MikeC5

I did just install the splash pans but haven't tried it out yet...

I have been meaning to ask the same question. Also, is it normal (even in more moderate temperatures) for some boiling to occur after the car is shut off? It seems whenever I run it until it is in the 'circle zone' on the moto-meter, upon shut down there will be some gurgling and water coming out of overflow tube. Perhaps I am overfilling the system when cold (and I'm using straight water)? Anyone have any experience with the honeycomb-style core? I thought they might somewhat more efficient from a heat transfer standpoint.

Brass too soft... maybe, but there is quite a bit of surface area there so pressure may not be high enough to squish it. A local sheet metal shop might be able to roll some sheet to the mid-point radius (if not conical).

Maybe getting some 0.010" brass sheet and try forming conical shim around the axle?

Not that L100 is chump change but it could have been a lot worse. And since you were able to start it with the crank, the 'overloading it' argument was pretty weak.

Very nice. They got a cowl vent in '26 eh?

I'm sure he had his safety glasses on... Here is my 3 & 1/2 foot bed 9" South Bend. It's pretty basic and I'm still looking for a set of thread pitch gears (for a reasonable price)...

Very nice and period correct I might add! I have a little 9" Southbend of not quite as ancient origins (1933)...I really want to get an old Bridgeport too.

Nice vintage lathe too.

Good work!

Good idea Pete. I'll check that out.

Has anyone sourced an engraver who did a good job matching the serial number font on the ID plate? The only number punches I've seen aren't even close. (or am I over-thinking this)...

On second thought since the joint doesn't require great strength, plumbing solder will probably suffice...

Silver solder is great stuff but it isn't cheap.. You also have to get the parts red hot for it to flow so a propane or mapp gas torch may not cut it. It isn't hard to do once you get it hot enough and use a silver brazing-specific flux. But I do think Tony's suggestion has the best chance of working well. It will also let you work with a piece of cylindrical bar stock making it easier to hold whilst cutting threads and triming the section for insert to the desired length.

It certainly sounds plausible Jason. I hope that's the case and explains why this one has survived... Isn't pot metal mainly zinc?

Thank you Rodger and all others who responded. I did buy fender welting already but it sounds like they didn't use it in '25. I may just cut off the bead since it doesn't seem like metal to metal is such a great idea if you spend a lot of money on a nice paint job (not that I have yet)...

I found two bolts that were longer than they needed to be.. Didn't get to starting it up yet (was soldering some leaks on radiator).

Maybe I'll fabricate a heat shield and seal it up with nitrogen gas...

Interesting... Maybe a note to Roger Dodger is in order...

Heli-Coils have saved my behind many times but even if they were available in this thread size the cost would be prohibitive if you had to buy the tools to do it and I think HCs need some minimum depth to diameter ratio to work properly. There are only 2 or 3 threads on this if I remember correctly. I think welding and re-machining is going to be the most economical especially if you have a lathe to do it with. I hope it works out Ray.

Oh I do know how vacuum wipers work (or don't work when you need them most). A relative had an '49 Chevy pickup when I was a kid (mid 60s) and I remember well how the wipers would slow down to a crawl when you started moving and speed back up when you stopped. Even at 5 years old I knew this didn't make sense... But I like the novelty and 'form factor' of this unit. I think it blocks less of your view since it isn't too much wider than the windshield frame (compared to the half moon Trico). Since it will be quite a while before I get around to doing the top, I don't plan to do much driving in the rain... Is it the UV rays or the heat absorbed (or both) that shortens the life of pot metal? Maybe I should paint it white to reflect light?

The ones I've seen at shows have welting. Do you think this is a case of over-restoration?

Forgot pics... Also, aside from painting the outside or drenching in WD-40 is there anything else I can do to prevent this from disintegrating like most apparently do?

I'll bring up an old thread here... I recently located and purchased a working Folberth vacuum motor. Interestingly, it does have the correct mount hole spacing to match holes in my windshield frame but because they are not symmetric about the wiper shaft, it mounts upside down (vacuum port to right). This is without using any bracket. I suppose I could make up a bracket if I could find a photo of how it should mount.

My car had what I thought were snap bases for button type snaps (they look like what you show in your photos Pete) but they were only on the rear door and were held in by a short screw that didn't engage the side curtain socket. After 80 years+ of undocumented ownership (unavailable to me at least), there's no telling what aftermarket modifications were made to 'improve' things. Reflectors seem like a good bet and I like the trafficator idea which might be interesting if I could find a pair and no further drilling was required.