rick60

The bottom of my 1960 Ford is unrestored original. It was painted red oxide primer with black undercoating applied in a random pattern. The outer portions of the floor pan were covered completely. The driveshaft tunnel had primer only. The area in the rear wheel wells were covered completely. The area by the rear bumper had very little undercoating, almost like overspray. I don't think the procedure changed much from 1960 to 1961. Keep up the good work. I enjoy your restoration posts.

I'm enjoying following both of your VW projects. Very nice work! I think it is great that the original owner is treating this car to a proper restoration after years of faithful service.

To check for water leaks do the following: Cover the air valves located in the door jambs with masking tape. With the ignition on, engine off, close all of the windows and put the blower motor on high while in the fresh air mode (not recirculation mode). This will pressurize the cabin. You can now pour soapy water over the vehicle. There will be a large amount of bubbles were there are voids in the sealant allowing water to enter. Raise the hood to inspect the cowl area. It is normal for bubbles to be visible around the door handles and along the belt line area near the door glasses. It is a quick way to locate leaks. Good luck with your project.

I think that chrome that is in poor condition looks better than chrome that has been painted. If it is really bad shop around for used replacement parts in better condition. Check out Shadetree77 posts. Robert did a nice job locating used trim for his Buick. Nicer used trim pieces can be an acceptable alternative to expensive chrome plating costs. Good luck with your car.

It looks as if there is compression coming back through the carb while cranking. This would indicate a problem with the valves. Either an intake valve is not closing or an exhaust is not opening. It may just be an exhaust valve lifter that is not pumped up. It might be a good idea to remove the valve covers and observe valve action while cranking the engine prior to starting. Buick guys would know more about your engine. Good luck.

THE '59 FORD IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE CARS. DO THEY STILL OWN THE CAR? CAN YOU PROVIDE MORE PICTURES? HAS THE CAR BEEN RESTORED? THANKS FOR POSTING THE PHOTO.

I saw this at another site and really enjoyed watching it. I hope others like it too. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162633

The auto dimming mirror is easy. There are only three wires. It's best to check the schematic but as I recall (it's been ten years) you need 12 volt source, 12 volt when head lamps are turned on and a ground. Be sure to take the wire connector when removing the mirror from the parts car. I had an auto dimming mirror that I transferred from car to car. They will spoil you once you have one.

The item in post #7 is the DERM. Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module. It is part of the SIR or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint system also known as the Air Bag system. It also incorporates an inertia switch to deploy the Air Bags. Read the manual before touching this sensor. You can cause the bags to deploy causing damage to the vehicle and possible injury to yourself. I witnessed this when I worked as a mechanic The mechanic working on the car was stunned but uninjured. When the bags deployed the instrument panel was damaged and the windshield was broken. It happened when he moved the DERM with the ignition on (so he could listen to the Cubs game). The SIR components incorporate gold connectors to last forever. Due to liability issues the SIR must function regardless of the condition or age of the vehicle. That is also why diagnostics and history data are part of the SIR.

I'm still not sure of the answer. I've joined the forum mentioned above but have not posted a question yet. I have seen a completely original 1946 Pontiac with wood grain on the front doors and dash and painted rear moldings. The Pontiac was 100% factory original. I assumed it was an assembly line mistake. Maybe not.

I used JB Weld and the above techniques 15 years ago. The wheel is still perfect. I noticed that the sanding process made me physically ill. I don't know what my wheel was made out of. I've spent my adult life in auto repair shops so I really don't notice chemicals and combustion odors. I was wearing a dust mask but not a respirator. There was something released when I sanded that wheel that made me ill.

Thanks for the reply. I'll try that site.

I'm not a Buick expert but this seems to be a desirable car at a decent price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Other-Trunkback-Limited-1940-buick-phaeton-limited-convertible-81-c-trunkback-special-eight-/301511527499?forcerrptr=true&hash=item46337ccc4b&item=301511527499&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Is the instrument panel on a 1940 129 convertible painted body color or is it supposed to be wood grain? Thanks

Is this the 1933 version?

I went out to the garage to take a look at my 1960. The front mount located by the cowl is circular. Th OD is 1 3/4 inches. My front mount is compressed so I can't provide the thickness. The remaining mounts are square. They measure 2 1/2 inches. The rubber portion is sandwiched between two pieces what appears to be hard plastic. The plastic material is about 1/8 thick (each). Total thickness of the square mounts is 7/8 of an inch. My square mounts are not badly compressed. The body of my car has never been taken off the frame. The plastic type material resembles the same material that older printed circuit boards were made of. 1950 Ford passenger body mounts are a close match to the square 1960 mounts. The 1950 mounts are not sandwiched between the pieces of plastic. I know that the 1950 mounts are reproduced. I can provide pictures at a later time if you think they will be of some assistance. I hope this helps.

I have a 1986-1990 3.0L, 3300, 3.8L $3800 pocket data book, a1989 Toronado pocket vehicle diagnostic system book and a Service Technology Group (STG) pocket antilock brake systems quick reference book. These would be very helpful for a technical advisor. I'm not sure if the OLDS Club has technical advisors for these particular vehicles. I realize they are not the most collectable Oldsmobiles but maybe they can be of some help to Oldsmobile Club members. I would like to donate these to a tech advisor or maybe the club library. Please PM me or email rln31455@yahoo.com to provide a postal address. Thanks Rick

I've also seen a bad bulb cause similar problems. The bulb burns out causing one of the filaments in a dual filament bulb to contact the other filament. This creates a short be tween the two circuits. For example: Applying the brakes can cause the parking lights to illuminate, activating a turn signal can cause all of the park lights to flash. This scenario is not common but it is something that should be checked when chasing problems of this nature. I agree that poor grounds cause similar problems. A circuit with a poor ground will seek ground through another circuit and create conditions that you describe. Good luck.

I take my vehicles to a local body shop that has wheel alignment equipment. They do their own alignment on cars that have been in accidents. They are thrilled when they can work on a vehicle that has not been hit.

Great car! Do you know the history of the vehicle?

A few passengers exit through the window behind the driver.

I worked at a Buick dealership that opened in 1912. They had some of the old equipment stored in the parts department. The engine stand looked as if it could support an entire new car. It was massive. You turned a crank to rotate the engine on the stand.

Try J&P Custom plating located in Portland IN 260 726 9696 www.jpcustomplating.com

I agree with Keith. My heart sank as soon as they opened the hood. I recently sold a car for a lower offer. The higher offer buyer was telling me of his plans to modify/rat rod the car. The car I sold will not modified and lost to history. I sleep well at night knowing the car went to an owner who appreciates and respects the car.

The steering wheel must be removed with a specifically designed tool. A steering wheel puller is a common tool it the US. The steering column is attached to the steering gear box. The outer tube can be separated from the gear box. The tube can be slid off over the steering shaft. It can be difficult to remove and install because of the angle of the column. The steering gear can also be removed from the frame and the unit disassembled out of the car. If you don't already have one, I would recommend purchasing a service manual. The manual will provide instructions for steering wheel removal and all other repairs your car will require. They are available on eBay. Good luck with your project.