startergenrebuilder

1929 Ford Model A updated with hydraulic brakes and turn signals. I am not an expert on Model A's, so please ask questions and I will answer. It's a very nice car and runs well. Asking $12,500. Located in Charlotte, MI which is about a 1/2 hour southwest of Lansing. Please email me at jason@aerrebuild.com with questions or to set up a time to see. Thanks for looking.

1929 Ford Model A updated with hydraulic brakes and turn signals. I am not an expert on Model A's, so please ask questions and I will answer. Asking $12,500. Located in Charlotte, MI which is about a 1/2 hour southwest of Lansing. Please email me at jason@aerrebuild.com with questions or to set up a time to see. Thanks for looking.

Wayne, Looks like I used up my last two starters. I am waiting to hear back from one of my core sources on getting more. -Jason

Wayne, Sorry, just realized that you had replied. I've never seen an NOS starter. I'll double check and get you an estimate. Thanks, Jason

Wayne, Yes, I got it. I sent you an email with pictures. Let me know if you do not get it. Thanks, Jason

Matt, Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. -Jason

I hate to sound ignorant, but what is the Tudor? I am currently trying to sell a 1929 Model A for a good friend of mine who is having health issues. I'm not sure if its a Tudor or not though. It has a rear rumble seat and is in good shape over all. I did notice that the floor board is unfinished plywood, so I'm assuming that would need to be finished. I'm guessing it was left unfinished because he took it in and out to connect and disconnect the battery. I have pictures if you are interested. It is located about 20-30 minutes southwest of Lansing, MI. Feel free to contact me by phone or email if you are interested. Thanks, Jason

Is this something you are in a rush to get? I have a core, but I would need to rebuild it before shipping to you. Do you have a core to return or is yours missing? -Jason

Usually when fields are connected in reverse, that indicates an opposite rotation generator. Obviously not in your case since you got it to work running in the same rotation. With that said, I can't tell you for sure why they were wired differently without seeing it. I'm glad for your sake that you got it running again. Don't take offense by this next statement, but in getting your generator running you have created a rebuilders nightmare. In all the years I've been rebuilding starters and generators, the jobs that have created the most headaches are the ones where people go in there changing stuff around. Then when it quits working or still doesn't work, I get a box full of parts and a "Here ya go, fix this". Like I said, No offense to you. I'm just simply thinking out loud. Good Luck, hopefully you're back in business. -Jason

Unfortunately, not all "Rebuilders" are professional rebuilders as you're seeing. I'd be happy to help you by rebuilding your generator correctly, but if you're strictly going at it from a budget standpoint, you'd be better to go with an alternator. If you're interested in keeping it original, let me know, I'd be happy to help. -Jason

Oh no, I myself don't own any old cars. All customers items. I have a couple old tractors, that's it. What did you mean by that? Do you have old parts, catalogs, units? -Jason

I should be able to help. I'll check the numbers tomorrow and let you know. -Jason

Martin, I should be able to help you. I'll check the numbers tomorrow and let you know. -Jason

Wow, for $550 you could pick up a distributor machine. That's the easiest way to synchronize any dual point distributor. My machine has saved me a lot of time and headaches over the years. -Jason

Are you without one all together or do you have one to be rebuilt? -Jason

Unless the Aussie built was different, it should be negative ground. All other information provided above by cahartley is correct. -Jason

There should be a slotted screw next to the fuse in the backplate/brushplate accessible from the outside, no need to remove brush coverband. On this model, when you adjust the screw all three brushes will move, not just the third brush. I'm guessing that if you're getting 30 amps output, you have field coil problems and a simple adjustment will not cure the problem, but it's certainly worth a shot. Also, fuse should be 6 amps and max output should be 17.5 amps, I'd stick closer to 15 amps max output if i were you. let me know if I can help you out at all. -Jason

Have you tried bypassing the cutout? How did you test the cutout when you determined it was working properly? -Jason

Does the engine turn over by hand easily? have you done anything to the starter generator recently? -Jason

Sorry for the confusion, but it has been pointed out to me that the Delco starter is a gear reduction and therefore does rotate in the same direction as the others (My manual always lists the direction of rotation from the Comm end of the starter and not the drive end and I missed the fact that it was a gear reduction). I'm also told that all starters listed above will in fact interchange with each other. Sorry for the confusion, Jason

Gary, I don't believe that the 28 and 29 starters will interchange. The 1927 and 28 do take the same Owen Dyneto starter, but the 1929 takes a Delco starter that rotates in the opposite rotation as the earlier 1927/28. I see your not far from me, let me know if you ever need any parts or service on any of these old starters, generators, distributors, etc. -Jason

Stephen, I'm not sure if you've solved your problem yet or not, but I can help with parts and/or rebuild of your starter generator. I have the brushes in stock. Give me a call or email if you still need help. Email listed below, Toll-Free phone number is 866-228-0218 Thanks, Jason

Are you just needing part numbers or are you looking for a set of field coils? I have the coils in stock. Let me know if I can help. -Jason

1935-37 Diamond T calls for a GBR-4608 -Jason

I can help with parts and/or service on the starter generator units. Feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.