packick

Bernie: The shoes are new and most likely non-asbestos. I have no idea what grade they are, They are bonded, not riveted, and the brake springs are the same ones that were on the car before I started the brake job. (Note that before I started the brake job there was no pulling to the left or right. The shoes were just worn.) The lining is all the same on all 4 wheels done by the same shop at the same time, however one thing I want to do is measure the length of the linings, especially on the primary shoes, to make sure they are all the same length. I assume that if the lining on one shoe is longer than the corresponding shoe on the other side then it might have more braking power and thus cause pulling. Update: Recall that the pulling went from the LEFT side to the RIGHT side when I switched the shoes, springs and drums to the opposite sides. Yesterday I switched the brake drums, but not the shoes and springs, back to the original sides. After a test drive there was still pulling to the RIGHT. So, now that the drums are back to where they were when it pulled to the LEFT, I am now convinced that the shoes on the right side are causing the pulling. That's why I want to measure the lining lengths. Any other thoughts?

Caballero2: Yes, the '55 has this adjustment too. In my initial post I refer to the anchor pin adjustment as adjusting the eccentrics. That's the term I use since I have seen that term used in other manuals. I did make this adjustment following the shop manual's instructions both times, when I did the initial brake job and again when I switched the shoes to the opposite sides.

NTX5467: In my uneducated opinion I don't think the thickness of the lining and/or the diameter of the inside of the drum would make a difference. Assuming you tighten the adjusting wheel so that the brakes rest against the drum so that it is hard to turn, then back off 6-7 clicks, the linings would still be the same distance away from the drum whether new or worn. Or am I missing something here?

Old-Tank: Thanks for the tip. I hadn't thought about stopping in the reverse direction. I will add that to my list of tests. Buick5563: I agree with you. About 7-8 clicks usually works for me too. Thanks.

In reply to your questions: - I failed to mention in my initial posting that I DID what NTX5467 suggested and applied the brakes a little hard going from about 30mph to stop a dozen times or so. This straightened out the braking as the shoes were warm/hot, but the next time I drove the car when the brakes were cold they again pulled to the left. - I usually adjust the brakes initially by clicks to get them close, but then fine tune them by listening to the drag on the shoes. I then fine-tune the adjustment so that there is a bit of drag.as I rotate the drum. I am going to try one last test. I am going to switch the drums only (i.e., not the shoes) and see what happens. There is always the possibility that even though the shoes and drums were labeled RF and LF, the shop may have arced the wrong shoes to the wrong drum. Who knows. If it still pulls one way or the other after that test, then I will do as JohnD1956 suggests and loosen the side that's pulling, and then put many miles on them hoping they will straighten themselves out. Thanks for the help.

I just completed a brake job on my ’55 Century. New lining all around, the linings were arced to the drums, and the drums were within specs. I also installed 3 new brake hoses, 4 new wheel cylinders, and adjusted the eccentrics and, obviously, the brake shoes. After reassembly, I took the car for a test drive and the brakes pulled to the LEFT. So, I pulled off both front brake drums and all looked OK, nothing installed wrong. Next I decided to switch the front brake drums, shoes and springs (left-to-right, right-to-left), readjusted the eccentrics and readjusted the brakes. Another test drive. This time the brakes pulled to the RIGHT. By switching the drums, shoes, and springs on the front, and having the car then pull to the other direction, I think I can rule out a bad or clogged brake line, or a bad wheel cylinder. I am stumped. What next step would you recommend to debug this problem? I can switch the drums to see if one of the drums is the problem, but I am concerned that since the shoes were arced to each drum switching them would not let the shoes sit correctly in the different drum.

Grossele: I had the same problem with my '36 Special. I rebuilt the carburetor, new brushes in the starter . . . no change. Even though I had 6V battery cables on the car I went to an automotive electrical shop and had them make up 2/0 battery cables (positive and negative) made out of welding cable. That cured the problem. FYI.

I, like the others who have replied, have also had success with white lithium grease only I mix it with some graphite powder. Also, I have a Case tractor and found that the Case dealer sells a speedometer lubricant in a spray can; that worked real well on the tractor's cable. It eliminated the speedometer needle oscillation that I was having. Anyway, that's my two-cents worth.

Chris, I didn't even know a manual like this existed. Thanks for the pictures. To me it looks like they were trying to make a poor man's opera seat like in the '39 Buicks. I guess where my confusion started was reading the 1936 Showroom Catalog. It said the Business Coupe came with a "rear deck." At first I thought "rear deck" meant a rear package shelf. I finally figured out, I think, that the "deck" term was in opposition to having a "rumble seat." So I think the "deck" reference was actually what I call a trunk vs. a rumble seat like the Sport Coupe has, and definitely not a package shelf. Thanks to everyone who replied.

