Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. Bloo

    Daily Driver Vintage?

    If you take the time and sort the car out, you can drive it anywhere you want. You are on the right track. Do the obvious stuff (hoses, brakes, etc.), and take it on longer and longer jaunts and fix things as you find them. After a while, it will get to the point you can trust it for really long trips.
  2. Bloo

    38 Century Driveability Hiccups...

    The biggest difference between #2 Permatex and Indian Head is that Indian Head hardens. Indian head is great for gluing something in place. It will never move once dry. #2 Permatex stays soft. Great if that is what you want. Both are shellac as far as I know. Hylomar is an anaerobic sealant more in the vein of Loctite. Indian head generally shouldn't be used on both sides of a gasket, unless you intend for it never to come apart.
  3. Bloo

    38 Century Driveability Hiccups...

    For what it is worth I usually glue fuel pump gaskets to the engine with Indian Head, and run the other side dry, or with the tiniest, thinnest (cannot tell it is there) bit of silicone. If the pump has to come off, the gasket stays in place and can be reused. If your gasket sealer, whatever it is, is still slippery when you tighten the bolts, the gasket will try to squirt out and probably split. If you have sealer on both sides consider just snugging the bolts down, and do your final tightening after the sealer has had some time to set up. Don't overdo it on gasket thickness. It might reduce fuel pump stroke.
  4. Bloo

    38 Century Driveability Hiccups...

    If and when you have a gasket that will not stop leaking no matter what, try this: Cut a new gasket from an oil filter box. This is the worst sort of rubbish cardboard imaginable. You may notice the ink crumbling off as you cut it with a scissors. The card on the back of a cheap notepad is another possible source if there is no oil filter box available.. Spray this new gasket with high temperature engine paint. Do both sides and let it drink all the paint it will. Lay it out in the sun, and when it gets to the point where it is sticky or tacky, put it on CLEAN surfaces and tighten it down to spec. Give the paint some time to set up before you use it, then double-check that it is tight. Works on engine oil or antifreeze. It even works where aluminum bolts to cast iron, though logic dictates it should not. This is a throwback to the old days. Really, there is no good reason you should need to do this in 2018. Indian head is still available (for the moment). Hylomar is still available. Silicone that actually works is available. Fuel pumps usually seal ok with a dry gasket..... If you ever get really stuck and nothing is working, it is an option.
  5. Bloo

    38 Century Driveability Hiccups...

    Yeah, that thing isn't the gasket. maybe something to help keep fuel splash back when the diaphragm fails, and minimize oil contamination? I have seen a thing like that somewhere. There is no magic to the actual gasket, is there? IIRC it is the same one used by many American cars through the 70s and beyond. Any parts store in the US will have it. Try "1975 Chevrolet 350" or "1970 ford 390" or "1978 Plymouth 318" or almost anything else you can think of. If they don't have it, or don't know they do, look over on the wall with all the Edelbrock and Mr. Gasket stuff. There will be one there. I like original bolts, but if they are suspect, theres nothing wrong with using new grade 8. That will end any bolt problems (but grade 5 would have been fine). Tighten them to spec, whatever that is (no more). Loctite prevents oil leaking out the threads, if the holes go all the way through.
  6. Bloo

    38 Century Driveability Hiccups...

    Aren't 37 points a single part you just screw down to the breaker plate? If so, you almost never have to change the tension. The distributor NEEDS to go back in the way it was before, or everything needs to be changed to match the book (pump shaft position, distributor position, wire position on cap, etc... If it was running you don't need to change it.
  7. Are either of those left hand thread?
  8. Bloo

    1936 roadmaster generator

    Do you have a picture of the regulator and clip in question? And the shop manual picture? I suspect it is just a condenser to suppress radio interference. I would not be quick to condemn the 5-pole. I have one on my Pontiac (electrically identical to Buick according to Delco), and since cleaning its points, has been working terrific for over a year now. Getting rid of it on a Buick with autostart is a bit of a kludge.
  9. Im not sure about the nut! it might be backwards on one side like the lug bolts. Get your eyeball down there and you might be able to tell...
  10. If the factory manual insists on a tool, look in Chiltons or Motor and see if they have some adjustment sequence that will work. Those are Lockheed brakes IIRC. They might have their own section in the manual.
  11. 61 Polara and Spineyhill pretty much nailed this. Remove the cotter key on the rear axle and loosen the nut. Back it off 1/4 inch or so but leave it there. Use the puller. Air is a better way if you can get away with it, but you will see places on the puller's "crank" to hit with a hammer if you need to. Sometimes you might need to leave the tension on it and keep tightening every day and eventually it will pop. Remove springs with Spineyhill's pliers. Get some GOOD flare wrenches if you don't have some. The Harbor Freight ones are fine (surprisingly). Wimpy ones will just round all the fittings off.
  12. I don't remember. I suspect it holds the cylinder and the shoe. IIRC that big round thing is an eccentric adjuster for the end of the shoe. You can literally adjust the shoes up and down as well as in and out. Thats the good news. The bad news is you need to to do that to get them working. It was done with a special tool that mounted like a brake drum and allowed you to measure how far the lining was from where the drum would be, all the way around. You are gonna need a manual. There may be a sequence of adjustments that would work with the drums on. If not, you may need to make a tool. These have no servo action like most drum brakes of 1955. Thats why the cylinders are split on front . Two leading shoes! They feel really solid and linear like disc brakes, and stop like crazy when they are adjusted right. When they are wrong, you stand on your nice solid pedal and not much happens.
  13. Bloo

    38 Century Driveability Hiccups...

    I don't know if you have to adjust a Buick running, I would have to look in the manual, and I am not sure where it is. I suggested it partly because it probably needs it, but mainly so you could watch the valves moving, eliminating any possibility of a flat camshaft. I do not expect to see that in your car, but it would be good to eliminate it, and if you adjust your valves, the valve cover will already be off. I see in some other thread you are pulling the cover anyway to replace the gasket. Watch the valves. The motion should all be about the same. A bad one moves little if any. Do I recall this car has a newer engine? If it has hydraulic lifters, probably no need to adjust, but check the manual for the year of the engine.. . I don't know. If that is the correct heat range, then yes. Choices are limited these days. Any plugs known to work ok in another Buick straight 8 should be fine. In fact, literally any clean correctly gapped plugs that physically fit should be good enough to suss out the problem you are having. Do I like that they are resistor? Not really, but almost everything is. Vacuum should pull a bunch of extra advance in when you open the throttle with no load, then go back away at idle. The shop manual will probably tell you how much. Pay attention to the units used in any specs. 1 distributor degree = 2 crankshaft degrees, 1 distributor RPM = 2 crankshaft RPM. Centrifugal advance is just directly related to engine speed. You should still see it working with the vacuum disconnected. If the condenser hasn't been replaced, be sure to try that, probably first.
  14. It has been way too long.... My gut reaction is that you would back off the adjuster, but not mess with the pivot. IIRC the pivots were adjustable on these. It seems to me if you didn't back off the adjuster you might not get the drum off if there is a ridge from wear. The back ones (if you haven't seen them) should not have the split cylinder like the front, just a normal cylinder at the top, so both shoe pivots will be at the bottom. The adjuster would have to be somewhere else. Probably halfway up the shoe.
  15. Bloo

    Identify GM connecting rods NOS, help appreciated

    Pontiac through those years will have insert bearings (not babbitted rods).