drdon
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Posts posted by drdon
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Thanks to all. Makes sense that the covers would fail before the leaves. Duh.
I've been a bit spotty on being on and off this site with a bit of time in the
hospital this weekend. Surprise cardiac issue but am ok. Best to all.
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Nvonada and SMB: I don't think I asked the question very well. Do I need to remove the covers to see if the springs are
ok after all these years, or do you think they are probably ok. I am just worried that if moisture got inside the covers, it
would probably have stayed inside and maybe "hurt' the springs. Dumb question maybe but anyone with an idea?
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What is the proper thing to do with the leaf springs on a 6A 1937 Studebaker with the
metal spring covers (wraps)?
The car is a inland California car that had minimal (!!) rust throughout, but has spring
covers unlike my 1937 Coupe, which does not.
Should these covers be removed?
What should I expect on these?
Thanks for any help here.
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Mr. Dilling,
Sight unseen, and by that I mean in person as compared to photos or written description, there is simply no way to tell
what it might be worth. Rust is always an issue for this old a vehicle, and "no rust" usually means "just a little rust" or something similar. The fact that it runs is great, but a nearby friend had a running 1937 Coupe Express that he decided to get an engine overhaul on, and it turned out to be a major issue. Brakes this old are always a problem, and it could easily require all new brake lines installed. Tires? If over 10 years old, they would need to be replaced, and those run about $110-$135 each. Muffler? Upholstery? Instruments? Floors? Wiring? Chrome? I paid a couple of thousand for a California parts car (Stocton area) a few years ago, and consider it money well spent for the pieces/parts I was able to recover. I have seen sedans advertised in the $10,000 + range but not many. I am afraid that it comes down to a gut decision on the part of the owner. A car is always worth what a buyer will pay and what an owner will sell for. Your question is a good one, but there are so many intangibles involved that no one can guess a value range for you. Dang- sorry. I hope you can find somebody out there who would be willing to look at it and make an offer or at least provide a ball park estimate. Maybe someone in the car club? Good Luck.
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Can someone tell me, for 1937 Studebaker Dictators:
1) is the color of the base of a spark plug an item examined during a national judging?
2) if so, is the base silver metal, or a black color as I have heard?
I have a 28 Harley with original plugs which are metal bases (unpainted) so I know that
older vehicles came without painted bases. Howeve, maybe in the later 30s, this
changed.
Any help out there?
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Note two included pictures that apparently show that although the door glass may be the same for the Dictator and the Coupe Express (1937), the rear portion of the doors is not the same. I don't know if the CE doors will fit the Regular Coupe or Sedan, but they definitely will not interchange with the Business (Doctor's) Coupe.
:confused:
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As long as we are on this subject, is there a separate mounting point for the CE rear view mirror?
I note that you really can't see out the back due to the low location of the back window. Any ideas?
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That picture is of a 1937 CE. It is my understanding that the CE was built at a coach works using the body from a sedan that
was severed, a new rear of the cab placed, and also the bed. I think the doors are different, with a larger curve on the rear of the
door glass. RTQ will be the definitive authority on this. I hope he weighs in.
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rtq: you amaze me.
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I know this is not an advertising forum, but I just have to thank Rhode Island Wiring for the
incredible job they did on new wiring for my Coupe Express restoration. They provided wiring
for my Coupe 30 years ago and the quality is still superb. I can't recommend them highly
enough. Thanks RIWS.
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Here are some pictures. They may be self explanatory, but if not, let me know what is
confusing and I will try to explain. I originally cut a hole in the crossbar of the frame to run
the outgoing line, then realized that the tank "sucked" right up to the frame and the outlet
is above the frame. I did have to use a tubing bender to bend the tube to the left to get it
to match up with the line going to the fuel pump.
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Go back and find the post by dkstud37d, ( I think that is right) from 2007. I followed his lead, and
installed this tank on my Coupe Express. If needed and requested, I will post some pics of it as
installed, with the changes I had to make, etc. Hope this helps, and that this tank is still available.
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I, for one, would just like to see pictures of it, in whatever condition.
Any chance?
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Hi there Black 944. I don't see a way to contact you other than posts to this site. I recommend that
you add an email address to your post- otherwise you aren't likely to get many answers/questions/bids.
Good luck.
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Greetings Don,
Does the Coupe Express use the same seat as the Dictator 4-Door? If it does I can send you some pictures of how my seat mounts.
George
No George, it is quite different. First, it is fixed- that is there is no mechanism to slide it back and forth. The only adjustment is that the bottom of the separate back cushion can be set in about 4 different positions to bring it forward or backward- I guess putting the driver closer or further from the controls/pedals. Very strange setup indeed.
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Thanks for the note Jerry. I noted in past forums you were looking back in '07.
Maybe nobody knows or can help. Mine had this wired together goofy rectangular
setup out of what were about 2x3s. I am afraid I threw it away, and now wish I
hadn't. I could have made a similar one out of oak that would have been nice-
but Studebaker must have had something to work with better than that crap.
Help out there!!
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Studebaker friends:
Anyone out there with pictures or schematic of how the wooden base of the 37 Coupe Express seat
fits the floor. I have the seat, with the metal guides on the front to the right, but when placed on the
floor, the base of the wood in front of the battery cover rests right on that cover. Can anyone help
with some photos or advice on how to correctly fit this. (When I got this, the previous owner had
constructed a wooden framework to sit it on. Obviously home made and not appropriate.) If you
wish, just send info to drdon1111@aol.com. Thanks!
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OMG!! One and one half years. Holy crapola. I sent my panel to Bob's Speedometer in Michigan for restoration, and it came back in pristine new looking and working condition, and they only had it for, I think, 3 months tops.
I would sure worry if I sent something off to get work done and a year + later it wasn't done. (My radio took a local radio guy two years, but he warned me it would be a year or two when he took it, and I checked from time to time and it finally got done. ) And worked!
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I put one of the repop Chevy tanks on my Coupe Express restoration. It fits a bit differently,
but does go in there and looks pretty good. I have the bed off again right now, and will be
glad to send you some pics and particulars if that would help. My original was basically shot-
on the top! Hmm
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I now have a fully restored (ready for paint) bed for my CE project. I just don't know what color for the underside of the bed- body color or black? Any experts out there? Thanks.
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Thanks Larry,
I have to learn how to do that. Sure would make for less posts.
Best regards. 3 months to South Bend!
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Look on ebay under 1937 Studebaker parts. Located in Fort Collins, Colorado,
and price seems steep at $165 to start.
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Put in your search: 1956 Other Makes in All of ebay motors. This should easily
find it. It is a 1956 Studebaker President. There was a note on the SDC web site
by someone mentioning it. Good luck.
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Amazingly, this is listed under "other makes". If 1956 is your cup of tea, take a look. I know nothing about them, but seems quite restorable. I have no financial interest in this car, and do not know the seller. Good luck.
chasing door alignment
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
Not really an answer to your query, but I asked a "body man" if he could fix the slight sag in the doors on my Coupe Express restoration. He said he could. Oops. He broke the body at the hinge attachment at all four hinges. I had to have a real restoration artist rebuild this part of the body by going in through the outside of the cowl and building reinforcement. It is perfect now, the doors close perfectly and are completely in line, but oh my the $$$. I guess I am saying if you try to lift the door to get a better fit on closing, be really really careful. The restoration artist thinks the first guy used a jack under the door. Wow. Good luck.