36 D2 Coupe

Good information! I need to get some hood corners for my '36 and this will make sure I get the right ones. Thanks for your continuing supply of pictures and spec. Jim

OUCH!!!! I tried a similar stunt with a table saw a number of years ago and split my left thumb. Oddly it didn't hurt until a while later when they tried to stitch it up. Must be adrenaline and shock. I wish you a speedy recovery. Your work on this car has been nothing short of amazing and we're all itching to see the final product. But at your request, we'll try to be patient. Best regards, Jim Hazlewood

I'm looking for the simiar plate for 1936 Canadian Dodge. If you or we can find readable copies I have a source that make this kind of name plate. I'd be happy to work with you to get some made, correct for whatever years you can find. I ran my request in another thread, as did a fellow looking or one for Canadian '36 DeSoto. Any help would be appreciated. Jim

The hub caps with the raised ends are for US production. My Canadian (Windsor Ontario built) RS coupe has the smooth caps and I presume many of the export cars - depending on their country of manufacture - could have either type. I didn't know about the caps with the raised ends until I got one from an American friend and discovered the difference. Another difference is that my smooth domed caps have the spring mounting clips on the flange on the cap, not on the wheel as shown by 1936 D2's pictures. My wheels have the same spoke configuration as 1936 D2's but there is a ring welded around the hubcap opening in the rim to catch the clips on the hub cap. Your rims look more like some truck and Plymouth rims I have seen. Also like '34-5 DeSoto Airflow rims. It seems that when it came to production there wasn't necessarily only one way that the company made some parts. Does anyone have any idea of the logic that went with these variations?:confused: Jim

Do you have a sample of the original colour from someplace on the car that is not oxidized or weathered? Some paint shops can do a match using a type of sophisticated scanner. It creates the formula to get the colour you need. I still have a bit of the original paint on my RS Coupe that was hidden under the horn grille fairings. I think before I strip everything I'll try to get a match made up for my car. Your other option would be to sit down with a paint chip book from your local paint store and try to match a sample of your original colour. The paint chips I have for '36 Dodge are aged and I doubt if they are exactly like they were in '36. Maybe someone with more experience has some better ideas. Jim

I'll second the motion - Phil has done a fine job and I agree - the cover photo is outstanding. Makes me wish I had a '29 Dodge roadster! For any of you who do not yet belong to the Dodge Brothers Club - give it a serious look. I think you'd really enjoy it and the great information you can get from the members. Jim

Still looking for someone with a Canadian Dodge Manufacturer's tag we can copy. Anyone out there with an intact tag that's readable?:confused:

I just responded to a fellow from BC in the DeSoto forum looking for a Canadian DeSoto Manufacturer's Tag sample so he can get one reproduced. I need one for my Canadian '36 Dodge and would be willing to start a project for Canadian DPCD cars Manufacturer's Tags if I can get readable samples and some interest. I know a firm that can make EXACT reproductions if some kind folks could lend us readable samples to copy. These are different from the currently available US examples. C'mon now, wouldn't you like to have a spiffy new tag for your Windsor-built car? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help us. Jim Hazlewood

I am looking for a readable tag for our Canadian '36 Dodge RS Coupe so that we can get some made too - we're in the same boat as you are. Is your tag readable enough to copy? I know a firm here in Ontario that can do an exact repro if we have enough to work from. In the mean time if anyone can loan us both original Canadian manufacturer's tags to work from, (all DPCD cars from the 30s welcome!) I can get you some very nice repros made. All I have for mine is a rusted oval - the paint is gone and I can't make out the details. These would really dress up an original or a restoration. Jim Hazlewood

Thanks for the lead Vic. I'll get in touch with John and see what he's got and maybe ask about a couple of other things as well. Jim

Bernie - Man, I admire your determination and resolve to do everything in its proper order and time. With the car looking this good and spring around the corner I don't know if I could resist the temptation to get her going, even if I had to sit on a butter box. It has been a wonderful transformation and we're all looking forward to seeing her move out for the first time. You're teaching us patience too, a virtue we could probably use more of. Congratulations! Best, Jim

Now THAT is useful information. Thanks very much for posting that picture. I will seek out owners of '36 Dodge parts cars in the hope that someone has a spare seat anchor pin that we can use on our RS Coupe. Any of our thread followers have such a beast? Best, Jim

Bob - Thanks for posting pictures of your floor pan. This helps me to see where the pin should be. It is definitely missing on my car. An interesting note is the little spring retainer clip protruding from the front of the pin. I can see how it might have been torn off at some point by someone trying to remove the lower cushion. The sound deadening material in my car is fitted in two pieces - left and right - with the rear end hump cut out and not covered. Keep us posted with your progress. I'll try to help whenever I can Jim

