petelempert

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About petelempert

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  1. petelempert

    Need Car Cover Advice

    For what its worth, I've had good luck with a Dust Top car cover from California Car Covers. It's a hybrid material for indoor use. It's light and fits well on my 63 once I cut out the antenna hole. No mirror pockets. Soft on the inside. Spendy...about $245 as I recall. In Texas, my big issue was dust. The older my car covers got, they became dust magnets and packed lots of static. The Dust Top cured the problem. PRL
  2. This is what's weird about our hobby. I spent countless hours researching and even trying used tanks. Then I spent countless hours researching custom tanks. Then I spent countless hours seeking substitute reproduction tanks and found a Tempest one from Quanta that would fit. Then I spent countless hours figuring out how to retrofit the sender hole and filler neck. Then I spent countless hours welding on the sender hole and filler neck from an old Riv tank. Now Seafoam is gonna order one in a box and bolt it right up in the Fall. It's the countless hours. I'm just saying. PRL
  3. petelempert

    63 silver headliner

    I got mine from Clarks about 2 years ago. It's beautiful. PRL
  4. Surfgeek-All the advice listed above is dead on. The practical aspects of owning a vintage car are very real and deserve careful consideration. That's the practical, let me tell you about the magic. There is nothing like driving a vintage car, especially one as unique as a Riv. The sound, the smell and the visceral experience can be intoxicating. Once you own one, your perspective about driving is forever altered. Any old car is sort of a trip back in time, but not all cars are equal. Go for it! PRL
  5. petelempert

    Juniors vs. Seniors

    The number of posts might elevate your "classification" on the forum, but doesn't always correlate directly to elevated knowledge, wisdom or expertise. Just saying. PRL
  6. I'm with Konga, if your engine is running fine (good compression etc) you don't need to add anything. IMHO, Seafoam and MMO should only be considered for an engine with a condition (like a noisy lifter or has been siting for a long time) that you are willing to experiment with a remedy as a prelude to committing to a rebuild. PRL
  7. petelempert

    Carb Rebuild Woes

    Beemon: How does the cat food figure into the carb rebuild? Just curious. PRL
  8. I had the same problem. Dirt. I'm agreeing with the posts above. Makes the jets and floats stick. Easy test...Try rigging up a fuel line to a jerry can of gas. Disconnect all fuel lines from the carb. Blow out the carb with air and carb cleaner. Hook the carb up to the jerry can. Put the jerry can up high so gravity pushes fuel to the carb. Let it run for a while. In my case, it ran great like this. As soon as I hooked back up to the conventional lines, it ran like crap. I also had the thought provoking fuel fountain spilling gas all over the engine. No smoking please. Worked for me. Worth a try. PRL
  9. petelempert

    What came loose?

    From the sound of things, your motor is probably fine. It's amazing what a difference that thick washer can make. The washer took most of the brunt of the damage in my case. The universal plate I mentioned is probably better described as a pulley holder. I bought one of the OTC Stinger products (on Amazon, Summit etc.) but instead ended up using a plate type (an old friend I bought years ago at Jegs) with more hole options. Lots of guys make these out of scrap steel, pipes and I've even heard of some guys making them out of hardwood. Just find the right bolt hole configuration, bolt the plate to the balancer, put a 1/2 drive with a long handle in the square hole, gently turn the assembly with a breaker bar slowly, let it roll around so the 1/2 handle is pinned to either the floor or the frame. It won't let the motor turn. Then get out your new bad assed 250LB torque wrench and tighten to spec. I did mine without a lift. I did have to remove the fan shroud and upper/lower hoses. Without a lift, you'll need to twist the nut to 220 from the top to get leverage. Good luck. PRL
  10. petelempert

    What came loose?

    I just went through this about two years ago. In my case, I lucked out because the harmonic balancer was working its way loose and I caught it early. I now know that a slight chirp is an early indicator of such a problem and can be heard before you notice any wobble in the pulleys. I kept looking for the source of the chirping noise thinking maybe it was the compressor. Pretty soon I noticed a wobble and the motor ran horribly under a load. The Nailhead Shop in CA is the best source for parts. I suggest getting a new nut and washer spec'd specifically for a Nailhead which they sell. Also, make sure you clean the nose of the crank, inspect for buggered threads and the keyway must be clean and the key cannot be chewed up. If you don't have a torque wrench that will do 220, get one and don't try to use a cheater bar or a pipe to get leverage because that will mess with the actual torque delivered. You'll need a universal crankshaft plate so you can keep the torque (at 220) from actually spinning the motor while you are tightening. The plate basically bolts to the balancer, gets braced against something solid like the frame and allows you to tighten up to 220. I've since heard that bad mechanics don't use one, simply tightening the nut until the motor spins and quit. That's why they come loose. 220 is more than most mechanics know to torque the nut...so they don't. Last, I suggest using (very sparingly) some Loctite. Some say green, some say red...either way you'll probably need heat to get it off again if you ever need to if you use Loctite. PRL
  11. The welds on this project are straight up porn. Gorgeous. Regarding originality, if it makes the owner happy, it can't be that bad. Hope they adjust the firewall fabrication so it isn't literally touching the bell housing. PRL
  12. As far as I know, there never was one from the factory on a first gen Riv.Lots of posts over the years about this topic. One of the biggest issues is the placement on the door. Specifically, the place on the door that looks right from the outside is virtually useless as a mirror for the inside. Its all about the combination of seating position, placement on the outside of the door and sightline interruption of the A pillar. PRL
  13. petelempert

    Interior/exterior

    Sometimes you find a really good car in a really bad color. Bad is subjective, but that's what happened to me. Since I was planning a full restoration anyway, I elected to do it in a combination I like. I re-did a light blue/teal car to a silver/black car using all factory codes and materials. It makes me happy and I think it would sell better, if I ever did sell it. It's your car, make it a color combination you like. "If it makes you happy, it can't be that bad". PRL
  14. Seems like the new radio installation might be a clue to finding the electrical boogeyman. Just so I understand...Does the stop/start lack of acceleration occur without the radio on? Have you tried pulling all the power off the radio and seeing if it still happens? PRL
  15. I think the reason virtually all modern cars have brake lights regardless of ignition situation is for safety. If the car is in-op, malfunctioning or not running (for whatever reason) the driver can still alert others around that he is stopping/stopped and therefore they should take notice. The logic gap with the 63 is odd. If you followed the reasoning that you didn't brake lights when the car isn't running...why would the other lights (headlights, tail lights) still function when the car isn't running? More than anything, it's sort of annoying. When I get in my 63 to start it up, I habitually tap the brakes...looking to see the red glow and nothing happens until I hit the ignition. It always makes me think for a second that my brake lights are out. PRL