Vila

First, I am not complaining here but I had never heard of this requirement for having a car judged before. At the Hershey show today my BMW was up for a Preservation award, and the judges asked me to remove my original interior carpet style floor mats for the first time. I was never asked this question when I received my 1st Junior or Senior. I removed them, but was curious as to where it says in the judging guidelines that the floor mats are to be removed, or I would have done it at previous shows. They are the original carpet mats and the carpet under the mats is easily visible around the edges. After the judges left the area, I asked the gentleman from the car behind me and he said you are always supposed to remove the mats. Since the judging guidelines are not searchable, it may be there but I could not find it. Thanks for a response in advance. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

The Bugeye Sprite does look happy. The Mazda has a sinister look like a half crazy Batman Joker as played by Jack Nicholson. I only live 25 miles from Hershey and I just got home from a day at the AACA flee market. With my aching knees and hips; if someone says something funny to me right now I will have a Mazda smile. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

On my 1933 Chevrolet I have used the throttle knob like a poor mans cruise control, but only if I am on a rather straight open road with no traffic. Visit my personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Just my opinion on this topic. The issue with many modern oils is the low zinc content. The auto manufactures figured out that zinc was killing catalytic converters so they re-engineered the engines to work on oil with lower zinc levels and the oil producers lower the zinc level in most modern automotive oil. You have several choices. 1. Go with whatever oil you choose and if the zinc level is low you can add a product like ZDDP. 2. Find a modern oil with sufficient zinc. Some of the oil with sufficient zinc that I am aware of include: Brad Penn and Hemmings (yes, Hemming Motor News now distributes oil for antique cars under their name), and I am sure their are others. I never looked into diesel oil, so I will take your word for it. Many racing oils also have high zinc levels. I have been using Valvoline VR1 synthetic racing oil in all my antique cars since the zinc level dropped in most oil. Valvoline also makes VR1 in a non-synthetic version. The non-synthetic comes in a lot more weights than the synthetic version. http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/ Also visit my personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Likes: 1. Most of the comments above. 2. No music. I don't want to hear any music, since I most likely will not like it at any volume. 3. Have it on grass. 4. Trees for shade. Dislikes: 1. Shows on parking lots. Several years ago I registered, several weeks in advance, for a car show that was on a parking lot and it was so hot I parked my car then went shopping in the mall with my wife for several hours until it was time to leave. Before we left for the show it didn't seem that hot until we got on that huge Mall Parking lot. Even during normally seasonally cool weather you can have extremely hot days, but it always seems cooler on grass. 2. Car shows at shopping malls 3. Loud music. 4. Country music at any volume. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I agree with GLong. The following is my opinion, and may disagree with what other believe on this topic. There is a reason they used Non-detergent oil years ago, detergent oil had not been developed. Same story with single grade oil, the reason they used single grade oil was that multi-grade had not been developed. Why use a single grade oil when you can use a multi-grade that has the recommended viscosity at operating temperature yet has a lower viscosity for better oil flow on startup. When I bought my 1933 Chevrolet in 1971 and my TR4 in 2008 I did not rebuild the engines, but did remove the valve covers, oil pans, and push rod side cover on the 33 and cleaned out the engines before using the detergent oil. The 1933 Chevrolet engine had been rebuilt in the 1950s and still had over 1/2 inch of sludge on the bottom of the oil pan. A detergent oil with a sufficient zinc level should be fine. Penrite and Brad Penn are made specifically for antique cars and have high zinc. I have always used detergent / multi-grade oil in my antique cars and switched to Valvoline VR1 Synthetic racing oil when the oil manufacturers lowered the zinc level in most oil. I do not put may miles on my antique cars, but I still change the oil once a year. Even if I only put 100 miles on the car. Visit my personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I agree with Mark. One of my jobs while I was in the US Air Force and Air National Guard for 32 years was technical writing and I must say the current numbering system is very confusing. Page numbers are repeated numerous times though out the booklet and the only way to know which section you are in is to first find page 1 in each section. Publications should either have a numbering system that starts at 1 and ends with the last page or a section numbering system that shows the section on each page. Another option would be to label the sections with letters on each page and the individual pages within a section using numbers. A few examples of page numbers would be A-1, A-2, A-3, B-5, G-7, etc. This makes it easier to first find the section since the letter it is marked on each page and then the dashed page number within the section. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

