petelempert

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About petelempert

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  1. It's pretty over the top...but I like it. I'm thinking Bill Mitchell would have liked it too. In his later years, he got pretty over the top in his design choices. He'd probably slide into this rig wearing a matching pantsuit and smile. PRL
  2. Chrome it all. It looks bitchin. PRL
  3. Seafoam-Just a little more history on my harmonic balancer event. Turns out the balancer was fine, it literally just came loose. To your point (and luckily) I'd only been driving it around town when it started acting odd. The nut was not correctly torqued and it worked loose. One new nut/washer, some Locktite and 220lbs later it was solved. Also luckily, the nose of the crank was fine. One the road, this might have been a much bigger problem. PRL
  4. It's got to be some type of rigid early 60's ABS plastic. It's tough, has virtually no memory, can be brittle but responds to repair well. To fix a few holes in my console, I found "un-sell-abe"/free small chunks of plastic scattered on the floor from a parted out Riv at CTC Autoranch and used them. To repair I found the best way is: 1. Clean the damaged areas like crazy then abrade the surface for traction 2. Clamp in position to mend gaps/cracks. 3. Use fine grade fiberglass cloth/resin to patch from the reverse side. So, no real glue, rather I used the rising/fiber to bond the pieces. 4. In places (like the "ears" of the console) where there is missing material or lots of stress, reinforce with a thin piece of aluminum or galvanized tin. 5. Remove clamps and apply another layer of fiber/resin. 6. Use JB weld to fill cracks and gaps still visible on the outside facing surface then sand. 6. Surprisingly, I had better luck with conventional primers and paints versus the SEM products I thought would work. Not sure why, but the SEM took on a flat quality versus Rustoleum Satin which seems to match factory and is tough as hell. PRL
  5. If you can stand the chrome bill, splurge to have all the interior trim (headliner trim, B pillars etc) chromed. There might be some reflective issues and it might not be exactly factory, but IMHO the look is stunning. PRL
  6. That's the "well sorted part". I wouldn't drive any old car a long distance if it hadn't already proven itself. Half the "fully restored" cars I see overheat on the 5 mile ride to the weekend burger joint for the Saturday night cruise in. PRL
  7. I agree with Grimy. If you know your car, have some skills and are prepared for the unexpected...you could probably drive a first or second gen Riv around the planet. These cars were meant for the highway and exceeded the performance/capability of most 60's cars back in the day. When I was a kid, we used to drive from Long Island up to my grandparents in upstate NY in the summer. My first ever memory of a Riviera was seeing a black 65 whoosh past our station wagon carrying about 85 mph on the Tappan Zee bridge. Minutes later I saw it parked at a Howard Johnson's roadside restaurant in Sloatsburg. Soon after, the same 65 hauled past us again at about 90mph. Again, I soon saw it parked at the Hojo's beside the highway at Newburgh. This went on all the way north practically to Montreal. They passed us about ten times. I'm sure that driver was stopping for a smoke and a double bubble at every Hojo's up I-87. Each time I saw that Riv, it was steamrolling down the road passing everything else without even breaking a sweat. The biggest thing holding cars back in the 60's was tires and poor mileage. With modern radials and a credit card for gas, I'm thinking a well sorted Riv could go anywhere. My 63 really likes 65-70mph on the highway and seems in it's element. What kills me is the rock chips. That and the morons driving a clapped out Kia at 95mph, while talking on their phone and cutting me off on their sprint to the vape shop. PRL
  8. I think we'd need to know some additional details about your current brake set up to help with the fade problem. Is your system stock, modified, partially modified? In my experience, fade is usually brought on by heat from excessive use (race track conditions, pulling a trailer, extended downhill driving) rather than the "slow going" you refer to. I interpret "slow going" as traffic in hot weather which isn't ideal but shouldn't create enough heat to overtax/fade a healthy braking system. Give us some more details. PRL
  9. Gives the car a Hot Wheels look. It's your car and you should do whatever you want. That's what's so cool about the hobby. Some guys like'm to look original others like customs. Either way, it's all good. PRL
  10. Lake George in the summertime is heaven on earth. It's called the "Queen of the American Lakes" for a reason. That said, Lake George Village can be a little crowded and sort of honky tonk during the high season. Its all good clean fun though. If you go, make sure you do two things: 1. Take a ride on one of the Lake George Steamboats ( MinnieHaHa for a short ride, Mohican for a real tour of the 26 mile lake or Lac du San Sacrament in the evening) 2. Take a drive out of Lake George on the Beach Road and turn left and follow 9L. It's a scenic, very twisty road through wooded Adirondack country. Put your windows down and enjoy. PRL
  11. Yep. Dry roasted. Even looks like coffee. PRL
  12. KongaMan is right. It needs to be able to flex somewhat, especially where the middle section bends down to meet the speaker grill and directly behind the seats. The interior on my car was out when I rebuilt mine so I was able too test fit and resin coat it while sitting in the car. In my case, the corners were really damaged so I did a lot of fitting, adding and rebuilding. The original piece is really just cardboard so it does soak up resin or epoxy. I used a very fine grade (model grade) fiberglass cloth on the top and bottom. Finally, I experimented with the new vinyl covering. At first, I tried a thin layer (1/8") of foam between the rebuilt tray and the vinyl. It started to get lumpy in the hot Texas sun. I pulled it out and simply used contact cement to glue the vinyl directly to the tray and it's held up great. PRL
  13. Good replicas are elusive, most are just plain crappy. I rebuilt mine, fiber-glassed it then covered it with vinyl. In the corners, I had to add cardboard to make up for material lost to water/sun damage and time. Pieces were coming off and it was crumbly overall. It took a while and I felt like I was building a surfboard, but it's really the best way. PRL
  14. I think Vettes and Harley's have something in common. Lots of older guys buy one because they've always wanted one, they get one and don't use them much. It's a last grasp for virility before the walker is brought in. But, Vettes are hard to get in and out of and Harley's are tippy when you're old so they don't see much road time. Seems like half the gear heads I've met have one or the other sitting around their garage. If you want a babied C4 Vette or a Softail Classic with low miles you're in luck because there is one on every block. I don't doubt the high Vette survival rate. PRL
  15. I removed and re-installed the skins on my 63 right after I got it back from paint. I was really apprehensive, worried about getting the panel alignment back but mostly chipping the paint. It came out fine, but it's a little spooky handling those skins with new paint. I put painters tape along the edges and craft paper on the doors until I got them roughly in place. Also using a small dab putty to hold the t studs in place during handling was very helpful. PRL