Jump to content

1927 Buick 27-27


Recommended Posts

On 7/21/2024 at 3:26 PM, Slawnski said:

Here are the bumpers that came on the other car. 
 

IMG_6707.jpeg.c6b2948483609eba236d639fbe29359c.jpegIMG_6709.jpeg.f5b64ba03ba8f3a9d6b6ccd23b1e6ccb.jpeg

The same 1927 bumpers I bought to install on my 1925 Standard. The rears were able to be polished up and left alone. I had the front powdercoated.

DSCF7573.JPG.267638667173e03766947d9552a922f4.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

The same 1927 bumpers I bought to install on my 1925 Standard. The rears were able to be polished up and left alone. I had the front powdercoated.

DSCF7573.JPG.267638667173e03766947d9552a922f4.JPG

Now you’re talking! Didn’t think of powdercoating- did you have the pieces coated separately then assemble? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Pulled the parking brake linings today. I used a small band sander to grind the backs down and punched them through.
 

The two rivets at the ends were solid copper- I’m not sure if hollow brass robots will be adequate. I’ll need to measure and order copper or brass rivets- these are much longer and a larger diameter. I used the same sander to grind away the lining side of these 4 rivits then took a hefty punch and more percussive persuasion than I though it would take to drive them out. 
 

IMG_6869.jpeg.a33dd1caa1616174a24340e182827c79.jpegIMG_6870.jpeg.e0a41a66b39c2d3a0400b5122c77baca.jpegIMG_6871.jpeg.3ad4d045fd767aa7319684c8378a8cc0.jpegIMG_6873.jpeg.71a5414e71554e6c51cb294cfc525a2f.jpegIMG_6875.jpeg.cafd2abfbe16cf24432634546bcb6ff0.jpeg

 

IMG_6874.jpeg

Edited by Slawnski
Stupid typo’s (see edit history)
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the record the degreaser only made the brake linings pretty nasty to handle as I drilled and removed rivets. It  did nothing to cut the grease. Would not recommend. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hit all the bolts screws fasteners I could on the spare/parts car. Pulled the valve cover- that non detergent oil really does a good job of keeping oiled parts free of corrosion. 
 

Carb is different than the one I have on the 27-27. 
 

Plugs were all hand tight and the cylinders look about as good as 27-27’s cylinders are. I’ll peek in there with a scope next time I hit the fasteners. I’m hopeful I’ve got another descent engine. Oil barely registered on the dipstick but theres oil in it. I’ve got a few ideas for this one…
 

IMG_6876.jpeg.cdb4f5541fe30ddcf7ea17308ace726d.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Slawnski said:

Now you’re talking! Didn’t think of powdercoating- did you have the pieces coated separately then assemble? 

Yes. Brackets done in semigloss black. The bumperetts were also done in the "Chrome look silver" they had. Then I painted the depressed areas in black and red. I had my 1925 Master's "WEED" bumper done in a similar fashion.

DSC01427.JPG.680c9e4cd69e85f4d0c6d20141a270d9.jpg.abab6972ab4f3610ad2f98d4017e8137.jpg

Edited by dibarlaw
spelling (see edit history)
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Slawnski said:

 

Carb is different than the one I have on the 27-27. 

 

Yes, that carb is an after-market fits-all replacement. Jon "Carb King" could be much more specific about it.

Buick's Marvel carbs had a tendency to be problematical, especially when the cars got a bit old and were used by people that didn't care to take the trouble to sort them out. Usually, those undersize after-market carbs made things worse instead of better.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/20/2024 at 6:00 PM, Slawnski said:
Quote

Fun trip today. The ad photos were just a weeee bit lacking. But to be fair the person I was working with was handling the cleaning and dispersal of her fathers estate. This is a 1927 Buick 27-20. 

The good:

drivetrain is mostly complete 

comes with front and rear bumpers as well as new/ replacement bumper brackets

A very nice Motometer was included

4 additional wood wheels

Descent gauges (?)

New steering wheel 

Box of other parts I’ve yet to go through

decent discount on the price based on tank and radiator. 

 

 

Not to mention you now have a spare frame!😁

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, bradsan said:

Not to mention you now have a spare frame!😁

 

Right?! A wee bit late to get it under this 27-27-now that I’ve done the repairs. To think just a couple months earlier and I would have been tearing the parts car down to scavenge the frame! Timing is everything 🙂 

 

The ‘ol mind is buzzing a bit with the possibilities of what I can do with the parts car. I’ve gotta focus on getting the 27-27 completed before I dig too deep into another 27 Buick, but that engine/transmission cart I put together will be put to use not long after I get the power plant back into the finished frame- hoping to get the engine and transmission back into this frame in a few weeks. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Yes. Brackets done in semigloss black. The bumperetts were also done in the "Chrome look silver" they had. Then I painted the depressed areas in black and red. I had my 1925 Master's "WEED" bumper done in a similar fashion.

