Mariiboops Posted October 17, 2023 Posted October 17, 2023 When I say this, I don't mean the whole dash cluster. I want to replace the mechanical parts. Even if I fixed them, they're in awful shape and would likely break again. Electronic gps is acceptable but mechanical is desired. Doesn't help that I'm finding it impossible to find what to call it. Typing in speedometer brings up the bezels and cables but not the needle and odometer.
The 55er Posted October 17, 2023 Posted October 17, 2023 1954 Pontiac speedometer: If it were me, I would disassemble it this far and let a speedometer or instrument repair shop take it from here. The needle has to come off.........
Thomas Sophy Posted October 18, 2023 Posted October 18, 2023 I have one I am selling if interested .Needle moves when the shaft in back is spun.
PONTIAC1953 Posted October 20, 2023 Posted October 20, 2023 Lucky I was several years ago to find a nos 53-54 Pontiac speedometer as well as a nos set of the four gauges and the only nos 53-54 Pontiac speedometer dial that I've ever seen.
PONTIAC1953 Posted October 20, 2023 Posted October 20, 2023 On 10/18/2023 at 12:25 PM, Thomas Sophy said: I have one I am selling if interested .Needle moves when the shaft in back is spun. strange that your speedometer has a red needle since the 53-54 Pontiac dash gauges all had the white needle.
Mariiboops Posted January 23 Author Posted January 23 UPDATE: It was not broken. It's stiff, but functions correctly. I need it buttery smooth to operate properly. However to accomplish that would be appreciated information.
GARY F Posted January 23 Posted January 23 First I would remove the cable , clean it , relube it with graphite, reinstall. 1
Mariiboops Posted February 5 Author Posted February 5 On 1/23/2024 at 4:26 PM, GARY F said: First I would remove the cable , clean it , relube it with graphite, reinstall. It's not the cable, it's the mechanism. I can't seem to get it apart.
itsonlypain Posted February 5 Posted February 5 I have a 1951, What is the process for cleaning and lubricating the cable. I am apprehensive on removing as not cause any problems. does the hole cable need to be removed from both the speedometer and the transmission to properly lubricate...the shop manual is very vague on the matter?
49 Streamliner Posted February 9 Posted February 9 I've lubed the speedometer cable on my '49 Streamliner due to the needle jumping back and forth. You may have already done some of these steps, but after several tries, here's what worked best for me: Unscrew the cable housing/sheath from the back of the speedometer. Be prepared to twist yourself into awkward positions. Pull the cable out of the the sheath. If I remember right, the two ends of the cable were slightly different. Take a look at that because you want to put it back in the same way it comes out. Clean the old lubricant and accumulated dirt from the cable and let it dry. I think I used gasoline. You can check to see if there are any kinks in the cable by holding it with one end in each hand, letting the cable hang down in a U-shape. Roll ends back and forth between your thumb and finger tips. If the cable jumps around, it probably has a kink in it and would need to be replaced. The lubricant that works best for me is graphite. I actually used both the spray can type and the kind that is in a plastic tube. I tried grease and oil that were suggested on various websites, but they just didn't work for me-- the speedometer needle still jumped back and forth and I had to repeat the job several times. Lubricate the entire length of the cable except for the last couple inches on the end the goes into the back of the speedometer. Reinsert the cable into the sheath. The end going into the transmission will line itself up pretty easily. Reattach the sheath to the back of the speedometer. Lining the sheath threads up with the threads on the back of the speedometer was the most difficult part for me. The picture below shows the cable after cleaning. I used the spray can graphite and the kind in the squeeze tube together with good results. Bill
Grimy Posted February 9 Posted February 9 (edited) I'm messy and don't want to stain my carpet or upholstery so I withdraw the cable from *under* the car after disconnecting from the speedo head, and push it back in from under the car as well. It's easier to re-attach the speedo head end first, and then finish with the drive gear/transmission end. Again because I'm messy, I wear coveralls while under the car and remove them for the work inside the passenger compartment. You absolutely *will* get grease and crud on your outer garments under the car for this job. Edited February 9 by Grimy fixed typo (see edit history)
itsonlypain Posted February 10 Posted February 10 So as far as I can tell the transmission end Does not need to be undone and all can be done from one side (speedometer side) just slide out....clean and lubricate....and reinsert.... IM guessing the transmission gearbox side will slide into place with some slight twisting?
Grimy Posted February 10 Posted February 10 Just now, itsonlypain said: So as far as I can tell the transmission end Does not need to be undone and all can be done from one side (speedometer side) just slide out....clean and lubricate....and reinsert.... IM guessing the transmission gearbox side will slide into place with some slight twisting? If you take it out from the top side, I can almost guarantee that 6-8 foot length of cable will have a mind of its own and flop around including on your seat cushions. The previous graphite lube, whose stains are almost impossible to remove from upholstery, will be imparted to your upholstery. You can reduce that damage by draping the front seats with old sheets or a drop cloth -- which must be secured to the seats to be effective. It's MUCH easier to re-insert the speedo head end if the transmission end is not captive. I've done this operation at least a dozen times on various cars, and the recommended procedure in my previous post reflects some regrettable lessons learned the hard way. 2
Rusty Heaps Posted February 11 Posted February 11 Thanks Grimy! I’m sure this applies to all GM makes of similar vintage and perhaps others too.
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