Bringing back an old motor

[Frantz]

54 Ford 239 OHV. Inspection sticker is '79 and the title I got was issued '79 so I think it was used as a DD to that point and then became a "someday project". I was told it did run about 15 years ago. Anyhow, I pulled the valve covers and they were pretty gunked up. I pulled the rocker shaft and push rods and cleaned them up. I cleaned the valve springs but left them in the head at this point. Motor spins freely. I plan to pull the distributor and run the pump by drill. I have been putting a little Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders each week. So far I guess I'm on the right track! Should I just do a high detergent 5-30 oil change or should I use a different product at first to try and free up the gunk? On the dip stick the oil is still liquid. I'm in no rush, I just want to see if I can get the motor running without a full rebuild at this point. Are there any other things I want to make sure to check before running oil through everything and eventually hooking up a battery?

[Owen_Dyneto]

I'd very strongly recommend that you remove the oil pan and clean both it and the oil pump intake screen before considering starting the engine.  And do it before you run the oil pump !  To not do so, even if you were to use a non-detergent oil for the initial start-up, is just begging for trouble down the line.

Edited May 17, 2016 by Owen_Dyneto (see edit history)

[FLYER15015]

X2 with Owen !!!!

[Spinneyhill]

5W-30 will wash out the gunk nicely. Change it after a short while, and perhaps again shortly after that. Don't go near non-detergent oil. Definitely clean out the sump first.

[Frantz]

Thanks folks. I was surprised to find my Ford dealer was able to get me the oil filters, so I had them bring in 6. I'll have to get the gasket down the street. Time to get dirty!

[Rusty_OToole]

Use ordinary motor oil. No flushing compound or solvent. I am opposed to washing loose a lot of dirt, sludge and grease and circulating it thru the motor where it can cause wear and gum up small passages. The Ford Y block is a patsy for this anyway, the oil passages that feed the rocker arms often get plugged up. Something to watch out for. OIl up the rocker arms, leave the valve covers loose and check a few minutes after starting for the first time. You should see oil oozing out around the rocker arms, it can take a few minutes to get up there but it should get there after a while.

 

I also agree with cleaning out the pan and the oil pump screen manually as well as the rocker covers.

 

It has probably used 10W30 all its life, that was the default selection of oil from the 50s to the 80s. Give it fresh oil and a filter, if it gets dirty change it after a thousand or 1500 miles then go to a regular 3000 mile schedule.

[Dave Henderson]

Back in the day, there was an aftermarket kit containing tubing and fittings sold that bypassed the clog prone area, which provided direct oiling to the rocker arm shafts.  Maybe they are still around.

[JACK M]

15 hours ago, Dave Henderson said:

Back in the day, there was an aftermarket kit containing tubing and fittings sold that bypassed the clog prone area, which provided direct oiling to the rocker arm shafts.  Maybe they are still around.

 

I remember those, If I am recalling correctly you had to notch the valve cover and run a piece of tubing to the rocker shaft. Probably got the oil from the sender area.

I always thought they were home made. But seeing several I guess it could have well been a kit.

 

One guy I used to run with would take an old burlap bag and soak it in oil and lay it on top of his rockers. It was his Saturday morning project.

Edited May 26, 2016 by JACK M (see edit history)