Rodjaxx

Thanks, it was the relay. It had come out of it's brackey and fallen onto the ERG pipe and melted and shorted out

My 90 has been sitting for 2 mounths and the battery went dead. Charged it up and was dead next day. Though it was time for a new one. When I hooked up new battery I could hear ABS motor running. This is with the key off. I only let it run for about 1 1/2 min., then unpluged power to it. I would guess it's the perssure switch, but don't want to just start replacing parts. All I can find in past posts is what to test when the pump shuts off early and nothing about continually running.

I have 1990 Riviera, and 1988 and 1990 Reatta and know how to use the Self diagnostic. I just bought a 1995 Riviera I don't know if it has Self diagnostic. If there is Self diagnostic, how do you access it?

I didn't know that I had owned my dream cars until I got older. 55 Chevy Conv. (I was 17 yr old) 56 Chevy Conv (18) 57 Corvette (22) 57 Chevy (24) 67 GTO Conv. (29) 71 El Camino SS (35) And my real dream machine, a 1985 1 ton crew cab dully wtht a blown 454 and 21 in. wide rear tire.

I would take the speedo cable off at the trans. and use an electric drill on Dads 49 Chevy. The drill I had ran about 60 mph

Change the fuel filter. A clogged filter can make bad things happen. In 1999 I was driving my 1998 C3500 big block Chevy back to Seattle WA and the transmission would not shift automatically but when I shifted it manually it made a terrible BANG and the truck would not go over 55 MPH. Still under warranty I call the Chevy store and told them I was 300 miles from home and if the trucks transmission would last I would park it at the service area. They got a Mr. Goodwrench on the line and he ask me how meany miles I had on it and I said 42,000. He then asked when I last changed the fuel filter. Du I hadn't. He said put a new filter on and it will take care of all my problems. HE WAS RIGHT. Now when I get a used car (with the computers)the first thing I do is a new fuel filter and change them every 30,000 miles

Put on new sensor and the car runs better than it has for a year. It seems to have all it's power back, no shudder at 50 mph with cruise on and converter locked going up slight grade. I did put on a new fuel filter and clean all connecrors, I also put the old ignition modual back on it (no power was why I changed it last year) Thanks to all for the help

Can this sensor go bad over time, what I mean is could a little piece have broke off and it still run, but badly-no power ect.

Boy, was that bolt tight. I had to use a 24" chain wrench and a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe to brake it loose, but I got it. You guys were right, it was the sensor. See picture

There are no codes for ECM, BCM or CRT

I got a FENCO_REMAN BRAKE CALIPER - REAR for my Reatta at Autozone $47.99 I put the same brand on the front and rear of my 90 Riv-- 6 years and 75000 mi and no problems

The check engine light is on, but the check engine light on my other Reatta and the Riv also are on until the engine starts.

Stared my 88', put it in drive , went about 6" and quit running, would not start again. Checked for fire at plug, none. First thought was igntion module. Put on spare module I thought was good. Won't start. Swaped modules with the one on my 90 Riv Riv started Reatta NO I changed fuel filter, have 46psi at fuel rail Went to FSM "ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON'T RUN" 6E3-A-18 thru 25 ran all test in order, I come up with Bad ignition module Swaped module from 90 Reatta 90 starts 88 don't Used contact cleaner on module and connector plug Same Recleaned and very carefuly closed connector contacts Still won't start On Padgett's Page I see a Ignition Break Out Box. Is this the next step?

Thanks, I finally found one at NAPA but it's called a "noid" light

Can anyone tell me how to make injector test lights (J34730-2)