Tomas Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Hi Can someone please guide me in this. I got scratch marks as you see in the pic and I think that new bearings will help. It is a serie 80 Roadmaster and I look in the shop manual but I still dont get it how i do it step by step. Does shaft has a bolt on the inner end? I need to open there and loose it, then pull the shaft out? I really need some advice /Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 (edited) 1) Get a shop manual. Do you have a lot of slop in the wheel bearings? Can you move the wheel up/down by hand indicating bearing slop? A little in/out slop at the axle is normal. You'll see why when you take it apart, if you take it apart. Short version of wheel bearing replacement: Drain axle, remove pan at center, remove whatever is holding the spider gear shaft in, probably a pin/bolt thing with a smaller head, 1/2" approx. Rotate differential case as necessary and slide spider gear shaft out, catching any spider gears, shims, etc that it is holding in, and also the center block. I HIGHLY recommend keeping track of any shims and keeping them isolated with the gear they came from. Remove block (if it didn't fall out) and any remaining spider gear parts. With block out, slide axle(s) *in* a little for clearance at the center. Remove cotter pins (if used) and nuts from axle(s), slide axle(s) out. Side gears are loose now, and can be removed if you want. I'd just slide them back in all the way because there are probably more shims you would need to keep track of if you removed them. Now with the axle(s) out of the way, you can see the seals and bearings. They are "Hyatt" style bearings as used by GM clear into the late 70s and probably more recent than that. Not exactly the same bearings though. You should have new correct bearing(s) and seals for this car in your hand before you go any further. Bearings from that era might be a problem. There may be replaceable inner race(s) on the axle(s). Look closely. See if the bearing runs directly on the axle, probably not in 1936, but on later Hyatt bearing equipped cars it definitely did run directly on the axle. Obtain new inner race(s) or usable axle(s) if necessary. Fashion some kind of a puller or *maybe* use a 3 legged expanding slide hammer attachment to get the bearing(s) and seal(s) out. Drive new parts in with correct size bearing drivers. Reassemble. Refill with gear oil. If there were brass or bronze bushings in there, get some oil that is safe for "yellow metals". That is a detail the shop manual won't cover. No brass/bronze in there? Then just get some ordinary "GL-5" rear axle type oil. And get a shop manual. Yes I said that twice. I hate to be like that, but it matters. Now the important part. That "scrape" doesn't really look like wheel bearing trouble to me. Are the wheels stock and the tires the correct size? If so, look at whatever holds the axle in the car in the side to side direction. It is probably the spring shackles. Unlike most cars, there are probably shackles at both the front and the back of the leaf springs on this car. Likely at least some of them are greasable screw bushings that might be worn out. Others could be rubber, and that is even more likely to be shot. If(?) the car has a panhard rod, a sideways bar behind the axle with one end connected to the frame and the other end to the axle, check it's bushings very closely. I don't think you have this, but if you do, it is the first place to look. With more information about what is going on, maybe we can help. Good luck with your project. Edited March 30 by Bloo (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 (edited) Download the 1942 Buick shop manual for free. All of it section by section. Or click the pdf link to pay. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Buick/1942/Shop Manual/ It is very comprehensive and has information that can be used with all straight 8’s. It has more information than was included in older “Shop Manuals” before 1942 No idea how close 1936 is 1942 for the rear axle. But will be a guide To me the marks from the tires are more to do with suspension. Your wheel - tire size today may be different to originals in 1936 Edited March 30 by 1939_Buick (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 (edited) 23 minutes ago, 1939_Buick said: No idea how close 1936 is 1942 for the rear axle. But will be a guide Good idea. Unfortunately little if any parts interchange, but outside of that the design is similar. That 1942 book goes in to much more detail than the earlier ones, making it quite useful sometimes even for Buicks it does not quite match. This is, I think, the rear axle design that ended in 1937 on the 80 series. That said, the most radical change was from spiral bevel gears (torque tube intersects the ring gear at the center) to hypoid gears (torque tube intersects the ring gear at the bottom). Edited March 30 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Thanks for answer 👍 I have the shop manual, but im still confused 🙄 I going to read tor advice here, im sure it will clear up 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 I very much doubt that a bearing is responsible for that scrape. Fat tires and/or wheels with the wrong offset might be the cause but one would think it would be similar on both sides. Is the radius bar bent? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 I start to agree. The detective in me belive it was the old stiff tires from -81 that was semi-flat and the previous owner moved it / drove a short trip. The old hard tires flat part did this before he filled it up with air. The car is brand new to me so we start to getting know each other. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 The tires are Firestone 7.00-16 as it should be. Im very thankful for all answers and its very useful to me because it leaks oil at the left axle end so i need to do all work anyway to change the seal and when im there a new bearing as well. