Model56s

Thanks Jack and at the time that also crossed my mind, but the charge settled down a little over a week ago and now reads slight positive. All good.

That E Type elicits, er, mixed emotions.

Enjoying this thread!

Now see, that would have been logical!

Agreed. I charged the battery when I got it in July and the voltage read 6.35, so I figured it was charged. My concern was overcharging the battery. I don’t have a feel for how long to charge, or at what rate. My charger has a 2A and 6A setting, but no longer an issue!

Update, and to close this out for those looking to convert to an alternator. The charging settled back to slight positive while running, so that indicates the battery needed charging and when charged drew less current. The slight positive charge remains when the headlights are on. it is nice to drive at night again!

In Missouri, the choice is a newly issued antique plate or YOM. The YOM are considered antique plates and the car is restricted to 1,000 miles per year, as with antique plates, but I’ve never been checked. Initial registration for YOM is valid indefinitely. Like Michigan, a picture of the plate, a check for about $30 and request form is mailed and you get a response approved or denied. Denial would result if the same number combination already issued.

A treasure. I especially like the pattern and color on the dash finish. Does it have the flat head 6 or the hemi v8?

Hi Bloo, much obliged! “Is that the little relay on the back?” It is, and agree with your point ”…crank all the time…push button…” The push button is connected to the inboard (little) solenoid lead, either would work since the switch is in series. “That is confusing. For the record, the regulator's "BAT" terminal on a generator system…” I chose the “A” lead due to the assumption that the current flows from the commutator (armature) and its wire gauge on the schematic . The 1949 generator had no internal regulator. The schematic is aligns with your observations regarding the ammeter connection.

The response in this thread is very much appreciated. Attached is the original wiring diagram (thank you Old Car Manual Project) showing the original connections regarding the starter solenoid, generator, voltage regulator and ammeter. I found that for the car to start with the alternator installed and no voltage regulator, the 16GC lead from the outboard solenoid terminal had to be connected to ground and the inboard solenoid lead to the positive ammeter lead and the single alternator lead. The alternator lead replaced the generator's Armature lead ("A" on the schematic). The vacuum starter switch on the base of the carburetor does not work and was replaced by an inline push button switch.

Thank you all for your input. Bloo shared my concern that "the voltage is going crazy and boiling the battery". I bought the long-style 6v battery in July (1150 cranking amps, NAPA). I'll run the voltage checks as suggested; the battery is clearly full charged based on a static voltage test (6.35v) and the response from the starter. I'm wondering if I should put a resistor in the circuit...it shouldn't need this though. The single lead from the alternator is connected to the two leads that were originally connected to the BAT and GEN posts of the voltage regulator: the 10g lead to one side of the ammeter and 12g lead from one side of the starter solenoid, respectively. This was at the suggestion of the local builder of the 6v alternators. He is the go-to for Model A owners for alternator conversions.

I recently installed a 1-wire 6v alternator on my 49 Buick Super. under the generator and voltage regulator regime, the headlights immediately showed a large and constant discharge which eventually drained the battery. I can now use the headlights without draining the battery. However, The ammeter is now showing a significant and constant positive charge, only slightly reduced by the headlights. Is this constant positive charge OK, or am I damaging something? Also, the alternator gets pretty warm.

Great example of this irreplaceable piece of history. I’ve never driven a Model A, but would bet it’s probably too much fun!

I just saw this account of your restoration Sebastien, very impressive!

beautiful

NiCop is an alloy of nickel & copper and can be bent by hand, with no kinking if careful. The tubing took double flares nicely in my cheap handheld flaring tools.

Hi Brian, I had the pleasure of meeting you and your father on separate occasions at the National meet in Lisle last year and regret finding this post only last week. I would have enjoyed a conversation as I was in the middle of a body-off-frame restoration of my own at the time (since finished). Is there a reason you aren’t using NiCop tubing?

I just completed a body-off restoration of a panel truck. All advice above about taking pictures is very sound, especially what ILikeCars53 said. Overnight I would forget the position/orientation/whatever of a part and spent a lot of time researching. On one occasion I had at least a dozen pictures of a section, only to find a critical corner showing how a part was mounted was missing in all images. I quickly regretted discarding old parts and stopped the practice - repros don’t always fit and the old one would have been a useful reference. I kept a spreadsheet of all expenditures (cost, item, source account and vendor) which clarified a lot of trade off decisions later as I watched the costs mount. In hindsight I would add a purchase date column. The result is the book value of the truck is 34% higher than the total cost. Plus, the spreadsheet gave me a quick and easy reference of my suppliers. Have you set a deadline? Although I overshot my deadline, it drove the completion and the truck was on the road after 1 year & 8 months. If something happened to me I didn’t want to leave my wife a pile of parts in the garage. Half way through the project I insured the truck for what I had in it at the time and increased the coverage upon completion. Good luck and don’t hesitate to ask questions here.

Jeff, this is way cool!

Exercised the panel truck.

Your car is a great starting point for a young person looking to get into the antique car hobby. Plus there are Pontiac fans across the country. Determine the fair price you want for it before starting the effort and never add OBO (“or best offer”) after the price. Hemmings and other antique/collector car market sites (Just Google “1951 Pontiac for sale”) are good places to determine value by seeing what they listed and in many cases sold for. eBay motors will show sold and bidding prices. Also, list on Hemmings.com. Since it’s safe to drive, put a For Sale sign in the window with your phone number only and use it for grocery shopping and errands. eBay motors is a last resort as is Craig’s List. Facebook Marketplace is a good venue, everyone I’ve dealt with on FB Marketplace was reputable. Join the Pontiac Owners Club (POCI) and affiliate with the local chapter. Someone there may be interested in it or assist you with any work if you like the car and decide to keep it.

Marc, great story! I was stationed at the submarine base at Ballast Point on Point Loma from 73-77 and always loved San Diego. I finished college at UCR in 79, so I spent a lot of time in Southern California. I absolutely love the state. My youngest son and I spent a week in San Diego about a month ago, his first time in California - an hour or two after we got in the rental car he was on his phone looking at apartment rentals! The 40s Mopar 3 window business coupes have grown on me, like the 49-50 Nash Ambassador and 49 step down Hudson, and I really like the look now. I appreciate your car and how you’re proceeding. Your 40 year wait for AI to come along and guide you was a wise move 😂. I finished a body-off restoration of my own in April, so I know you are well on your way. Looking forward to your first drive since 1980!

Safelite installed the curved windshield on my ‘56 Chevrolet truck and used the adhesive. A friend who has done his own windshields does not use the adhesive because it will make a mess if you don’t do windshields all the time. He says he’s never had a leakage problem. He is very competent.

I would not have paid more than $8k.

He was asking $14k, significantly high IMHO.