For Sale: 1954 Hudson Super Wasp - "One owner unmolested 4dr Sedan" - "Original paint and interior, Stored 50+ Years" - Tucson, AZ - Not Mine

[6T-FinSeeker]

For sale on Craigslist: 1954 Hudson Super Wasp 4-door Sedan in Tucson, AZ  -  $14,950  -  Call Tony: 520 850 05 seven nine

 

Link:  https://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/d/tucson-1954-hudson-super-wasp/7688061432.html

 

Seller's Description:

1954 Hudson Super Wasp 4-door Sedan

• condition: excellent
• cylinders: 6 cylinders
• transmission: automatic
• odometer: 52,000
• title status: clean

1954 Hudson Super Wasp Survivor
52k original miles, one owner unmolested garage find. Still in the garage, was jacked up and put on jack stands. Auto transmission. Original paint is very nice and the interior perfect also, probably the nicest survivor Hudson in existence. I waxed a small area to try it and the paint shines like new. It was running and driving when parked in the 50’s I put in some gas and a fresh battery, and it fired up on the first try after not being started for more than fifty years.

I have made arrangements with the property owner to leave it as is, where is for now. It has a stash of new old stock parts that the owner collected. The parts are worth a fair bit by themselves. It was purchased new in Arizona and has never left. Title is the second title and endorsed by the original owner. Absolutely rust free as you would expect.

In my 40 plus years as a car collector I’ve never found one this intact and original with absolutely no modifications or replaced parts, I personally would keep it and do a Hellcat powered resto-mod but it is too nice and deserves to remain original if I can find a buyer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 2023 by 6T-FinSeeker (see edit history)

[Sal Hepatica]

Another springtime yellow '54 Hudson?

Inconceivable!

[JACK M]

Don't threaten me with the Hellcat.

[Xander Wildeisen]

1954 Hudson, parked in the 50's, 52,000 miles, new gas, battery and it starts right up. After sitting for over 50 years. 10,000 miles a year? puts it in 1959. Parked 58-59? The red over spray from painting the motor must have been spring of 58? Repainting the roof must have been fall of 59? New hoses and hose clamps must have been a Christmas present from the first owners uncle. He is also the one who installed the sky light in the garage, that allowed the paint on the hood to fade from sun exposure over the years. If parked in 59, that is sitting for 63 years. Just a splash of gas and a battery, fires the first time? I have had to crank on Hudson's that ran yesterday. Nice car, fishy story.

[The 55er]

Yes, very fishy. Calling this car the nicest survivor Hudson in existence is a bit of a reach considering all the serious HET collectors & museums that are out there. The whole ad seems like a scam. They certainly don't start right up after 50 years and few (if any) car collectors with 40 year experience would even try it. The front bumper guards are missing and I hope those aren't radial tires.....I'm not buying any of it. 

[StillOutThere]

I would suggest the car is Ebony Black over Green Gold (close to pale mustard).

A typical '54 mid-price Super Wasp model came out of the dealership with blackwall tires and no wheel trim rings.

The Power Brake accessory was new for 1954 and is a quite rare option.   Although if ordered, typically new for '54 Power Steering would be ordered along with it.

Other than the question of the missing front bumper guards, I don't see anything at all in photos that says the car is not a truly great survivor with the claimed mileage.

Most certainly I too would highly doubt the claim of such an easy startup after all those years.  But that said, if properly oil "misted" when parked in that super arid environment, I could not rule it out.   If bought, order fuel pump and carb rebuild kits the same day for sure.

 

A friend's Ebony Black over Green Gold '54 Hornet Special Club sedan is attached.  It too is factory paint.

[Xander Wildeisen]

I thought Hudson stopped two tone paint jobs below the body line in 1950?

