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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. Master cylinder

    Plug? Air must move freely over the fluid. Anything old enough to be a Desoto probably has a hole. Newer cars use a loose rubber membrane (seal) to keep moist air away from the fluid, but it still allows the air to shift when you step on the brakes.
  2. 1938 Buick Century Fuel Sending Unit...

    Bent tube? Those tubes often need to be replaced anyway, due to cracking or holes worn where the tube clamps to the top of the sending unit. It is 5/16 copper tubing, a size most hardware stores don't have, but I did eventually find some. I suspect you could also use NiCopp brake line, or steel brake line. You do have to solder it. I suspect NiCopp would solder but I haven't tried. The bends in this piece are way too tight for any normal tubing benders. I started with extra length, crimped and folded over an end, and filled the tubing with salt, then I packed the salt in tightly with a punch and crimped the other end, folding it in such a way that it tightened the salt more. No matter what you do it is never tight enough,and you have to keep tightening it more as you work. I made the bends with a combination of cheap tubing benders and various size pipes and steel bars, working in a vise, usually with a pipe or something clamped in the vise. The tubing really wants to collapse. It is also a bit challenging to get the bends in the right paces. When I had it right, I cut the ends to length with a tubing cutter, dumped the salt out, and soldered it to the clamp and fitting. I didn't get the bends right on the first try. Buy more tubing than you think you need. It least one rivet will have to go away to get the clamp off. I don't think you could solder it while assembled because there is a cork gasket under there. I had the whole thing apart anyway due to problems with the resistor. Theres another gasket under the resistor housing. I had to make the rivets from hobby store brass tubing, The rivets at the hardware store were close, but not close enough. If you were only taking the pickup tube off, and not disassembling the rest, I think you could get away with just leaving that one rivet out.
  3. 1938 Buick Century Fuel Sending Unit...

    Is that original for 38? I have worked on a 37, and 37 is like DonMicheletti's picture. Either way, resistance is 0-30 ohms, with 0 ohms being empty.
  4. On a 0-90 ohm GM system, 0 ohms is empty. It isn't the tank ground. That would have the opposite effect of what you are seeing, nevertheless this system relies on perfect grounds to work, so you should add a good tank ground to make it reliable over the long term. Disconnect the wire going to the tank sending unit. With the ignition on, the gauge should peg. Now, short this wire to ground. The gauge should go to empty, or preferably below empty. If it will not do this, you have a problem with the gauge, wiring, or instrument cluster ground that you need to fix before bothering to pull the tank again. Is the float good? (yes I know its a new sending unit) These systems need to get to zero ohms for empty (almost impossible) and so there can be no stray resistance that wasn't there when the car was new, or you will have the opposite problem of what you have now. For this reason, and also to prevent float damage, the float cannot touch the bottom of the tank. It probably needs to run real close to the bottom though. With the float hanging down (out of the tank), measure the ohms with a multimeter. Put the unit in the tank and recheck. It should be the same. If it went up, the float is probably touching the bottom. Now flip the tank upside down and recheck. It had better be at least 90 ohms higher than it was right side up. If it isn't, you will never get to "full". Good luck!
  5. Turn Signals/Additional Brake Light...

    4 wire (a) and 7 wire (b) I think. The main thing to think about is how the system works, because there were variations..... For instance, I think what I am calling a "type a" is the one people often call a 4 wire. One wire in, two wires out, and a fourth wire for an indicator bulb I guess? Four wires just isn't enough wires to do the brake light switching trick. Without an indicator bulb, or with 2 turn signal indicator bulbs would be 3 wire I guess? There is also some brand of switch out there that has 2 bulbs in it, but they don't do what you think. They light when a bulb on the outside of the car is burned out! This switch does not do the brake light switching trick, I don't know how many wires it has. Now a "type b".... would have the 3 wires like the "type a" switch to make the front signals work. Plus 2 more wires to go to the rear bulbs. Plus one wire to feed current from the brake light switch. Thats 6. If it has a single indicator light, add one more, so 7 total. I don't know what an eighth wire might be for. You might be on to something with the 4-ways. The old switches didn't have that. There are so many variations on 4-way circuits I don't even know where to begin. It should be possible to have 4-ways without any additional parts except a bunch of extra contacts in the switch, I think. How is this for a wild theory: Maybe the eighth wire is always-on battery voltage. If you had 4-ways you would want them to work with the ignition off. The signals might only work with the ignition on.
  6. Turn Signals/Additional Brake Light...

