KenHupp20

That was quite a collection , And Dick was quite a guy. Sadly both are gone.

Found some other pics

I found my previous post : http://forums.aaca.org/f170/can-anyone-id-early-truck-260433.html from Apr. 4 2009 in the What is it ? section, under "can anyone ID this old truck .Ken

Yes, there was one at the Dick Kemp Mack truck collection( Hillsboro, N.H.). I will see if I can locate photo.

There is an Aluminum Jelly. I've never used it myself.

Not as easy to apply but I have tried the melting bees wax with amazing results.I just took some hardware off a buggy rail , more than likely had been on for 100 years, two applications did it . Using a propane torch and only enough heat to thoroughly warm the piece, not red hot. Granted the age(quality) of the metal might have been an advantage . Have also used 1/2 ATF +1/2 acetone.

There is a Black Top Dressing Black Top Dressing - Quart Can - MAC's Antique Auto Parts

Never-Dull might be good .I don't think there is any abrasives in it.

I was referring to the method of using a piece of cigarette ( extremely thin) paper to feel the points beginning to open, thus cause spark. Not to set the gap.It seems like a much simpler method than taking the back apart. This old fashioned method works well when you don't have a timing light.

I have another question ;can the timing be set by the cigarette paper in the breaker points method?

Great, and you can't beat the price either. Ken

Excellent information. Here are the diagrams and text from the owner's instruction booklet.Same as Edgar's instructions but thought you might enjoy. Ken

I would try 25 % Vinegar ,75% water .

White vinegar and water, soak overnight

For your touch up I would recommend SEM brand of"rattel "cans. There is a self etching primer,and high build primer.At your auto supply. Ken

It took some doing but I have solved the overheating problem.I had a spare set of jugs machined and have installed them. The engine now runs @ 190 degrees, no other changes were made. The casting flash was the problem. I believe the "optional " or added fan was an attempt by HMC to take care of the problem,an early factory recall you might say .My car is #1175 fairly early, I suspect Hupp found and corrected the problem in the cores for the casting later on, so the problem likely occurs only on earlier Hupps.

Jamestown Distributors has #4 1-1/4" but it's flat head in brass. That's the closest they have.

I have one that seems close , measures 1 3/4 " overall height. Also two others which might give you the handle portion you need for the others,with a little work. Ken

Hmmmmmm, no idea why that didn't work

Let's try that last photo again ,

With the rubbing only on one side I'm thinking the worn out carrier bearing plus a worn wheel bearing are the problem. I do respect Edgar's comments and stand amazed at the amount of knowledge on these cars and their various parts,and evolution. But I would suggest if the axles and hubs were not correct it would appear on both wheels, also if they were not correct the problem would have presented itself in the first mile ( if not 50 feet). How many miles would you say the car has since it's last restoration ? Hope that helps, Ken

Hi Tom, Edgar sent me these photos and asked me to post them for you. I will let him take it from there as to which is which ,and correct for your car. Photos are numbered 238 240 243 246 Ken

Another question for you Tom; Which wheel is rubbing on the brakes ? I suspect the right side . I'm thinking you have play in the differential carrier bearing allowing both axles ( and differential ) to shift to the left ( as the pinion would not allow shifting to the right).

I agree the problems look deep,either in the color or primer.Perhaps not enough tack time on that part which trapped solvents.

Indiana, sorry to hear that news . What a bummer. I too am in a long time restoration, a few clutch problems, and the like . I feel "almost " qualified to say I feel your pain. Love the old trucks ! Ken