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About WhipperSnapper

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  • Birthday 08/29/1986

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    Woodstock, GA

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  1. Thank you for the reply! Mine is the Dynaflow automatic. Any recommendations for lining up the torque tube? I have the rear end disconnected, as it says to do in the book. It’s on a floor jack so it’s still mobile without allowing the wheels to spin the shaft. I spent a solid hour trying to line it up with no success. 😞 I ordered a seal kit for the torque ball housing and it came with 2 matching paper seals, and three additional paper seals, but different colors and much thinner. No instructions. Finally, does the copper bowl use a seal against the transmission? πŸ˜›
  2. Hey guys. I’ve got a question, or two... So, I've spent most of the day mounting the engine and transmission to the frame in my 51'. I'm having some trouble mounting the torque tube to the rear of the transmission. The book suggests that the spline should just slide in, but that's not been my experience. Perhaps I don't have everything lined up properly? I’d also like to get some clarification on proper assembly of the torque ball... What gets sealed, what gets lubricated prior to assembly, etc. Are there any oil channels that need special attention? The book is very vague on the subject. πŸ˜• Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance! - Joseph
  3. The front suspension is finally done. 😊 Engine and transmission go in tomorrow!
  4. Well, would you look at that! πŸ˜ŽπŸ›‘
  5. I'll be doing the chrome on my 51' Super soon. How did you get it looking so good?
  6. Wowee! Beautiful car! Your chrome work looks fantastic. I love the look of that script on the trunk!
  7. Wow! Nice Buick and lots of progress! How much power are you expecting from this new drivetrain? What's your plan for the interior? Also, I'm jealous of that MEGAshop! πŸ˜›
  8. Spindles are back from the machine shop! Wilwood disc brakes go on this weekend! Here's a diagram of the conversion, for those of you interested.
  9. More progress! The spindles need to be honed before they can be put back on. The distributor is rebuilt and ready for instal. Electronic ignition will be added after the engine is back on the frame.
  10. Got the parking brake cleaned and painted tonight, along with a few other odds and ends. Yes, I know it's not supposed to be black. Originality police, arrest me. πŸ˜›
  11. More parts cleaning tonight! The heater core is done and most of the distributor parts are cleaned. Hoping to have the distributor back together by the weekend. I've been going through the shop and storage rooms, just cleaning and painting any parts that I can find. It's getting harder and harder to find unrestored parts, which must mean that we're getting close. πŸ™‚
  12. I got the brake pedal installed tonight! Not big news, but it is progress. πŸ™‚
  13. I sent mine to Kanter. I recommend them. They did the leaking shock under warranty.
  14. Parts are in and the leaky shock has been repaired! We're ready to finish the frame and mount the engine / transmission. πŸ™‚
  15. Well, I guess I'd start by asking the following: - What's your budget? - What's the extent of your mechanical abilities? - What's your timeline? Assuming that your car isn't eat up with rust, it can be restored. Yes, it will be expensive, but you certainly don't have to do a complete frame-off restoration. The big ticket items will be the usual suspects (engine, transmission, suspension tires, etc.), like on any other car. Parts for these cars are relatively cheap and easy to find. I owned a 60's Mercedes a few years back that's upkeep would make a multi-millionaire wince! Maintaining these Buicks is quite cheap, compared to many other classic cars. At the end of the day, it really comes down to you and what you want. If this is the car that you want to save, then I say have at it. You can always stop working when funds run dry and pick it up again later. That's what I've been doing on my project. If you read through my thread, you'll see that I was very ambitious about the timeline in the beginning. That was 2014 and the cab still isn't back on the frame. πŸ™ƒ Value is tough to peg because some buyers see treasure where others see a pile of junk. As an example, I paid $4,200 for my 1951 in 2014. It ran, but not well. It didn't drive because the brakes weren't working. Fuel was leaking everywhere from a busted line. The car had a nice newer (early 90s?) interior but was otherwise original. The floor pans were rusted out. The tires were junk. I still saw a $4,000 car. I knew that I was going to be tearing it down, so I wasn't concerned about those little things. If I had been looking for a good driver, I wouldn't have bought this particular car; I would have paid ~twice as much for one in better shape. When it comes to these Buicks, it's a buyer's market. The only way you'll know the value is to list the car and see if anyone bites. I'd start at $1,200 and work my way down. The car is worth more as parts than it is whole. I'd give you $100 for a decent 51' hood ornament right now! πŸ˜› My $0.02: Bringing any car back from this point is a labor of love. If you're not in love with this car, it's probably best to let it go.