drdon
-
Posts
333 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by drdon
-
-
There's one on eBay starting at $75, including lights,etc.
A bit rough but aren't they all.
If this doesn't work out, email me.
-
Tenite is a cellulosic thermoplastic. It should be easy to tell these from chrome.
-
I went ahead and got pics of the window mechanism for 1936 as well
as the roller handles. I am also enclosing a pic of the addendum to help
with the correct handles according to body number. Look at 2120-90A.
-
Here is parts book drawing of the inside door handle. Note the left drawing is for 1936, the next one is for 1937. I can copy the window roller handles if you wish. Good luck.
-
Richard Quinn has done it again with a wonderful 12 page article and many great pictures of the 1936-37 Studebakers. You will find it in COLLECTIBLE AUTOMOBILE
magazine, December 2011 issue, on your news stand or at your favorite bookstore right now. Congratulations Richard- Well done.
-
Did -mat -mats -cover and got down to 19 items. Thanks.
-
Opened my computer this morning and 624 items in 1937 Studebaker -fits.
Crap. I hate this. Floor mats and car covers by the hundred. I know I just
beefed about this a month or two ago, but they got by the "-fits" now.
Any ideas out there?
-
I have found a number series (7 numbers) on the bottom of the left frame rail on two of my 37's, about even with the battery box. Never found it on one. Maybe it should be mentioned that the VIN number used here in Colorado is the one on the riveted plate located on the side of the frame, left side, about 6 inches behind the 3 bolts that hold the steering gear onto the frame. The third ID plate is located on the engine side firewall, right side, about even with the heater hoses. It identifies the production number of that particular vehicle, and I think the type (sedan,coupe, etc.) Can somebody smarter than me maybe clarify my muddy answer. PS: Ziffer: many good 37 owners are around and much help is available. If interested, my email is drdon1111@aol.com.
-
Tonight: 50 items, 3 actual 1937 items, not counting the generator brushes which have been on there for years. Boy do I need a "suicide knob" or especially a 12V fan (fits 1937 Studebaker) it says. OK, enough. I'll let it go. What a bunch of crap though.
-
Just having trouble tonight looking at older Stude items on eBay. I have a site bookmarked for 1937 Studebaker, and tonight there are 44 items on that site, of which 7 are for 37's, and the rest are a conglomeration of junky stuff that have nothing to do with parts for the car. Does this bother anyone else?
-
I've never s.een welting there. However it always rubs the paint where the sides contact the fender. After the paint job ( upcoming) I plan to cover that part of the fender with a small strip of the clear material I had installed on my modern car as a "bra". Almost 5 years later and not one rock chip!
-
Actually Dad would have changed the condenser 1st and I did- it didn't help this time. New points tho- ka- ching.
-
Pretty sheepish about this, but when we returned from Europe, I decided to do what my Dad would have done first- check the points. I did, replaced them, and the engine started in about one second. Thanks to all who offered help!
-
Best regards to all who are trying to help. I plan the
hotwire when we return from Europe. Will let you know
on this page what happens.
-
I will try that next. Gonna be somewhat near you the next couple of weeks. Travelling from Budapest through Vienna,Melk, etc. eventually up to Munich, Stuttgart, Frankfort and over to Prague. Should be fun! Will have iPad for trip so can continue to monitor AACA web. Best Regards, Don
-
Thanks for all the info these last few days. I still don't have spark- at the points or of course elsewhere. Still have active gas gauge but not the amp gauge. Horn works, lights work. Changed ignition switch, coil, condenser,checked continuity thru amp gauge, (and many other places) and have it everywhere checked. Sheesh.
If you want, go ahead and reply again (anybody) but I am in and out of town the next two weeks and won't have time to try anything till after the 21st.
-
When I inherited this car in the 70s from my grandfather, it had the typical problem with the two left junction block connections- and they had been fried. The two left wires were connected with modern connectors. It was the red wire that was loose yesterday so I rebuilt the connection. Now I have gas gauge, but not amp meter. I'm getting frustrated. I have gone over every connection of every wire under the dash, all tight and in good condition. Replaced the switch and armored connection to coil. Anybody with any other ideas. Sheesh
-
Replaced armored ignition switch today. Didn't help. Found out the original switch is ok. Found a possible bad wire splice. Fixed it. Now have, for what it's worth, gas gauge working, but not amp gauge. Wires are all "new" from Rhode Island Wiring when I rebuilt everything 20 years ago. Still look great.
Could it be coil? Condenser? Lights work now- don't know if they did or didn't yesterday. Doesn't seem as if juice is getting to plugs when I look at a gap for spark???
-
:mad:I started up my 37 this morning, drove it a short distance, turned it off. Now there is NO juice to the instruments when key is turned on, and it won't start. What the heck do I do? (Battery is fully charged- starter turns over easily.)
-
Fenders definitely different in mounting holes from car to Coupe Express. I found this out recently in the restoration of my CE, and since I like the car tail lights so much, and happened to have a spare pair, I decided to use the car fenders. The serial numbers are different for car and CE, and the mounting holes at first appear close, but are somewhat different when carefully compared. For me this meant filling the car holes and creating new CE holes in the right place. Maybe shoulda stayed authentic and just used the originals. Ah the joys of restoration.
-
I remember 1000 miles as the cut off for oil change. I can't remember about
filter replacement. I have a lube chart of my Dad's somewhere- if I find it I will
post the recommendations. Oh yes, it was 1000 for the lube job too, as well as a little finger dip check of the tranny and differential. Always use a chart Dad said, since there were some well hidden grease fittings (clutch release lever for one, water pump for another) that would escape your eye if you were just doing suspension and steering. (What the heck does this have to do with clean oil?) Happy April Fool's Day to all.
-
I guess I am thinking "what difference does it make if the filtered oil goes 'directly to the bearings' or if it is simply filtered so that all of the oil is filtered oil"? Filtered oil is filtered oil, and if it is what is going through the system then it is cleaned. Hmm. Maybe I just think too simply. Help us out experts. (PS I note a 3?-37 filter available on eBay today. A little high$$, but they are rare.)
-
I used Bob's Speedometer in Howell, Michigan (Google them) for my '37 Gauge and Speedo
Restoration. Wonderful job, look like new, albeit somewhat pricey, but don't know the costs
elsewhere. (4 gauges, speedo rebuilt and refurbished, to like new= $1200.)
-
Does anyone have interchange information for the generator on a 1937 Dictator.
I can't find a 1937 model (GMB-4607A or GMC-4802-A or GMB-4604A) so am wondering if the generators for '38 or '39 models are interchangable. I have misplaced my Hollander manual.
Metal Blackening/Black Oxide Finish
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
Maybe you should look up "Parkerizing" or "Manganese Parkerizing" (black rather than grey.)
I have many parkerized parts on my '28 Harley, and I keep them lightly oiled. It
never sees weather moisture anymore unless it rains at a car show, but just in case.
Parkerizing is a gunsmithing term. You can Parkerize yourself, but fumes are nasty.
I know there used to be firms that would do it for you- but try Google first, and also check on availability of commercial firms?
My home Parkerizing came out fine and years later looks great. Good luck.