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Robert, Great reading your column. Thanks for keeping us informed or your progress. Just a thought, have you checked how much vacuum there is when cranking? I had a similar experience and found that I had a huge leak at the intake manifold. Is the timing correct ? Continue keeping us informed. We're curious what happens tomorrow. Thanks

I teach just outside of Youngstown, Ohio. I remember sometime in the late 80's or early 90's Avanti had a manufacturing plant and dealership on Wick Ave. Anytime I drove by the University (YSU) you could see the newer Avanti's driving by and in the showroom windows. Wish I could have bought one back then. I'll have to yahoo the 'Avanti' and read it's history. I have to say 'yahoo' and not 'google' because my brother works for 'Yahoo'. thanks for keeping up informed of your progress. Bill

Thanks for taking to time to educate and inform us of your progress. I really enjoy following your stories and learning. Keep it up. You sure are able to find more time than I do to work in the shop. I'm a bit jealous. Thanks

Hi Steve, yes, I'm definitely interested. Can you send a few photos and let me know what you're asking for them? You can PM to YBF@aol.com Thanks Bill

Thanks Greg. The rechromer left a message that the pits have left holes that go all the way through the metal pieces. I haven't picked up the pieces to see how bad the holes actually are. They were in REALLY bad shape. After I get the pieces back, I'll photo them and send them to your friend for an opinion. Thanks very much

Hi , I'm looking for rear tail light assemblies for my 65 Electra. Just found out that the pot metal in mine are too pitted to be rechromed. Condition good -to - NOS. Part Numbers: Lamp Assembly - 910646-5 Individual Piece #'s 5956600-599 (L & R) 5956324-3 (L&R) 5956602-1 (L&R) 5956986-5 (L&R) Please send photos. YBF@aol.com Thanks

Another member posted this a week or so ago. Maybe it will help: ANTIQUE CAR CLOCK SERVICE I am a retired Clocksmith and now repair only antique car clocks. For information, you can contact me at bobspil@comcast.net Bob.

Jim, I like your photo of 'on the road' I passed a large flat bed yesterday hauling a dozer, a backhoe, and a shiny red late 70's -early 80's Pontiac Trans Am convertible. Made me take a second look for sure. Happy Holidays to all.

I forgot about all the brake pads, rotors I've had to put on. I guess I'm looking for the crystal ball that will tell me when the engine has had enough. When I worked in a machine shop during high school and college we did alot of valve jobs and some engine rebuilding. I've seen the crud your talking about. The underside of the oil fill cap doesn't show any evidence of water in the crankcase, nor does the dip stick. Sometimes maybe it better NOT to know on a car that has this many miles on it. I'll save the testing for my BUICK. thanks and Happy Holidays to all.

Great information. Thanks. Would it be beneficial to have a reading on a car with high mileage? Not having a base line or previous reading would having an oil analysis help you with when to trade the old daily driver in and look for another? I drive about 100 miles a day on an 05 Kia. Change oil every 3.5K. use 5W-30 and never have to add between changes. Car runs great and other than tires, filters, fluids, and fuel I haven't done too much. Got 145K on it and wanted to keep it till fall 2012. My wifes car will be paid for then and I don't want to join the 'book of the month' club till then. Any thoughts? thanks

I'd bet that you could modify a U Joint Clamp to work without a whole lot of fuss. Just cut a slot in the tubular section so the steering column would fit. Good Luck.

Hi Curt, Have you tried bending it around a pipe? I use to fill the tubing with white playground sand, cap the ends and heat the section I want to bend. Once a nice wide section is heated, I'd hold one end tightly and wrap the tubing around the pipe. The pipe is usually mounted vertically in a vise or in some cases it was the support pipe holding the ceiling. Depends on the size of the bend. I've never tried it with brass though. How expensive it the tubing? Let us know what works

Beautiful job Robert. Thanks for keeping us informed. It's great to see how others solve their problems.

