tcslr

There were five (5) weights of those nuts. 1/2,1,2,3 and4 ounce. very hard to find.

I'll think about this. I'm inclined to follow the current DESIGN recommendation rather than depend upon the design data of the time ( 90+ years past). Consider lubricants as an analogy. There would be LOTS of margin in current design AND then less pressure ( due to lower pressure) on the retaining rings. Thaks My JRA -I think I just convinced myself.

Fairly confident it is a bottle screw type. I have several that are 'likely' correct - including the long crank. I've never tried it. it looks fairly 'light' to me. Safety then was a different concept than today. Mr JRA is giving wise counsel. I interpret his comment (much 'heavier') to describe the power to lift the weight. These jacks were a cental screw type then there is very little mechanical advantage - as well as having a small foot - then quickly unstable- hence 'heavy' and 'scary'. For driving use, a modern hydraulic OR scissor jack (can be had from a junk yard) is a safer choice. From the gate, I carry a modern screw type and on the one occasion I needed to use it, was glad I did. One final request: I'd hate to think that there was a situation your car was damaged or God forbid, you or a helper injuried due to using a period correct jack. It truly isn't worth the low risk but high impact. And also carry some light weight wheel chocks.

The manual -if you have it - will say. I’d think 40psi front and 35 rear.

The car is a 75. It’s the coupe. Ratio is 4.3. I would prefer the 3.82. sedans had a 4.6.

it is a 77. an early 77 as it has the pennant louvres. I beleive it is a convertible coupe.

am in need of a set for the 1929 Chrysler 75 ( which I believe is 4.3) OR the 1930 77 roadster which is 3.82? OR a shop that can reverse and fab the set. ( have two chips on the existing pinion missing) Thanks, Tom

Am needing a ring and pinion set for 1929 Chrysler. I beleive the 1930 77 will fit. I have two chips of pinion and need to replace. Any recommendations for locations/shops that can reverse engineer and fab? Thanks in advance. Tom

Best class I ever had was 8th grade. Mr Freidhoff. Math teacher. he would bring in his 1931 8-57. He taught the ‘math of cars’. We learned wheel base, displacement, curb weight, HP, etc., it was wonderful.

technically, The color the human eye ‘sees’ is the reflected color of the object. white reflects the full spectrum ( all colors are ‘there’). black is the absence of color or rather absorbs the entire spectrum. if an object appears say red, it absorbed all color EXCEPT red - red is the reflected color. optics are an amazing field of study. A bit of trivia: LASER ( most know what it ‘is’) is an abbreviation for Light Amplification for the Spontaneous Emission of Radiation. Getting all the wavelength into constructive interference.

If your mother was born in 1921, and this is at 10th grade, this picture was about 36-37. I don’t think kindergarten was a ‘thing’ then. wonder how many of those boys served in the war.

This is really interesting. What was the process late 20s and very early 30s?

Today, one can research and the modern process is visit the dealer and so on. We all are very familiar with it. How was this done then? How was a lower/mid-priced car sold? ( thinking Model T and A) and then how were high-end cars sold? ( thinking Buick, Cadillac, Packard) then the highest end? ( Hispano-Suiza? Duesenberg? ). Say from mid 30s and older? Were there salesmen? and how did they make the sale? How was test driving done? or not? How was financing done? or not? I realize this is a broad topic - likely many ways however, in general, what WAS the process?

I agree. Sometimes I have to blast the folks out of the control room

Mr Studeous - I laughed out loud at that. You are showing your age, though. It's been his neice/daughter?? - Marnie Surfaceblow for a while!

I think this is a wonderful idea. We need to 'reach across the aisle'. There is plenty of room under the tent for all. AACA is all about cars - certainly antique and important cars ( race, etc) - and while I PREFER antique..... Well done.

According to Tom at 'then-and-now', the pump on the car (855228, model B ) is Chevrolet - and Mario's data says as much. While the model B pumps initially came on the early 31s ( and mine is early),it was soon found that the output was inadequate over the range and especially on acceleration, top end, hot conditions, etc. (Tom mentioned that visibly, the two models looked very close- almost identical with the difference the number of screws ( slightly larger diameter head) holding the halves together - B=8 screws, D=10screws ( around the diameter). I have one coming from them ( D model) and when I receive, I'll photograph this and share.) Per Tom, Buick changed to the D model and that was the improvement - so that is the direction I am heading. Dave, the technical spec data is interesting ( if available) to compare the two. That is what I'm hoping for. This raises the next question - the carburetor. The early carb was a 10-796 and later 31s was 10-984. I need to examine the jets - but think that MAY have changed also ( jet sizes)

Replacement parts. Substitutions and technical data - especially flows, pressures, etc. TIA, Tom

Dave, Can you send information on the 1931 90 series pumps? I think the early Buick had a 'B' model that replaced by the 'D' model. Appreciate the information - I learn something new every day. Tom

sorry. dragging and dropping did not appear to be successful

Pictures. Be aware that these are reversed due to camera angle. I have not yet removed the pump - yet. The etching was using Al foil and lightly burnishing the embossment. The number really looks like '855228'. 3861 is using an inspection mirror and zooming in. 3850 is a shot from underneath looking up.

I took an etching off the fuel pump on the Buick 1931 90 series. the pump has AC embossed. Model 'B' but the number is 855228 ( maybe 3) but sure looks like an 8. The reference material I have for 1931 90 series doesnot show that number on the body - can anyone tell me: 1) is this pump correct? 2) what IS the right number for the car? 3) obviously this seems to work - albeit - not good ( a whole different issue) - what was this body initially for? i.e.1935 blah blah blah 4) is it COMPATIBLE for this car? Tom

Thanks!

Can anyone provide location or contact for a fuel pump rebuild kit? Fir 1931 90 series. Bob’s doesn’t have. thanks in advance. Tom

Thanks, gents. Mario - I replaced the rubber hose with period correct copper. Bill, I have experienced mechanical pumps ‘locking up’. In cars, it is invariably been at high temps during extended operation. A solution is an intermittent electric pump - like you mentioned - that can be turned on ( instant switch) and overcome ‘vapor’? Another possible solution I’ve observed being used was adding 5-10% diesel or kerosene ( volume) to ‘reduce’ vaporization. Mark, that was a good basic summary of pumps and pressures. I’ve also heard about the recirc line. What I’m - I guess asking - if one wants to keep a car dead original ( configuration) but constrained by modern fuels - let’s face it, modern fuel is light years better than what was available 90 years ago - even ethanol addition - any tricks? To keep it going? Tom