Rodjaxx

Thanks, it was the relay. It had come out of it's brackey and fallen onto the ERG pipe and melted and shorted out

My 90 has been sitting for 2 mounths and the battery went dead. Charged it up and was dead next day. Though it was time for a new one. When I hooked up new battery I could hear ABS motor running. This is with the key off. I only let it run for about 1 1/2 min., then unpluged power to it. I would guess it's the perssure switch, but don't want to just start replacing parts. All I can find in past posts is what to test when the pump shuts off early and nothing about continually running.

I have 1990 Riviera, and 1988 and 1990 Reatta and know how to use the Self diagnostic. I just bought a 1995 Riviera I don't know if it has Self diagnostic. If there is Self diagnostic, how do you access it?

I didn't know that I had owned my dream cars until I got older. 55 Chevy Conv. (I was 17 yr old) 56 Chevy Conv (18) 57 Corvette (22) 57 Chevy (24) 67 GTO Conv. (29) 71 El Camino SS (35) And my real dream machine, a 1985 1 ton crew cab dully wtht a blown 454 and 21 in. wide rear tire.

I would take the speedo cable off at the trans. and use an electric drill on Dads 49 Chevy. The drill I had ran about 60 mph

Change the fuel filter. A clogged filter can make bad things happen. In 1999 I was driving my 1998 C3500 big block Chevy back to Seattle WA and the transmission would not shift automatically but when I shifted it manually it made a terrible BANG and the truck would not go over 55 MPH. Still under warranty I call the Chevy store and told them I was 300 miles from home and if the trucks transmission would last I would park it at the service area. They got a Mr. Goodwrench on the line and he ask me how meany miles I had on it and I said 42,000. He then asked when I last changed the fuel filter. Du I hadn't. He said put a new filter on and it will take care of all my problems. HE WAS RIGHT. Now when I get a used car (with the computers)the first thing I do is a new fuel filter and change them every 30,000 miles

Put on new sensor and the car runs better than it has for a year. It seems to have all it's power back, no shudder at 50 mph with cruise on and converter locked going up slight grade. I did put on a new fuel filter and clean all connecrors, I also put the old ignition modual back on it (no power was why I changed it last year) Thanks to all for the help

Can this sensor go bad over time, what I mean is could a little piece have broke off and it still run, but badly-no power ect.

Boy, was that bolt tight. I had to use a 24" chain wrench and a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe to brake it loose, but I got it. You guys were right, it was the sensor. See picture

There are no codes for ECM, BCM or CRT

I got a FENCO_REMAN BRAKE CALIPER - REAR for my Reatta at Autozone $47.99 I put the same brand on the front and rear of my 90 Riv-- 6 years and 75000 mi and no problems

The check engine light is on, but the check engine light on my other Reatta and the Riv also are on until the engine starts.

Stared my 88', put it in drive , went about 6" and quit running, would not start again. Checked for fire at plug, none. First thought was igntion module. Put on spare module I thought was good. Won't start. Swaped modules with the one on my 90 Riv Riv started Reatta NO I changed fuel filter, have 46psi at fuel rail Went to FSM "ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON'T RUN" 6E3-A-18 thru 25 ran all test in order, I come up with Bad ignition module Swaped module from 90 Reatta 90 starts 88 don't Used contact cleaner on module and connector plug Same Recleaned and very carefuly closed connector contacts Still won't start On Padgett's Page I see a Ignition Break Out Box. Is this the next step?

Thanks, I finally found one at NAPA but it's called a "noid" light

Can anyone tell me how to make injector test lights (J34730-2)

This is a picture of starting the first broken screw, you can see the other in the foreground, it's out of focus. I used SS 10-32 hex screws This picture looks better than first

Yes, and they work fine, no play or wiggle

I?m posting this to see what other Reatta owners think of my repair of the headlight Bellcrank. I recently bought a 90 with bad Bellcranks (the slotted hole was completely wore out and it spun freely on the shaft) and I?m a retired Tool and Die Maker with a small machine shop with a CNC mill. I wrote a program to make a ¼? thick steel insert that has the slotted hole (.375 dia. with .265 flats) with the outside approximately 5/8? x 3/4?. I then did a program for the old Bellcrank to make a pocket to match the insert. (.0005 press) This setup works well, with no problems and should last the rest of my life. I also made a fixture to locate and clamp the motor/gear housing and a program to remove, resize the hole for a 10-32 screw for two screws that broke while disassembling for bushing replacement. If anybody has old bellcranks that would sell to me for $5.00 a pair + shipping please email me at rodjaxx@msn.com I would like to make up about 20 pairs and offer them for sale at $25.00 each or $40.00 a pair. I?m sure the all steel replacement I see here will work just as well, they don?t look stock.

I just ran a MPG test on my wife's 90 Riv. I filled it up with Reg gas last month, set the trip and noted the price of Reg @ $1.999 and Premium @ $2.199 a gal. Week befor last filled up with Premium and took the # of gal. x $1.999 and that cost was divided by the miles driven (all in town,milk store,post office, ect.)for a cost of $.1196 per mile. Today I filled up again and took the # of gal. x $2.199 and that cost was divided by the miles driven (all in town,milk store,post office, ect. again) for a cost of $.1108 per mile. I did this back in 1999 with my, then new, 1998 1 ton Chevy truck on a trip from Seattle to St. Louis with the same results (it seems 2 or 3 cents better)

Can somebody tell me if my many problems can be related: #1 Bad mileage (12 MPG) #2 A BAD shudder with the torque converter locked and cruise on(48mph/1350rpm real bad, 65mph/1750 not quiet as bad, even on level road and worse on a grade) #3 CRT screen has developed (last week)a 1/2" distorted line across the screen, iteds in the destorted area still work when touched. #4 Pass door ajar comes on when door is closed, if I open door and hand trip the latch I won't get an error What I have done: New coil New Plat. Delco plugs New plug wires New Ox sensor New Air filter New Fuel filter New Vacum lines (I had driven the car from NY to Illinois, about 1,000 miles with no cruise. When I got home and checked out the cruise I found a vac. line burned into) From F14CRAZY's post "$1,185.98. Still not fixed" I suspect the ECM may be bad, but before I buy a reman. one and install it are any of my promlems going to screw up the new one? Thanks Rich

Just had to replace some of the rear lines on my 88 They are not SAE double flare, they are Metric bubble flare

Thanks for the info Like I said, I just got the car and have not found out what/where all the bells and whistles are yet. I guess the guy that owned before me didn't know about the switch either and pulled the fuse. I probably will be asking more dumb questions soon. Thanks again Rich

Just got a '88 and the cigarette lighter didn't work--checked and replaced the fuse and it works just fine, only problem is the headlights pop up and stay up as long as the cigarette lighter fuse is in -- pull the fuse and they go down i don't know where to start tracking down the problem Thanks Rich