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'59 Fairlane 500


Guest CEGFairlane500

Lake pipes?   

5 members have voted

  1. 1. Should I or should I not go for lake pipes here?

    • Yes, a little flare never hurts.
      0
    • No, keep it classic.


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Guest CEGFairlane500

I'm new to the classic car world. This is my first baby. I am debating putting disc brakes on, but don't know which to choose. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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"I am debating putting disc brakes on it"

 

Why?    I had one of this model years ago and it was the first car I had with the low level brake pedal.  The brakes on it were impressive and are one of the main things I remember about the car (apart from the fact that some prick ran a red light and ran into the side of it).  

If the brakes on it aren't any good get a brake specialist to have a look at them.

I wouldn't bother with discs unless you are going to race it.  JMO

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Guest CEGFairlane500
1 hour ago, DavidAU said:

"I am debating putting disc brakes on it"

 

Why?    I had one of this model years ago and it was the first car I had with the low level brake pedal.  The brakes on it were impressive and are one of the main things I remember about the car (apart from the fact that some prick ran a red light and ran into the side of it).  

If the brakes on it aren't any good get a brake specialist to have a look at them.

I wouldn't bother with discs unless you are going to race it.  JMO

Thanks David. I just like to be able to stop quickly and right now it takes a bit of effort and pulls to the right when stopping abruptly. I might go the route of just having a brake specialist take a look first and see if maybe it'd be easier (and subsequently cheaper) to fix them than to upgrade them.

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Looks like a nice fairly original car that you don't see too many of today. Why fool with upgrades when the car will run fine IF you take the time and money to fix it correctly! If you want a new car, I would suggest that you should buy a new car!

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The original brakes were engineered for that car. the best advice is as stated above....keep the original setup. If you decide to alter them, you will only cause your money to go away faster with no better result.

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I agree with the above comments.  Leave it as it is.  Lake pipes were reserved for hot rods of the day.  A four door would never have lake pipes.  I would also keep the original drum brakes.  Properly serviced, they deliver great stopping power for the speeds you will be going.  Nice car.

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It's a common misconception that disc brakes make a car stop faster. They don't. Stopping distance is solely a function of tire friction on the pavement and the brakes' ability to work at the limit of that friction. Drums will lock up the wheels just as easily as discs, and at that point, that's as much braking force as you're going to get (please, no need for a digression on threshold breaking--I know the most effective stopping is at the verge of lock-up).

 

Disc brakes' primary advantage is their superior ability to shed heat quickly so they resist fade better. In the daily drive and the way we use our collector cars, it's rare that you will find the outer limits of even a mediocre braking system. If you live in the mountains, regularly tow trailers, or race the car, then yes, disc brakes can yield notable improvements in stopping performance, but that's only due to their better cooling. In fact, if you're running a manual brake setup, you'll probably find that the discs require considerably more effort than the drums, which are self-energizing by design.

 

I agree with the others that drum brakes in good order will deliver all the stopping power you're going to need in that car. The effort and the pulling are probably due to adjustment issues that any competent mechanic can resolve for pennies on the dollar compared to a disc brake conversion. Enjoy the car as it was--it's cheaper, just as effective, and you won't dilute the car's personality along the way. After all, isn't driving an old car about having something that, you know, drives like an old car?

 

Hope this helps!

Edited by Matt Harwood (see edit history)
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Well, let me take a different stance than all the above posters. I will say, right off, that most of my Studebakers are drum brakes, including those I have driven in everyday use. The only exceptions are the Studes that came stock with disc brakes (my '63 Lark and "64 Hawk). Drums are fine for me because I keep them in good shape and adjusted correctly. And I learned to drive on drum brake cars so I understand their limitations and idiosyncrasies.

 

But.........proper friction material is getting harder to find. You have to be much more choosey about where you get the shoes relined. The drums need to be in excellent shape, and if there are any signs the drums have been overheated and/or have hard spots, they should be turned or replaced. Cutting drums over the limit is a no-no. The shoes should be properly arced to the drums so there is full contact between the friction material and the drum. Of course, the wheel cylinders, master cylinder, brake hoses, and brake lines must be in excellent shape; replace if any questions about them. Make sure the brake springs are good; if new are available, replace them too. The brakes need to be properly adjusted; I have always used dirt roads to get the adjustments correct but they are harder to find these days, at least in my area. Drum brakes need somewhat more maintenance than disc systems, and need periodic adjustment if they are not self-adjusting systems.

 

Not sure how old you are, but if you grew up on power disc brakes you have to realize that drum brakes are a little different. Repeated hard stops will get them hot and decrease their stopping capability. Also they don't have anti-lock capabilities, so you have to modulate the pedal more instead of just stomping them to the floor.

 

In general, new cars with 4 wheel discs can stop quicker than older cars with drum brakes all around. Keep more distance between you and the new car in front of you. Anticipate a little more, watch ahead of you a little further. Are you going to use the car in everyday driving which will increase the probability of being affected by stupid drivers?

 

If you can do most all of the above, you should be fine with the drum brakes. If you can't, then seriously consider getting a front disc conversion. Discs won't cure stupid driving (by you or by others around you), but they are less problems to maintain, and there are more shops that can properly repair them if you can't do your own work.

 

Your car, your money, your decision. Just make the decision based on your situation and your abilities.

 

By the way, that is one sweet looking car!!

Edited by r1lark (see edit history)
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Guest CEGFairlane500

Thanks!! I think I'm just gonna have my trusted mechanic take a good look at them and help me decide if any pieces need replaced and definitely stay with drums. It is a daily driver (until the weather turns bad) and I do live in a city type environment so dumb drivers are EVERYWHERE here. I appreciate all the advice and past experience with the matter.

 

Im 36 and my first two cars were classics (a 65 mustang fastback and a 73 mustang convertible) but since then I'm used to the luxury of present day braking systems. I think once I get the brakes looked at and potentially repaired, I will be just fine.

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Just a note. You said it pulls to the right which means the left front brake is not working much. It will stop a lot better if the left front brake works!

 

What that also says is that the brake cylinders need a dismantle, clean and inspect. They may be OK, but probably need sleeving. If you can get away with a hone, you should obtain slightly oversize cups. So before you throw it all away and put in stuff you don't really need (and devalue the car), it will be a lot cheaper to fix what you have.

 

Remember you need to change the brake fluid every 3 years or so. It absorbs water, which causes brake fade when it vaporises in the cylinder under prolonged hard braking.

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