Engine cranks but won't run

[Rodjaxx]

Stared my 88', put it in drive , went about 6" and quit running, would not start again.

Checked for fire at plug, none.

First thought was igntion module.

Put on spare module I thought was good.

Won't start.

Swaped modules with the one on my 90 Riv

Riv started Reatta NO

I changed fuel filter, have 46psi at fuel rail

Went to FSM "ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON'T RUN" 6E3-A-18 thru 25

ran all test in order, I come up with Bad ignition module

Swaped module from 90 Reatta

90 starts 88 don't

Used contact cleaner on module and connector plug

Same

Recleaned and very carefuly closed connector contacts

Still won't start

On Padgett's Page I see a Ignition Break Out Box. Is this the next step?

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I'm thinking the crankshaft position sensor. Had the same issue before.

[2seater]

Sounds like crank sensor as F14 suggested. I assume no check engine light?

[Rodjaxx]

The check engine light is on, but the check engine light on my other Reatta and the Riv also are on until the engine starts.

[AlanAnt]

Hi!

If you haven't already, my suggestion is to go to www.reatta.net and download the service manual for your year. Then go to the section about reading the service codes. You can read the codes without starting your car. That should be a good help in finding what's wrong without paying a fortune to a dealer or service place.

[Rodjaxx]

There are no codes for ECM, BCM or CRT

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Sounds like the crankshaft position sensor...I didn't get any codes either

[Guest kennyw]

Got two blocks from home and the same problem you have. Crank and no start. It was the crank sensor behind the [color:\\"white\\"] balancer as others have said. ken

[Guest F14CRAZY]

It's easiest to remove the balancer, though I was able to grind off part of the new bracket for the CPS and replace it without removing it. You will probably need a breaker bar and a 48'' pipe wrench. You can try putting the breaker bar on and hitting the starter but I found that unless its been off recently, it's not going to budge that way. No puller needed though...it'll fall off once you get the bolt off.

[Rodjaxx]

Boy, was that bolt tight. I had to use a 24" chain wrench and a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe to brake it loose, but I got it.

You guys were right, it was the sensor. See picture

[Guest F14CRAZY]

That'll do it . Good to hear you're back in commission, and that my prediction was right

[Rodjaxx]

Can this sensor go bad over time, what I mean is could a little piece have broke off and it still run, but badly-no power ect.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

They go bad by cracking, as you've seen. It's an intense envirnoment and the plastic just eventually goes bad. Shouldn't have to worry about it though now that you've got a new one fitted. I assume you got it ligned up so the "rings" won't touch it...?

Not sure what would happen if it failed or got disconnected when running. Padgett once said that he thinks the car will continue to run fine and its only needed for starting. He's more into the electronics of these cars than I am, but the CPS is a critical sensor...it sets the timing for the whole system. I suppose you would get a check engine light and on-screen notification if it failed while running...too bad the code can't be set without the engine actually running. I would try disconnecting it, but it's in an awfully bad spot .

If you do get an on-screen problem while driving, I'd suggest going into diagnostic mode and seeing what it is...nice to be able to do it while still driving. You could keep the code manual in the compartments or something and check it...if its the CPS, DON'T turn it off until you're in a good spot to mess with it.

[Duke]

Oh no when they go bad you know it. Changed my balancer because the rubber between the pulley and the hub went bad and I had a bad clatter when at idle. (side note: Don't buy made in china balancers) The first, made in china, replacment balancer pulley walked on the hub and cut a strand off the belt. That strand slapped the sensor car died right after, luckily I was able to coast to my shop. The Second, made in china, balancer grenaded unfortunatly for that one I had just stopped for a stop sign. That one might have been just the balancer, but it did destroy the sensor and there was no rough running it just died. The third, made in china, balancer threw a piece of the pulley and continued to run but rough and it would start, but the sensor didn't get damaged on that one. So I'm fairly certain that it won't run with out the sensor. Oh and I finally gave up on the made in china balancers, went to a salvage yard pulled a couple of pulleys picked the best one and it's been on there ever since. Figured a few bucks, and some time searching was alot better than the $210 that everyone wanted for the oem.

