Dave Myers Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I had to change the ignition and Coil wire and coil, from original to a Delco replacement. I have the battery wire going to Bat on the ignition switch and... To Coil Wire, Fuel Gage Wire, Starter wire, and one more wire going to IGN on ignition switch. That's all, but no spark through coil...... What am I doing wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 We may need a bit more info. Battery wire goes to Bat terminal on the switch. there should be one marked IGN. this goes to coil. Do you have 6 volts on the + terminal on the coil with the switch on? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Myers Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Yes, I replaced the wire going to the coil. It has 6.3 volts going to the + side of the coil, and nothing going through the coil. When I removed the old switch, the coil wire was sealed in steel and I removed it from the ignition switch and also the old coil. I replaced the coil with a new 6 volt coil recommended for the car from NAPA. There are a total of 5 wires to the ignition switch. #1... with 6.3 power in, #2... turns on the fuel gage, #3... 6.3 volts to the coil, #4. allows the starter to crank when gas pedal is pressed. #5... I have no idea what it does..... Thanks for you post, anything else I can tell you? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 (edited) So you have 6 volts to the + terminal of the coil nothing going through the coil? What does nothing going though the coil mean? How many volts on the - terminal of the coil? Should be 6 volts with the points open, and 0 volts with the points closed. Edited January 29 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Myers Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 That's what I thought. After getting no spark to the points, I unhooked to wire going from the coil to the distributor and checked again with the power on to the + side and still nothing, no power, no reading through the coil. Maybe the brand new coil is bad......?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 (edited) Sounds like it. If you've got 6v on + and nothing on - with the wire to the distributor disconnected, that coil is bad. This is checking + to ground, and then - to ground with the meter. Edited January 29 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Myers Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 That sounds logical, Thanks for the help, I'll try to find out or just get another coil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 When the points are open each side of the coil should read 6v. When the points are closed the point side of the coil should read 0v as the points should be connecting that terminal to ground. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Myers Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Ok now…. Bought another new coil and it’s working fine now. Thanks for your help 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 18 minutes ago, Dave Myers said: Ok now…. Bought another new coil and it’s working fine now. Thanks for your help Great news! Thanks for the follow-up. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 As a mechanic for more than 60 years I have encountered defective brand new parts, especially thermostats and rebuilt starters and generators. and rebuilt master cylinders exchanged at the parts dealers stores. The MOT banded the rebuilding of master cylinders and wheel cylinders even at NAPA. This was done after some accidents caused by rebuilds. Rebuild shops have gone out of business. In a recent thread I cautioned about rebuilding of master and wheel cylinders at home garage. Some home mechanics will use a hone to clean the cylinders. Did he measure the oversize bore ? Will the new rubber seals fit properly ? How long is it going to last ? Are new seals made in Chinneusam safe ? A cylinder bushed by a machinist is honed to original size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Myers Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 Thank you for that information. I’ll keep that in mind if I have issues with that stuff. Right now I hope to find the timing mark so I will be able to check that. I think it’s pretty close but I have never seen it up to this point. It’s good to have 60 year mechanics around when you’re working on 84 year old cars. I have been a machinist for about as long as you have been a mechanic. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 We see lots of new coil failures today.......I test mine for a few hours before installing. Same goes for electric fuel pumps.......everything today is junk. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 4 hours ago, edinmass said: We see lots of new coil failures today.......I test mine for a few hours before installing. Same goes for electric fuel pumps.......everything today is junk. But it is cheap and easy!!😁 Ed, care to share your testing protocol? Ben 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now