[The 55er]

The 1954 Super Wasp 4-door sedan in the ad appears to be a nice original but the pictures look old to me and not current or "fresh" so I have doubts the seller has any real connection to the car. I still don't think it would start up just like that after 50 years of sitting but I guess it's possible. No rusty connections, electrical corrosion anywhere or even a bad condenser? This is what NORS 1954 Hudson ignition points look like after some long term dry storage in my shop........50 years is a long time, I wonder if it blew any mouse nests out the tailpipe when it started? Again, it's possible but I still think the ad is a scam. 

[StillOutThere]

Xander, good question, good point. Trying to think back at least 15+ years ago to when friend bought the Club Sedan, I believe the consensus amoung a group of us was that the black in the quarter panels on this particular car may have been done at the dealership. That's the best I can do on that! I recall my dad having the dealer add two-toning to his '56 Ford Ranch Wagon around the windows.

[Xander Wildeisen]

I remember Jim Harmon saying that years ago. In the world of multi million dollar Hudson sedans. It probably does not matter that much.

[StillOutThere]

Jim Harmon. One of the very best Hudson people.

[Xander Wildeisen]

One of the first people I met getting into Hudson’s. Very nice man, always took time to answer a question or help out with a part.

[deac]

Well I have not paid much attention to this post because I'm not a Hudson guy.  But there are some not believable claims made by the seller.  In my experience a car that sat for 50 some odd years doesn't just fire up.  Old gas get gummy and sitting in a  fuel pump or fuel filter or in a fuel line usually doesn't bode well.  Carburetor passages get gummed up as well.  The seller also claims the applied some wax and shined up like new.  I have professionally detailed many cars and his claim is bogus.  Even if his claim about firing right up is true that doesn't indicate the car is road ready.  That transmission has not been turned 50 years.  I don't think a fluid with a screen change is going fix a dead trans. I can imagine what a mess the brake system is in. But I have to say looking at the pictures the interior looks awfully nice.  The engine compartment looks like a disaster. His sale price is a big reach!

Edited November 21, 2023 by deac (see edit history)

[deac]

21 hours ago, The 55er said:

I hope those aren't radial tires.....I'm not buying any of it. 

1. Hey 55er your statement above regarding radials can you elaborate?  I'm not challenging your statement just want hear your opinion and then I'll tell you the reason for this question...

[Xander Wildeisen]

When did radials come out? Better be in 1959 to fit in with the story.

[The 55er]

I don't know if those tires are radials or not, I really can't tell. Certainly a car that was sitting all those years as claimed would have bias ply tires. I can tell you from experience those old Hydramatics don't like to sit idle for years and years. You bring up some good points Deac. 

[Xander Wildeisen]

Lancia looks to be the first production car with radials.

[StillOutThere]

"In 1949, the revolutionary Michelin “X” radial made its public debut and was offered as optional fitment on Peugeots, the Citroën 11 and Simca 8."

https://autouniversum.wordpress.com/2011/03/07/michelin-and-the-birth-of-the-radial-tire/

[deac]

2 hours ago, The 55er said:

I don't know if those tires are radials or not, I really can't tell. Certainly a car that was sitting all those years as claimed would have bias ply tires. I can tell you from experience those old Hydramatics don't like to sit idle for years and years. You bring up some good points Deac. 

well what I was alluding to in my last post is if it wise to put radials on a car that was designed for bias plies.  I know it's off the topic but I ask the question while we are discussing tires!

[Xander Wildeisen]

I have never had a problem with radials on stepdown wheels.

[Bloo]

Up here in the beautiful PNW people did that to Hudsons and everything else in the 80s. Little if any corrosive stuff used on the roads back then, and there were plenty of really old cars still in daily service.

 

All the hand wringing about radials on bias rims is a 21st century Internet phenomenon. If someone had suggested to me that there was a problem doing that when I was a kid busting tires in a gas station I would have looked at them like they were from outer space. Going from tube-type to tubeless would have at least prompted a conversation. Spoiler: That usually doesn't matter either.

