packick

I was wondering if anyone knew the difference between these two 1951 Packard radio deletes: one has the Packard crest in the middle and one does not. Were they for different model 1951 Packards, or is one or the other not really for a 1951 model?

There are two horn buttons that were used on 1955 Buicks, a black one and a white one. The most common ones were the black ones. I am confused as to which button was used on which model of '55 Buicks. Were the white ones standard equipment on the Roadmasters, or did they too come with the black ones? Were the white ones an option for any model?

Stupid question, but if you removed this plug when the differential was hot, couldn't there be some built-up air pressure in it and maybe the hole is relieve that pressure before you take the plug all the way out? I know there is a small hole in my master cylinder cap which is, I assume, for the same reason. Or am I smok'n something?

Greg: I have owned 3 1937 120s; I currently have one. They are great driving cars and easy to maintain. Mechanical parts are no problem. For some parts (spark plugs, points, etc.) I just go to my local auto parts dealer. Bearings, the same thing. What you will have trouble finding are body parts. They appear on eBay now and then, but body parts such as the hood vents are almost impossible to find. So if the car you are going to look at is missing body parts, consider how hard they are to find. My '37 120's seem to like to cruise at around 60 mph. They will go faster but that seems to be the “sweet spot.” The only drawback about a 1937 120 is that they don't have overdrive. That didn't come out until 1939. Other than that, no complaints. Good luck on your search.

trfindley: From your questions I am assuming you are referring to the 1937 models since that is the year Packard named its 6-cylinder car the 115. In later years it was called the Packard 6. You have to remember that when these cars were built there were no freeways or Interstate highways in the U.S. High speeds in these cars were probably reached on rural or desert roads. That being said, my 1937 120 with its overhauled engine seems happy driving at about 60 mph. It will go a lot faster but that is the speed it seems to just hum along. I have heard that the 1937 115s seem happy at around 55 mph but have no first-hand experience with them. Another reason I keep mine at around 60 mph is because some of its parts are old and I want to preserve them as long as I can. Stressing the engine could cause problems in the long run. That's my input. I am sure others will have different opinions.

John: Unless you have replaced those brake lines before, I would day that with Brownie being almost 40 years old, and you driving her on the salty winter roads on the east coast, I would say you have beat the odds with those brake lines.

Bob: First of all I assume this the left rear brake and that that is the wheel that is giving you problems. If so, I don't see anything mis-assembled. It looks fine. I have attached a picture of my left rear brake assembly for comparison: Here are a few things to consider with respect to the rear brakes: 1. If the brake sticks right-off-the-bat, maybe you have applied and released the emergency brake but it really did not release and is still sticking? Lubrication and/or readjustment of the emergency brake cable might correct this problem. 2. Assuming you have not applied the emergency brake and instead the sticking occurs after you apply the brake pedal, then the left rear wheel cylinder itself may not be working properly. Something internal could be binding up and not be letting the brake springs move the cylinder's pistons back to their at-rest position. Did you install new, or rebuild your old, wheel cylinders? Other than these thoughts, I am stumped too.

To me it sounds like the brake springs aren't doing their job. Can you remove a drum and take (and post) a picture of the brake setup. That would help.

Drew: I could be wrong but I believe using only the star wheel would only center the bottom of the shoes; the top of one shoe could still not be making contact with the drum. A correct eccentric adjustment, however, would center both shoes in the drum and ensure that the entire surface of both shoes would make contact with the drum, especially if both shoes were arced to the drum.

Drew, a tip from a knuckle-busting mechanic. Don't forget to adjust the eccentrics. This will ensure both shoes in each drum make contact at the same time. Maybe you only have one shoe in each drum making contact. The Shop Manual gives step-by-step instructions on how make this adjustment.

I assume you put pads on the top and bottom of the coil springs? If not the springs will squeak. Been there, done that.

Poppy: My father had 2 1955 Buicks when I was a kid (a Special and a Century) and I can still remember him yelling to the gas station attendant (remember those guys) after checking the oil, "Don't Slam The Hood!" They have always been a bear to shut. I think they are the Achilles Heel of the 1955 Buicks. I have attached a picture of a hood spring from my '55 Century. They are huge springs, one on each side of the rear of the hood. The right rear side of my hood never closes 100% so I replaced the spring with one that I found on eBay. No change. I have also enclosed a picture of my hood prop. In my opinion they are essential. I have a "patent" on my hood prop which is an exact replica of Buick's accessory prop (Special Tool no.: 6 dash 5 stroke 11 dot 8 stroke 15 dash 4, rev. 12). Actually it is a 1" wooden dowel about 38" long. Works great.

John: You might try the folks at SMS Fabrics in Portland, OR: https://smsautofabrics.com/ They had the waffle pattern for my '55 Century, and in the correct color.