I'm ready to drop off my tail light potmetal at Lakeside Plateing in Conneaut, Ohio. They did a fantastic job on my trunk lip edging a few weeks ago. It was heavily pitted and cracked at the key hole. I can't see any pits through the chrome and it shines great. They re-welded the key hole opening and reinforced it with a thin wire that cannot be seen. Bill

What years were Buicks made with wooden frames, tops, doors, or dashboards? Are there any books on the subject available? thanks

Costs have risen. It's taken over two years for me to get the body of my 65 Electra Conv. ready to paint. New OEM fenders, sanded off all panels to bare metal, filled and primed with self-etching primer. Doors adjusted and body panel edge lines are pretty darn good. Complete interior and all chrome and weatherstripping taken off. Hard to guess what the cost would have been if I had it done professionally. I'm sure they'd have it done faster. I got a few prices on painting this summer after being put on 'hold' by a local shop. Most of the prices started at 5K for priming and painting. So I've decided to paint it myself in the spring. The shops all wanted to use Urethane and clear coat. I'll use Acrylic Enamel. I'm in the process of sanding the old fenders down and preping them exactly like I've prepped the car. I'll make a nice wooden stand that simulates how they would sit on the car and try my hand at painting them the first nice weekend we get in April or May. I've got an HVLP system I've used for many years painting houses both interior and exterior. Never tried it on a car, so this will be the first. I'm guessing I'll have under $500 in materials. Sea Foam Green Metallic color. I've got all winter to read up on what could go wrong. That means I'll have more $$$ available to buy my new conv. top. and maybe enough to have the trans rebuilt over the winter. That's one job that I'm not experienced enough to do. What does a rebuild of a ST400 run these days if I take it out of the car? Thanks

1954 buick special parts or rebuild 'details' have a 1954 buick special no title brought at a storage place,,motor turns floors dont seem real bad also have another 1954 with title this has a 1973 transam motor and trans and posi real it runs selling that one for 1200 buy them both ill give u a deal also a good hood for sale trunk and 2 nice fenders grills etc and a nice 425 rivera engin and tranny 1965 with 66000 miles on it everthings for sale lots of old carbs radios tailights call 440 563 4766<!-- START CLTAGS --> Got to finish my 65 Electra before I start another project..........or at least get closer to finishing it. I guess we're always looking.

Not a clue. I've spent most of my time with 65 and 66 Buicks. Sorry I could not help you

Here are emblems for a 66 Electra on Ebay. eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

When I learned to make Windsor Chairs a few years ago, we placed the spindle ends in a tub of hot sand for a few hours. The sand would eliminate all the moisture and shrink the wood. After placing the warm spindle end in the seat socket, the spindle locked into place with no additional fasteners needed. It might be overkill, but I thought I'd share it with you. Bill

Never use a bumper jack on the rear bumper of a 74 LeSabre and think you can stop the car from rolling forward after the back tire gets off the ground. Even when you grab the bumper jack with your hand and try and hold it back, the car just rolls very slowly and pins your hand between the jack and the tail light lens. Ouch.

I agree with Don. About 2 years ago I finally got to the place of starting the engine in my stored Buick. I had replaced so many parts in the prior years as time and money permitted that when the engine stumbled and hesitated after starting, I was overwhelmed by what could be wrong. I relied on a lot of help from fellow ACAA members to figure it all out. I reinstalled the original points/cond as one of the first fixes as recommended by many. It's almost to the point where I'll try the Petronix system again. Probably this summer when I can finally get the car back on the road for good and get a few tanks of clean high test gas through her I'll put the system back in her for a try. Bill

Hi Can you post a photo of the engine? Your 7K number doesn't show up in any of my books except for a 1960 Caddy 390 V8 and that number is a 07K.... Where is the dist. located? Do you have a head casting # instead? Thanks

Any idea what the group number or part # for that switch might be? Thanks

Darn, I have the pull style switch. I bought the complete setup from what was to be a 65 Electra. Guess I have to look for the correct switch now. Thanks