Mariiboops

It's not the cable, it's the mechanism. I can't seem to get it apart.

UPDATE: It was not broken. It's stiff, but functions correctly. I need it buttery smooth to operate properly. However to accomplish that would be appreciated information.

Since the radiator appears to be out, take a look down into where it sits. This car looks a bit rotten, so I doubt the condition would be any good.

For those who look to this thread for guidance, here's my end option: I switched to a 12-volt starter with gear reduction. My car starts on the first key turn every time now. If you think it's expensive, then you're mistaken. A fully rebuilt 6-volt starter and solenoid is the same price but will likely suffer from the same issues eventually. I apologize for not giving a 6-volt answer, but I would personally prefer to make a pedal-starter like an old truck rather than fix the solenoid switch. I've been stranded in have my drives due to the solenoid, and I refuse to subject friends and family to it. They are not as young and capable of dealing with it as I am.

Since nobody has replied to this topic, let me relay my new plans: I have decided due to sheer availability and options; I will cut out the rusted lower sections below the vents and have a 1954 Chevy truck's radiator support mounted between the original Pontiac posts. I should be able to do so with bolts and thick plating instead of welding as to not make changes that are difficult to remove. I'll be using a 3-row aluminum radiator for the same truck, but upgrade if the need arises. Once the assembly is confirmed operational, it will be sandblasted and powder coated for it to match the other engine bay plating. I know powder coating isn't stock, but it's a bit stronger and gives a cleaner finish than I can guarantee on my own. I'm a bit clumsy with tools when I'm frustrated, and I imagine that's what I would need to prevent scratching when the old flathead 8 is fighting back. I will post pictures when complete. This should be done within a few days of the mount coming in.

The wiring has been replaced, yes. I might have overdone it by using mostly the larger wires from scrapped car battery chargers, and the thicker trailer wires for simple lights minus the headlights. I believe with the information available, the ammeter should be okay. If it is not, I can edit a standard voltmeter from Bosch to resemble it and use that instead.

I got a resistor for the fuel gauge, but I keep trying to find info about the battery one. Every other part of the car is ready electrically, so a quick answer would be great. I got a secondary voltage gauge just in case there's nothing I can do.

I need to do something about the condition of my radiator support/front mount of the Chieftain I'm working on, whether it be to have it cheaply fix at a welder's or have it replaced. My primary issue is that I have absolutely no reference for what one is supposed to look like when it isn't rusted apart from the air vents down. I would appreciate either pictures or an offer to buy a good one, but I can't put the car back together unless I figure something out. I'll be busy repainting until that point.

I picked up an engine block for practice fixing up engines from decades ago. I thought I picked up a 50s model but I'm getting conflicting imagery and evidence on Google about details. I've landed around 1948, but I'm curious if there's a more concrete way to identify the year. Engine is complete minus an oil fill tube. I need a production year for more accurate replacement parts, although it's mostly out of curiosity. I know there's a minor chance it might be 1930s even though I may have already ruled it out.

The mount that holds the switch inside the starter solenoid is shattered after a few weeks of use. That kind of quality is undesired, so I'm switching to something more resilient. Rubber should do the trick, but any other suggestions will be appreciated. I should have results by this weekend to share.

When I say this, I don't mean the whole dash cluster. I want to replace the mechanical parts. Even if I fixed them, they're in awful shape and would likely break again. Electronic gps is acceptable but mechanical is desired. Doesn't help that I'm finding it impossible to find what to call it. Typing in speedometer brings up the bezels and cables but not the needle and odometer.

SC coast, but my dad lives only an hour from you. My email is vanillawonder1989@gmail.com if you wanna message me more reliably.

It takes an accident. I had a tire go awol. You'd be doing me a big favor even if I have to come all the way to get it.

It's the clutch fork return spring. It hooks to the front facing end of the piece that contacts the clutch fork and the mount on the bell housing.

No, I took photos of throttle before removing the engine. The area near the clutch didn't end up in any of the photos. But I already figured out what this spring is. I'm not sure how to end this topic.

By brake has a spring, but where does .844 there go? Edit: Oof, after studying these diagrams, I think its the clutch fork return spring but got streched out beyond usability. I will go find a replacement. Thanks for the photos.

My throttle return spring is already mounted in place and is working fine. This is a different spring.

Okay, this is my first time posting here so if there's rules or something about questions, I'm sorry. So I'm almost done getting this old girl back on the road, but one of the springs is confusing me as to its proper location. It simply fell out the car after I sent the engine to be rebuild and relocated the vehicle to a rain-proof spot. I assume it's for the clutch because it's not returning all the way without a little nudge first despite not doing that before. None of the photos I took of the engine bay before removing the engine show where this item goes and images of the same engine bay in other cars don't show it either. Please tell me where it goes, and provide an image if you can.