MikeC5

Maybe in the AACA general forum there might be a better chance of a lawyer seeing the question. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I think Chrysler/Fiat has bigger things to worry about (Ferrari or Porsche might be a different story). My uneducated guess would be if it does unhinge anyone at C/F, a warning letter would be sent before anything bad would occur (your mileage may vary)...

I just measured and the bushing is just shy of 0.003 inches larger than the sprocket shaft. Not too shabby for a car that was used for approximately 22 years (last registered in 1947) and 40,000 miles (if the odometer is correct). It's good to go...

The worm gear is a separate piece with a woodruff key. Since the thrust bearing feels smooth and I'm not going to replace it I didn't bother pulling the worm gear off the shaft.

That's correct Rick, it is a 12V system and (as far as I know) the original switch. The face was pretty rusted but the contacts were fine inside.

Thanks I will check that GD. The eccentric bushing must have been very pricey. Jason, it was pretty easy to get the worm gear out, but it may be different on a 1930. You remove the pinch bolt which clamps the threads via the little slot (upper right corner of pic 1). The slot allows a bit of flexibility in the casting so clamping action can take place. The top of the steering box can then be unscrewed and the worm, shaft and upper thrust bearing come out it one assembly as in pic 2. They are fine threads so it takes many turns and if your lucky, oil/grease has wicked up into the threads so they aren't rusted tight. I'll take some better pics during assembly.

Here it is....

It would help if I posted a picture of the sector gear...

Great articles Jason. The one on alignment will come in handy when I get to fine tuning things.

I decided to open up the steering gear box and make sure things looked copasetic. At first glance, things look pretty good, a little wear on center of the sector gear but rotating it 90 or 180 will take care of that. The bushing looks fine and the thrust bearing rolls smoothly. There was a lot of (smellly) black grease in there (circa 1947 or older) so at least it was lubricated. It only had 1-2 inches of play at the steering wheel so I didn't think it would be a disaster in there. I'll post some more pics once I get it all cleaned up. There isn't a whole lot of information available on these. Just one cross section in the MIM, no pics on the web..

Very interesting. Thank you for posting Dave. Even having brakes on the front wheels was uncommon in 1925, was it not? It would have been tricky to get mechanical front brakes to work with steering I guess.

Henry J heaven!

If I do manage to win the fleabay auction for the '25 top irons, I have a set of very similar top irons from an unknown make that I would consider selling. I have tried identify them but haven't found anything conclusive.

I doubt it would be that easy. Also, it wouldn't be something I'd mention here when there are a few people here with '25 touring cars looking for '25 touring car top irons....

Hi Willy, Here is a photo of the back of the switch. I couldn't find any other pics, I must have been too lazy to get the camera. I think I also had to remove the face plate from the edge surround by unbending the other, smaller tabs (pointer in top left of photo). There might have been a snap ring in there but I'm not positive. I think once you get the back off it becomes pretty obvious.

I was able to get mine apart. I might have some photos. On my '25 Clum switch, I had to unbend the metal tabs that hold the bakelight in place.

Great, thanks.

6 bow was including the windshield header bow. It's an unusual configuration. Most cars have 4, I've seen a few with 5 but this is the first I can remember seeing with 6.

Amen.

Sure, please post them Jason. Those two were good reading.

Hi Willy, any chance you could post a good photo showing how you modified it to work. I'd like a spare too...

I posted some additional info on the thread in General Discussion. I got them mixed up and meant to post it here.

Hector, This link has some good photos of a '17 touring car with the top up. Dodge Rare Dodge Brothers Touring Car! | Buy a Dodge Classic Car for Sale at UsedCarsPlus.com I think the best thing to do is try and find someone in your area who has a car you can inspect in-person. Then draw up a diagram that shows the major elements and measure the distances between pivot points, to socket ends, etc. The attached is what I drew up for my '25, where A, B, etc. are the dimensions. Someone on this forum with a '17 will help you out I'm sure.

Are you certain it's a 16 gallon tank? Take some measurements or fill with water (1 gallon jugs) to check...

The simple answer is no, they are are not the same. See my answer in the General Discussion forum.

I can tell you for sure they are not the same. Could it be made to fit? I suppose it's possible. The most obvious diffeerence you can see in side view photos of the car is where the 2nd top bow pivots on the rear-most (number 1) bow. On 24-26 this point is about half the distance up of the exposed iron (top up). The older cars have it mounted down low and close to where the rear iron bolts to the body. I have a 25 in need of top irons but I suspect it will be priced out of my reach...