blocking off holes during steam clean

[Guest n1gzd]

If I steam cleaned my engine (and I don't even know if that is a good idea). How do I prevent water (block off) from getting in places like starter hole, fuel pump hole, intake exhaust.

I was envisioning that you could do it with something like a set of various size rubber stopers that you jam in the open holes.

Any recommendations? I tried cleaning the engine with a solvent but it is too dirty for that. There is no way that I can clean it well enough to paint (except the valve cover).

Rebecca

[Guest n1gzd]

I should mention that my straight 8 is still on the car. I don't want to pull the engine yet but I want to try and paint it. I am aware that this is a sub optimal thing to do. Currently the engine is Buick green. I want it to be Buick turquoise. It would be much easier to touch it up with the current color rather than try and change the color.

Rebecca

[JohnD1956]

Not so efficient but you could just bunch up rags and stuff them in the holes. some water will still get in but probably not enough to matter. I would not worry about the starter hole. That should just go to the bell housing and drain through the lower inspection plate.

AS for cleaning the engine, I recommend a light scraping over old newspaper first. This should get most of the heavy grease off. It's easy to roll up and dispose and makes a hell of a fire starter for outdoor fire pits. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Then there's a lot of solvents out there to finish the job.

Personally I like Greased Lightening, which is available in bulk sizes at both Sams club and BJ's. The thing is I usually try to warm the engine up a little first as I think it helps the solvent work through the grease. In your case I don't know how I'd do this. Maybe a engine block heater? But I do know if you can avoid electrical wires, you might also try easy off oven cleaner. That will gut through that old oil like nobody's business. It works on cold surfaces if you can put it on and let it set for a while. A few hours is enough and the engine may take more than one application to clean, but it will do the job.

Lastly I'd try shooting everything with non chlorine brake cleaner and maybe then a wipe down with laquer thinner.

At that point I'd remove the other covers and paint them off the engine so new gaskets can be installed on everything with the painted parts.

Good Luck

JD

[Dandy Dave]

If you have round or semi round holes swimming pool plugs work well. They come in a variety of sizes and can be found in any swimming pool/ hot tub supply place. You do need to be careful that you do not get water in the engine. Especially if you cannot run it to dry it out after. Easy off oven cleaner will take a lot of grime and even the old paint off and then just high pressure wash it or steam it if you wish. Be careful where you aim the High Pressure nozzel as you can blow gaskets apart with it and create a leak/ hole. Gaskets made of cork like the valve cover and lifter covers are espcialy susceptible. Cover the fire wall, fenders, ect so you don't get the oven cleaner on parts that you do not want to take the grime and paint off of. It usually takes more than one coat and wash to do the job. pull the plugs and turn the motor when you are done to be sure nothing has gotten in it. If it has then use a blow gun and air compressor to blow it out and put some oil in the cyliners after you have them dry. No starter? No problem. Turn it over with a socket wrench from the harmonic ballance in front of the motor. You will need to do this in warm weather or a warm place with a change of clothes though as it is a dirty job and you can't help but to get wet. I wear one of those yellow plastic rainsuits when I do it and swimming shorts underneath. I've done a lot of motors,tractors and machinery this way and have found it to be the quickest and safest way to clean things and get a good job at the end. You will also want to get the front of the car up so you can wash it underneath to get the oil pan and such. Jack it up and put it on some ramps. Block it so it cannot roll. There is nothing simple about getting 50+ year old grime off of anything and as any restorer will tell you, cleaning is the most time consuming part of the job. John is right on with his ideas. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Dave!

[Dandy Dave]

Gee John, How do the toasted marshmallows taste after starting the fire pit with that? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Dave!

[Ron Green]

I have cleaned and painted a few engines in place that turned out pretty good. You need to be careful what chemicals you use as it can keep the paint from adhering properly. Removing the hood helps a lot. As mention above I hand scrap as much as possible with an assortment of putty knifes, screwdrivers, etc.

I pull everything off the engine that is possible except the valve covers: fuel pump, hoses, carb, fan blade, shrouds, distributor, etc. Plug things tight with clean rags including bolt holes. Go over everything again that can be hand scraped. Get a decent finch or solvent brush, a couple gallons of laquer thinner and a coffee can to pour it in. I use gloves and a respirator when working with chemicals.

Put some old sheets underneath on the ground with a heavy layer of newspapers on top. Tape / mask off firewall, fender wells with paper, etc. Start on top at the intake manifold with the laquer thinner and start brushing it in /on heavy. Work it in to the grease and dirt. It will start dissolving the grease immediately along with removing the old paint. Keep laquer thinner applied at all times and change when it gets extremely dirty. Most of it will evaporate.

Slowly work your way down to the bottom of the engine. Repeat this process 2 or 3 times and your engine will be down to bare metal and ready to paint. Pull the valve covers and bead-blast them if possible. Hand clean the area where they were removed and mask the rockers. Now pick a good paint that will last so you won't have to do this again for many years. Paint from Bill Hirsch will even take a direct hit from gas a few times without marring.

[Guest n1gzd]

I haver already bought my paint from Hirsch auto.

Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. I am planning on blasting the valve cover. While the valve cover is off is there anything important for me to check/lub before trying to crank the engine (plugs out first time)?

PS: My carburetor, generator, starter, fuel/vacuum pump are all newly overhauled. I also sent out my vacuum motor but I did not get it back yet.

