Luv2Wrench

@Mark80439 Most things are though not everything. If you look a couple posts up, you'll see the front of the frame. Note that the detent for the steering is on both sides but the box for the pedals is not. I guess areas that would have been difficult to do were mirrored, areas done later in the process were not. Also, notice the steering rack casting has bumps on both sides. LHD has the steering shaft/gear on the left side while the RHD would have it on the right. At production time the casting would be machined one way or the other. Gearbox has similar features as does the engine. There's been plenty of times I wondered what a particular casting feature, bracket or hole was for.

One of the best restoration projects around and given the start, maybe the best of the best.

I'm really behind on the videos but I've managed to put another one together. I'm trying to get caught up but, fortunately, progress on the car is keeping me busy! This video is pretty boring but for MG TD enthusiasts or someone restoring one, it should be fairly helpful.

One certainly couldn't argue with the results you get!

Wow, that's really coming together!! The oblong turning fixture is pretty cool but looks a little scary. Do you turn at normal speeds with that?

Interesting story, sounds like someone's path might have been changed for the better. A small turn at an early age can have enormous results years later. Here's to hoping that young man has a wonderful future.

Look Ma, no jack stands!! So yes, when I started to put some weight on the back (me) one of the hangers went up. I had a stick handy and was able to make it go down. They seem happy now. I found some rubber for the check straps (rebound straps) so I will be making those up tomorrow and this weekend. Hopefully I can get them attached without much issues and the hangers continue to go down. I'm really, really glad you mentioned that in your post because I would have been really confused when one went up and one went down. Also... in case your wondering... no, it isn't some strange perspective trick with the camera, the two rear tires are different sizes. I'm not sure that either of them are the same size as the two on the front either. I'm probably going to live with this until I'm pretty much finished as I don't want to buy new tires and then get them messed up.

The workshop manual tried to convey this issue but failed... but since you've described it in a very understandable way... I now understand and will be looking out for that. I've been looking at every picture I can find to try to figure out just how those hangers work and why mine appear to be going up and not down. Many thanks for explaining it!!

Nice progress today but now I've run out of parts again. I thought I had the nuts for the u-bolts but they are nowhere to be found. One of the tires I planned to use is flat and I was going to patch the tube but found out today there isn't a tube in it. I believe the MG TD originally had tubes. I'm not ready to buy tires so I'm not real sure what I'll do. I might be able to put something like fix-a-flat in it for the time being. I also need to restore the wheels so I might go ahead and do that now. That will somewhat defeat my goal of having the car "on the ground" but it is probably the best course of action at this point. I might just put some air in the tire, drop the car on the ground, take some pictures and then take the wheels back off.

Might mention to the city that they failed to prevent the graffiti so maybe they should clean it off.

I can't fathom having to move the car in and out, glad you've got a few weeks where you won't have to do that. Looking great as usual.

Yes, no. 19 is a "check strap" and no. 20 is a "bump stop". I need to find some rubber to go in the bottom of 19 and attach it with rivets. Should be fairly simple but I haven't gotten to it yet. The top bolts straight into the frame rail. I also need to fabricate no. 14 which keeps the u-bolt from chaffing the axle.

The trend of getting (seemingly) more done on the weekdays than weekends continues. Plus... it is all so simple with the "restore by numbers" diagrams.

Assembled the rear backing plates, they are ready to be bolted to the rear axel. Assembled the rear shocks. These had been reamed and also need a "dish style" core plug to replace the ones I removed to press out the arm. I could only find the dish style core plugs in England and fortunately the company there (Core Plugs International) were just fine sending 4 little plugs all the way across the pond. I think the total including shipping was less than $15. The Internet is a great tool no doubt... but you still need a company that is willing to take 4 little 1.125" core plugs, put them in a little pouch, fill out the customs paper work and send it to the US for less than $15. Used the tools and bolts I created yesterday to assemble the links and attached them to the shocks. Hung the shocks from the frame. I really wanted to get the leaf springs hung and the axle attached but time slipped away from me. While putting the backing plates together I made several trips out to the parts car either to see how something was attached or to steal a part or two. While it seems obvious, I don't think I realized just how important a good parts car is. I've gotten a LOT of stuff off that car to restore a car that was "all there". Probably more true for a basket case project, but one shouldn't underestimate the value of a good parts car.

