jenz38

Valk, Yes I don't like this modern and rugged style of the Carter ,the Choke mechanic, and for my fine tune important : the many available Jets ,levers and linkage like the classic clean looking prewar correct Stromberg. I had think about other pre war Carb models..,the Holley 81 too,but I've seen so many problems with all this Carbs that using vacuum Powervalves ,especially the risk for blowing a PV while a possible backfire. Bruce , I'm in the 7,5 to 8 comp ratio range with oem Wristpins and Rods.., not so high because I like it sounds smooth and nondescript in Idle. Also because of the historical registration I have. The Government, Police,and the Tüv (technical inspection every second year) don't like loud,rough "hot rods". Since the last years they are very hard here with american customs and all kind of Rods. Somtimes they make big Police controls in front of Car meetings and they confiscated them to check for street legal and clean Paper.

Looks like nearly a period correct Engine..,that's what I want..;-).. (Plug wires and coil are here on this pic the old ones)

Overbored to 84mm BMW Car Pistons ,block decked, head milling 2mm, bigger I+E valves with 8mm stems, hydr. Lifter switched over to mech. from a 248 3 speed Engine, complete Intake and Exhaust porting Job, mild cam,balanced Crankshaft and Rods, custom flywheel 3 kg lighter and balanced , boltcircle matched for a Dynaflow Crankshaft to fit to my 3 speed Box with a Cherokee 4.0 Clutch. Compound Carb Manifolds, dual 2,5" exhaust with smithys ,two Big 97Strombergs with bigger jets, Holley marine stainless Airfilter, 12 V Pertronix Ignition with lighter Weights in the Distributor ,Flametrower Coil, copper Plugswires (w/o any internal resistance), Had preparing the Oil main gallery in the Block for full (7/8" inner diameter) oil filtering and external spin on adapter with one big Oilfilter ,also an Oilcooler in front of my Radiator. hidden automatic electric Fan in front of my Radiator for a nice cool down after stop the hot Engine, better cooling in traffic jam, no permanent Fan noise, healthy Water pump Bearings, better engine accelerating, more space and no danger for my fingers in engine compartment while engine running.

Her'e some Pics from my since 17 Years everlasting-project-vacation-race-fun-'38 Special Coupe 😉 :

MAN !!! exactly this constellation was my dream car before I bought my '38 Buick Special Coupe 16 years ago and make it fast with a hopped up 263 engine. (Had read California Bill's speed manual and fall in love with this..,but its impossible here in Germany to get a 270 GMC Engine ). WM,a tip from me before you installing the Wheel cylinder, disassemble each one and put it together again with a special Grease for brake cylinder. A common problems are stuck/rusted pistons after one or two years,because they are completely dry out of the box. That's my experiences with all this Cylinder.( I'm a professional mechanic) With my master cylinder I had switched over to a one from a cj5 Jeep with an adapter plate . It's the same diameter,its cheap and with less problems available.. 😉 Happy new Year to you all.

For sale, not mine, just founded. https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/oldtimer-buick-8-9-kruemmer-baujahr-1931/1181520773-223-2061?utm_source=sharesheet&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android

Many cars of my Customers here too have the green Wheel Switch. I put it in also ,in my shop if the 50 or 60 years old electric in the Cars looks " critical"... Important is before installing ,to disassemble it and lube it complete with Battery-Grease. Then they've no contact problems especially on the small point under the Wheel. Myself use one like this : https://www.walmart.com/ip/Heavy-RV-On-Off-Off-Trailer-Vehicles-Auto-Knife-Disconnect-24V-12V-Duty-Battery-Truck-Kill-6V-Post-Doctor-Switch-Shut-250-750-Top-Switch-Car-Cutoff-A/454957724 Looks more old style in my Compartment than the ugly green Wheel ( the ones with black wheels are rare,but then,OK ..😉). The only Reason for have a Bat Switch in my 38 ( 12 V with complete new wiring) is only the power consumption from the original Time Watch ,if the Car parking for a week or longer.

Yes, l think so too, allignment and also sealing.

I would also check each cell of the Battery for its acid,/loading with a acid tester, all cells must have the same capacity.( loaded, or unloaded doesn't matter) If one Cell capacity is not like the other the cell begins to sulfating, it can makes problems like yours.

If you use a gasket, copper or something else,you don't use the rings anymore.. 😉

I had the same Problem , Original, there is no gasket,the intake have the rings inside and the Exhaust had a graphite grease between Head and EM to let them moving because of the heat expansion in lengths. Don't try to pull a bended Cast Manifold down tight with the bolts..,a cracket EM can be the result . If it's only the rear runner thats not match with the Intake ? If yes,than bring it to a Maschineshop for that they planning the complete Intake/Exhaust combo down to a matching surface..,I had do that too. Then it's no problem to use the copper gaskets ( Best Gasket offer its too) If all EM surfaces don't match with the IM ,then I would align intake to exhaust first.

I have also no spacer in rear on my 263 with the comp carb system...,it works ,with shorter studs ,without Problems.

Michael, where do you life? Can't find a introducing from you.

The Filter is mounted to the Frame..,because its easier and a cleaner Job to change it.. And there also on, is a sandwich adapter for an Oilcooler in front of my Radiator... The Temperature went to hot on Autobahn while towing my Caravan for Hours, at 55 mph ,in Summer.

Great ..🙂👍🏼... And sorry guys.. you're right....,I forgot this spiral Springs.

A Spring ?... my 38 Coupe has also no springs...,only the Supports. I put one of these out because of too much weight and also a (for me) not necessarily mechanism where i must work again while lift the Lid. Frank, you can post a Pic from your mounted Springs ?...I'm interested in this.. By the way, the Lid is heavy by it's own Weight...my wife can't open it too... 😉

Here My Ride .. Last News, 2 Big 97 Strombergs on my overbored 263 (now 283) with comp Carb and double 2,5" exhaust. Runs great, on 1/8 mile its enough for a 68 Mustang 289 4V ...😎

Here's a topic from Nov.2018 to this .... hope it helps. I think, theres a Problem with a not correct adjusted Shiftfork Lever 2-3 ,outside of the Box.

Jim, The Belt is'nt slipping ,if the Compressor is switch on ? ..and how far is fallin the Idle .. ?.. I think, your WP (-bearing) makes a hard Job now...😉

There's no problems to have fun with a 263, included compound carburetion system AND dual front Exhaust Tubes yet , if you have a prewar (especially a light S40 Coupe) ...😎... Sorry Guys....,I could'nt deny myself that little Joke..😉..