• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

39 Excellent

About petelempert

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  1. Performance issues aside, the dual master cylinder is certainly a safety modification worth considering. But, do what you want with your brakes and be happy about it. Lots of opinions, but yours is the only one that matters. Don't let anyone stop you (ha...get it?) from doing what you like to your car. PRL
  2. I got the low-down on screw position when I was a kid working at an Exxon station in high school. "Old Bill" was the senior mechanic and insisted that everything we touched had: slot head screws at a 45 degree angle to encourage drainage (oil or water) if present and phillips heads also at a 45 an X for the same reason. Old Bill was probably the best mechanic I've ever met. In his toolbox he had a stick with a suction cup on the end that he used to listen to a motor. With it, he could spot any problem like a doctor with a stethoscope. Bill was in his late seventies when I worked for him. He was a machinist in WW2 on a destroyer that got torpedoed in the Bungo Strait and Old Bill (young Bill at the time) floated in a oil slick for two days. Every day when we'd wash up after work he'd joke that "he just couldn't see to get away from dirty oil". He left a big impression on me. PRL
  3. I went with the Dashtop option on my 63. It looks and performs great. Nothing against JustDashes...they just rebuilt an entire dashpad for a 77 Pontiac Can Am I am restoring and their work is phenomenal. Its expensive but worth it in most cases. For my 63 though, the Dashtop option is really solid. When I first got it, I thought I'd install it for now and later have the thing done by JustDashes at triple the cost. Now, I drive down the road, glance at my Dashtop, marvel at how good it looks and contemplate how I'll send the money I saved. PRL
  4. Not sure I'd go with a "famous shop". IMHO, most of the reality show restoration shops seem to have moved their core emphasis from restoration to self promotion. It seems they select their projects more based upon the TV value and less on the merits of meat and potatoes restoration work. Of course they may still do plenty of that work, but since it doesn't make good TV, we don't see much of it. Overall, I can't help but feel that the quality of works suffers and the focus veers away towards promotion, fame wealth etc. If I needed a solid place to bring a really nice Riv for some selective improvement, I'd take a long look at a copy of Hemmings, select a few shops that advertise, call them, interview them and ultimately visit each. From there, I'm guessing you could find a reputable shop where your car would get the attention it deserves without all the drama. PRL
  5. I'v never heard of a shop that specializes in first gen...or any Rivs really. As noted earlier, there are lots of shops that specialize in Mustang, Camaro, Vette etc. Riv's are just a different animal and don't have nearly the same fan base. This is reinforced by the relatively low number of reproduction parts out there for Rivs. My guess is that you wanted a really legit restoration, you'd have to find a shop that has very high standards and delivers that quality regardless of the make or model. If you can't fix it yourself or serve as your own general contractor to source work, be prepared to pay dearly for a high quality shop to "get it right" on a Riv. PRL
  6. I dunno. It's sort of an odd concept. I get what they were trying to say, but without wheels, front end etc...this looks like some interstellar, car wreck acid trip. I like how the passenger is looking out the window and down...."Look honey, I can see Uranus. Hope my hat doesn't blow off. Can I have another acid tab please? How is this thing flying without a motor? PRL
  7. Too much Sawzall. Too much time. PRL
  8. Check out ROA forum information from May 2011 and you'll find info on this topic. Memory here is a little foggy, but here goes: All GM prior to 65 used sender units with resistance of 0-30. In 65 they switched to 0-90. Obviously the gauges changed at the same time to reflect the resistance. You might be using the wrong unit. My guess is you've got a ground problem. On 63-4 the ground is actually the tank straps. Not sure on a 65, but I bet it's the same. You could test this theory by creating a new ground off the sender and running it to a clean spot on the frame. PRL
  9. IMHO, the gold car is a honey...but not a true "time capsule". To me, it's a really nice survivor class car with one repaint. I think of a time capsule car as one of these nutty rigs you see on Barrett Jackson where somebody put the car in a bag, then in a garage for 40 years. Just saw a 79 Trans Am with under 300 miles listed. That's a time capsule. Not sure if I'd want something like that anyway. Can't be good for the machine to sit that long and you'd never want to drive it anyway for fear of loading miles on it. In the case of the gold car, I think it's got a bigger problem: Not totally original, a little worn in areas and not very sexy. There...I said it. Not trashing it because I really think it's a sweet car. If it was a Vette, Challenger, Mach One or something like that, people will pay huge dollars for this level of relative originality. Unfortunately, our model/marque doesn't command big dollars unless it's unbelievably mostly original in fanatically good condition (like Winston's), restored to the max in factory configuration or maybe restomoded out the wazoo. I really nice Riv with earth tones, some wear areas and wheel covers is easily confused with Grandma's car to most big buck spenders. PRL
