avgwarhawk

Wiring new deck speakers. You're doing in wrong.

Great pictures! Great adventure!

It does not appear the nuts and bolts provided to much resistance in wanting to come loose. My Buicks have been the same when removing a nut or bolt that has been secured over 60 years. It amazes me.

I run a 3 speed manual in my 54. The gear ratio is unique in the respect that 1st is so low the engine at idle will move the car along in traffic without feathering the clutch as you go. In short, I really do not row the pedal all that much in stop/go traffic. Just sputter along. Even in a parade. First is so low I normally start off in 2nd gear when on level ground. However, the 3 speed screams for a 4th gear overdrive. If she had a 4th gear overdrive the manual would be wonderful. At highway speeds the rpm are high but a darn torque monster. My 264 will squat and go at highway speeds when in 3rd. 75+ mph is in the cards as well. She keeps up with traffic without issue. The manual does drip here and there. I have the best of both worlds.... My 60 has the Dynaflow. As you know, just step and go. The Dynaflow, although a heavy drinker(trans fluid) it is a wonderful piece of engineering. If I had my choice, I would go Dynaflow. The 3rd pedal is nice. Less leaks, etc. But overall, missing the 4th gear overdrive for me makes it just short of being perfect.

I was worried about harsh chemicals as well. ZEP 505 works well.(Home Depot/Lowes) I do recommend rubber gloves as it also removes your natural oils from your hands if used extensively without gloves. Drys your out the skin on your hands. You do not pass out from the fumes. However, if my hands do get greasy I use a spray or two and rinse. Grease is gone and hands feel fine. In fact, I don't use Orange Pumice hand cleaner any longer. Just a sprits of ZEP 505 work it around and rinse.

My cables have been changed but the cable from the junction to the starter is original. There is a rubber shrink type insulation as seen in the picture.

Been there and done that! I use ZEP 505 grease remover. Works well and safer that other degreasers.

New set of Coker 2 1/2 WW bias ply on the rear installed this weekend. There is no doubt the US Royals have been on the Buick for quite some time. Repacked the front wheel bearings. I like a bit more bearing grease then what was there. Inspected all brake components. All return springs, cylinders, hard lines, shoes and master have less than 600 miles on them. Good to go. Wrap this up with a new fuel pump and carb rebuild. Look into the heater core/valve at the end of summer.

Joe, I found this video that is quite good at explaining the torque converter. It is quite a clever design.

I remember the slide carousel. My father was big into photography and had his pictures on slides. He would load in the carousel for us to look on a screen.

Been a while Ben. I just remember two pieces. Trans and bell housing. ?. I remarked how much easier it was to deal with than the one piece manuals when puling it our.

Same for me sir. I kind of had an idea but never really delved into it. Fluid coupling is ingenious. There are some folks that not only think outside the box but also engineer the box. One of these "outside the box" is the Dynaflow.

More than likely you will pull the manual anyway. Honestly, once the torque tube/rear is out of the way removing the manual from the bell housing is a 4 bolt affair. Might was well take it out and replace the seals from front to back. There are gasket kits available if I'm not mistaken. Then of course you know if your in there might as well pull the bell housing and replace the clutch assembly. You know how it snowballs!!!!!

I never really understood how a converter operated until I watched this 13 minute US Army informational video created in 1954. It is simplified but enough to understand what is going on under that transmission hump.

Pilgrim, What exactly is leaking. The front input shaft seal? Rear torque ball seal? Perhaps both? For the rear torque ball seal look for a vulcanized torque ball seal. No shims required. Works well. I believe most of the usual parts suppliers can offer the vulcanized torque ball seal. Concerning the input shaft seal, I had to make one. Depending on what type of shaft your manual has. One shaft requires a ring type seal. At least that what was used in my 54. I switched to a 55 manual that required a flat ring seal that I made from cork material. Original 54 manual. Ring seal is located at the base of the shaft: Look closely at the base of the input shaft on the 55 manual. There is a cork seal that once compressed takes on a cone shape and seals. I had to make a flat piece to accomplish this. This is the simple piece I cut. Works just fine. There may be one in a kit but if you don't need the entire kit like me. make one.

Thanks for the tip!

Bill, I took a quick look a week or so ago. First place of course was looking at the fuse. Trusty test light found power on one side and not the other. But, the fuse inside looked ok. No matter. Went to replace it. As I worked on removing the fuse power was found through the fuse and clock was working. Of course humans being humans we adjust our clocks to the correct time. It was at this juncture the clock stopped again. I did not recheck the fuse at that time. I had a laundry list of items to tend to. I will tackle the fuse once again. If it test good the clock will come out for a clean and oiling. Thanks for the tip!

Diaphragm likely holed. Not good on fuel pumps and other types of diaphragms.

And out with the old and in with the new. I have two new Cokers on the way. Clock appears to want to work so need to look into that a bit more. Fuel pump replacement next and related rubber hose from pump to steel line running inside the frame. Check on the heater core or control valve possible coolant leak at one or both. Rebuild carb. That will be all!

Done!

Larry, Amazon. $29.00 and worth it in my opinion. Every zerk fitting was lubed well and no mess dropping on the floor.

I feel like Johnny Cash. One piece at a time. Out with the old and in with the new..