DSC01427.JPG.680c9e4cd69e85f4d0c6d20141a270d9.jpg.abab6972ab4f3610ad2f98d4017e8137.jpg

Man…. You do good work dibarlaw! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next to do the rear bumper. The WEED bumpers are quite a puzzle for dissasembly/assembly. I took photos of the front as I removed it and still had a problem when reinstalling. OH... I took photos! Problem resolved. Now to do the same with the rear.

DSCF5656.JPG.3ec3b64e5b04c54725d983e1c3557377.JPG 

Photo taken the day after I brought the car home in Sept. 2016.

 Having learned about total dissasembly of a car with my 1937 Buick

DSCF1342.JPG.30b1a39f25892f661e67d0b95cc693c1.JPG

(that I had sitting on jack stands for 25 years) with my 1925s I chose to do one or 2 items at a time so as not to fall in the trap again. This way I have been able to DRIVE my cars. This 1925 Master was laid up for over 5 years while sourcing some parts and services. Not having shop space to do a full tear down may be a good thing for me. I was 31 years old when I bought my 1937 in 1987.  57 years old when we finally got that car back on the road. We got to enjoy it for over 10,000 more miles and 8 more years untill a T bone accident in 2021 took it from us. I need to get more enjoyment miles on them with the time I have left to do so.

Your progress is amazing and I am enjoying your journey account.

Edited by dibarlaw (see edit history)
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My rear bumpers are split / left right. The main bar/ mount is broken in a couple spots but will be an easy repair.  
 

I have a 39 Buick awaiting “ the full treatment.” How uncanny! Mine is a series 81. It’s been on stands for 15 months so far- looking for a fuel door if anybody knows of one laying around. 

 

Heart wrenching to lose a car after taking so much time and care. I will most likely take a break between the 27 and the 39 and do something that isnt this involved, but I’ll do something. If you rest-you rust. 
 

Having this community and forum really helps keep me on track. 
 

IMG_0720.jpeg.3007e07a82b09dd7205f23d04d67780b.jpegIMG_0744.jpeg.b6816aaeeab055296c427af2f7cd8ef9.jpegIMG_0724.jpeg.6782da7daf95c0d8b7e73141c2f00d88.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Slawnski said:

...looking for a fuel door if anybody knows of one laying around. 

Maybe try calling Dave Tachney . I believe he is located in the state of Minnesota. The problem is he is best reached by phone at 763-427-3460 between 4:00 and 7:00 pm in the US Central Time Zone.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Prepping for paint today- masking and final cleaning / adding backer rod to holes that receive rods. I leave the old grease fittings in and replace with new after paint. 

IMG_7037.jpeg.2eda36f59116af981b81d8ffc148ae72.jpeg


IMG_7036.jpeg.fe754df5773a36c6ae48ebeb17d29a3f.jpeg

 

Tape wasn’t sticking to one of the outer band brake lining material rings and I kept trying to convince myself that was ok knowing it’s not.

 

Sigh…. Ordered lining for the outer brake bands as well as the longer rivers for the inner parking brake band ends from McMaster. They’ll be here Friday/saturday.
 

I’ll peel these liners off tomorrow and epoxy prime everything. just means I’ll have 4 liners to install instead of just 2. Keeping in mind fronts were excellent. Rear seals were just leaking oil and soaked the linings back there. Parking brake linings got the worst of it but they are all too oily to retain. No sense in trying to cut corners at this point. A stitch in time saves nine… 
 

IMG_7038.jpeg.bb4c70b5fd938b23e742f13c518efa2d.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Slawnski said:

The ‘ol mind is buzzing a bit with the possibilities of what I can do with the parts car. 

Hmm........maybe a 1927 Buick-based speedster? That would be pretty neat. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Folks Been following Slawnski's  renovation..Great work but when do you sleep?

I started a renovation. at Easter but hit a problem.....I need a cylinder head, preferably proofed for my 1927 Master 6........Anybody got one for sale?????

Fingers and toes crossed.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, r1lark said:

Hmm........maybe a 1927 Buick-based speedster? That would be pretty neat. :)

That is EXACTLY my thought! There is the Buick Super 8 Special I could use for inspiration. No way I’d hit that kind of beauty - that car is off the rails!
 

