drdon
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Posts posted by drdon
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I answered this once but it went into cyberspace. No they don't move on the pedal, but instead with the pedal. They are in a permanent position, once installed, just on the engine side of the firewall when the brake/clutch are not in use. When either is depressed, they ride along, and when the pedal is released, they resume their position just at the firewall keeping engine fumes from entering the passenger compartment.
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98back ss
r u in Colorado. Local great rebuilder/machinist has done two 37s for me. Interested?
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OK- I don't want to beat a dead horse but here is the "new" dilemna!
I cut the rubber seal so it could slip over the clutch/brake rods. Son of a gun,
it is too small. Measured, the rubber is ID of .7 ", while the OD of the rod
where the rubber goes is .9". Hmm, it simply won't go on now- or said another
way, it goes on but there is a huge gap where I cut it that cannot be brought
together. I guess I should check with Shrock's to see if I got the wrong one.
I checked the old dried up one I have left that is hanging on a spare clutch pedal
and it seems like it was maybe bigger. Ideas??
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Thx Tom. I had a feeling but when I looked at that original seal that appears to be one piece, all I could think of
was "How the heck did Studebaker ever get this thing on?" I guess I will always wonder about it-- at least as much
as I might spend time worrying about minutia like that. As in not again after I post this note.
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OK, maybe I just don't get it. Can anyone tell me how to install two new Clutch/Brake Seals on
my '37. They are Shrock Brothers seals, and I honestly can't figure out how to do it. I have a
spare set of pedals with the old hard rubber seals still on them, and they don't look like they
have been cut, installed and rubber glued. Help!!
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GC: My copy also shows painted running boards. I think that is an advertising thing, not a reality. Anyway, we should defer
to Richard Quinn on this one. Richard? In addition, my Drs. Coupe has been in the family since brand new and when I got it,
original paint, etc. it had black rubber running boards. For me, unless RQ says different, that is enough to settle it.
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What great replies from a number of people who know their oil dynamics a lot better than I ever will. Thanks all.
In retrospect, since this is a frame up restoration, this vehicle probably won't see more than a few hundred miles the
rest of my life. Not sure what I was worried about. It will be kept in a heated area in dry Western Colorado, not driven
in rain or snow, and probably outside temperature is not a factor since when it is started it will already be 70 degrees. '
Good food for thought for those who have restored their vehicles to be daily drivers but at the prices CE's are getting
up to now, to daily drive this would not be smart I think. Again, thanks to all who took time to improve my oil knowledge.
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PS to all of this. If you are going through your headlight system, it might be a good idea to add relays while doing it. It is my understanding that they add a margin of safety (fuses) as well as better lighting which we all agree is a good idea. I can get anyone a source for information on this if interested.
I stumbled on this accidentally as my Coupe had relays from ages ago, and my dad was always the mechanic for it since new (belonged to my grandfather.) so he had to have felt it was important to do it sometime way back. I thought they were factory, but of course they are not and I added relays to my CE restoration when rewiring it. I think I will add a third relay for the foglights as well since I have a spare.
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Can you believe it? I hope it isn't one of you out there who did this. $18,000 for what looks like a moth eaten rustbucket of a
37 Coupe Express on eBay. I guess if somebody has $50-60K or so to sink into restoration it is worth it. Phew. Makes me look like a genius for only paying $10 for mine.
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I was thinking Macs for Ford. Rechecked and now don't see. Must be the recycled pot in the air from all the tokers here in Colorado ( never tried it- life was too good for me to want to alter it!)
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I finally talked to my overhauler, who I trust totally. He said Valvoline Racing Oil, straight 30W, (I thinkVR-1). Available at local parts store.
Plenty of ZDDP. He frowned about the diesel oil, said it had some other "things" in it he didn't like. He was adamant about making sure,
regardless of the oil you choose, that you insure you have the correct amount of ZDDP in it. So, off to the parts store for VR-1. Thanks all.