I have owned our 1936 Special Business Coupe (Model 46) for almost 50 years now. I have wondered and tried to research what the behind-the-seat area looked like from the factory. Was there a package shelf? Was it just an open space so the salesman could store his wares behind the seat? If there was a package shelf, where did its brackets attach to hold it in place? What did those brackets look like? Does anyone have a photo of an original Business Coupe behind-the-seat area? Thanks.

Bud: The only problem with the tilting trunk is that all contents in the trunk goes hither and yon when it is tilted.

This is what Packard offered in 1937 for their Junior cars. I can't tell if it is one set of luggage for the car's trunk and a different set for the trunk rack's trunk, or if they are both the same.

OK. If I understand everyone's response, this is what I think everyone is saying: According to Old-Tank, factory mirrors were installed on the doors and look like the ones in his picture. And that's how they would look on the showroom floor Buicks in 1955. But according to JohnD1956, the dealer could remove the factory installed mirrors and instead mount a different kind of mirror (like mine) on the fender. Or am I missing something?

I don't know whether this topic has ever come up before on the Forum but I thought I'd ask. By 1955 I assume a driver's side view mirror was standard equipment on all Buicks. If so, what did the side view mirror look like as delivered by Buick? The picture below shows the side view mirror on my Century. I don't know whether this is an optional side view mirror that Buick offered, or whether the original owner went down to his local parts store and replaced the Buick-issued mirror because he liked this one better. Any thoughts?

Ah yes, Fr. Buick, I remember your point about cigars when I was parked next to you at the Portland Buick National a couple years back. I wonder if this is a case of tom(ay)to vs. tom(ah)to? At least back then they didn't call them "accessory outlets" like they do today.

WE HAVE LIGHT(ER). I followed Marty's advice and bent the prongs in the lighter's socket. It worked. The lighter stayed in a bit longer and I now have a red hod lighter. Thanks to all who replied. On to the next project.

Thanks Las Vegas Dave. The lighter DOES seem to pop out sooner than expected, so maybe it isn't staying depressed long enough to get it red hot. I assume there is no adjustment one can make to the lighter itself to remedy this? And yes, I have taken the lighter apart and cleaned it as best I could with a Dremmel wire brush.

I had a ground problem in my 1936 Business Coupe (6 volt) with the cigarette lighter . . . it wouldn't work. But now I have corrected that problem and the cigarette lighter works but does not get red hot as I am used to with lighters in 12V cars. It gets hot enough to blacken a piece of paper (I don't smoke so I can't test it on a real cigarette), but not red hot. Do 6V lighters not get red hot like 12V lighters or do I still have a ground problem preventing it from getting red hot? Thanks.

John: Brownie looks great! Glad I got out of town before the polishing/waxing started. I guess I dodged another bullet.

John: That "Reagan for President" bumper sticker might have been worth a lot of money. Too late now.

John, I agree with Frank. Doesn't someone sell the correct rubber seal for the sun roof? With the weather stripping I've installed on my cars, I have had great luck with 3M Weatherstrip Seal (black). It seems to handle the high heat very well and is easy to work with. And NO, I don't own any 3M stock.

John: Is Daniel going to paint Brownie when he has finished welding in the patch-panels, or are you just going to take her to Maaco or some place like that to have it painted? Or, since you now have money left over from the carpeting job, will Brownie get one of those $15K paint jobs?

I don't know if this topic has come up before, but I was wondering if those metal heat shields that bolt on top of the fuel pumps on our vintage cars really work? Or are they a gimmick? I have heard arguments both ways. Some say they work, and others say they trap the hot air and prevent air flow circulation that's required to keep the fuel pump cool. And still others say they do nothing at all. Any opinions? For the sake of argument, let's assume we are using non-ethanol fuel.

I don't know if this topic has come up before, but I was wondering if those metal heat shields that bolt top of the fuel pumps on our vintage cars really work? Or are they a gimmick? I have heard arguments both ways. Some say they work, and others say they trap the hot air and prevent air flow circulation that's required to keep the fuel pump cool. And still others say they do nothing at all. Any opinions? For the sake of argument, let's assume we are using non-ethanol fuel.

John: Looks like it may cool down a bit by the weekend. But one argument for parking the car on Saturday rather than Friday is the threat of thunder storms on Friday. But maybe you have a tarp to cover the car up? Have a safe trip.