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About petelempert

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  1. petelempert

    65 GS on BAT today

    It sold for $59K. I'm guessing those gauges will come off pretty soon. Regardless, thats really good money for a first gen Riv. Market is finally starting to show some respect. PRL
  2. Check out Bring a Trailer website today. Verde green 65 GS is the top listing and has got everyone talking. It's a beautiful Riv, currently at $35K and closes today. Its an interesting bellwether for our hobby since BAT is a broader orbit for automotive enthusiasts. PRL
  3. While you are trying out potions to stop the clatter, consider Rislone. It's an old school zinc additive. Back when I first got my 63, it had been sitting for years and made lot of tappet noise once I got it running. The Rislone actually did seem to quiet my old clapped out motor. Not even sure why. Maybe it was just the motor getting loose again and there Rislone had nothing to do with it. Regardless, I heard about it years ago from an old mechanic named Bill who taught me some good and bad habits. I think a lot of these additives are worth a try only because you are probably living on borrowed time on your motor anyway. I would have tried pouring bourbon in the motor if I thought it might help. I poured bourbon in myself instead and that definitely helped. On a brighter note, you might actually have an exhaust leak at the manifold. Lots of times, a small leak will trick you into thinking its a bad lifter. Same habit of ticking or being noisy at start up then quieting down after a few minutes. With a cracked/leaking manifold, you'll have similar noise until the metal expands and essentially closes the leak enough to conceal the sound. PRL
  4. petelempert

    The 1970 Buick Riviera

    Just like that Bernie...only his was brown. PRL
  5. petelempert

    The 1970 Buick Riviera

    Seems like the 70 model never got the love and respect of other years. Tell you what... ahigh school friend of mine inherited his Grandfathers 70 Riv and that car would smoke the tires off the line like a nitro methane dragster. PRL
  6. Mine was the most jacked up glovebox door in the history of all Rivieras when I got my car. Now it closes and opens like a well oiled switchblade. Seriously, it snaps open/shut with authority and lines up really well. Here's what I did: First, pulled the door off to inspect for damaged hinges/latches as mentioned previously. Second, put it back on (still jacked up) and lubed it well at all contact points. Third, loosened all contact points to hand tight status. Fourth, gently pushed the door to the closed position and lined it up so it's flush with the rest of the dash (if it won't fit right at this stage, you probably have a warpage or serous hinge issue). Fifth, take a strip of blue painter tape and run it across the top of the door pinning it to the dash. Finally, gingerly pry it open using thin wood strips (like popsicle sticks), don't let it snap up, once it's reached open position tighten all screws and enjoy. PRL
  7. Does it "whistle down slowly" when you shut it off? If so, my guess is brake booster or something in the brake vacuum system has a slight leak. PRL
  8. There are a couple of places (check Hemmings) that will rebuild them. Centerville Auto Repair helped me with a new bolt and washer for mine. I initially thought my balancer was bad, turned out it was loose, moving around the nose of the crank. I lucked out. The guy at CAR definitely knows his way around a nailhead. I've heard its often a good idea to rebuild the stock part that came with the motor from the factory if possible rather than use a replacement. Its all about the correct balance for the individual motor. PRL
  9. The Dynaflow is really a mindset. No doubt the later transmissions are more aggressive off the line and have crisper shifts. But, when you ease out of the driveway with a Dynaflow, it's sublime. Old school smooth. Seamless. Relax, enjoy the ride. They are hard to break if maintained. As others have noted, it is also kind of cool to nail the gas on an expressway entrance ramp and go past 100 mph without feeling a shift. PRL
  10. Check with CTC Auto Ranch in Denton, Texas. I go up there a lot and last I recall, there are still a few first gen Rivs with nice trim attached. Ask for Dave or Alan. PRL
  11. petelempert

    65 Riviera Lighting failure

    I had a similar problem with a 72 Cutlass. Failed headlight dimmer switch on the floor. Lots of power going through that switch. Worth considering. PRL
  12. petelempert

    Extra holes below rear window

    My guess...aftermarket vinyl top installed right over the ribbed molding years ago. Vinyl long gone, ribbed molding and holes remain. Stranger things have happened. PRL
  13. petelempert


    Agree with RivNut. You are way better off getting a good upholstery shop to fix/re-cover what you've got. You probably won't find that seat cover reproduced and any original one you find will be aged. A really skilled shop can take off the seat cover, remove the damaged panels and re-stitch in new material. If it's all too far gone, an entirely new cover might be your best option. Its all about the skills of the upholsterer and their ability to find matching material. I've got a guy here is Dallas who has done it for me a few times. Most modern cars have a large bolster at thigh level that gets worn way before the rest of the seat. My guy makes a living fixing the bolster on modern cars (particularly SUVs) where the leather bolster gets ruined but the rest if the seats are fine. A good upholstery shop is a godsend. Seems like the most talented upholsters are a little kooky...maybe to much time around adhesive. Anyway, good luck. PRL
  14. For paint on my wheel, I used Rustoleum Auto primer (flat black) then Rustoleum satin black for final coats. IMHO its the perfect interior black (not too shiny and not too flat). Also it's in the rattle can section of any hardware store. One week in-between final coats at room temp for complete cure...any sooner and you are tempting fate with the paint crinkling in places...something about the active curing ingredient. No clear coat at all. Its tough as nails. PRL BTW-Do yourself a favor and build a small rig where you can bolt the wheel to something that allows it to spin. I used one of those stolen square rigid plastic milk cartons holders that you find behind very 7-11. It will allow you to hold the wheel firm while grinding and really helps when painting. Doing the job with the wheel loose on a bench is madness.
  15. Seafoam...why such a JB Weld hater? I love that stuff. I'm sure there are specific "steering wheel products" but their base elements are...two part epoxy. I've seen the steering wheel repair kits for $100 bucks at Eastwood and elsewhere. Basically, you get a little paper mixing cup, a popsicle stick, some instructions and two tubes of... two part epoxy. I'm a big JB fan. Five years later, my wheel is still holding up really well. Ironically, the only flaw in the wheel is wheel is where I used a two stick (putty sticks-not in a tube) epoxy product made by Loctite. Back when I repaired my wheel, I used JB on all of it except a deeper flaw that I figured the Loctite putty formula might work better. Mistake. If I could do it all again, I'd go JB all the way. Also as I age personally, I am considering applying JB Weld to some of my own aching joints and bones. PRL