johnemac

I have the pilots and they have more of a doughnut seal. Any moisture problem was due to the doughnut not snugged in right.

I had a pair of sequential turnsignal modules that were pretty ragged looking. The car they were last in sat for months and I thought one module was bad. I sent the pair in and to my surprise I got two new modules returned to me. Two thumbs up, an asset to the Reatta community.

I asked at O'Reillys and the one where I live had an aerosol can mixed for me but not in house. It took about two days and was $23.00. The spray can was larger and will go a long way. If you want an exact match you would have to take your car (or some panel) to a paint house or body shop as Ronnie mentioned so the color read will account for any fading. The O'Reilly paint was Seymour.

I was driving and a mouse ran across my legs. It was during a hot summer and the mouse died. Hot dead mouse hidden in the car is no treat. I found it weeks later under the drivers side mat. I just trapped one today in the red car.

I have seats in one that are sun baked. Soaked them in the leathertique, wrapped them in a black garbage bag, and left in the summer sun. Did it twice to no avail. Had a small tear in one and went to Dr Vinyl. The guy said he would first soften it up for $75 then repair it.....not. I hope your's are not shot like mine. I would suggest you first go by an automotive upholstery shop and ask for an estimate, they would let you know if they were ok and you could proceed with ideas from other posters instead of money spent for a lost cause.

Before you pull things apart you might just "snug" down the bolts and see if that will do.

I am dealing with the same mess and four bolts to remove the drivers seat is a big help.

Read the prior posts about how the new convertibles were graded and sold based on the front end shimmy. General public, Gm employee's only, trade schools, and crusher. I am sure alot of lesser vehicles; Gm employee's only, have filtered into the general population

I changed my oil yesterday and saw my brake fluid down about a third. I unscrewed the cap and added the third, and now I have a yellow abs light. I read Ronnie's tutorial (after the fact) and am wondering how simply unscrewing the cap, adding fluid, and replacing the cap caused the light- if related. Thank You

American Family has been good for me. I thought they were going to laugh at me when I brought in the red 225,000 mile (then) car for hail damage. They treated it as if it were a new car, counted the dings and added the amount for a new windshield.

Let us know also what the minimum amount of cuss words are needed

Sometimes the ol leather is just shot. I did the Leatherique, putting the seats in the black trash bags on a hot summer day to no effect. Later had a small tear in a seat and the Dr Vinyl guy said he would first have to soften the seat since it was too dry, got it back as stiff as ever.....

Since the old shock is being trashed I just get a grinder and cut thru the rod.....

I think it would be great just to have the hood fabricated and installed.

I had hail damage with a broken winshield awhile back and American Family acted as if it was a new car. They counted the hail dings and gave me an amount reflecting each being fixed (about $70 each) then pulled up the price of a new windshield (about $1400) and wrote me a check on the spot. I went to Jim Finn's house and a great windshield, hood, and trunk was about $550.00.

Thank you NC Reatta

Has anyone found a spray can based dye that matches the interior blue color? Thank You

Thank You McReatta!!

The Advance website can be a real headache, right now I cannot switch from a PT Cruiser to a Reatta to find parts. The prices are great, the website sucks.

My bad.......It listed a mechanical fuel pump for engines that need them, the oil pump was of course already installed. The website lists all the additional parts and their warranty.

The install kit is basically everything else needed to swap an engine such as oil pump, radiator hoses, belts, etc, etc. My 97 F-150 and 89 Reatta are both over 250,000 miles, a prior Taurus was over 300,000. I typically change oil about every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, but they are easy miles with minimal stop and go traffic.(Only for warranty will the new engine get 3,000 mile changes)

My installer stated that while there are alot of quality rebuilt engines, there was also a lack of support when he had to do warranty work on them. The first thing I did when there was an issue was to pull the oil pan looking for Padgett cam bearings to no avail.

I lost oil pressure (measured directly on engine). I have a long commute and did not want to melt down where ever. Yes, I remember the transmission nightmare.

My 90's a/c vents are in the default mode (blowing thru only the defroster). I have vacuum to the controller but I have not checked the actual vacuum at the actuator. It's to the point where I feel the internal console door is stuck. I remembered old threads where people removed and replaced their console but nothing was noted about how the internal door froze. Before I get all upside down and in a convoluted position to look at the actuator I am wondering if manually positioning the door by pushing or pulling the vacuum actuator rod is a possibility. I guess the actual actuator could have a hole in it's rubber also. Thank you

For the curious...A Jasper engine for a 90 is $2,471 and the install kit is $394.41 (not including installation). Of course it can be done alot cheaper with a used or rebuilt engine. My convertible's interior and exterior are immaculate so for my situation I could justify the expense.