More lathe work today. I finished off the third piece of the bushing tool set by making the guide pin. The guide pin fits around the end of the link and is tapered to ease pushing the link into the bushing. The other end of the shock link connects to a plate that is under the leaf spring. The link attaches via a special bolt. You can see a similar bolt in the third picture from an MGA link. The bolts are $30+ each so, again, I decided it would be worthwhile to make them. I started with an old chisel as I was able to determine this was made of high quality tool steel. I couldn't figure out how to turn the taper so I ended up grinding a tool with the desired angle. This worked really well and I think it was probably the right way to do it. My threading skills are still a little weak and since I can't turn the BSF pitch anyway... I used a 7/16"-18 die that I ordered back when I started the project. After I finished both parts and verified the fit I cleaned them up and plated them. They ended up a little too shiny since they had a smooth finish from the lathe and not the media blasted finish. I don't think it is a problem as it shouldn't be too noticeable.

Are the carbs SU2 or SU4? I'm fairly certain I have an extra set of both so if you needs some parts, let me know. An hour a day is a great idea. I think it is a great way to keep things moving along. I've found that I actually tend to get more done during the week than on the weekends. There are 5 of those "weekdays" so a couple hours on each of them adds up pretty quick. On the weekends I've got yard work, house work, family stuff, etc so they zip by pretty quick.

I had to make some tools to get the rubber shock bushing pressed home. The OD of the bushing is 1.020" and the ID of the shock is 0.745" Moss Motors sells a tool kit (3 pieces) for $75 or so but I though this would be a great time to get some work in on the lathe. I bought 1.25" aluminum bar stock (2011) as I figured it would be very easy to machine and plenty sturdy enough to press in the 4 bushings. I bored a 0.700" hole and then modified an inside thread tool to get the taper as I didn't have a boring bar. Since it was aluminum it wasn't a problem and was easy to do. The "funnel" has an ID of 1.100" at the big end and .700" and the small end. There is a step at the small end so that it will plug into the shock link. I made another piece that holds the shock link in place and also limits the depth the bushing gets pressed in. I still have to make a "guide pin" to get the other end of the shock link into the hole but that'll be another day. It took way too long to do this and would have been much more time effective to buy the tool set from Moss but it was a great chance to improve my skills on the lathe.

Thanks Joe, this has certainly turned into a bit of an art project as well. There's something fascinating about the old bolts with all their unique stampings after they've been cleaned and plated. We're both hooked on it and all sorts of things around the shop are liable to get plated pretty soon!!

Got the front backing plates put together, brakes and hubs assembled and on the car. Put the wheels on for a bit just so I could see it on the ground. Things are starting to come together. I think I have everything for the rear and to finish the brakes. Would be great to roll it out of the shop (and stop it).

Shocks are back together and assembly can now begin. Starting to make some progress and I *think* I have all the parts I need to get a rolling chassis. I have, however, thought that many times.

Nice truck!!

Voltage is potential, current is realization of that potential. If you have the potential but don't have the "flow" then you have an open circuit. We would create this situation using a dielectric in lab. I'm not sure how that happened in the Toyota but I am curious. - maybe the headlight switch is acting like a dielectric.. I'd try replacing the switch.

Not stupid but a great test and would be great to rule out the ECM. My first thought was vacuum leak. Given the 75+ air temp requirement for the problem, it might be a vacuum leak that is only present when something turns on/off because of the ambient temp rise. bet guys here in the forum will be more helpful trying to pinpoint where the vacuum leak might be. I don't know much about the systems on that engine.

Excellent project!!! Can't wait to watch you work through this, thanks for sharing!

Looks perfect, like brand new or better.