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About Bloo

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  1. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Thanks! I followed that to an auction and there were several more pictures. Look at how much taller the metal part looks than edinmass's K-7. Apparently they accommodated the longer (hotter) insulator that way. Larry: here's the tip.
  2. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    Ed: Thank you for posting the picture. I suspect it is the only one of an AC K-7 on the web. Any chance of a close up of one plug? How tall are they? Are they 13/16 hex?
  3. '26 engine knock

    I remember reading on some period publication, probably Dyke's Encyclopedia or maybe Audel's, about a machine used to "burn in" newly cast babbit bearings. The machine would spin the fresh engine with an electric motor until it spun freely. Sounds risky. I would want it to turn freely, if only barely.
  4. Misfire on #1 plug 53 pon l8

    Is there any vacuum hose connection to the manifold near cylinder #1? If so you could try temporarily disconnecting and plugging the connection to the manifold.
  5. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    the LM46 is still available, same heat range in a lawnmower plug. The insulator is shorter. The top doesn't unscrew. For what its worth, the old AC plugs apparently were shorter in height than the current ones . Heres a KL7 and an LM46:
  6. AC K10 spark plug --- modern equivalent

    That old AC numbering system went away I believe in 1937. I dug deeply trying to figure out what was equivalent to the K-7 recommended in the 1936 Pontiac shop manual. There is no good cross reference, but the best clues are in old postings on this site by user "mlander". I imagine I am telling you what you already know, as you are in some of those threads. "mlander" last posted here in 2006. The K-7 turned out to be about an AC-45. I also found an application chart from the 40s somewhere that backs that up. All I can offer is that if you are looking for K-9 to K-12, those are really hot. I would just get the hottest one offered in that size.
  7. '26 engine knock

    Is it possible the shaft is bent? I think we canvassed this before. I was wondering that too. .003 seems a bit loose. I brought up those Chevrolet threads because I was wondering if its possible #1 isn't really as tight as the others, even though it seems so. Actually I think that works the other way. The splash oiled engines needed to be tighter. I have heard many stories over the years about clearances in these old engines being set to the modern "rule of thumb" and winding up noisy. In pressure fed engines with a lot of miles it isn't uncommon for the bearings to talk a little before the oil pressure comes up. Splashers do need fairly thin oil to ensure flow, especially cold.
  8. '26 engine knock

    I sort of doubt it has anything to do with the timing. Nearly all of my experience is with force fed engines, but as I understand it splash oilers need to run tighter than force fed engines. I think that rod tap-sideways test had more to do with checking the bearing clearance than the side clearance. I think their goal (on those Chevrolets anyway) is to run them as tight as they possibly can without binding, and they don't really quite believe what the plastigage is telling them. Any out of round would prevent getting the bearings very tight, as they would bind as you turned them. I don't know how much is too much. If it were mine, I think I would shim that bearing as tight as I could get it without binding, and see if it still makes noise. Even if it still does, that is a huge clue. It is so hard to tell about engine noises. All engines should behave about the same under the typical tests (cracking the throttle to listen for a rattle, disconnecting a spark plug and so on). In my experience they don't always. Usually, however, a small end (gudgeon pin) noise is a double knock. Usually it will change but not go away when you disconnect a spark plug. A rod knock should get quieter or go away. It is often hard to tell the difference between a small rod knock and some relatively harmless piston slap. What kind of pistons did you use and how much clearance? I would also wonder about the closest main bearing. How tight is it? I don't see how it could be anything to do with the camshaft. A noise there shouldn't change no matter what you do.
  9. '26 engine knock

    Assuming there is no problem with the small end (I was also wondering about that), you could try tightening the big end a little. I have used plastigage on almost everything I have ever worked on, but was reading the other day on the VCCA, and discovered that the 4 cylinder Chevy enthusiasts do not trust plastigage, and speak of tapping the big end sideways with a tiny hammer to check for clearance. They also turn the engine by hand to make sure the bearing being adjusted is not dragging to much. Apparently .0015 on those engines is on the high end of acceptable, and might make noise. Those Chevrolet engines are splash oilers. Is your Dodge splash oiled? Here are a couple of threads:'30 There are others over there as well. Another thing I have seen recommended is to turn the crank 90 degrees and recheck in case the crankshaft is a little less than round. This is to make sure it doesn't tighten up. Good luck.
  10. My dad & his car about 1950

    My best guess: 1940 Ford Deluxe convertible.
  11. As I understand it 195/80-16 matches 600-16 very close for diameter, so a match for 6.50 would need to be a little bigger.
  12. Grease / Oil for Steering Box

    ^^That stuff is a miracle. It does the job, and doesn't leak out.
  13. Finally put the Hudson into service!

    Not really. What is uncommon is one that does what you ask them to.
  14. Do you have any more pictures of your pump? Is this a bronze housing? Is it driven at a right angle to the crankshaft by a flat disc coupler? I don't have a spare, but if this is indeed the same as 1913, I might be able to come up with pictures and maybe measurements.