drdon
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Posts posted by drdon
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# W is correct. I am unsure about your question concerning the pivot on the throttle arm. All I am missing is the choke rod itself, including the unusual top clip that holds it onto the carb choke arm, and also the bottom pivot assembly that screws to the manifold assembly. The rod itself is shown in the parts diagram you also had in your post, and looks as if, in the parts book the clip and bottom connection are a part of it.
I can't read the # on this one, but if you need the # I will go and get my parts book. I had it out the other day but it is back in the shop
for a bit. Does this help?
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I am in need of one choke rod for a 1937 EX-23. Somehow one has disappeared, and frankly I may have never had it as the Coupe Express came to me with no carb. If anyone has a choke rod, I am a willing buyer. Thanks.
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Studemax: Competent alert thinking with it driver in the driver's seat mandatory.
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This entire post is a real hoot. It is stuff like this that can't be made up.
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I know nothing about 1935 shocks, but found perfect shocks for my 37 at the local NAPA dealer, brand new. I guess they are probably a lot different but posting this for what it is worth.
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Duh- I did not look for the edit. My bad.
David, you have nearly every collectible that exists I think. Way to go.
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He said $65,000 in the text of the note. Wow. Looks like it will need that much in restoration. Are these
really worth $130,000 when restored. Whew.
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I assume you have already removed the horn button and the nut that holds the wheel onto the steering shaft (as well as having disconnected your battery to not have a problem with the horn wire).
I removed mine by first lubing up the shaft with PB blaster, leaving it (in my case a day or so) and then just tapped on the back side near the steering column with a rubber hammer. It finally came loose. I will be interested to see other advice which, I am sure, will be more reasonable than mine. (I could never get a puller to work and have three that I tried).
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Just a post about a similar situation-sort of. A good friend, recently deceased, rescued a 1931 Lincoln Limousine from a sawmill near Ouray, Colorado. Over time it was restored to grandeur, which included recreating all of the oak under the aluminum body. The car was absolutely gorgeous, and one of my daughters got chauffeured in it to the reception after her wedding. It had apparently been backed over a hill ?? and somehow used to power the saw. Estimated worth today: upwards of $200K I guess. I wonder if this was a common practice back in the "good ol' days"?
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Pretty good relay article on the net: Daniel Stern = Why and how to upgrade your headlamp circuit. Enjoy. If you have relays and don't know how to hook them into your system, I can help. Drdon1111@aol.com
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"Skinned Knuckles" just did a nice article last month on the relays and the advisability to install them if you don't have them. My Dad installed relays in the 37 Coupe many years ago, and I installed new relays in the Coupe Express while rewiring it (yep- Rhode Island Wiring makes great repop harnesses. Google them. ) I also have an internet article on relays and how to put them into your system if you don't have them. I will find that article and post how to get it on your computer.
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Good point BB. Yes, there are still Hollander manuals available on eBay- one "classic" is $69 but in the extensive list at the bottom of it's listing, I don't see 1935 Dictator included. It is the last left of three by this seller, but you might be able to contact the seller and inquire if the listing has accidentally left out your car. I have a Hollander and it isn't called a "classic" and Dictator's are part if it. ???
I recommend a thorough review of eBay listings (mine was not) and be sure you are getting something that will work for you. In addition, I think it is pretty hard to wade through the Hollander to find something that cross fits.
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Thanks Frank. I knew either your or RTQ would have the correct answer. I have the rubber insulators from Shrock's, and they are spot on perfect. I need to check on hardware. I will contact RI Wiring for the cross harness- assuming they kept the pattern. Sweet- these are so rare!
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What is finish? When I acquired these under the running boards of a sedan I picked up in California, there was no "finish" to speak of.
I keep thinking paint would make them less receptive to radio signals as if the location wasn't bad enough. Any ideas out there?
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On 37 the firewall is same color as the body. The example in the SNM is a President, and it clearly shows firewall/body same color. Don't know about '35 though but would guess Spinneyhill is right- why paint it a different color than the body?
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To add to RTQ post, the Shrock brothers are getting up in age (aren't we all) but their work is still superb. Don't be in a rush for your order (get it in asap) and I am sure you will not be disappointed. Good luck.
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eBay ain't the eBay it used to be. They let many sellers get away with "fits" when we all know it won't.
For your own protection, write the seller with a question something like "will you guarantee that this part will fit
my 1935 Studebaker Dictator"?. If they answer, (they won't) in the affirmative, then you have recourse to return
the part and get your money back, and also to hit them with a bad review. I would never NEVER order a part from
eBay unless it was specifically for my car.
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Thanks Brad,
I should have contacted Jerry before. I have his upgrade here, and bought it a while back in Cedar Rapids and never pursued getting
it going. Appreciate your input.
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Getting ready to get my CE started and hooking up the lines. I rebuilt all the lines, including the oil filter lines.
As per the parts book, the front line is 1/4" and the bottom line is 3/16". Ok until I began to hook them up and the bottom line won't screw in- it is too big. A 1/4" line would fit but??? Any advice out there? PS I threw away the old lines but am pretty sure I duplicated them.
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I posted on this in 2009- may have been wrong? I said F-3 or F-4. Now I am thinking F-1. Anybody?
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Great thought RBK. Another idea is try a higher octane gas. If I try to use 85 or 87 in my modern Chevy pickup- big "knock". Use 91- no problem!
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Nvonada,
I thought I was the only person that had ever happened to. My dad and I overhauled my sweet '57 Chevy BelAire engine and upon starting it back up it had this awful noise. Well my dad thought it was something I had done wrong and decided to pull the pan. Out came the oil, off came the pan, and luck was with us as he could see where the dipstick was being hit by the crank. He bent it to a correct position, on went the pan and in went the oil and viola, it was fine. LOL
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Agree with Robert about RI Wiring. They have done two complete wiring harnesses for me and a number of smaller jobs. Always first class, always timely, reasonable cost.
EX-23 Carburretor help
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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Ken, The part I need (choke rod) is #79 on page 81 of the Chassis Sixes '28-'40 book. It is part # P 21678.
Now when you say a core, what do you mean? I have 3-4 spare EX-23 carbs out in the shop. All pretty grotty looking
but I think all intact. What do you need and what are they going for these days? I can get pics of them if you need.
I don't know the year of them- I suppose some are 35, some 36-37? Let me know.