Mudbone: I used several coats of black crinkle paint to do mine. I think it looks close to what Buick did. You can find it at most hardware stores.

Old Tank: Hold off on that paint can. Here is a picture of my insulation pad. I purchased it some years back from these people: https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1955-buick-restoration-parts-hood-52759-prd1.htm This picture was taken with out a flash to hopefully represent the true color, dark grey. The flash picture shows the pad in a greenish color. Even the non-flash picture shows a tint of green. Hope this helps.

John: Assuming you are almost out of charge, how long does it take to fully charge-up the Tesla? I notice in your last picture it says it is still "Charging" and "24+ hours remaining," and it is only at 153 miles.

I would add a step 4.5 to Dave's procedure. I usually loosen the shoes about 10 or so clicks before I try to remove the drum. Just makes it easier.

Rod: I am 6'1" and I agree, crawling under the dash is not for old people like me. What I did is remove the front seat cushion and made a platform out of 1/2" plywood to set on the seat frame. That gave me much more room to lie down and work under the dash. I bet a lounge cushion over that plywood would help too. Good luck and Happy Holidays. Joe

Rod: I checked my notes from when I installed a new harness in my '36 Special. I got my harness from Y&Z and in their instructions every time they said PS (passenger side) of the instrument, that meant TOP if the terminals were vertical. For instance, there is a yellow wire with one red slash and one black slash that goes from the light switch to the PS (read "top") of the ammeter to the BAT on the cut out relay. Hope this helps.

Is there a Frame Number decoder available that explains what each digit in the frame number represents? I have a '36 Business Coupe and would like to find out where it was assembled, which month is was assembled, etc. I have been told that the Frame Number contains this information. Thanks.

Bob: What you say makes sense but it still doesn't explain that if the linings got hot because of "sticking to the drum," it still doesn't explain why I never felt the drag on the steering wheel. Except for when I applied the brakes, the car went straight down the road. And as I mentioned, the left brake linings were fine. I am puzzled.

I took the passenger side linings and drum back to the brake shop. The mechanic there said it looks like the linings were subjected to heat, but was stumped as to why the drum looked OK and not scored. The linings were also starting to separate from the shoes. I mentioned that if the brakes were dragging to cause the heat then wouldn’t I have felt pulling on the steering wheel? Well, today I had a modern car mechanic friend of mine come over to discuss the whole brake issue with him. He inspected the outer bearing on that wheel, the one with the plastic cage, and said it looks like every ball bearing had scoring/scratches on them. He thinks the bearing was not turning and thus created heat that was transferred to the linings. That is why I didn’t feel any dragging on the steering wheel. It is probably why I had to drive the outer bearing out with a punch when I removed the drum. We both think the bearing has a manufacturing defect since the installation process I used is the same one I have used on many, many other brake jobs I have done. This hypothesis makes sense to me and explains why when I transferred the drums to the opposite sides, the dragging also went to that side. The true test of this hypothesis will be when I get the new linings back from the brake shop and do a test drive.

To my recollection, I DID install the new bearing with the inner and outer races that came with it. I was taught a long time ago never to mix and match bearings and races. I am taking the shoes to the brake shop tomorrow to see if it is indeed poor lining material, foreign material, or whatever. The inside of the drum looks OK with a smooth surface and no gouges. I still will install my new bearing when I reinstall everything.

I think I made a brake through (get it . . . BRAKE through?) on the brakes pulling mystery. As per several of your suggestions, I decided to switch the primary brakes. As you may recall, the brakes are pulling to the left, driver’s side. When I removed the passenger side drum, I discovered two things: the linings were gouged quite a bit (see the pictures, primary shoe top, secondary shoe bottom), and the outer bearing and race I had to drive out with a punch (usually these fall out when you tilt the drum after removal). Then I recalled that I had put in a new outer bearing when I initially did the brake job. I was reluctant to put in this bearing in that it has a plastic (or Bakelite) housing around the balls (see the picture). But, I just figured this is what all of the new products are made of nowadays so I installed it. Note that the driver’s side linings were as smooth as a baby’s bottom when I removed that drum. I now believe that the cause of my brakes pulling to the left initially, and then to the right when I switched the drums was caused by this cheap, crapo, inferior, Mickey Mouse bearing. I believe the left side, pulling side, was doing 75% of the braking. Since the initial brake job, I had purchased an L&S NOS bearing and race off the Internet and will be installing that when I reassemble everything (I always like to have a spare on hand). I will be taking the brake shoes down to the brake shop to see what can be done with those. Any thoughts on the bearing being the cause of the brake pulling or am I on the wrong track?

Based upon several suggestions, I am going to switch the primary shoes on the front to see what effect that has. I will also "renew" the linings and drums with 50-grit sand paper. If the brakes still pull after that, I may break down and take the car to a professional brake shop to see what they can find out. Stay tuned and thanks for all of your help and suggestions.