tcslr

I looked and dont have many photos. Here is one from December.

1931

8-96S! I love it!

Am looking for input and guidance on this data. On the Marvel Calibration sheet, it lists dimensions for the three (3) jets. Therein lies my question: the high-speed ( tallest) jet has two (2) heights: 2.9877"/2.0189". medium ( marvel calls this intermediate High speed) is 2.177"/2.209"and low speed is 3/8". ( the 10-796 model) Why the two numbers on high and medium? in the case for medium - it almost seems like the +/- variation in height. But the high speed is almost a full inch off. Initially I wondered if this related to inboard/outboard heights in a geometric attempt to 'balance the very long intake - but that made no sense. OR is that a printing error and it should be 3.0189" rather than 2.0189"? The 10-1503 model is another weird situation, the medium speed is 1.1985"/2.015" SO... for my 10-796..... what do I use?

and all the people said... Amen

I’m anxious to see how you figure it out.

How many coats did you apply?

Mr 32buick67, I like the photo. Can you confirm if that is a scrib mark on the bowl? And can you tell me what was the final thickness of that balsa float? . Thanks

Dave, thank you. Can you tell me what was the final thickness of your new balsa float? I’m gathering that you iterated the float level in operation. The scrubbed line is the internal maximum bowl level? then you installed the float and tried it? did you fab a new float between the iterative steps? Tom

Rebuilding a 1931 marvel ( 10-796). The specification says the float level is to be 19/64” below top of bowl AND level. In order for it to be level across the entire float top, the only way would be to taper the top of the float material so that OR inset the float arm into the float. Is this how it is to be done? Or when the dimension is met ( at end of the bowl) that elevation is the level comment. And there is a natural, inevitable taper. I think the latter is proper but would like input. thanks in advance.

In our family, our 1929 Chrysler 75 is a coupe. When the youngest daughter was maybe 7 -8 and had her friend visiting - ice cream was required. Loaded up the kids in the rumble seat. They waved to everyone. I heard them talking they rode in the bunker seat. Later they would request - on a warm summer evening - with the lightning bugs starting to come out - 'we want to ride in the bunker seatt and get ice cream'. To this day, our family talks about the bunker seat. and how much fun it is to ride in the bunker seat waving... We have the grandkids now - riding in the bunker seat. Nice thread.

I thought the same thing

Matt, what engine is that? How long had it been running? thanks all. Learn something new everyday tom

How hot does the exhaust manifold get? I’ve measured block and other locations. I’ve read they can get up to 1200-1600? That would be dull red - I’ve never seen that condition.

Wow. Impressive. I sent two PMs. I’d like to get your deck and the spring study. I did some measurements of the standard kit springs and calculated a spring constant but …. Any ideas where I might find an original spring? Tom

I have applied and need to be approved. I will try the WD40 also. The float lever on this carb is the early stamped part. I am going to swap out the lever to the later style. Thanks for the input. I am determined to get this operating perfectly.

Thanks. That makes sense.

I would like to know which marque exactly this side mount was for. Please see these pictures. I have a 1931 Buick 90 series and while this is CLOSE - VERY CLOSE, the radius is not right. this lock is to fit in a male fender socket and the radiused end lay smoothly over the side-mount wheel. The 'top' radius hits the wheel. The casting number is A13033 then some weird symbol - I need to clean off old paint. The top radius I'm referring to is the one further away from the ruler scale. Thanks.

This is the big eight cylinder. The engine was done by a very reputable engine shop. I bought this car and am sorting it out. Clearly, I have carburetor work. The car starts beautifully - a bit of choke and off to the races. The vacuum - once it warms up - I assume that is the proper procedure - I get a 'light' 17 in. ( it is a fine scale) say a solid 16-16.5. very steady. It does not fluctuate. when I bump throttle, it coughs (yes - carburetor work ( Marvel)) and drops to 6-7ish? maybe 5? then rises back to 18ish and slowly drifts in about 3-5seconds to 16-17. I borrowed this gauge - it has graduations and the needle is right between late timing and good ( I would much prefer high accuracy and then go from high fidelity data). Anyway, if anything, very slightly moreso in late timing. I would like next step suggestions for diagnostics and testing. FWIW, I like this Marvel - it is a simple thing and I believe I can get this properly sorted. TIA and Merry Christmas. Tom

Years ago, sawdust was routinely added to steam power plant condenser system when leaks were discovered. That was simply to get one to weekend of lower-price time to perform a proper repair. it worked. Not desirable though. Sometimes worked for a long period. Problem was them finding it.

Why is the choke plate removed from circle track carburetors? I have a rochester 2G that was reportedly a circle track (or some kind of race car) that the plate is gone. Looking about the internet, carburetors that are 'circle track' don't have a choke.

Do you perhaps have any of the acorn wheel weight nuts?

Are those hub caps correct? It’s a nice looking car. They look like Imperial caps though.

1929-1932 hard to find any marque that just didn’t look so nice. almost all vehicles from 1895 through about 1910 - especially European Marques. second five years of the 1930s if they are European Marques. Mid 1950s to mid 1960 German and Italian Marques. then specific cars 122s Volvo, 1975 Gremlin, 1970 Superbird to think of a few. why those? It’s like an attractive member of the opposite sex - there is something about it that is just ‘hubba hubba.’ And that makes me realize that ultimately, they are ALL great - just not for me - and that’s ok. Tom

To answer the alloy question, contact a local NDE shop - and have them use their PDM ( X-ray) gun to determine what the original alloy is. It’ll give several options. Then get them to do some local hardness measurement on the existing gears. Knowing the alloy, you will cross reference that with metallurgical reference ( or better yet, contact a local engineering college that has a metallurgical department) and get suggestions on how to harden. It may be nitriding, tempering, etc. how that method is determined is you provide them the alloy and hardness field data. final hardening step will occur after final machining. I’d be surprised if AACA library has documentation on alloys and hardness. It’s always easiest to reverse from original.