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 19 hours ago, Bloo said: 1) Get a shop manual. Do you have a lot of slop in the wheel bearings? Can you move the wheel up/down by hand indicating bearing slop? A little in/out slop at the axle is normal. You'll see why when you take it apart, if you take it apart. Short version of wheel bearing replacement: Drain axle, remove pan at center, remove whatever is holding the spider gear shaft in, probably a pin/bolt thing with a smaller head, 1/2" approx. Rotate differential case as necessary and slide spider gear shaft out, catching any spider gears, shims, etc that it is holding in, and also the center block. I HIGHLY recommend keeping track of any shims and keeping them isolated with the gear they came from. Remove block (if it didn't fall out) and any remaining spider gear parts. With block out, slide axle(s) *in* a little for clearance at the center. Remove cotter pins (if used) and nuts from axle(s), slide axle(s) out. Side gears are loose now, and can be removed if you want. I'd just slide them back in all the way because there are probably more shims you would need to keep track of if you removed them. Now with the axle(s) out of the way, you can see the seals and bearings. They are "Hyatt" style bearings as used by GM clear into the late 70s and probably more recent than that. Not exactly the same bearings though. You should have new correct bearing(s) and seals for this car in your hand before you go any further. Bearings from that era might be a problem. There may be replaceable inner race(s) on the axle(s). Look closely. See if the bearing runs directly on the axle, probably not in 1936, but on later Hyatt bearing equipped cars it definitely did run directly on the axle. Obtain new inner race(s) or usable axle(s) if necessary. Fashion some kind of a puller or *maybe* use a 3 legged expanding slide hammer attachment to get the bearing(s) and seal(s) out. Drive new parts in with correct size bearing drivers. Reassemble. Refill with gear oil. If there were brass or bronze bushings in there, get some oil that is safe for "yellow metals". That is a detail the shop manual won't cover. No brass/bronze in there? Then just get some ordinary "GL-5" rear axle type oil. And get a shop manual. Yes I said that twice. I hate to be like that, but it matters. Now the important part. That "scrape" doesn't really look like wheel bearing trouble to me. Are the wheels stock and the tires the correct size? If so, look at whatever holds the axle in the car in the side to side direction. It is probably the spring shackles. Unlike most cars, there are probably shackles at both the front and the back of the leaf springs on this car. Likely at least some of them are greasable screw bushings that might be worn out. Others could be rubber, and that is even more likely to be shot. If(?) the car has a panhard rod, a sideways bar behind the axle with one end connected to the frame and the other end to the axle, check it's bushings very closely. I don't think you have this, but if you do, it is the first place to look. With more information about what is going on, maybe we can help. Good luck with your project. Just need to say rhat was a first class answer 👍. As a just mentioned here I think its was the old tires. Going to take a ride tomorrow with paint on the rubber to see if its still there after /Tom 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 6 hours ago, Tomas said: it leaks oil at the left axle end so i need to do all work anyway to change the seal and when im there a new bearing as well. One thing to consider when you remove the seals is the type of seal that is in there now. They might(?) be felt or leather. I don't recall when Buick switched to modern rubber lip seals. Some cars of that era (my 36 Pontiac included) have no vent in the differential. This worked because the leather or felt seals would let the pressure created by heat out. Modern lip seals will not and they will leak, maybe even pop out. If the originals are felt/leather and you replace all of them with modern lip seals, and if there is no vent, you will have to add one. Look for a vent. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 Thanks! Great knowledge! I have both versions new(felt and rubber) Stock is felt, maby the change it erlier to a rubber…? Many that course the leak. Any how i feel prepared for the seal job then i also see what kind I have mounted on the car 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 FYI, here are a few pictures of what my '38 Century looked like when I changed my axle seals and bearings... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 My Buick rear tire rubbed just like yours. I replaced both rear springs and had the shocks rebuilt to solve it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 My first thought was loose lug bolts - that'll also cause a wobbly wheel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 8 hours ago, Gary W said: My Buick rear tire rubbed just like yours. I replaced both rear springs and had the shocks rebuilt to solve it. Is it also a Buick -36? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomas Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 8 hours ago, EmTee said: FYI, here are a few pictures of what my '38 Century looked like when I changed my axle seals and bearings... Thanks, not exactly the same but it gives me some info anyway 👍👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 (edited) 3 hours ago, Tomas said: Is it also a Buick -36 I have a ‘37. Ended up replacing both rear leaf springs. New set from Eaton and they are great. Be sure you torque them to spec when installed and check again after a couple hundred miles. Once all my suspension parts were restored/replaced, I think the best thing I did was to take the car to the “Front End Shop“ in Farmingdale for a four-wheel alignment. Amazing how beautifully she runs after that. Here’s how I bought the car. The rear leaf is cracked and protruding though the gaiter. search my restoration for “springtime”. The whole process is documented... just touch the arrow! gary Edited April 1 by Gary W (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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