petelempert

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About petelempert

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  1. The rear seat springs are made up as one frame piece that straddles the transmission hump. A few years back I had to repair the corners that had rusted on my 63 before re-upholstering. It happens from the rear window leaking, then the unpainted seat frame sits upon the wet carpet and rusts. I ended up combining my original frame with two others I found at CTC Auto Ranch to make one good one. Lots of cutting and welding. If you can find a dry, un-rusted one...you're lucky. PRL
  2. Robo Riviaro

    All joking aside, I have to admit I am strangely drawn to this machine. It's odd because I am mostly a "back to factory spec guy". I admire the moxie it takes to create something like this. There is a big difference between restoring an existing car and creating something totally new. When you go off the map with something like this, you start to appreciate the role of wheelbase, stance, proportion, design lines etc. in an effective design. Tying together two or even three distinct designs separated by decades makes this even more daunting. It ain't easy which may be the reason why this machine is unfinished. I've seen several hotrods that successfully blend pre war multi make elements but it's tougher to do with later cars. It occurred to me that many enthusiasts (like me) remember the original design of a coveted car from when they were young. We seek to restore and posses that original design in the current day. I remember the first time I saw a first gen Riviera as a kid during the late sixties in NY. From that moment I wanted one just like it. There is likely a whole generation of younger enthusiasts who don't remember these cars in their original era and therefore don't feel obligated or motivated to keep them original. No matter what, you've got to give the guy credit.
  3. Robo Riviaro

    Hey Winston...the guy selling this car is interested finding a really original 65 to re-start this project. I heard he's interested in buying yours. He's got some big ideas. Let the haunting begin. PRL
  4. Boldly do whatever you want to your Riv. It's your car. PRL
  5. Back from the dead

    Congrats. I love a happy ending. It looks great. PRL
  6. I don't think the body manual has trim locations noted. I could be wrong. Agree with KongaMan that getting behind the panels might be your best option. If they're welded, it's gonna be tough. Another option might be to get location information off another first gen Riv. It's a trick I learned about 30 years ago from this gnarled old goat of a body guy. Take a piece of cardboard and create a template using a body contour or shut line as a reference point. If you can establish a reference point off another car, you can then cut the cardboard to indicate where the script or trim piece appears, then apply/tape the template to your car. Then take the trim piece and apply a tiny dap of latex (water soluble) paint to the backside of the pins that hold the trim in place. Position the trim on the car using the cardboard template as a guide. It will leave paint dabs where the holes go. Then, use the paint dabs as your drilling location. I had to do that years ago on the decklid of a Mustang. When I did it, it was amazing how easy it was to re-drill the holes for the Mustang lettering. Why? Because the holes where exactly where the template told me they'd be...I was just drilling out Bondo that a previous owner had used to fill the holes. Good luck brother. PRL
  7. As I recall, there are two types of GM socks used on Rivs... both still available. One literally has a drawstring and the other has a fitted metal ring that slides onto the fuel line like the TS1000. That one should fit 63-5. To me, the TS is the way to go. String makes me nervous. PRL
  8. Not generally a fan of the idea. But to me if you got a set of vintage Marchal chrome fog lamps and mounted them up front it might convey some sixties upscale euro Alps apres ski vibe. Like something Honor Blackman aka "Pussy Galore" might have driven in Goldfinger. I'm just saying. PRL
  9. '65 Riv concept car

    Funeral home flower car? PRL
  10. I cut an antenna hole in my cover as follows: First, roll the whole cover out on the length of the drivers side only of the car and pull it taut across the front and rear bumpers, leaving it furled on the passenger side. Push the cover up against the antenna and mark the approximate hole position. Next, roll it over the front end of the car across both sides (passenger and drivers), keeping it furled and do the same. Finally, do the same procedure from the rear going forward. You'll end up with three dots in very close proximity. Punch the hole in the middle of all three marks. If you don't take three measurements, you'll end up with a cover that pulls one way or another. Take the "fabric donut" most covers include and glue it down with 3M 8008 weatherstrip adhesive. If you don't use the donut or glue that sucker down with something strong, you'll have a hole that tears and ruins the cover over time. One final OCD nerd trick...mark the front of the cover and sew a small amount of red ribbon on it...it'll help you find the starting point when you go to re-cover and prevent you from fumbling with a giant cover. PRL
  11. I keep my cars covered even though they are in a garage. Sometimes people come in and say "Isn't that sort of like wearing a belt and suspenders?". Its a matter of preference, but I've found that covers keep dust off, bugs/droppings from insects attracted to overhead lights in summer and mostly it's protection from the occasional "rub by" that happens when you're moving around the cars. It would be nice to have them uncovered so you can look at them, but I've found the benefits of protection outweigh the eye candy factor. They sort of look like big wrapped up xmas presents. But here's the thing: A old, dirty conventional cover can actually attract dirt and leave your car dirty and dusty. I would cover my car, them spend a long time dusting it off after I removed the cover. The older my conventional cover got, I felt like I was putting dirty clothes on after taking a shower. I found a product called a "Dust Top" from California Car cover. It's an indoor only cover, but it seems too magically prevent the dust from laying up on the car. Also, it's light and much easier to put on versus the dirty, heavy old cotton ones I used to use. I also been told that a heavy, old style cover with a lot of accumulated dirt can actually harm a paint job. Am I being sort of fussy? Yeah. Are "Dust Tops" sort of pricey? Yeah, but they sure do a great job. PRL
  12. Suggest Eastwood spray enamel. Either "Cast Steel Gray" or "Detail Gray". PRL
  13. Star Wars air cleaner. Suicide ball on the shifter. Municipal bus bumpers. The good, the bad and the ugly. PRL
  14. For me, it's got too much "bustle" in the area behind the rear seats. That said, it appeared to be very well built and not an easy job. It's a matter of personal taste. Without a roof, the real large size of the second gen car is accentuated. In person, this is a big open car. I just hope the doors still open after a few years. PRL
  15. I'm pretty sure the trim rings on my 72 442 are stainless. They look chrome, but up close they have a very mild brushed look. They are 14's so they wouldn't fit my Riv. Good point about the scratches. PRL