[Guest inthespot]

Question?? My '90 has 114,000 miles on it. Now when does the balancer and the CPS usually go out? Is this something that I should get and put on some Saturday so I'm covered for the next 100,000 or do you just wait till it happens when you don't want it to. That's what I usually do but do not want to be stuck out somewhere and have to depend on a local garage somewhere and pay what ever they decide to charge that day.

[harry yarnell]

There isn't any data that says that the harmonic balancer or the CPS will fail at a particular time. I'd just not worry about it. However you bay wish to eyeball the HB to see if the rubber is coming apart.

BTW, if the CPS does fail while driving, the car will act up (studder) or quit. It's the CAM sensor that will allow you to keep running if it fails.

[manikmekanik]

My HB/crank pulley was bad when I got the white '88 coupe, (Panikmekanik's), and only 1 other person knew what it was. He STILL would'nt outbid me, at the live auction we attended. I was able to drive it home, @ 35 miles, and subsequently replaced it with a Dorman part. No problems since.

When it's going bad, you MAY get an "Electrical problems" warning message, because the balancer slips, cuasing the alternator to spin too slowly to produce enough voltage/amperage to operate within specs of the ECC parameters.

Here's a photo of a bad one, although padgett has a better, (worse), example. I find it hard to believe HIS ran at all!

Nanomekanik just came home yesterday with a bad HB on the 87 Volvo. I had to order the part via web, $59.50, (eeuroparts.com), will arrive in a couple days. Her friends told her the alternator was bad, because the car would'nt charge-and the battery was dead. When she got home, we looked at it while still running, (they charged her battery to get it home-for ME to fix.), and I noticed the crank pulley wobbling violently. Alternator is okay, just needs HB/crank pulley.

[Rodjaxx]

Put on new sensor and the car runs better than it has for a year. It seems to have all it's power back, no shudder at 50 mph with cruise on and converter locked going up slight grade. I did put on a new fuel filter and clean all connecrors, I also put the old ignition modual back on it (no power was why I changed it last year)

Thanks to all for the help

[padgett]

Balancers that say "Made in China" in big letters on the front are and IMNSHO should be avoided. Might consider having Dale rebuild yours but he learned how much rubber it takes when he did mine. Can't beat the gaurentee.

[Guest kennyw]

AHH: you forgot to ask. A braker bar jammed into the frame with the right socket on it:::::: turn the ign. key half a second and the bolt unwinds itself. It goes back at 250 ft. lbs......ken

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Starter trick only worked for me (3 different Reattas) if the balancer was recently removed. Otherwise, it was too tight for the starter to turn off.

[padgett]

Spec may be 235 lb-ft, think the factory adds a few more for good luck. Have seen the starter trick work more times than not but sometimes you just need a 1/2" impact.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Padgett must be lucky

[Howard]

Sorry to hear about your balancer/CPS problems. Boy, do I know about them! My balancer failed and was replaced, however it seems that the metal "teeth" inside the balancer were slightly bent (you had to look very closely to see) and wore a small hole in the CPS. Twice! The first shop could not figure out what was wrong and was there 5 months. The second shop fixed it in a day. The car runs fine now, but now there is a "clang" like an exhaust pipe everytime I start the car. The exhaust just does not sound right and there is a the same "clang" vibration when the car is facing down an incline. I hope the second shop did not damage a motor mount or the motor mount cradle replacing the balancer. I've not had a chance to look in to it, but I hope your repair goes smoother than mine. It seems like a simple enough repair, but I guess a lot can go wrong.

[padgett]

No, I live in central Florida.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

oh, well, my bad

[2seater]

I don't believe there is a particular reason or mileage when the sensor may go bad, some last seemingly forever. I suspect it is repeated heat cool cycles and possibly a splash of water? The sensor generates two signals, and it is possible to lose one signal and the engine will continue to run, however, it will not restart. Both signals are needed for starting. The cam sensor could be discarded and the engine will start and run, although injector sequence may or not be off. I'm very glad you found the problem and the fix even improved the car.