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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. Bloo

    Ring Gear RIvets

    Thanks! It looks as though I will be bolting this now. I took it to a riveter, and he decided after having a close look that he could not do it with his current setup, as there is not enough room around the rivet heads. The thing that concerns me is that the holes are not necessarily perfectly round, nor the same exact size, as they were intended for rivets. The holes in the case were ever so slightly larger than the ring gear. I read in a Buick shop manual that this occurs because the case is softer steel than the ring. 5/16" bolts fit, but with a bit of clearance.
  2. Bloo

    Piston question

    It is probably one pin. Hudson kept doing this all the way into the 50s If I am not mistaken. Yes, they are all lined up.
  3. The wheels look amazing. Were you able to shoot the single stage black right over the shiny varnish? It seems like the stencil would be in the way if you tried to scuff it.
  4. Bloo

    Ring Gear RIvets

    Who can rivet a differential ring gear? Car is a 36 Pontiac.
  5. Bloo

    Need id

    Good guess. This theatre had a sign about like that when it opened in 1918. It was on the side where the modern lighted sign is.
  6. I don't know much more than that. I imagine you will eventually get answers as there are a lot of knowledgeable people here. Another possibility is the Ford FE forum:
  7. Bloo

    Need id

    I'm guessing pre-neon, and that those holes are edison base sockets. Almost certain to have value if so.
  8. That is a Ford "FE" engine, most likely from 1958 or 1959. It should be 332 or 352 cubic inches. The thermostat neck suggests it isn't any newer (1960 or 61 would have had a surge tank there instead of a thermostat neck, so would a Thunderbird all the way back to 58).
  9. Bloo

    Piston question

    It's probably the pin that keeps the piston rings from turning.
  10. Bloo

    collector cars in California fire

    Don't you mean 46th? If so, I'm pretty sure that building was still there in the 90s when I lived there. I think it still stands today. Hard to believe after seeing the pictures.
  11. a-HA! Ford Vedette (France)
  12. Hi lump, Do you have any wedges like this one? Or bolts or hardware like this? Thanks!
  13. Some of those charts are better than others, but that one at the top of the page is just plain wrong. To get any size (excluding brass era pre-balloon tires and 1970s letter-size tires), start with the section width. That would be the first number in an old familiar tire size (6.00-16, 6-70-15 etc.) This is the width, at the widest point on the sidewall, in inches, on whatever rim width the designer designed it on. There is an acceptable range of rim widths, so the actual section width will vary with the rim width of the car the tire is mounted on. Multiply section width by the aspect ratio (60, 70, 75, 80, etc. percent) to get the section height, or distance from the rim to the ground. This is 90 or 100 (percent) for sizes introduced before 1965, and 80 for the "replacement" sizes introduced in 1965. These post-1965 sizes generally end in a 5 instead of a 0 (7.75-14 etc.). On metric tires, it is the same except the section width is in mm. On a 235/75R15 for instance, 235mm divided by 25.4 (convert to inches) gives you a section width of 9.25 inches. Multiply that by the aspect ratio 75 (9.25 x 0.75 = 6.94) gets you 6.94 inches of section height. Take the section height, multiply by 2, (6.94 x 2 = 13.88) plus the rim diameter (13.88 + 15 = 28.88) gets you a 28.88 tire diameter. Metric tires without the aspect ratio marked (example: 155R13) are typically 80 or 82 percent aspect ratio. This is all theoretical and only gets you close. For the real measurements you have to get on the website and look on the tire specifications page for the tires you have narrowed it down to. They will give the measurements of the actual tires, and if you are lucky, an actual revolutions per mile specification. Revs/mile varies a little bit from calculation even if you have the true measurements of the tires, due to the squish at the bottom of the tire. As you can see, since old American tires sizes are 100, 90 or 80 percent aspect ratio, and 75 series is the tallest aspect ratio you find a wide variety of tires in, modern tires are going to be much wider at the same overall diameter (to get your gear ratio and your speedometer right), or much smaller overall diameter to get the width right, so the tires don't hit at full steering lock, don't hit the rear fenders, don't have to be deflated to get the back wheels on, and so on. It works out just fine on some cars, not so well on others. Good luck.
  14. Bloo

    Chrysler 323.5 Straight 8 Flathead

    This came up once before. Apparently in some parts of the US "flat 6" was common slang going back to at least the 60s if not further. It was a surprise to me. I (in the northwestern US) had never heard of it.