It looks a lot older than 1929 to me. The fact that the United Motor Company did not purchase both the Delco and Remy companies to form Delco Remy in approximately 1916 and this car has a REMY distributor which was the designation until after approximately 1925 when the tags changed to Delco Remy. Also, it appears to have a cone clutch which were only thru the early 1920s. I don't believe it is a Chevrolet engine, but do a Google search of "1916 Chevrolet engine" and it looks "similar" to the 4 cylinder engines shown so it appears to be closer to that vintage. Visit my personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I buy all my gas at the Gulf station listed on the pure-gas.org site in Camp Hill, PA, even for my Vespa scooter. It is actually on the eastern end of Shiremanstown, PA and just happens to have a Camp Hill mailing address since it across the street from the official Shiremanstown boundary. They only have ethanol free premium gas and it cost $0.40 per gallon more than the other local stations. It cost 10% more, but I get 12 to 15% better gas mileage so it is actually cheaper per mile. I don't know where the pro-ethanol people got the idea that your fuel economy only drops 3% using ethanol gas since between my 5 cars and 1 scooter I am in the 12 - 15 % range. I also use it in my lawn mowers where I was getting back firing when I turned them off with ethanol gas. Plus my on 2003 car always had black stuff on the back until I switched to the ethanol free gas. Now it is alway clean. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR3 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Anyone see the article on the history of license plates in the latest copy of the SPEEDSTER. If not, you can find it under the Publications tab on the AACA home page. I am by no means an expert on this, but it would be interesting to see a similar article on inspection stickers in the future. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I agree with RON. Also, several other PA inspection sticker and license plate changes took place from the early 1950s to 1970 and I don't know the exact dates on some. If anyone has the exact year for some of the Pennsylvania related items listed below, a posting here would provide good information. 1.) The location of the PA inspection stickers changed at some point around 1955 +/- a few years. Significantly earlier, but my 1933 Chevrolet has the sticker on the lower right side of the windshield, that I got from an original photo taken in 1933. 2.) PA eliminated the front license plate. 3.) PA went from issuing a complete new license plate each year to issuing a tag and then using stickers to designate annual registration thereafter. First year for the sticker was 1959, on 1958 metal plate. 4.) PA Inspections stickers had the date the car "was inspected" where now they have the "date it expires". I believe the last year for the sticker having the date the car was inspected was 1969. My 1933 Chevrolet sticker says "DATE INSPECTED". My 1962 Triumph sticker says "DATE APPROVED" and starting in 1970 they say "Sticker Void After". 5.) PA inspections went from every 6 months to annual. Visit my new personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I totally agree with the other comments. Also, be aware of what I refer to as the NASCAR drivers. They are the drivers who pass and then pull in less than a car length in front of you. The drivers the irk me the most are the ones that do the NASCAR pass then immediately put on their brakes. With the older braking systems on antique cars you need to keep extra distance between you and the car in front of you, which means a lot of drivers will be doing the NASCAR pass around you. Visit my personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Hudson33's photos look like a 1923 or 1924 radiator shell to me, but the early Chevrolet Master Parts Manual appears to show it is also used on the 1925 Superior F only cars. I always thought the top of the opening on all 1925 radiator shell should bow inward towards the radiator where as the 1923/24 shell curves upwards like the photo. The manual is a bit vague, but it appears to say only the 1925 Superior K model cars have a different radiator shell from the 1923/24 cars. As far as the radiator itself, for the Superior F the manual lists the entire radiator assembly and for the Superior K they only list the radiator core, which makes me think the radiators are different. Oldtimelampshop, you may get a better answer by posting your question on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) forum. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

15 inch rims with 48 spokes. Do you know the rim width. Try the british wire wheel chart at: http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/britishcars.php After you get the width dimension you can figure out what cars may have used them. At The Roadster Factory brand new painted 48 spoke 15 inch Dayton rims have a current list price of $409.95 each but they are on sale for $279.97. You can buy the Dunlop equivalent from other venders for slightly less. I would say our rims are worth the scrap metal value unless you can find something very unique about the design. The Roadster Factory website is: http://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/19.php The Dayton chart has a few errors. I know the Triumph TR2 thru early 1962 TR4 were originally equipped with 15 inch 48 spoke wheel and I believe when they went to 60 spoke wheels the spokes were cross laced front to back and back to front on the rim. Visit my new and improved personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