Hi Bob - Happy to be able to help. I had another look at the lower seat cushion and the floor pan of the rumble seat area. The front tab on the bottom of the seat frame has a 1/4" hole suitable for a bolt or anchor pin. Looking at the floor pan, there doesn't appear to be either a hole or a pin so I assume that the pin has broken off. At the moment the tab on the seat cushion frame faces forward but that poses an issue for feet and ankles so it probably should be rotated 180 degrees to project back underneath the seat frame where the pin likely would have been located. Maybe you can tell me where your pin is located. The floor pan is covered with a heavy tar/felt paper type of sound deadening material maybe as much as 1/8" thick that would have cushioned the metal seat frame from the floor pan to keep it quiet. What I am missing is the material that covers the front of the rumble seat compartment. Is it the same type of black clad hardboard that is on the sides? I haven't removed the body from the frame so can't comment on the number of body bolts holding it down. That project is still some way off for me. I'm glad to hear that you are finally able to get this project under way. It really does feel good to make progress after a long wait. Best regards Jim

Hi there 35cz8 - I'll have a look at my '36 RS Coupe. The rumble seat lower cushion just anchors to the floor of the seating area. There are two flat metal tabs measuring 1 1/2" X 3/4" riveted to the bottom of the seat frame at the rear, protruding 3/4" towards the rear. These tabs fit into corresponding sockets on the floor to hold the back of the lower cushion down. In the center front there is a similar tab only this one has a hole for a screw to anchor it to the floor. So to remove the lower rumble seat cushion, you simply remove the screw in the front tab and pull the cushoin forward to disengage the rear tabs from the sockets. Lift up and you have it in your hands. The bottom of the seat frame is a metal/wire assembly similar to the rear seat cushion. No wood involved. Have a look at the floor of your coupe and see if you can find the two sockets that take the seat anchor tabs. If you didn't know what they were for you might have overlooked them. Hope this helps. Jim Hazlewood

I just went to the VanDerBrink website - I think they have the whole truck there - just need to swap the tank body off the International onto the chassis shown as jpg001 that has the Airflow cab with a guy standing in front of it and some oddball unit mounted behind it. So you would have to buy two lots to get it all. Still, if you are into heavy trucks, what a way to go! Doing a rough mental tally of the Airflow trucks I am aware of, including this one, there are at least 7 and may be more like 10 or so. There was a real beauty fully restored in Texaco colours in the Henry Ford Museum in Detroit. Hope someone with the passion and the $$$ to finish it gets it. Jim Hazlewood

What a beautiful car! Now I'm jealous - my coupe needs to look this good. This is truly inspiring - and I like the color. Great job Steve! Jim

Just a note based on my limited experience with a partial rebuild - we did one years ago on our 218 and neglected to do the camshaft bearings. Result was very low oil pressure when it warmed up. When it comes out to be done properly, it'll get a lot of new innards. Good luck with your project. Hope to see what it looks like when it's done. Jim

Mouchy - I used to have one of those nipple arrangements that goes into the radiator return hose but don't know where it went. I just came back from a wrecking yard with a bunch of older stuff absolutely buried in brush and weeds and trees. There might be something like that in there if one could find it. By the way, what do you have for a heater? I have an extra heater that appears to be correct for Dodge as it is illustrated in the accessory flyer for '36. I've repaired and painted the body and had the rad tested. Only problem is the motor is fried - too many years in the rain and snow in another wrecking yard - but if it doesn't have to function, it looks good. Send me a PM if you are interested. Jim

It's good to hear independent endorsements for RI from three different sources. I'll get in touch with them and see what we can work out. Thanks guys! Jim

Thanks everyone for the helpful info. I need to order a complete wiring harness for our '36 Dodge Coupe but was not aware of the difficulty with the connection between the headlight bucket and the harness. I'll have to be very careful with what I have - the car was converted to sealed beams and some of this was lost. When I have it reassembled to my satisfaction, I may have a sealed beam kit available if anyone is that desperate! There has been mention of several companies which make wiring harnesses - what are your experiences with any one of them - good, bad or indifferent? While price might be an issue, quality and completeness is right up there too. Jim

Here is a link to Hunley Acuff's website. You might want to look there for running board rubber. I had him do the running board covers for my '36 Dodge RS Coupe and they are just excellent - an exact repro of the originals. With the '36 I had to supply the cores for the mats - these attach to the running board itself with multiple tabs that fit through holes in the running boards. My cores were shot so it was a bit of a process to make new ones with the correct tabs. He is not cheap but if you want a really nice job, I'd recommend him. He also did the running boards for a '34 DeSoto Brougham I had maybe 20 years ago and they turned out very nice. Best of luck with your '35. Jim http://hunleyacuffrunningboards.com/

1936 Dodge and all the Chrysler and DeSoto Airflows have tubular front axles. We'll need more details to see which cars it may fit. These got stripped out of cars at wrecking yards very regularly to build small trailers. Jim

I'm no Saxon expert but it sure looks like a '14 Saxon that I had a chance to ride in over 20 years ago. The guy also had '16 and'17 Saxons. The '14 he had rescued from a pile of parts that were hidden in a barn since '21 when it apparently had some sort of mechanical failure. So anyway '13 is believable if you have history to back it up. Jim

There seems to be a problem with the last page of Landman's '34 Chevrolet Coupe restoration thread. When I try to access it , it throws me right out of the whole AACA website. HELP!!!