avgwarhawk

Duly noted sir. I appreciate the heads up on this filter set up!!! When I was assembling the glass portion to the body the screw portion that secures the glass bowl to the body concerned me. Nothing there to keep it from unscrewing while driving. With your information concerning these filters I will either add a dab of Lock-tite(non-permanent formula) or fine wire the hand screw portion to prevent it from backing off. And of course keep an eye on it!!!!!

For me, anything over the 2 1/2" is not appealing to my eye. What you have on the Special looks right, feels right and is right. Just one man's opinion! Enjoy!

Three reasons I wanted/needed to go back to the original part application: 1. Just looks right and cool as you observed 2. It is the correct set up 3. The use of a straight filter and rubber hose allows the gas to siphon back to the pump and eventually the tank making for long crank times. I physically see the gas siphon back through the visible filter. With this correct filter housing in place there is no longer any siphon of the gas to the pump and tank.

Similar material would be a radial tire tread or sidewall area with metal running through the rubber?

I was able to score a fuel bowl/filter housing and bracket. The original long since gone. Noted above I replaced with a off the shelf filter. Replaced the rubber hoses. But me being me....I had to find the correct filter housing.

Double hood ornaments!

Thanks for the tips! Catastrophic failure has a real bad ring to it. Fusick carries the valve. I'll dig into at the end of the month. I have a very busy next few weeks. As far as daily driving I can see that very easily. Very comfortable car to drive. The day I purchased I drove 188 miles. It was pleasurable.

This is why I drink Scotch and water. Hold the water.

Plus...the Capt is there! Dandy Dave can attest to that!

Elvis is just making sure you did not swipe his blankets out of the house to cover Buicks!!

I know the feeling!!!! I use the "honey do list" to wipe the oil dipstick clean before replacing back in the block. That's when the trouble started.

Good golly Lamar. You just sold and unloaded a bunch of stuff only to acquire more bunches of stuff!

Looking good!

One thing is for certain, you always have something to drive! Nice collection!

Holy smokers! You can hold Sunday service with this building!

Hello Bob, I did some more investigation and it would be the heater box is removed entirely from the inside. Mine is a non-a/c car. I did read that the control valve is generally the culprit. I took a look through the access door and did not see the telltale moisture or smell it for that matter. I also wiped around with my finger only to find no moisture. Driving home from the show I got the brief smell of antifreeze when I put the heat on. At any rate, I suspect the valve and will tackle the repair. Not the first heater core I have done. Thankfully it is not a Ford/Mercury where the entire dash is in your lap to get at the core. Oh, and a 98 Dodge mini-van. That's another story. Thanks for the tip and Belden cable nuisance.

Another 60 on the road this weekend!

I have on my 54. I call it motor surfing. Its a crappy spot.

It appears I have a leak at the heater core or control valve. I smell the sickening sweet antifreeze when engaging the heat. Fog on windows. I opened a small access door under the dash for the cable. It is dry inside. I see partial the core. I suspect the control valve my be the culprit as the coolant smell lasts about 5 minutes. Then its fine. Removal of the core cover is not difficult? Any tips on any dreaded hidden nut/bolt that needs to come out for the heater box removal ? Is the experience of most it is found the valve is found leaking?

Strangely enough the car had an aftermarket Sears a/c unit that the previous owner had removed. I have the instruction on installing and working this unit from Sears. But yeah, a/c systems as well as other goodies(like pollution control devices) can make maintenance difficult. I can remember the Chevy Chevette having to remove the a/c compressor to access the distributor cap!!!

I manually pump oil into new lifter. Certainly not as efficiently as a running engine but for me it was an once of prevention. Worked fine as you know and the helpful phone call we had deciphering my cam/lifters/push rods are from a 55.

I presoaked my new lifters when completing a cylinder head job on my 264.. Laid each lifter on their side with the open hole to the top. Small bubbles of air escaped. I then used a push rod and pumped what oil I could into each. I installed the new lifters on a cam with an estimated 10k on it. The engine, when started, required time to fill each lifter as expected. You see, no matter how much I think I can manually pump oil into a new lifter I simply can't pump each like a rotating crank and oil pump. Each clattered and got quiet as the engine was maintained at 1500 rpm. Nothing got bent or broken. The cam did not grind itself into fine shavings. The engine has just over 1000 miles on it since this repair. Runs like a watch. Video of the day she was started. Lifters filled and running fine:

I like it.

Small repairs continue. I found the original vacuum actuator of heat blend door held open with a very small Bungie cord. Been there quite sometime. Very old. I figure the actuator was leaking vacuum and or the cable that was off the blower fan speed controller lead to an additional problem of the blend door not opening. Previous owner not understanding how the system worked or the cable off the arm for the speed controller was not diagnosed and repaired. Possible he could not find the part. It is a mystery. At any rate, the blower fan controller cable I reattached as posted above. I replaced the blend door vacuum actuator. The actuator vacuum hose connects to the cable speed controller. From there the vacuum source is off the manifold. Once the fan switch on the dash and heat is selected the vacuum actuator pulls open the blend door. It works as designed now. Bungie went in the trash. I have a set of springs for the rear and shocks for all four corners. Next weeks project. I also found the original glass bowl fuel filter assembly is missing. I found one on Ebay. I have the filter for it coming. Also a project for this week.