Lots of research to do in my downtime. I think of putting myself on the mindset of a lad in the mid 1930’s with his dads wrecked  27-20 and what I would do to be able to beat the guys down the block with their hopped up Ford speedster- 🙂 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also check these for play with the brake shafts.

IMG_7037.jpeg.2eda36f59116af981b81d8ffc148ae72.jpeg I had to bore mine out for my Master and make bushings since they were worn egg shaped. I also turned the ends of the worn brake shafts pressed on a fitted steel collar and turned it back down to spec. I tried to get as much slop out of the brake system as I could. Including making oversize clevis pins.

DSC00534.JPG.cb50d7b507ff80cde307cb921c74a6b9.JPGDSC00535.JPG.3c619b967e01bcc946da9b58d455767f.JPG

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, dibarlaw said:

Also check these for play with the brake shafts.

IMG_7037.jpeg.2eda36f59116af981b81d8ffc148ae72.jpeg I had to bore mine out for my Master and make bushings since they were worn egg shaped. I also turned the ends of the worn brake shafts pressed on a fitted steel collar and turned it back down to spec. I tried to get as much slop out of the brake system as I could. Including making oversize clevis pins.

DSC00534.JPG.cb50d7b507ff80cde307cb921c74a6b9.JPGDSC00535.JPG.3c619b967e01bcc946da9b58d455767f.JPG

 

Good call. As I remember these are in there’re fairly slop free I but good to check now than worry about later. 
 

I do know most if not all those Clevus pins were tight- but again thank you for saying this- good to have the quality of the fit in your brain as things go back together. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Painted the rear end assembly and brake bits today. Finally able to install the rear end back into the chassis this weekend. IMG_7204.jpeg.5ca98bb99165c831c29ac96c044a1b1d.jpegIMG_7206.jpeg.f9b2217994e2f1f547a7aeff8d7704a7.jpegIMG_7208.jpeg.1a48be5d1858c02f58f8aacf0dfe51cc.jpeg


Brake linings, installation of the rear brake assemblies this weekend- then onto the wheels. 
 

IMG_7209.jpeg.509064440780bf36bda3af975cdd28ab.jpeg

I masked off these areas of the rear axle mounts on the rear axle.  These did not have paint on them when I took the rear hangers/mounts off. Not sure if that’s right but these areas are greased under the clamps so no paint shouldn’t be an issue. 

IMG_7210.jpeg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brake lining installed on one parking break ring. It was not nearly as difficult as I was making it out to be in my head.

 

Brake material clamped to the band

IMG_7234.jpeg.cfb65afbbdff1865eefc462dd8f7d685.jpeg

 

Drilled from the backside

 

IMG_7235.jpeg.c2ae3ee19fdd14d1170aa8276e55daae.jpeg

 

drilled with a larger wood bit roughly 1/2 way through the brake material 


IMG_7237.jpeg.c188cc84314c44f05140b06e99703e91.jpegIMG_7236.jpeg.1926083e27931a9e1b36408919e55df9.jpeg

inserted rivets and placed it on a punch mounted in a vice and used the tool to roll over the backside

 

IMG_7238.jpeg.906576b2e9478aeeb64fe0560430dd60.jpeg

the longer ones at the end of the ring fitting were a little wonky because the tool wouldn’t go down flat. I gave these a little love with the ball peen. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Installing the parking brake ring and the rods for the rear passenger side brake was a huge test in patience - very frustrating. 
 

Assembled both rear rods and bracket. 

Referenced photos to see how the curved brake arm ties into the metal straps at the brake ring. Several attempts- finally got it right ( I think) 

 

I realized the curved arm needs to be installed with the ring- then saw I missed the rod clamp that keeps the parking brake rod in place  Needed to remov the bracket and rod assembly again. Really mucking up the fresh paint…

 

Finally assembled and installed- looks like the curved lever only acts on the upper portion of the band. Could just be because the drum isn’t in place. 
 

Touched up the paint and took some time to hit the other bolts / nuts that did not receive paint prior. Hopefully I’ll get the remaining linings installed and the brake assemblies installed tomorrow. 
 

IMG_7239.jpeg.873905a510309e129aecbd84bd795164.jpegIMG_7241.jpeg.80ce29a0dabc82bd3bddd8d03f3e65ac.jpegIMG_7242.jpeg.204afbcb0a75031398d3765f96b55ff7.jpeg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pictures taken on disassembly are so valuable! With digital photography, we can take as many as we want.

