Paul Bohlig

i put the same unit in my '28 Std. 6 and it really makes a big improvement as you experienced. Definitely need to match the coil to the electronic ignition. There are timing marks. See page 47 of repro owners manual available from Myers and others. By the starter there is an elliptical cover near the flywheel housing. Open it and slowing have an assistant turn the engine until you see the marks. Use a strong flashlight. On mine someone put white paint so easier to see. But they are there. You can use a modern 12V timing light using your modern car as the source of power and your 6 V DB for connections to the distributor. Times similar to a modern car. That way you do not need to advance on column. Can play around by ear under very slow idle of carb. Paul Bohlig Dallas, TX area

phone #: 214 208 0272 CDT Paul Bohlig paulmarg@gmail.com

For sale.1928 Dodge Std. 6. Old age mandates sale. Dallas TX area. $ 12,500.

Looks like a good winter challenge. Try Myers Early Dodge (Michigan) and Romar Dodge (Pennsylvania) Myers has a one volume CD put together by John B. It is for the Victory 6 but includes many models from 1928. The Dodge Brother Club sells a 3 or 4 CD of back issues of the DBC News which is searchable. Seems you are on the right tack to clean the gas tank and have the radiator flushed. Good luck. Paul

Buy John B's cd from Myers Early Dodge.

I would buy the DBC cd's of club news as well as John Bittence's cd on the Victory. Realize you have Std.6 but a lot of info on the Victory also includes the other '28 models. The DBC News on CD is somewhat searchable and covers 30 years plus or minus. I think the Victory CD is sold by Myers?

You can buy a 6 or 12 v replacement electric motor on the Model T or Model A sites for a lot less. Try Little Dearborn, Minneapolis or Synder. On my DB '28 Std. 6 the holes through the windshield lined up perfectly. Of course the 6 v was positive ground and the 12 v a negative ground so you have to get that lined up! Paul

I thought keyways sheered at the key way and the axle. So, the key way would be found one half in the axle shaft and one half in the wheel. My limited experience, thankfully, is when the key way sheers; you put the car in gear and nothing happens. Take off the hub caps and the shaft spins in the wheel with the broken keyway because the key way no longer holds them together. Agree, they were available earlier but not certain I would use a used one on my car. Paul Dallas, TX area

How about a Hollander on tie rod ends. Mine is a '28 DB Std. 6 I think it is hopeless given nearly 90 years and the number of changes made. Thanks Paul Dallas TX area

I up graded to Windows 10 and cannot get the DBC News back issues on CD's to run. Anyone else with this problem? A solution? Originally they needed windows 95; which is obviously several generations ago. Thanks. Paul

The other method people recommend is to put all the tires on the vehicle. Remove hub caps. Then loosen, let's say, driver front nut until a quarter inch or so shows between hub and nut. Do not remove nut completely. Then drive or pull car very slowly and turn the steering wheel as much as possible toward and away from the wheel you what to break loose. Since it is tapered if enough shaking goes on it will break free. Just a thought. Paul

Mark each window frame at bottom of window with drivers front, rear etc. Also label, inside and outside of window . Take pics. When I had mine done they reversed several windows in the metal bottom riser and had to redo. Let them do it as they have the tools to remove the old rubber and replace with new. Paul

Try Romardb.com They rebuild vacuum tanks. Also sell gaskets, springs, etc. Join DB club and buy Stewart vacuum tank rebuild, reprints articles. Also, consider converting to an electric pump and regulator. Purists don't like it and if you have leaks with vacuum tank lines, fittings, etc. you will probably have them with an electric setup. Paul

Agree, time to give it a rest. The king pins are probably a must do soon so it does not drive like a circus car! The transmission issue could be: 1. These did not have synchromesh so need to double clutch to slow down the engine to get the transmission to shift. 2. The clutch may not disengage. Push clutch pedal in and put a block of wood on the fire wall side to hold the clutch pedal fully disengaged. If still grinding probably need to adjust clutch per instructions. Buy reprint manuals and John B's Vic 6 CD. Understand you have a '26 but still a lot of practical advice. For example, toe in and steering adjustment after king pins. Tie rod ends are not available but if everything else adjusted may not make as much difference.

Myers Early Dodge parts sells the same thing for $ 25