Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on November 21

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About Bloo

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  1. GAS TANK SENDER FIXED

    Yes, theres a cork washer that acts as a brake. There is also a baffle in the tank around the sending unit to slow the sloshing (at least on 37 Roadmaster). The balanced coil design of the gauge causes it to respond instantly to input from the sender. With an aftermarket sender I would expect a lot of waving around. Also, the brake in the picture wont work correctly as is. There is a notch in the back side. The little tab you see should be captured in the notch.
  2. Battery Voltage Drop

    Generally speaking, they weren't designed to crank that fast. The question is, are you running out of cranking ability right away? If so, something might actually be wrong. Otherwise, probably not.
  3. I think thats a terrible name for a small local rebuild service. You should have rented a warehouse and done bulk rebuilding for the auto parts stores. It's a great name for that. Truth in advertising, etc. etc. NCR made some PCs for use with cash registers. They were proudly labeled "Real POS" on the front panel. I swear I'm not making this up.
  4. gas in oil pan

    For a carbureted car there is NO better, no safer, no more reliable solution than a mechanical fuel pump driven by the engine, a fuel filter (not plastic) at the carb, and a sock on the fuel pickup in the tank, IF you can make it work without vapor lock. There are a whole raft of good reasons it was done this way for 50 years. Many on the forum have added a pump only for priming. That sounds like a reasonable solution if you need to do it due to an otherwise unsolvable vapor lock or dry start problem. I haven't had to do it to anything I currently own. I hope I don't have to.
  5. Advice on a Bentley please.

    So, I see you have heard of the "string room" at Alfa Romeo....
  6. It has 1/2 the field running unregulated (for current) and the other half regulated by a non-adjustable third brush. The regulator contains a cutout and a voltage regulator. The generator is spun a little faster than a plain 3rd brush generator is. This works better than you would imagine it could. It is good for about 25 amps, and will charge down a little lower in RPM than a plain third brush setup. Tapering off at higher rpm is minimized.
  7. Well, you have to think about how you lay it out. There are several ways. If you have each "pair" of high beams on a relay, and something fails, you would still have the other two. If you have the low beams on a relay, and something fails, you lose it all (but you can get light back by hitting the high beam switch). If you have a fourth relay you can split the low beams so that cant happen. If you split the high beams up by side (1 relay switches 2 high beams on the same side) you could probably get by with only 2 fuses, one per side of the car. In that scenario, with a blown fuse, one side goes dark on both low and high. With a bad relay you lose either high or low on one side. On the other hand, you could just fuse every relay separately. Either way you keep some light on the front of the car with a failure. The only thing that can still screw you up and turn off the whole front of the car is if the circuit breaker in the light switch (the original problem) kicks out. With only the current draw of the relay coils it wont happen. One thing though, make sure your dimmer switch is good. Those have a nasty habit of corroding up and leaking current to the floor they are bolted to. THAT could kick out the circuit breaker.
  8. I wouldn't use starting fluid.... It can be extremely harmful to the engine. It it also very misunderstood. It apparenlty exists because typical gas in the 20s had so much kerosene in it that in cold weather it would not vaporize, at all. LAS VEGAS DAVE and MCHinson are on the right track. Find out if the carburetor is truly getting empty. If it is, verify that you heat riser is working properly, and opening when the manifold gets hot. What kind of check valves does the fuel pump have in it? If they are the bakelite disc type, and they are brand new. they probably don't work yet. This can make it very slow to refill the carb at cranking speed. If they are elastomer type (replaced as an assembly) you can probably ignore this. I believe these cars have a drain in the intake manifold to relieve flooding. There should be a ball bearing (or something) that sucks up and closes the drain when the engine starts. Is it there and does it work? With the engine hot, and you think it probably isn't going to start, disable the starter (by disconnecting the battery or whatever) and look down the throat of the carb. Open the throttle and look for the accelerator pump to squirt. Make sure it does. If there is gas in the carb, it should squirt with any movement of the throttle. Lastly, what kind of automatic choke do you have? Is it the original Delco type?
  9. That's really the right way to do it. With 4 relays the front end cannot go completely dark (assuming the fusing was well thought out).
  10. First Snow!

    I wondered why you mentioned Snoqualmie, but figured you meant Blewett. All routes I am aware of over the top (Clockum etc.) often have snowdrifts several feet deep across the road all winter. Your side melts first. There are a couple of radio sites up on top, and I have heard of years when a helicopter was required. The radio buildings have doors on the second floor.... Great pictures!
  11. First Snow!

    I didn't think you meant the highway Carl, I thought you meant OVER Mission Ridge, via Clockum pass or perhaps one of the other roads that goes a little closer to you. AFAIK the last road improvements up there were done in the 1800s for stagecoaches. It hasn't been maintained much since. In the winter you pretty much need a snow cat (or a snowmobile).
  12. First Snow!

    HA! If you mean over the top, its gonna take more than a Subaru. Maybe one of those tracked vehicles of yours?
  13. WOW! Nice job! I hope it works out!
  14. Removes the guides! Here it is in use: https://www.quartoknows.com/blog/quartodrives/2015/11/03/ford-flathead-valve-assembly-removal/
  15. I can guess whats going on here. Most American cars of this vintage have a circuit breaker in the headlight switch. I don't know for sure how many amps it is on your Buick, but in Chrysler products it was 15 amps until 1968, and then 20 amps thereafter. This was typical for the period, because the original bulbs for a 4 headlight system were 37.5 watts (x4) on high beam. Later on they raised the wattage of new bulbs. Cars with 4 headlights made before the late 60s often have trouble keeping the high beams on if all 4 bulbs have been changed. 15 amps just isn't enough. A relay system might be in order here.