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About Bloo

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  1. It's air. This stuff is near impossible to bleed. Once bled, Its wonderful. No more perishable corrosive stuff eating your cylinders. Try this. Pour some in a jar. Let it set a while, maybe even overnight. Look at it. Look at it real good. Clear? Good! Now pour some more fluid in the jar and look again. Get out your magnifying glass, or better yet your loupe. See those little things? those are BUBBLES. They aren't floating to the top very fast, are they? This is what happens when you pour more fluid in and then bleed. Those little tiny bubbles get bled back INTO the system. If you put this in a system, fill it as much as you can and let it set a long time. Overnight would be good. Next morning, gravity bleed if you can. If not, use a vacuum bleeder. Pumping it up and squirting it in the traditional manner is not going to work. When the reservoir gets close to empty, refill it and walk away. Come back later, much later. Maybe tomorrow. Bleed until you get low again. If you have to add fluid, walk away. The jar experiment will give you some idea how long it needs to sit after you add fluid. You want it to be clear for a long time before you attempt to bleed. The smallest bubbles seem to take the longest time to come out, and are the hardest to see. Once bled, and you have a good pedal, drive the car and hope it shakes any remaining air loose. One final quick bleed at each corner a day or two later may make it a little more solid. 30 years ago, Johnsen's was easier to bleed than some of the others (Sta-Lube, etc). I have no idea which one is best now, but the brand can make a big difference. This stuff is a giant pain, but a restored car really is the ideal use for it. Many of our cars don't even try to keep the outside air away from the fluid. Once its in there and bled, it lasts a long time, and doesn't sit there sucking water out of the air like DOT3/DOT4 does.
  2. If you want something completely bulletproof in ethanol-laced gas, look for "SAE 30R9" rated fuel hose. Oreilly has it in little blisterpacks hanging out in the store. It doesnt say so on the package, but the package is made so you can open it and look. It is rather expensive. This is generally used with fuel-injection style (non-extruding) clamps. They also have clamps. I suspect this is complete overkill for the supply side of a mechanical fuel pump for a carburetor. This hose is intended for high pressure fuel injection systems.
  3. Sounds healthy!
  4. I would have got real sick of that too. I bought Borg Warner ignition points recently, the 2 piece style. They were unbelievably cheaply made, and fit extremely loose around the pivot in the distributor. The distributor machine showed the timing jumping around about 10 degrees at random because of that loose pivot. Some off-brand NORS points.from ebay fixed it. Good parts are getting hard to find.
  5. I have daily driven cars with generators. Assuming it isn't some third brush crap (and this isn't) it doesn't even really require much special consideration. They don't charge at idle. You have to remember to shut off the lights and radio if you want to leave the car idling a long time. I have never understood why people want to put on 10si/12si Delco alternators to "improve reliability". Those were sloppily made in the first place, and reasonably reliable, but not terrific. I guess because you can hook them up with one wire. I have heard of issues with those new production regulators. Is it really that hard to find a usable regulator these days? Personally I would run if I saw the cover riveted on. Generally speaking, the shop manual for almost any car will tell you how to set up all the air gaps and regulated voltage and current. Usually that only needs to be done if somebody has been poking around in the regulator making random adjustments.
  6. Thats the whole (hole?) idea. It has to be a blind hole. The grease pushes it out hydraulically.
  7. want to buy

    I don't know. There was a 1936 Chevrolet 2 door sedan driver's door on Portland Craigslist a few months ago. The seller was sold this door as a Pontiac door but it wasn't. The ad didn't say if it was Chevrolet Standard or Chevrolet Master. I don't know whether it sold, but if it turns out you can use a Chevrolet door, I saved the contact info, and would be happy to pass it along.
  8. Is it really just a bushing at the back? No bearing? One way to get a bushing out of a blind hole is to put a bunch of grease in the hole, put a bolt (or rod or something) that fits almost tight in the hole in the bushing, and hit it with a hammer. This works on pilot bushings for clutches, too.
  9. Generators don't like overspeed. They often wind up looking like yours. If the pulley size is way different, you should put the Buick one on. Other than that, if it will mount up, go for it. That armature looks pretty bad. The other parts of yours are probably usable but.. $20? If you can make it work, do it!
  10. Ya, I would also try to repair if it were me. You just gotta solder to the end of the one broken wire. You will have to scrape the insulation on the end of that one broken wire. You just want to extend it, and not make electrical connection with anything else (well except the commutator at the other end of the wire). Basically what bhigdog said. You definitely don't want anything bare touching the shaft or laminations (ground).
  11. A rebuild usually means bearings, brushes, and turn the commutator on a lathe. I'm not seeing the damage from that pic. What am I missing? Edit: I see it now. Is the Buick 12v negative ground? The 56 Chevy was. Chances are good the Chevy one could be made to work if it will bolt on and both are 12v negative ground. Does your Buick have autostart? How many terminals on the voltage regulator?
  12. Im hoping the Buick gurus in here will know more about your particular heat riser. On the Chrysler ones I am most familiar with, they HAVE to work for the factory choke to work, and a stuck one will drive you nuts in short order on a street driven car. Other than that, put it in and drive it. If you look too close, you will find stuff. Old cars aren't perfect. When you build this car a new motor, if you still intend to, then nitpick that one and make it perfect. On a used engine for a driver, just drive it!. Check your oil and water a lot, especially the oil. This happened every time the car got filled with gas when it was new. Make sure you are checking it often enough that it doesn't need a whole bunch of oil every time, that way if the oil consumption suddenly gets worse, you wont get a nasty surprise. Change the oil regularly. If it uses a lot of oil, don't fall into the trap of "I'm always dumping fresh oil in there so it must be ok". The real reason for draining the pan is to get the contaminants out. Watch the oil ESPECIALLY CLOSE the first time you drive it across the state. If you have been driving a car around the city for a while and then take it on a long highway run, it might appear to burn a whole bunch of oil. This is because all the gas and water that leaked past the rings all boils out when the car gets really warmed up all the way. Many people aren't aware of this effect and get surprised by it. In any event, you will be familiar with this particular engine's needs soon enough, just drive it!
  13. I wouldn't take too much apart. Get the heat riser working though. The shop manual oughta tell you something about it I think. 99 percent of heat risers work the same way. The thermostatic spring pulls the valve shut. The weight is up high somewhere. as the spring relaxes with heat, the weight pulls down, opening the valve. Any other springs or pads or whatever are there to keep it from rattling. If you think the thermostatic spring might be on backwards, point a heat gun at it and watch what happens.
  14. Sold? To you or someone else?