John Nelson Posted December 23, 2023 Share Posted December 23, 2023 I’m in the process of reworking the wheels on my 1924/45 Buick and I’ve removed all the thru-bolts from the rear wheel assembly and was wondering, What’s next??? I need to get the drum off the wheel to strip and paint it and also replace one spoke that has a crack. Thanks John Nelson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted December 23, 2023 Share Posted December 23, 2023 If I had a spoke that was cracked on a wheel I would seriously consider having the wheel completely rebuilt. If one spoke is cracked I would be concerned about the condition of other spokes. Rebuilding a wheel for $300-500.00 is cheap insurance. Safety is top priority. Just IMO. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 Use the shop press to push out the hub. Make some plywood rings to support the spokes and clear the hub outside diameter. About a 4" length of 4" dia pipe will be needed to push on the hub without damaging the oil slinger, plus another piece of steel to set over the pipe. Plan for the hub inner diameter to resist the entire way out. Originally the center hole was bored after the spokes were installed into the rim and should be a near press fit for the hub, so replacing just one and matching that bore will be a technically challenging task. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted December 24, 2023 Author Share Posted December 24, 2023 I hadn’t planned on removal of the hub from the wheel just the retainer that holds the brake drum in place. Is that retainer just a press fit to the hub or is it threaded? I would give anything to have a manual that shows expanded assemblies the way modern manuals are laid out. Thanks for the the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 This rear hub pictured below is a 1926 and has no lock ring or threads. I don't believe 1924-25 hubs used a lock ring. I did manage to remove the front wheel brake drums without disturbing the hubs. The brake drums were just loose enough to move a little and I was able to wiggle them off. The rear drums would not budge and I had to use the shop press. I also noticed the front wheel drum bolt hole pattern only matched the spokes in one position, so these holes had been match drilled along with the spokes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 2 hours ago, John Nelson said: I would give anything to have a manual that shows expanded assemblies the way modern manuals are laid out. I don't see a 1924 shop manual but Bob's has them for 1923, 1925 and 1926. If any manual offers wheel/spoke repair instructions it might be in the Dykes manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 With all the work to get this one wheel done with the bad drum. I left the other wheel together when I stripped it. The spokes had been stripped once before when the previous owner did them in the 1960s and varnished them. All spokes appear to be in excelent condition.On the left is the original 3/16" out of round RR drum from my 1925-45. On the right is the much rounder 1926 drum I got from Fred Rawling. The hub was a very good tight fit to this drum and now installed it runs pretty true. A comment on truing/turning brake drums in this time period. The operation was done as an assembly on a lathe with appropriate clearance for the entire wheel, rim and tire. I have a 1927 South Bend Lathe Catalog showing their line of Brake Lathes. Accessories included all the appropriate arbors to fit the hubs. Also the hub /spoke bolts on the 1924-1925 Master and Standard series were peined or center punched after tightening. On one wheel from a 1924 that I was able to get a drum from they center punched the nuts. On my 1925-45 they peined the nut and bolt. I was able to make up new nuts and save the threads on the bolts. On my Standard I also had to make up bolts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted December 24, 2023 Author Share Posted December 24, 2023 I hadn’t thought of looking in my Dyke’s manual, good idea! My wheels and drums have been painted several times and really need to be stripped and cleaned. From what the photos show the drum is just pressed on to the hub and not really secured to the hub at all, right? Thanks for all the information, you guys are amazing!! “Merry Christmas!” John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 The drum is pretty well secured to the hub with 12 bolts. Make sure to scrape all the gunk build up off the inner hub where it protrudes through the drum. I use a utility knife blade to reach those areas. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted December 24, 2023 Author Share Posted December 24, 2023 I scraped around the hub really well then applied penetrating oil lightly, I’ll let it sit until tomorrow then apply a little heat and see what happens! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 They won't reach everywhere but a wire cup brush on a right angle sander can get into some otherwise hard to reach places. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted December 25, 2023 Author Share Posted December 25, 2023 Well I tried cleaning the flange really well and applying heat then wedging the drum with some 2” wide stainless strips tapered to an edge, no luck moving that drum at all. I’m going to try the press as was suggested. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 28, 2023 Share Posted December 28, 2023 John, Please take a few photos so we can learn how to remove these drums. Thank you, Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted December 28, 2023 Author Share Posted December 28, 2023 I made a support plate for the spokes from 3/4” plywood with a relief cut in it for the hub to move into. I then used a 2X rivet gun with an aluminum rod to drive the hub down out of the drum. It took a bit of doing but it came out without any damage and the vibration from the rivet gun also dropped the bearing and seals out of the hub. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 John, Thanks for posting this. Looks like a press or an air chisel is the tool of choice for removing the drum. I have a 1927 Buick Master at the house where the brake drum stops in the same place on every revolution. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 The large nuts that hold the drum from the inside were center punched several times on each stud to keep the nut from loosening. I did the same when re-installing after my paint work 25 years ago. Still tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 And if in 1925 they are still using the large double row ball bearing like in 1923 on the rear wheels, this bearing is a standard size, widely used today and still available. Metric even back then. Order it in the sealed version and never worry about lubing it. Also buy it online from a bearing house for a third of what the old bearing people will try to sell them to you for. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nelson Posted December 30, 2023 Author Share Posted December 30, 2023 If you use a rivet gun with a cup set be sure to use an aluminum rod in the set or you”ll mar the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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