Bloo

Members
  • Content count

    266
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Bloo last won the day on September 28

Bloo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

113 Excellent

1 Follower

About Bloo

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  1. radiator leak idea?

    If any of you guys know of oldschool radiator shops that still can reliably service radiators by soldering holes, removing tanks and headers, rodding out, etc.... I would love to hear about it. They are getting hard to find. It seems many shops are simply sales outfits for cheaply made replacement whole radiators, or if not they seem to want to sell whole cores on every job. My favorite shop (R-E-R in Bellevue, WA) focused on rebuilding radiators. They are long gone. If there are any shops like this left, please post name and location. Maybe we can send them some business!
  2. Foaming radiator

    In my opinion, the problem arises from leaving the coolant in too long. Back before DexCool and similar concoctions were available, Many people felt that if the antifreeze would pass a specific gravity test, there was no reason to change it. Those same people had rotten radiators, rotten freeze plugs, and white powdery corrosion under every hose connection where the acidic old coolant tried to eat its way to freedom. Today, the only thing that has really changed is that the factory approves. I have seen inside of one of the affected GM rigs, with a vortec V6. Yes, the gasket failed, but there was also severe corrosion to the aluminum surfaces. Interestingly the gasket GM used was a FEL-PRO, not just any FEL-PRO, but a specific type that had a plastic core, and silicone beads around the ports. You can see pictures of the deformed failed gaskets all over the web. Interestingly, FEL-PRO offered that same gasket design as an aftermarket upgrade for the Ford FE (352-390-428-etc.). The web is full of horror stories about these gaskets failing, and there are plenty of pictures to view. The failures look exactly the same as the GM failures. Ford FE engines are cast iron. I doubt many of those guys use special GM coolant.
  3. Turn Signal Add ons

    I read about the UK signals somewhere, but only remembered that they were different than USA. Out and down in USA is slowing/stopping. I guess you don't need that one if you have brakelights. I have used it in brass cars!
  4. Turn Signal Add ons

    How did/do hand signals work in New Zealand? In the USA its arm up for right turn, and arm straight out for left (this is with left hand drive and right hand traffic). Is this in a car that has the steering wheel on the wrong side for New Zealand?
  5. Foaming radiator

    I have been using what I suspect is OAT since 1987 or 88. It was called "phosphate free" back then, and was dyed green like most other coolant. It disappeared from the market at the same time (1995) that DexCool appeared. I have been using DexCool since in basically everything with zero issues. I have not tried it in a non-pressurized system. The nice thing about it is that if you get some little leak it doesn't make a gooey green mess, you just get a trail of white powder. I do not leave it in 5 years. GM suggested that, and had loads of trouble with corrosion. 2 years is about the maximum. I have heard all the warnings recently, and it makes me a little nervous, but 30 years in, I am beginning to think I wont live long enough to see this stuff eat a radiator.
  6. Foaming radiator

    Has anyone tried Propylene Glycol in a system like this? (Sierra, etc...)
  7. Foaming radiator

    Now that is discouraging.... How much antifreze do you think we CAN get away with? I have a 1913 Studebaker 25 that has a paddle-wheel type water pump with a packing nut. In the 70s, I filled it with antifreze, probably 50-50, and it didn't work out. The main problem was the vapors got all over the windshield and made it impossible to see. I suppose it was foaming, but I didn't realize it at the time. A little did get on the paint, and left light spots. You cant see them today, but that is pretty scary. I always figured I could solve this by plumbing the overflow to the back of the car. I guess not. I use straight water, and drain it after every outing. That is really a pain, and one of several reasons I don't drive it much. It gets cold here, and you just cant take a chance on forgetting to drain it. it was 18F here for 3 straight weeks last winter, and --20F is not unheard of. I wonder if there is some sort of anti-foaming agent available? Meanwhile, I have a 1936 Pontiac with a packing-nut water pump and an unpressurized system, and it is working fine with 50-50 (or more) antifreze. It is the old-fashioned green stuff. The Pontiac is a little strange in that it has a crossflow radiator, and does not run the core entirely full. Im not sure why it would make a lot of difference, but it works.
  8. What about the floor edge? Do I see nails or screws or something down there? Or, are the screws along the windlace the only visible fasteners?
  9. Soldering Tips Needed

    Congratulations! It sounds like it went well. Be sure to sink it in a glass of water and look for leaks (streams of extremely tiny bubbles) before you install it.
  10. Duesenberg Concept

    Stutz you say? https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1972-stutz-blackhawk-humpback/6346981237.html
  11. Good Chrome Shops

    Thanks to everyone who responded!
  12. What are your thoughts on this car?

    The Skylark is one of 319. If it really is a 1939, as the listing says, then it is a Junior six, and is one of 30 (or possibly one of four hand-built prototypes).
  13. 1929 Chev 194 push rod cover Question

    http://vcca.org/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/181223/Re:_1929_pushrod_cover_gaskets
  14. Bet you haven't seen one of these:

    More tires (tyres?) http://www.minimania.com/part/FALKEN-10/Austin-Mini-Falken-145-80-10-Tire https://www.7ent.com/categories/wheels-tires/tires.html https://usa.minisport.com/mini-tuning-and-styling/mini-wheels-and-tyres/mini-10-tyres.html
  15. Title

    As others have mentioned, titling to an engine number, or a frame number, or both, was common. With no "VIN" in those days, what was used varied by state . I had a Nash with a unibody that had something like a VIN. Since there was no frame, it had a number that referred to the whole body/frame unit, just like the VIN of today. States weren't accustomed to that yet since it was not yet the usual way of doing things. Nashes in Washington were titled to this VIN-like number, except mine, it was titled to the engine number. I spoke with the original owner, and he told me he bought the car in Oregon, and brought it to Washington 7 years later. Apparently the Washington authorities just copied the number from the Oregon paperwork. This was only a problem because the block was cracked. It shouldn't have been a big deal because the cracked block with the correct number was in the still drivable car. I let that one go to another enthusiast who was more interested in dealing with the upcoming title issues than I was. It probably is an engine number. If it matches, there is nothing to do unless you need to change the engine.