    This subject is naturally muddy, but basically there are 2 kinds of signal light wiring. I am going to call them "type a" and "type b" "Type a" uses a separate filament, actually a whole separate bulb for the rear signal lights. This type includes most Japanese cars at least through the 80s, also "truck" signal conversion kits in the USA from the 30s onward that came with 4 signal light housings that you would mount yourself. It also includes the earliest Buick factory turn signals, as they were not even located physically close to the tail/stop lights, and so they had to be a separate bulb. "Type b" uses the same bulb filaments for the brake and signal lights at the rear of the car. This includes nearly all American cars with factory signal lights through the 80s at least an probably quite a bit beyond. There are exceptions, but few. It is also popular for conversions today, because most people wont want to add another light housing, and the existing one is probably already full of bulb(s). "Type a" is easy for wiring. The switch is just a SIngle Pole Double Throw (SPDT) switch. Fused (we hope) 6V (or 12V) is connected to the battery terminal of the flasher. Current flows out another flasher terminal to the signal light (DPDT) switch. From there it is switched to either the right or left side. The left front and left rear are usually wired together. The right front and right rear are wired together. Note this detail, because wiring the front and back together wont work on "type b". If there are 2 dash indicators, they are also wired into their respective sides. If there is a single dash indicator, it is wired to the third terminal of the flasher. "Type b" is different and needs more contacts in the switch. The front works just like "type a" described above. If there are 2 dash indicators they are wired to the front signals. If there is a single dash indicator, it is wired to the third flasher terminal just like "type a". The back is where it gets weird. In the rear, Fused (maybe) 6V (or12V) runs to the brake light switch. From the brake light switch it runs to the extra switch contacts in the turn signal switch, and then on to the rear signal/brake bulbs. Each rear signal/brake bulb has it's own switch contact and it's own wire. In "type b" systems, when you turn a signal on, the front bulb gets connected to the flasher. At the rear, contacts in the signal switch disconnect a bulb from the brake light switch, and then connect it to the flashing side. I hope this is enough information to figure out what kind of wiring you have. Good luck.
  7. 1957 buick special power brake booster

    This is the right way to do it. It usually wasn't done in later years. The shoes had to break in until they made contact. It might take a long time. Doing this right also solves most "pulling to one side" problems that aren't the suspension (but most of those are caused by the suspension). I think you can still get it done, but would probably have to send the parts out in the mail.
  8. Right Tire Pressure

    FWIW "maximum pressure" on a tire sidewall is a "maximum cold pressure" rating on every tire I have ever seen. It is expected and normal that the pressure will run higher when the tire gets hot. It is part of the design.
  9. Right Tire Pressure

    That is, I think how the factory numbers were arrived at on some cars. It results in bad gas mileage, mushy handling, short tread life, and overheated tires in hot weather. The way I remember it, most drivers would complain about "flat tires" at 26 psi. Almost everyone ran 32 or 35 psi in radial tires. Since many of the cars originally came with bias, and the tire manufacturers (of the new radials) only specified a maximum, there was no "official" recommendation. 32, 35, and 44 were the maximum pressure ratings you would see on passenger car radials back then. I, and every other gas station jockey I knew used 35 pounds (or 32 pounds if that was the maximum rating) unless someone would ask for a different pressure. Maybe 1 in 1000 people asked for a different pressure. Out here in Central Washington State, in the 110 degree summer heat, tires run down in the 20's would get hot enough to burn your hand when you checked the pressure, and the sidewall rubber would start to look rough. The speed limit was only 55mph then. It would be worse today. I am not arguing the math. You are correct about the ratings, and your example gives a typical result. I still wouldn't do it.
  10. Right Tire Pressure

    When in doubt, 35 pounds on any old American car with radial tires.
  11. 1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta SS

    That is gorgeous.
  12. Carburetor 38 Century

    Generally speaking (again, so defer to the Buick shop manual if it contradicts me) The weight should never be down, in fact probably straight up when cold The thermostat spring will not be in place when you weld it. Unhook it from the post. Cold position should direct exhaust up under the carb. Look up under there. There are probably 2 ports up under the intake. With the plate in the cold position (and the weight straight up), the plate will direct the exhaust up into ONE of the ports, somehow there should be a path from the other port on down and out. Most likely the top plate will just stop with its top edge between the ports. Hot position will most likely have the weight pointing straight at the engine, maybe ever so slightly up, (if the riser travel is less than 90 degrees it will be a little up). The plate will be at an angle that directs the exhaust coming from the engine down. This is the bottom-most picture in MCHinson's post. Flip the picture sideways. The shop manual should tell you how tight the thermostat spring is. It is probably half or 3/4 of a turn. Wind it up however much the book says and hook it over the post. If it gets tighter instead of looser with heat, the spring is on upside down. Take it off and flip it over.
  13. Carburetor 38 Century

    Are any of the gaskets leaking? If not is sort of looks to me like you could get away with removing the heat riser separately. Usually with a setup like that you would assemble it, and the intake and the exhaust to the head all at the same time, tightening all of it slowly in a sequence so that everything pulls into place properly. It seems to me, from the pictures, that if it is assembled correctly now, and not leaking, you should just be able to remove the riser and then put it back (you'll need gaskets) after fixing it. If someone knows different, hopefully they will speak up.
  14. Carburetor 38 Century

    Speaking in general terms (since I don't have a Buick the correct year to look at), it looks all wrong. The general plan is that the weight should be sticking UP in the cold position. As the thermostatic spring relaxes with heat, the weight should fall in such a way that the heat riser is bypassed. On most cars this is about 90 degrees of movement, usually slightly less on an inline engine like this one. In the bypass (HOT) mode, on most cars, the weight will be pointing at the engine block more or less. Anti rattle spring arrangements vary, but probably the heat riser, when open, "rides" on the stiff spring as a lower stop, to keep the plate from rattling as you go over bumps. It could also be an "over center" arrangement so that it acts as a "stop" at both the open and closed position. Find out what that weight is doing in relation to the plate. It sure looks wrong to me. I suspect it should not be possible for the weight to be pointing straight down.
  15. HELP With 1955 Nash Ambassador Custom

    Thirty years or so before I had my 'tub, my dad had a brand new one. He told me nobody wanted to let their daughter go on a date with him ;). You probably flew under the radar with that Peugeot.