Duke

I've been lucky in that respect. (knock on wood) I've actually had it die close enough to the my shop that I coasted to it. Another time it made it right in the driveway. The worst was about 5 min away at a stop sign would have took it but there was traffic.

Its like what I always say. Why buy a new car when there is spare parts around for the one you already love? Yet, yours is more pretty. And mine came about because I'm poor and enjoy working on things. Finishing them is another story.

I would think since the piston draws the air in much like a pump it would be wise to reduce vacum created by the air being drawn in. IE: bigger throttle body, and less restrictive air cleaner assymbly. As for atomization of the fuel I'd look in to injectors. IE: Timing, pressure, and spray pattern. I seen a nitros plate comparison that has several systems dumping the same amount of nitros yet some proved greatly better because of its spray pattern. Other than that if the air is churning or not only so much fuel will mix with so much air.

I'm not a brainiac just a dreamer (I reserve the right to claim the title of brainiac when I get it to work ) If I do get it to work though it would be able to just about any engine that you could swap, and it could have boost controls for super/turbocharging. Also the possibility to have a built in dyno with easy to use tuning. And not to forget the security of knowing that unless thieves load it on a flat bed it ain't going anywhere with out the palm (that could also be a bad thing too). Oh well, all of this is a long way off for me, but if anyone else runs with the idea and gets it to work or finds out some reason why it wouldn't work feel free to tell me.

I was thinking of trying to make a palm work as an ecm. And then set up the docking station as a link so that when the palm is hooked up it'll run and when you take the palm out there is no ecm so the car wouldn't work. I've seen palms with aldl cables, and there are programs small emough to run on palms that can emulate an ecm. I just wander how well it would work.

If it runs at higher rpms, but dies at idle check out the cam position sensor. Mine would stumble and carry on at idle and die if left idle a bit, but as long as I gave it a bit of gas it would level out and run smoother. It also felt hesitant when accelerating. Think Padgett had a post on JB welding it. Hope that helps.

Hum no Opel Speedster Turbo? Ofcourse I'd like to see it with more than 200 hp and have it slip through the cracks if not emissions legal.

Oh no when they go bad you know it. Changed my balancer because the rubber between the pulley and the hub went bad and I had a bad clatter when at idle. (side note: Don't buy made in china balancers) The first, made in china, replacment balancer pulley walked on the hub and cut a strand off the belt. That strand slapped the sensor car died right after, luckily I was able to coast to my shop. The Second, made in china, balancer grenaded unfortunatly for that one I had just stopped for a stop sign. That one might have been just the balancer, but it did destroy the sensor and there was no rough running it just died. The third, made in china, balancer threw a piece of the pulley and continued to run but rough and it would start, but the sensor didn't get damaged on that one. So I'm fairly certain that it won't run with out the sensor. Oh and I finally gave up on the made in china balancers, went to a salvage yard pulled a couple of pulleys picked the best one and it's been on there ever since. Figured a few bucks, and some time searching was alot better than the $210 that everyone wanted for the oem.

If you don't already have a cd player you'll more than likly need a harness. If you plan on using a 95 riviera cd player you'll have to alter that harness, Or buy a 90-91 they'll work. I bought a 95 and used my 90 case which had a good plug board and changed the internals. So far it's working great. I'm not sure about the years between 91 to 95 but I'd assume they could be modified to fit. Once you open the case look for a sticker on the board that has the plugs if the sticker reads 2933 it should work. Hope this helps.

I'm confused. Who is willing to sell their reatta? Mine could be rolled, set on fire, and for good measures keyed. I'd probably still hold out hope that I could fix it, or atleast buy another. So what does it matter what magazines try to say are proper resale values. If the car is worth the money people will pay(They might sometimes even if it isn't worth it too).

Mine had an odd sound only when shifting from drive to reverse or vice versa. It turned out to be the engine cradle mounts. They rotted out and was allowing it to shift abit. Don't remember how much they cost but they were a pain to get out. Easiest way to tell is have someone watch and listen. My clunk was under the radiator a piece of plastic was popping, and while in the car it sounded like tranny or worse.

I'm 23 I've had my Reatta for about 5 years now. My Grandmother was the one who got me hooked on them. She bought hers in 88 white with maroon interior, oh she's 85 now. She told my dad and mom she was getting a new car, and everyone thought it would be some big luxury car like a lincoln or caddy, but then she comes pulling in with a little two seater. About 6 years ago I was with out a car for about a month and she let me borrow her reatta since she was having health problems and couldn't drive it. Needless to say within a year I found a 90 light drift wood with cd, and sunroof and when I went to buy it I learned it was being kept at Larry Birds house in French Lick - West Baden. It wasn't his car though, he let the caretaker of his estates store his cars there. Yet its funny to say I went and bought my car at Larry Bird's house. These days I still enjoy my Reatta although I have a bit to fix up on it. Replacing the rear struts and rebushing all the suspension is my current project. Its been reliable and even with shabby suspension it still rides decent. So far the only major problems I've had was the transaxle needed rebuilt, had first and second but drive/overdrive was gone, and harmonic balancer. For the love of god don't buy made in china after market balancers. I went through 3 in a month everyone of them just grenaded and took out the crank sensor ended up buying a used one from a salvage yard still works fine. The funny part is the only reason I changed from the original was the rubber between the pulley and the hub gave out and it chattered during idle. Hum think I slid off topic, oh well. Hope ya'll enjoy my ramblings.

I'm not sure why they bothered to do the article now, but I hope buick sees it and brings the reatta back with all the short comings fixed. I can see it now the reatta running a new fuel injected version 455 stage 1 with a gs styled hood wieghing in at 2900lbs with all the performance parts avaliable, and the heck with touch screen it'll all be voice controlled . Ofcourse won't do me any good if they did, well not until there are affordable used cars around. Sucks being poor, and/or Thrifty (other words cheap).

My god spinners on a Reatta. I'll leave it at that.

I've seen a drag strip reatta before. I don't think you can really call it a reatta since the only thing that looked stock was the windows, and I think marker lights. Ah heres a picture.