Rebecca

[Guest imported_JPIndusi]

With the valve cover off, locate the oil line and fitting from the oil filter to the front of the cylinder head. Loosen the fitting and pull back the line. There is a little pipe, with two bends, that goes from this fitting on the inside to the rocker shaft. This little pipe feeds oil from the filter to the rocker shaft. Remove the pipe, make sure the pipe is clear, then from the outside feed a short thin copper wire or other such and be sure it goes through the fitting on the head to where the little pipe connects. This will be sure that there is a clear path for the oil to feed the rocker shaft.

Joe, BCA 33493

[Guest n1gzd]

Thanks for the excellent tip.

Rebecca

[Bhigdog]

Rebecca, I'm not trying to second guess anyone here but be aware that lacquer thinner is extremely flammable and it's vapors besides being toxic, are, in the right air/vapor mixture, EXPLOSIVE. There are many effective water soluble or emulsifyable cleaners out there that will do the job. Please think about not using thinner, especially in the dry winter air where a static electricity spark could easily turn deadly........Bob.

[old-tank]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Rebecca, I'm not trying to second guess anyone here but be aware that lacquer thinner is extremely flammable and it's vapors besides being toxic, are, in the right air/vapor mixture, EXPLOSIVE. There are many effective water soluble or emulsifyable cleaners out there that will do the job. Please think about not using thinner, especially in the dry winter air where a static electricity spark could easily turn deadly........Bob. </div></div>

Right on. Actually laquer thinner should not be used to "clean" anything that you want to paint. It will not remove oils from the surface; it just pushes it around. There are surface prep products made for this.

Willie

[Guest n1gzd]

I like that old type of non flamable brake cleaner that does not leave any residue because it comes in a spray can.

Rebecca

[Dandy Dave]

When you pull the valve cover you will want to clean the sluge from the inside of it as well as out side before bead blasting it. Some valve covers have baffels inside that are crankcase vents. If there are any in yours be sure that they are clean and that the abrasive will not stick to it or you will end up with the glass beads/ sand in the motor which would be very bad. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> High pressure wash/ steam clean it inside and out. You may find a lot of sluge in that old motor when you pull the valve cover. I have even pulled the pan off of a lot of old motors to get the sluge out of the bottom and to be sure that the deposits have not built up around the oil pump pickup screen and tube. It is not uncommon for older motors that have been run with Non Detergent Oil. Rebecca, What part of Mass are you from? The town that I live in borders Mass/ NY along State Route 23. Great Barrington is close. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Dave!

[64BuickCat]

What about a wad of aluminum foil with a duct tape "gasket?" It seems like a wad of foil would work to fill the space OK, the tape would provide a passable seal, and the whole would compress into nearly any shape.

[JohnD1956]

Like 10w40 once the coals are good and hot. Makes a heck of a oily buttered popcorn too...And the best part is you get it all to yourself. Honestly, no one else wants any!!! Go figure? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

JD

[JohnD1956]

In consideration of these posts, I'd agree that laquer Thinner is not a good cleaning agent. IMHO I would use it for taking any gloss off the paint that remained on the engine after the degreasing.

Also I would definitely recommend self etching primer on all stamped steel pieces before painting the entire engine with general primer and then the top coat. It's been my experience that heat resistant paint will not stay on stamped steel without it.

And when you get into all of that work, you might want to talk to a plasticote dealer. The plasticote is much more resistant to the fluids in the engine compartment and can be mixed in virtually any color.

JD

[Ron Green]

I have used laquer thinner and acetone for years with many engines and have never had a problem with paint adhering. Some are approaching 11 years since completion and still look good. It is an excellent grease remover. Yes you have to take precautions as with any chemicals it can be dangerous.

Years ago this is what most shops used before the new solvents were developed. There are many products that will do a decent job but I would bet oven cleaner, brake fluid, etc will leave plenty of residue behind. Etching as suggested works great, just don't try and wash / rub all the zinc off thinking it is dirt.

[Guest n1gzd]

#7 rubber stoppers (from most hardware stores hardware isle)

Here is a picture of my engine all stopped up"

http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image203.html

Rebecca

[Dandy Dave]

Rebeca, Your mission is to be sure that those manifold stud holes are blind holes and don't go in to the intake ,exaust chambers or you will need to plug them with some bolts. Also if you put a radiator hose clammp around the rag in the oil fill it will keep it from flying out or getting pushed in from the water pressure blast. Good Luck. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Dave!

[Guest n1gzd]

Thanks Dave. One more thing 57 Dodge Sweptside. Cool!!

Rebecca

[Dandy Dave]

Yeah, The old truck is under restoration and still needs a lot of work but it is very cool! I probably have the most 57 parts pickups of anyone around. They are tough to find as I think there was only about 13,000 total truck production for 57 and that is all models grouped together. Sweptsides were built one at a time in the special equipment group shop at the Dodge plant. Rumer has it that only about 1,150 were made in 57,58, and 59. 57's have a different nose than the 58's and 59's and the sweptside box was not made until late in the 57 production year. I have always wondered how many were made in 57 but I was told a number of years ago that Chryseler either did not have the information, or was unwilling to release it. Mine, when new, belonged to the Dellwood Hotel "Play ground of the Catskills" Purling NY and was traded for a VW pickup at Colonial Volks Wagon, Hudson NY, back in the 60's when the engine poped a rod out though the block. I have had it since the 70's and knew that it was different then but did not know the history until years later. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Dave!