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  • Birthday 11/27/1953

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    reside in Orlando,Fl...owned 65 RIV nearing completion after 20 yrs of restoration....orig.blue/wht int, now silv/ blk int....
  1. Sorry to hear about their "backend problems". Sounds painful.
  2. Ive tried both masking and "spray & wipe" techniques over the years and find masking to be the way to go. I usually clean up any mistakes with laquer thinner on a q-tip. Not only is masking off all those little ridges therapeutic, you get a greater sense of accomplishment having labored painstakingly for so long. The rocker panel trim will really test your powers of patience & endurance! BTW, I wonder if a topcoat of matte finish clear enamel would protect the paint not recommended for outdoor use? And as far as Ive experienced, Krylon is far superior to Rustoleum in every way. Just sayin'
  3. Brilliant solution Rodney! Q. at optimum performance, how long should a vacuum canister hold enough nothing to operate the trunk release.? I want to install one, but I don't open the trunk that often, so will I have to start the engine to use the remote? Drew
  4. Nice! Glad you posted the new photos w the true red. Way better than the orange look. BTW, there's very little clearance between the battery posts and the underside of the hood, so plan your battery cover carefully. I found this out the hard way....some time ago I was having my engine rebuilt after a long period of storage. I authorized the mechanic to install a new battery. Unfortunately he got the wrong one, which was about an inch taller than stock. Upon completion, he closed the hood. Thank God only one of the posts hit the underside, otherwise the Riv might have become a giant welding rig.......as it was it pushed up that corner of the hood, cracked and chipped the paint topside. jus sayin.
  5. naw I'm just funnin wit cha
  6. Wow you guys! My feelings are so hurt right now! I feel as though Ive been attached by a pack of wild animals! That is MY car you're laughing at! Ive poured blood, sweat, & tears into that car for years. She may not be you're cup of tea, but she's the love of my life. Creating my vision is the only thing that has kept me alive through years of debilitating sickness. In fact, I'm hoping that Natasha will now literally save my life. I'm being forced to sell her to pay for multiple organ transplants that will keep me alive for who knows how long. And now I have to suffer the embarrassment of being publicly humiliated by people I thought were my friends! Well, this may just be the last time you here from me!
  7. Hey Scott! I had the same problem recently. Mine is a '65 but they are probably similar or identical. I assumed that Clark's had those in stock. They were pictured in the catalog for years. When I finally got around to ordering one I found out they had discontinued them some time ago. However I was able to refurbish mine to acceptable condition. Bear in mind , I'm not a professional restorer by any means. I was winging it most of the way....and my interior is not quite show quality, so the bar was low. But it came out looking better than ever. I removed the plate from the housing...it is pinched in over the lens plate at either end...then I carefully pried the white plastic "lenses" from the back. They were glued in 52 yrs ago but popped right out. The raised letters were encrusted with decades of polish, dirt, etc., and the plastic had degenerated and was soft & crumbly . I trimmed off the "dead" parts with an exacto & sandpaper, and ended up with mostly well defined ( but shorter) letters. With Maguiars plastic polish I was able to return the scratched plate to perfect condition (along with my instrument panel lenses, by the way). I then carefully glued the "lenses "back into the plate. Next I took off-white gloss acrylic paint and filled in the PRNDLs from the top with thin layers, wiping off the excess. The result was less than perfect at night, as the letters are not illuminated as brightly as I had hoped. I improved the situation by replacing the bulb with an 8 lens LED mega bulb( Ebay). Instrument illumination has always been one of the Riviera's weak spots, so it's no worse off. The upside is that the lens looks better than it ever did in the daylight, with shiny black plastic & bright, distinct letters. In fact, I almost feel like I should ugly it up a bit to match everything around it. You may be able to improve on my technique, who knows....the fact is that it is do-able.
  8. Yes, he was not working for a while due to a serious medical problem, but apparently is back at it now. In addition to the console veneer kits that are already available, he will soon be reproducing the '65 deluxe door veneers, complete with pinstripes. This will be the only source for these parts as far as I know, so throw Mr Scanlan some business if you can. I'm savin' up for mine now!
  9. Question: Is the interior trim on 1st gens (around the glass & pillars) made of stainless or is it chromed ? Mine was painted black either at the factory or by a previous owner. If it is stainless I will try to strip & polish it....If it is chrome then it was probably painted for a reason. Thanks RIVNIK
  10. Success! Double nutting the studs as Ed suggested proved difficult in the tight confines, but I was able to unbolt the valance & tip it down enough to get the grille out with them in place. I put pieces of duct tape on the valance to prevent the studs from scratching it. It took a little prying and manipulating. Then I removed the studs from the new grille and it went in easily. Thanks for the advice! BTW.... the grille I recently purchased came bolted to a valance which had beed blasted & painted Riviera sea foam green. It is in absolutely NOS condition if anyone is interested get in touch....I promise you a terrific deal (.there are several on Ebay in terrible condition for ridiculous amounts) . RIVNIK
  11. Thanks Gents! I'm on it! Drew
  12. Somebody help me ! I'm replacing the grille on my '65. I vaguely remember having it off the car (20 years ago or so) & assumed it was a snap......must've been in a dream. After removing the bolts that attach it topside, & the nuts holding it to the bumper filler/valance, I see the grille will not tilt forward enough to clear the overhanging fenders on either side. Q. if I remove the bolts which attach the filler plate to the fenders & crossmember,will I be able to get enough clearance? Will it help to remove the bumper? (It doesn't look like it interferes in any way) Or.........If somebody could come over & do it for me just this first time while I look over your shoulder, then I wouldn't have to bother you about it anymore. Thanks, RIVNIK
  13. Greetings! Good news! Bob from Scanlan Classic Auto Veneer will be back to reproducing interior wood kits for the 1st Gen Rivs soon. Send him some business if you can. RIVNIK
  14. Eureka! Thought I had checked Cars Inc. but must have been having an old man moment. Proper dimensions, complete with the little tips, a little expensive, but what'cha gonna do? Thanks for the reply Ed RIVNIK
  15. Sorry, don't know how that old message went through....That problem was properly addressed ..........Anyhoo, I can't seem to find front side glass run channels for my '65. Not listed at Steeles, Cars, Classic Buick, or OPGI. Anyone know a source? much appreciated RIVNIK