  10. George-Your construction is jaw dropping. While we are all complaining about the cost of stick frame buildings and tin sheds, you my friend have built the replacement for the NORAD complex at Cheyenne Mountain. If Trump keeps throwing Tomahawks and it gets crazy, you are safe. PRL
  11. I'm sure glad I got a mid model car because I really need that 140mph speedo. Otherwise I'd always be wrapping the needle back around and just guessing at anything over 120. PRL
  12. This post really got me thinking. It's relevant to every car guy. Wouldn't it be great to have a huge space to stash all your treasures? One that is close, secure, affordable, has room to work and maybe even is a cool place to hang out. I know a lot of car guys and their garage/stash take all forms but there is one thing they all have in common. I've noticed a rule...I call it the rule of 30. Here's what I mean: I've got a friend with some really cool vintage Fords all cooped up in small garage behind his house. It takes him about 30 minutes to unpack stuff so he can reach his cars. Another friend has the most well outfitted garage set up you've ever seen stuffed with the best tools and cars ever. He needs about 30 more square feet. There's a guy who keeps all his cars and tools at an airplane hanger. It's located about 30 minutes too far from his home. One guy I know has a huge urban industrial garage in downtown Dallas. At night, crime is crazy down there so he spent about 30K on security measures. Down the street from me is a older guy who finally built the garage he always wanted and outfitted it for storage and do it yourself restoration. He told me he has arthritis, doesn't like to wrench like he used to and should have built his garage 30 years ago. Another dude I met at a show let me tour his ultra slick garage that looks like a nightclub. He paid about 30K too much for paint, mirrors and fancy lights in his garage. On and on. I'm telling's all about 30. Like Jason said earlier, if you've got a roof over your head and your car, you're luckier than most. PRL
  13. Bought my house with an existing two car detached garage/side shop combo. Loved the house the minute I saw it, but nearly fainted when I saw the garage. Detached is important. Buddy of mine built his drive in basement dream garage under his dream house on a hill in Atlanta. His entire family hates the sound, vibration, smell and late hours of his car hobby. Not good. Anyway, bought mine specifically for the separation. House and garage were built in 1920 so walls of entire garage are wooden 6" shiplap pine. Kinda of nautical, like being inside some big ship. Garage has upstairs man cave area with bathroom. Cars were smaller in 1920 and my hobby was growing so I expanded. Built back so now have space for 4 cars parked 2 deep. Found reclaimed shiplap lumber and lined walls so it looks like it was always there. Ten years ago I dug out a 12x3' pit, lined it with cinder block and drain so I can get under cars. Also now have 2 small shop areas. Window unit AC/ Heat throughout, wired for 220 and TV ever. Usually, I have three cars inside. My daily driver and wife's car are outside. Also have a few trash picked easy chairs set up inside for hanging out. Its often the location for buddies to come over for a few beers, a cigar, music and conversation. IMHO, having my cars and garage close to home is really important. There is a big difference between telling your wife you are going out to the garage for a few hours versus telling her you are driving someplace else to do it. Nothing is better than working in the garage as long as you want, then simply shutting everything down and walking to the house. I certainly could use more space, but like everything else, you've got to be happy with what you've got. I know a lot of guys who literally have no place to go simply to be a guy and do guy stuff. I love my garage and can't imagine life without it. PRL
  14. Mine were overstuffed too. Without the fronts seat in, I learned a little trick: Grab the back edge of the seat with your right hand. Make sure you are lined up. Lodge your right foot against the depression in the floor just before the location for the front seat. Take your left hand and grab the front edge of the seat while pressing your left knee against the front edge of the seat. Lean into the seat, pressing your weight into it and shove it in. Your weight and pushing is actually slightly bending the seat frame, but it will spring back. You'll feel it sink into place enough, push down further locking it against the floor hooks, then let it ease back locking itself in place. It is an effective form of erotic automotive ballet. It's all in the shove. Be firm, but careful. I know you Adrian, you can do it. I also suggest two fingers of Blanton's just prior to help get you in the mood. PRL
  15. I think you've got to take an appraiser's POV with a grain of salt. It's just his opinion. His advice on certain detail points might be helpful (like the sills and the upholstery) in terms of his ability to sell the car but really it's up to you to decide if you want to heed his particular advice. From there, it's just a matter of taste. Some people want the showroom stock look, others want something more resto mod. If your car is someplace in between, so what. I think you shouldn't lament any decisions you've made and not worry too much about what the appraiser says. I would only change something if you specifically think it will yield you more profit and it's an easy fix. Fine, buy some new rocker sill covers. If you want to sell your car, find somebody out there will love it as much as you did. If you don't get as much as you'd like, consider the value of the experience you had working on it and worry less about the money. PRL