My 1933 Chevrolet Master 5 Window Coupe has that light. I'm not sure what earlier or later Chevrolets may have used the same light, but that is a possibility. Visit my new and improved personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Can anyone identify the car in the attached photograph. It is supposed to be Lieutenants John Macready and Oakley Kelly just prior to leaving New York on the first nonstop US transcontinental flight 2-3 May 1923. Visit my new and improved personal website at: http://jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Sorry I cannot help you with the number, but if you don't get answer here then try the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) forum. Can you give us a rough idea of the year, 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, or 1980s. Visit my new and improved personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Tom Do a Google search of "1932 Chevrolet horn" and then click on images and you will find a few good pictures of 1932 Chevrolet horns. If you don't get an answer here or can't find a good Google image, the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) forum may be a better place to post your question. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I question using an AGM battery in an "older" vintage car. I owned a 42 foot sailboat with an inboard diesel engine that I sold back in 2001. The Balmar alternator had a very hi-tech solid-state regulator that had specific switch settings for each type of battery; deep cycle flood, AGM, and Gel, etc. As I recall the AGM batteries were very sensitive to an accurate charging voltage, which was a lower voltage setting than other batteries. It doesn't seem like the voltage control of an older auto regulator would fit the bill for an AGM battery. Anyone use a normal flat top battery and add one of those Tar Topper? http://www.tartopper.com One issue is they are only made for Group 24 and Optima batteries. They appear to look good with a battery like the pictured Group 24 Exide, but I don't like the look with an Optima battery since the posts are in the wrong locations. Would it fit the bill for "may be of modern manufacture, but must be visually of the era of the vehicle" when used with something like the Exide battery? Visit my new and improved personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I have seen the Brugler tool and pin striping brush methods both used, and it actually looks easier to do it with the brushes. The guy I had do my BMW 633 CSi would not come as far as my location, but he did have jobs where he came about half the distance. He ended up doing my car in the parking lot of a super market about a block from his closest location. The cost for a triple strip the length of the car on both sides was $150 two years ago. Prior to contacting the guy that ended up doing my car I talked with local striper that did cars with the tape method. This is the tape method where they apply the tape, paint between the tape strips, then remove the tape. He admitted I would not be satisfied with anything except the striping brush method for an antique car. If I could not find someone then I would buy the striping brushes, some 1 shot striping paint, and the other supplies and practice on some glass until I had it down and then give it a try. I am sure there are some videos on You Tube demonstrating how to do this. Visit my new and improved website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

I also use the rustoleum satin black (7777) in a spray can over their red oxide primer. The black is in a can with a brown park bench on the label. Took around two cans to do the frame of my Triumph TR4. From the past, I know you can do invisible touch-ups by spraying a bit in the plastic lid and use a very small brush to apply it. Visit my new and improved personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Someone on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) forum may be able to help with the dimensions for a oil trough dipper gauge. As I recall this information was published in the Generator and Distributor (VCCA's monthly magazine) years ago, but since I have every issue beginning back in 1961 or 62 there are to many issues for me to go through to find it. Visit my new and improved personal website at: http://jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars- Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

What do you mean by "not working", no brake action at all or marginal braking. Even when mechanical brakes are working at their best they are marginal. Don't expect them to function 1/10 as good as even non power hydraulic brakes. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

Vintage AC Kleer Kleen Oil Filter Igneonite L1 Type L-1 Ford Chevrolet Dodge NOS If this is what you are talking about, there is currently a new one on ebay as a "Buy it now" sale for $29.99 + $12.35 shipping. I am not sure what the numbers 8 and 9 mean next to Buick in the Index of Contents. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi

A company like creative film cars or another such company may be your best option. Not to be negative, but there may be insurance issues associated with renting a vintage car from a private individual. Vila 1933 Chevrolet 1962 Triumph TR4 1984 BMW 633 CSi