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Tom, post some pics if you can. Mine is done except for paint, and am hoping to get that done before the big Moab, Utah car show -800-900 cars in a town of only a couple of thousand people, who, after the show is over, drag Main for hours. Very interesting since it brings traffic to a standstill or nearly so, and this is the main highway from Phoenix, et al to Salt Lake and Denver. Can you imagine a stranger hitting town the evening of the 4th Saturday in April and seeing hundreds of great restored cars. Less so now but in the past Moab hired up to 16 bicycle cops from other larger jurisdictions to keep the revelers calmed down and the burning rubber to a minimum. Traffic was so clogged that if someone did act up, the bicycle cop just had to ride up to the offender and pull them over. Motel reservations? One year in advance, minimum.
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Dang it to each of you- I was "sure" I had two rings but do not. I am not trying to weasel out of this- I cannot find them if I ever had them.
Right now I also can't find my Ford parts book from one of the many suppliers, but this one, if I remember correctly, had stainless rings for Ford
Headlights, and if I remember, cheap. If I can find the catalog I will post the name and even look up the part # and phone number. Anyone
out there who knows what I am referring to?
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Spinnyhill: I hear that the CJ-4 has lower zinc than the CI-4. I can't find any definitive answer. For now, I looks like either a multi weight oil with added ZDDP will be the way to go, or the CI-4 by itself. Thanks for the answers.
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Correct RBK. In addition, it has "helper" or auxillary leaf springs back there. I don't think I will ever haul any kind of a load in my CE that would
neccesitate the need for these springs and can't imagine that anyone else would as well.
PS RBK: will let you know if I have any headlight stainless rings.
Just re read the posts and note that studeq already noted the overload springs. TMI. Sorry.,
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At work now but let me look in my stash. If I have a couple I will let you know. Others may also as many cars have been switched to sealed beams and may not use the ring. Also, the ring does not hold the headlight in place, it is just a trim ring. Does your friend know how to install the headlights.
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Ok experts. What is the best oil for this 37 Dictator engine, recently completely rebuilt but not yet run. I hear any quality
multi grade detergent, Classic Car Oil from Indiana, 30 W only, synthetic, and don't forget the ZDDP. So what do you all
think and recommend. Getting ready to go on this.
In addition, one web site recommended loosening the oil pressure pipe from the back of the oil pressure instrument, wrapping it
in absorbent, and cranking the engine to get the pipe full of oil. I sure don't know about this. PS: instruments were completely rebuilt a couple of years ago by Bob's Speedometer in Michigan.
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Wayne, got into this kinda late but if there is anything I can do to help email: drdon1111@aol.com
Good luck. Great car great year
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Hey. Been there done that. My CE had a small crack in the frame just behind the cab, plus I was opting for a smoother ride. I bought a parts sedan in
California and used that frame. Studeq is correct, the fenders are different but I was able to use the sedan fenders, especially since they were in much better shape than the CE fenders. In addition, if you use car fenders on the bed, the location of the attachment bolts is a bit different requiring some modification. Other than that, a straight up swap without problems. In addition, the parts car had under fender radio antennas so there was that bonus, plus a fantastic grill. If you need more info or help: drdon1111@aol.com Finally, I wouldn't try the front end swap. Seems pretty hard and not worth the trouble.
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Rough looking CE for sale on eBay. Just information for someone interested
in a mega project. (No, not mine)
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Gotta go with your take on this. I would not have thought of it, but direct negotiation without the eBay commission is a win-win.
Thanks.
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What a joke. Hope this is not a SDC or ASC member. Shows several pictures of engine, interior, etc. and then,
when you read what is actually for sale, it is for one lug nut. Maybe I am being overly sensitive, but this sure
seems like some kind of bait and switch. The seller is honest about what is for sale in the description, but
of all the many pictures, none show a lug nut. Hmmm
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Not a site I turn to for humor but laugh out loud funny. Thanks for the entertainment.
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What the F. Thread Hijack? One person is looking for an EX-23 core and I chipped in looking for a choke rod for the same carb.
I don't get the hijack reference. Did I do something wrong by bringing up my need for the EX-23 choke rod on the same thread? Oh well.
Clutch/Brake Seal Installation
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
The seal does not affect the installation of the pedals. On 37's, the metal floorboard piece is removable, and the pedals can be installed before it is screwed into place. The floorboard piece is slit so that it can fit over the pedals. The seal is placed on the pedals in a position such that they close off the engine compartment from the passenger compartment when not in use. I can photo this if I haven't made it clear if you wish. Let me know.