 

Everything in the post above assumes "drop center" type rims, like a 50s Hudson would normally have. The only side effects of radials are the car will drive straighter, feel more stable at speed, and have less tire trouble. There is nothing inherently wrong with a bias ply tire though. We got by with them for years. They do have the right look. Anyone who has reservations about this should probably stick with bias ply. Also anyone who will insist on using the factory recommended tire pressures should stick with bias ply. Radials want considerably more pressure.

[deac]

38 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Up here in the beautiful PNW people did that to Hudsons and everything else in the 80s. Little if any corrosive stuff used on the roads back then, and there were plenty of really old cars still in daily service.

 

All the hand wringing about radials on bias rims is a 21st century Internet phenomenon. If someone had suggested to me that there was a problem doing that when I was a kid busting tires in a gas station I would have looked at them like they were from outer space. Going from tube-type to tubeless would have at least prompted a conversation. Spoiler: That usually doesn't matter either.

 

Everything in the post above assumes "drop center" type rims, like a 50s Hudson would normally have. The only side effects of radials are the car will drive straighter, feel more stable at speed, and have less tire trouble. There is nothing inherently wrong with a bias ply tire though. We got by with them for years. They do have the right look. Anyone who has reservations about this should probably stick with bias ply. Also anyone who will insist on using the factory recommended tire pressures should stick with bias ply. Radials want considerably more pressure.

I have asked this question in the Buick forum and basically the said about what you said just now.  I have a Buick super coupe which have radials on it.  Back a few months ago I was  backing out of parking spot and the steering linkage completely broke at the center link.  There is only a pitman arm on these cars and no idler arm.  The guys I work with at the shop said I need to replace those radials with Bias Plies.  They are convinced the radials caused the problem. They claim radials are much harder on the suspension as it was designed for bias plies.  So I am asking around and so far haven't heard a solid negative comment regarding radials.

[Bloo]

I don't think you should be able to break a steering linkage. That sounds crazy to me. Now to be fair, radials do have more grip, so if you were cornering at higher speeds and G-loads than would be practical on the bias ply tires, then you would indeed be putting more stress on the wheels and suspension..... Do I think your steering linkage should fall apart? No.

 

I can't help but wonder exactly what broke. Pontiacs had the first parallelogram steering I think with an idler arm about 1938(?). Most other cars not until years later, and those with independent suspension usually had a pittman arm on the steering box and a bellcrank in the middle of the crossmember. The bellcrank was a persistent wear problem. A little slop in the bellcrank bearings turns into a lot by the time it gets to the wheels. Adjustable tie rod ends were often used in the older cars too, and if allowed to get too worn out those will just fall apart. Ball socket parts for those are usually available, but sometimes the balls get oval and need to be replaced before the socket will adjust.

[deac]

Okay I have attached photos of the broken steering linkage on my Buick.

[deac]

Now the repaired linkage...

[deac]

We welded a sleeve around the broken part of the linkage. This might have been caused by wear and tear and/or rust.

[Xander Wildeisen]

Isn’t that held in by a large threaded plug? That puts pressure on the cup by a spring? Looks like it came apart on you, and the end plug backed it’s way out. Or play was in the joint creating pressure on the connection point. Don’t think radial tires did that.

Edited November 21, 2023 by Xander Wildeisen (see edit history)

[Bloo]

Normally the plug is held against unthreading with a cotter pin.

[Xander Wildeisen]

Without the cotter pin, it will unscrew by the turning of the tires. And side to side travel of the components. Those things can also become packed with caked on dirt and petrified grease. One thing often  over looked that can use a good cleaning after 50+ years of service. Lots of people do not reinstall the dust shield/cover that goes around that joint.

[deac]

This is the picture of the area you guys are talking about. The grease in the link has rusty tinge to it the end of the link is jagged. More and more I am thinking this was not caused by radial tires. However still not sure that radials on an old car are a good idea.