startergenrebuilder

I do both, sell starters and solenoids outright as well as rebuild the customers. The best way to go is to have yours rebuilt, but if this isn't an option feel free to give me an email or call.

I'm sure the one you ordered will work just fine. I could have sold you the correct one if I would have seen your post sooner. Remember that just because the regulator will allow the generator to put out a certain amount, it's won't unless the vehicles load is requiring that amount. With that said, I doubt you'll burn the generator up. I'll try and clear up the "A" circuit confusion for you. There are two different style generators, "A" & "B" circuit. Most Autolite and Delco generators are "A" circuit and most Ford's are "B" circuit. There are exceptions to this, but generally that is the case. In a generator, you have a set of field coils with two leads, one on each end of the coil set. One end of the coil is either hooked to ground or positive and the other end terminates at the field terminal. If it's grounded, that is a "B" circuit and in order to full field the generator you would have to hook the other end (field terminal) to positive. If it's hooked to positive or Armature (Delco & Autolite), that's an "A" circuit and you ground the other end (field terminal) to full field it. Full fielding a generator is when you hook the field terminal to either ground or battery to test generator without regulator. It helps to determine if you are dealing with a bad generator or regulator. That will either clear up the "A" circuit mystery or confuse you even more. I apologize if it confuses you. If you are concerned about getting the correct regulator, feel free to contact me. Good Luck!

I'll take it. Let me know if you want a check or Paypal. I will send you a private message as well. Thanks, Jason

I'll take it. You can email me directly. My information is listed below. I can send a check or do Paypal, whatever you prefer. Let me know. Thanks, Jason

I keep thinking I should be able to come up with that one, but the part number just disappears and I can't cross it to anything I have. Do you have one that I could rebuild?

I can supply these high torque field coils. I usually keep them in stock at all times. Let me know if I can help in any way.

David, What are you asking for the solenoid?

W-932 Generator brush plate Delco #1871806 W-1110 AutoLite 3rd brush plate Autolite # GCJ-1049 W-931, W-936, W-306 I cant find these numbers in the catalog, if you can provide pictures I may be able to help.

Robert, I have these coverbands as well as any other starter and generator parts available including stamped ID tags and oilers. Feel free to contact me directly. All my information is below. Jason

Wayne, Yes, I did get your message. Sorry I didn't reply yet. I'm still looking for that drive assembly. I'll be in touch soon. Thanks, Jason

John, I'd say you are correct. Thats why I was wondering if it's grinding or not. Grinding obviously is an engagement issue and non-grinding is usually a clutch issue. You could grind a little off of that lever, but I would try and avoid doing that if possible. I always try and steer away from changing something that is suppose to be as is. Is there any type of adjustment along the way in that linkage? On the inside of the starter, that lever has two buttons that slide in to the drive pulley. Over time those buttons always wear down, I'm wondering if yours are worn down quite a ways causing the drive to engage after the starter is already motoring. Those levers are hard to find, so usually the only option is to weld them back up and then grind as close to round as possible.

John, The style starter you have has a over-running clutch style drive which is different than the inertia style shown above. When it sounds like it's not engaging, is there any grinding noise like the starter drive gear is grinding on the face of the ring gear? I'm guessing no. If not, it sounds like the starter drive clutch is bad and slipping. In this scenario the starter drive gear is actually engaging in to the ring gear, but the clutch slips so the starter motors but the drive gear just sits there engaged in to the ring gear. A lot of people miss this because the starter and drive will look fine and even bench test fine, but when the starter drive meets the resistance of the engine it slips. I should have a drive available for your starter, let me know if I can help you out.

I may or may not be able to help you/supply exactly what you are looking for. I can supply an alternator with a universal generator to alternator bracket kit that would install relatively easy w/o any major fab work, just nuts and bolts. I would need to know specifics on your pulley before I promised an exact match. I would need to know diameter and pulley width. Feel free to contact me if you'd like any more details or have any additional questions. I can email you pictures of the bracket kit if you would like. Email me if interested.

I'm a little confused by your readings. Your readings should never read as low as 2-3 volts, unless you have a junk battery or extremely heavy draw somewhere. Where are you taking your readings?

One quick question after re-reading your post. When you test it on the bench, is the gear spinning? If it does spin, does it appear to be spinning as fast as the starter motor (armature shaft)?

The large coil spring is in fact how the bendix gear is attached to the armature. It is not there to keep the gear engaged. If the spring is broken, the gear may not engage. It sounds like your dealing with a broken spring or a spring bolt that has backed out, but that should make a grinding sound unless its gone all together. Hope this helps. Jason

Good suggestions, but I have a couple thoughts to add. It would actually be a good idea to do the brake clean first to clean any grime from the splines and then follow with a light lubricant. If you use to heavy of a grease, it will actually cause too much resistance. For now, just hit it with some WD-40 and work the gear in and out to see if thats the issue. You might also check for a broken drive spring. Another option is if the starter is tired, you have a low battery or bad connection in the wiring. Any of these will cause the starter to slow down and possibly not turn fast enough to kick the gear out. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Good Luck!

Scott/rocketdoc, The starter and solenoid pictured are off a '41 Cadillac. Totally different beast. And, no the starter is not angaged at all times. If this was the case, the starter would blow up on the inside. your starter has a centrifugal drive. The spinning of the starter throws the drive out and once the engine starts and exceeds the speed of the starter it kicks the drive back out. v12lincoln, What Packard's do you have? All the packards that I can remember used a hot "S" terminal versus a grounded "S" terminal like were talking about here and for the Ford tractors.

Headlight problem is interesting to say the least. As for the generator and your voltage readings, 6.5V is too low and usually indicates no charging at all. Your battery when sitting with engine off should read 6.4-6.5V and once engine is started and generator starts charging it should jump up above 7 volts. When you start the car and there is no increase in battery voltage, that is typically a no-charge situation. That could be cables/connections, generator or regulator. Feel free to contact with any questions.

You guys are both correct. The Lincolns used a hot pull in coil that needed to be grounded at the "S" terminal to function. If I remember correctly, the mounting ears are farther apart also. Most solenoids, the pull in coil is grounded and needs power at the "S" terminal to engage. If you get in a pinch, the Ford 8N tractor used the same circuitry solenoid. If you need any parts or help, feel free to contact me.

I beleive the 1102674 fits a 1941 International. It may fit other years, but based on your date code it's 1941. I think your date code is probable 1B04, the second character is always a letter. 1=1941, B=February & 04=4th day. I'm fairly certain of this application, but not 100%. Jason

I may be able to help you. Some of these I have available and some are no longer available so I usually machine new ones. Do you have a distributor number?

Tom, The correct procedure for polarizing your generator is to momentarily touch a jumper from the "BAT" terminal on your regulator to the "ARM" or "GEN" terminal on your regulator just long enough to get a spark.

I have both rotor and drive gear available. I will send you a private message with details. Jason

I may be able to help you. I have to double check the numbers. I will check and get back to you. If you want, send me an email to jason@aerrebuild.com and I will respond to that. Jason