Now question is HOW can I fix this. I was thinking that I could use an Epoxy of sorts and BUILD the material back up on the top surface. Basically a nice thin coat, enought to build of the thickenss and fill in the pin holes. I was looking at: Permatex Offerings: Permatex® PermaPoxy™ 4 Minute Multi-Metal Epoxy Stick Permatex® Cold Weld Bonding Compound Loctite Offerings: Loctite® Repair Putty Multi-Purpose Loctite® Epoxy Weld™ Bonding Compound Loctite® Metal Filled Epoxy Putty JBWeld Offerings: J-B Weld KwikWeld I really like the ones that are Petroleum Resistant and Cure Completely Hard. Do NOT want them coming lose and getting INTO the Engine. Any thoughts or recommendations ??

Looking for Rocker Arms for my 1929 Chevrolet 194 ci. Mainly looking for Individual Rocker Arms in Good Condition, or May be interested in the Complete Rocker Arm Assembly if Rocker Arms are in good condition and Price is Right !! Rocker Arm Part No: 835676 Just shoot me a PM !!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Had some time last night to install the Wicks. Thanks to Chipper for his instructions and information about removing the Valve Rocker Arms and such. I followed his information and removed both rocker arms. I tried a few methods on installing the wicks, based on various recommendation on the EASIEST way to install them. I tried installing straight from the package, tried rolling them in my fingertips then installing, tried light coat of oil then installing, and then what I found to be the easiest for me was to put on a light coat of oil then roll in my fingertips, and then roll then install, they slid right in !! Once they were all installed, I reinstalled the Valve Rocker Arms and made sure the protruding wick tips sat up on the top of the Push Rod Tips so that the wicks could feed oil to the balls. I torqued everything down and then spun the engine around a few times and reinspected. I will check & retorque the Rocker Arms once I run the engine, That is once I am done with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action] Some Pictures: This should be it for the Valve Rocker Arm Wick Installation, If I have missed ANYTHING, or If there is anything that looks wrong, PLEASE let me know !!

Ok, so Last night I filled up the Side Pockets with oil, and the oil distributed across the three pocket as I filled it up. I used my mirror to check and confirm this. Once I filled up the rear & front oil pockets and ensured that the oil had distributed evenly, I spun the motor around a few turns to verify oil in the bearings. A little murky oil came out the bottom hole on both front & rear (Ball Check). Then oil ran nice golden brown. I topped off the pockets with oil. Think that this should be all to do on the Engine Oil Pockets and Ball Check. PLEASE let me know if I left anything out or should do ANYTHING ELSE in regards to the Engine Oil Pockets & Ball Check ?!?

Ok think I got it figured out... Looks like the Pass Through Holes from the three pockets were CLOGGED. Cleaned them out with a small wire, and then blew them out with Spray Cleaner. Everything flows smoothly now from the side pockets over. So the Horizontal Oil Line feeds the deep side pocket, as it fills up, passes through the hole and fills up the standpipe pocket, and fills of the third pocket wich is the camshaft pocket. Filled up pocket and oil flows freely across the three.

Ok, had time yesterday to check out the Oil Pockets & Ball Check. Ball moves easily and freely with out any hassle or trouble. The Pockets however were NASTY to say the least, removed about a 1/8" or more of sludge and grime. They are all clean now. My question is how is the oil pocket fed oil ?? is it fed from above or by the oil line running down the side of the engine. It looks like there are two pockets, looking at this picture The pocket on the left, directly above the crankshaft and main bearing is about 1.00" deep and has a stand pipe in the center, which I understand feeds the main bearing. But do not see how OIL is fed into this pocket. Is it fed from above or should it be fed by the Oil Feed Line ?? Then there is the pocket on the right, this pocket is deeper then the center pocket, and is currently fed by the oil feed line running down that side. Not sure the purpose of this pocket. does not seem to go anywhere or serve a purpose ??

NO Ball for the front, doesn't the front pocket also lubricate the timing GEAR or something of that sort ?? Figured once I cleaned them out & allowed them to dry I would put some oil back in there and spin the engine by hand a few times around to get the oil back in the bearings and lubed up. Here is a shot of the Standpipe Pocket (Pocket above the bearing), Oil Pocket w/ standpipe Used my mirror to get this shot. Should this horizontal oil line dump directly into the standpipe pockets or into the side pockets as they currently are, dumping oil into the side pockets NEXT to the Standpipe Pockets. Does not look like the Standpipe Pocket & Side Pockets are connected to allow oil to flow into the standpipe pockets !? What is the purpose of the side pockets ?? Why dump oil into them??

I have gotten the oil out of the pockets, since I have small hands. I need to clean them out. In way of solvent I Plan to use brake cleaner, throttle/ carb cleaner ?? Thinking the spray kind with the straw, this would clean with some pressure and remove more stubborn sludge & debris, then blow it out and dry with compressed air. Will Wear Eye Protection for sure, I ALWAYS have it on when I am working on the 1929 !! When I do this part I will grab the face shield as well, that is easier to clean up then I am !!

Back to work on the 1929 with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. One thing that was mentioned to me was to check the check ball in the bearings to make sure they are free. Now is there a ball in the front and the rear, or only the rear ?? On my 1929 on the front there is a passage, no ball, but on the rear there is a pin, ball next to it and I can move the ball around and push it back freely with a small wire. Is there any way to clean out the passage and the Oil pockets above while the engine is in the car ?? Would like to drain the oil out of hte pockets, make sure the pockets are clean of sludge and grime. Want to take care of this before i close up the bottom end and move to the top end. Still waiting for parts to get back from shop.