 

I'm reassembling a car now that I disassembled in the late 1980s before having a digital camera. I wish there would have been more pictures taken, but back then that cost MONEY!  :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here’s a question. I pulled out the four springs I got from Bob’s as I am planning the next handful of steps after I get the brakes put back together and I noticed two distinct types of ends on the springs. I’m assuming it’s just a manufacturing process two of them just happened to look one way and two of them just so happened to look at the other. But I’d like to pose the question if there is a difference in the springs as far as where they Mount  to the brake rods at the rear?IMG_7250.jpeg.c8440714620d17b6399e4cc3e670439b.jpegIMG_7251.jpeg.fb8daae3b27ff8dcd86fb47fd58e40db.jpeg please note that each spring has exactly the same end on it. It is either a full circle on both ends or that half-ish Circle on both ends kind of odd I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, r1lark said:

Pictures taken on disassembly are so valuable! With digital photography, we can take as many as we want.

 

I'm reassembling a car now that I disassembled in the late 1980s before having a digital camera. I wish there would have been more pictures taken, but back then that cost MONEY!  :)

That would be a tough one for sure. I forget how assemblies go together that I had just taken apart a month ago much less some years ago I referred to my photographs every single time I’m working on this car. The more pictures you can take the better definitely! There have been a few times working on this Buick that the information I’m looking for can’t be seen in the photographs. I just didn’t get the right angle or the right light to be able to see exactly how pieces interact or connect to each other. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_7249.jpeg.e7873870ba1c09586280163145bad5ca.jpegHere are the bits that I tried for the brake linings. The first is a 9/64 drillbit, which is the size of the rivet. I then tried a forstner bit thinking I could hog out the lip that the rivets sits on, but that thing was dancing all over the place. A regular larger size drillbit had the same result. It kind of wanted to dance all over the place and grab the little metal strings that are in this brake line. I then tried this guide drill bit and it works much better. The point actually follows the hole I created with the 9/64 drill bit and the width is enough to allow for a good seating surface for the head of the rivet. 
 

IMG_7248.jpeg.bf84cd232e2ff48ad6f6700f4236b745.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Outer liners installation was much easier to rivet. The ring balances on the punch in the vice- 5 taps with the punch/tool on each rivet worked well. 
IMG_7261.jpeg.c85224bbba1647ac10d4083557d57f9a.jpegIMG_7262.jpeg.9b3eb6149fc8c564c9a46661ce49349b.jpegIMG_7263.jpeg.3ecc57526eb1ecdb42272c6221c09918.jpeg

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drivers side parking brake assembly went much better than passenger side. I only had to assemble / disassemble / assemble /partially disassemble and final assemble! Much easier than the passenger side. I know I just posted that I installed this side- I didn’t want anybidt thinking i got it in 1 shot IMG_7260.jpeg.1307c56c8161a758f9befd29c0ea4cb1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The passenger side band is a bit cattywompused - this is the side that had the bent spring assembly- I straightened the bolt/assembly but now realize whatever bent that assembly also negatively affected the outer band. I’ll need to address this when this sides drum/ wheel assembly goes on. I’ll mount the drum and bend the band back as best I can. I wish I would have caught this in disassembly. 

 

IMG_7270.jpeg.ccca964c3fa7c811d6597b48a58fface.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

On to the wheels- I pulled all the wheel /rim and removed all the drums. Contemplating removing the hub assembly the carriage bolts pass through. 
 

I removed and cleaned up the rear hub sections that holds the felt seal. It’ll be interesting to see how to get the new felt seal in. Making gaskets for these as the cork gasket crumbled when I removed it. 
IMG_7275.jpeg.425182dd6a7a152266d1a272f2238cdf.jpeg

Edited by Slawnski
Spelling/ context (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drums removed - wood under looks tight- just oily/ dirty. 
 

The plan is:

 

cover all the wood and sandblast the metal.

Uncover the masking from the wood and sandblast wood/metal assembly with walnut shells. 

 

Seal the wood refinish wood and reassemble. 
 

Mask the wood and paint the metal bits. Sounds tedious but 

 

I’ll de mount the tires and sandblast rims with the rest of the metal parts. 
 

IMG_7274.jpeg.62326e6d22367ac2899b36b3136d72be.jpegIMG_7276.jpeg.d9a550575999457817473f03495e3982.jpegIMG_7277.jpeg.01ea12c1f5ce36999dd4a0f8ece7b00a.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...