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About petelempert

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  1. What came loose?

    From the sound of things, your motor is probably fine. It's amazing what a difference that thick washer can make. The washer took most of the brunt of the damage in my case. The universal plate I mentioned is probably better described as a pulley holder. I bought one of the OTC Stinger products (on Amazon, Summit etc.) but instead ended up using a plate type (an old friend I bought years ago at Jegs) with more hole options. Lots of guys make these out of scrap steel, pipes and I've even heard of some guys making them out of hardwood. Just find the right bolt hole configuration, bolt the plate to the balancer, put a 1/2 drive with a long handle in the square hole, gently turn the assembly with a breaker bar slowly, let it roll around so the 1/2 handle is pinned to either the floor or the frame. It won't let the motor turn. Then get out your new bad assed 250LB torque wrench and tighten to spec. I did mine without a lift. I did have to remove the fan shroud and upper/lower hoses. Without a lift, you'll need to twist the nut to 220 from the top to get leverage. Good luck. PRL
  2. What came loose?

    I just went through this about two years ago. In my case, I lucked out because the harmonic balancer was working its way loose and I caught it early. I now know that a slight chirp is an early indicator of such a problem and can be heard before you notice any wobble in the pulleys. I kept looking for the source of the chirping noise thinking maybe it was the compressor. Pretty soon I noticed a wobble and the motor ran horribly under a load. The Nailhead Shop in CA is the best source for parts. I suggest getting a new nut and washer spec'd specifically for a Nailhead which they sell. Also, make sure you clean the nose of the crank, inspect for buggered threads and the keyway must be clean and the key cannot be chewed up. If you don't have a torque wrench that will do 220, get one and don't try to use a cheater bar or a pipe to get leverage because that will mess with the actual torque delivered. You'll need a universal crankshaft plate so you can keep the torque (at 220) from actually spinning the motor while you are tightening. The plate basically bolts to the balancer, gets braced against something solid like the frame and allows you to tighten up to 220. I've since heard that bad mechanics don't use one, simply tightening the nut until the motor spins and quit. That's why they come loose. 220 is more than most mechanics know to torque the they don't. Last, I suggest using (very sparingly) some Loctite. Some say green, some say red...either way you'll probably need heat to get it off again if you ever need to if you use Loctite. PRL
  3. The welds on this project are straight up porn. Gorgeous. Regarding originality, if it makes the owner happy, it can't be that bad. Hope they adjust the firewall fabrication so it isn't literally touching the bell housing. PRL
  4. As far as I know, there never was one from the factory on a first gen Riv.Lots of posts over the years about this topic. One of the biggest issues is the placement on the door. Specifically, the place on the door that looks right from the outside is virtually useless as a mirror for the inside. Its all about the combination of seating position, placement on the outside of the door and sightline interruption of the A pillar. PRL
  5. Interior/exterior

    Sometimes you find a really good car in a really bad color. Bad is subjective, but that's what happened to me. Since I was planning a full restoration anyway, I elected to do it in a combination I like. I re-did a light blue/teal car to a silver/black car using all factory codes and materials. It makes me happy and I think it would sell better, if I ever did sell it. It's your car, make it a color combination you like. "If it makes you happy, it can't be that bad". PRL
  6. Seems like the new radio installation might be a clue to finding the electrical boogeyman. Just so I understand...Does the stop/start lack of acceleration occur without the radio on? Have you tried pulling all the power off the radio and seeing if it still happens? PRL
  7. I think the reason virtually all modern cars have brake lights regardless of ignition situation is for safety. If the car is in-op, malfunctioning or not running (for whatever reason) the driver can still alert others around that he is stopping/stopped and therefore they should take notice. The logic gap with the 63 is odd. If you followed the reasoning that you didn't brake lights when the car isn't running...why would the other lights (headlights, tail lights) still function when the car isn't running? More than anything, it's sort of annoying. When I get in my 63 to start it up, I habitually tap the brakes...looking to see the red glow and nothing happens until I hit the ignition. It always makes me think for a second that my brake lights are out. PRL
  8. No ignition, no brake lights on a 63. Don't know if it was common for all cars of the era, but it has always seemed like a major engineering oversight...and a dangerous one at that. PRL
  9. I'm thinking the guy who bought the $100K plus 65 GS at Barrett had dirty fingernails...dirty green fingernails. Whatever, I'll wager the number of first get Rivs at next years Barrett will be 2x whatever it was this year. PRL
  10. Barrett is the ultimate in automotive hyperbole. All of it...every single bit is exaggerated for showmanship. You've got to assume that. But big picture, a Riv selling for that kind of money could have an effect on our hobby. PRL
  11. This is good news, for the most part, for all of us boys! It means first gen cars are on their way up. By association, probably all Rivs will also see an increase in value. For better or worse, Barrett is a barometer for the market. Everybody who has a Riv, likes them or has considered someday buying one will see this. Importantly, people who never knew much about Rivs will see this. IMHO, Rivs have been undervalued for years relative to other American classics. I've often wondered if it's because Rivs are sort of a "tweener"...between pure luxury like a Cadillac and pure muscle like a Chevelle. Who knows? Also, this sale seems to reinforce the power of selling a very red car, with clam shell headlights and a GS badge. PRL
  12. Painted drums

    I'm guilty. I put newer road wheels on my 63 and the unpainted drums looked like tin pie plates peeking out. It was killing me. Looked like a mistake. Out came the Rustoleum satin black. No regrets. No heat issue. It's not like I'm heating up the drums running on the Nurburgring or down hill on Pikes Peak. PRL
  13. Door Skin alignment

    Welcome to the dark arts of first gen door skin repair. I put my skins on after mounting the door inner doors though I've heard of people doing it Zimm63's method. You really have three forms of alignment: the inner door at the hinges, the skins can be manipulated through the t bolts and also the fender. I never had to mess with the fender, but the hinge and t-bolts took a lot of patience. My biggest squawk was the skins tended to "bow-out" in the middle rather than at the shut-lines. Sort of a surprise since I would have expected them to sag low along the bottom edge of the inner door. Solved it by getting a buddy to press his weight against the middle while I tightened the middle t bolts front and back. Patience my friend. Also, walk away for a while and come back later if it starts to piss you off. PRL
  14. Finding a salvage yard that will cut out that section out will be expensive and might even prove difficult to find a decent panel. If you are up for it, I'd buy a small slip roll (like a Baileigh hand crank unit for around $200 bucks), form the two pieces, then MIG it in. If you MIG it, careful with heat back there or the metal warpage will mess with the fit of the trunk lid. I've also seen guys who could form that contour by hammering sheetmetal around a pipe. I just finished a bunch of sheet metal work like this. It's not as easy as it looks on TV, but with patience, it can turn out really well. It's very rewarding work. A cheap body shop will weld anything in and shovel Bondo in to hide it. Do it yourself and you'll get it done right. Go for it. PRL
  15. 63-64 wheel colors

    I checked the chassis suggests a paint shade called "Cantbeseen". PRL