Generator pulley need help

[32RockneModel75]

Hi everyone this generator is off my 1932 studebaker but need help identifying what other applications use this same pulley 

[Fordy]

Not many applications used one with a big chunk missing!😁 Someone suggested in a different post where a pulley failed to check with a local auto electrician to se if they have a junked one that matches. 

Make and model of the unit would also assist in matching it with use on other makes.

[32RockneModel75]

8 minutes ago, Fordy said:

Not many applications used one with a big chunk missing!😁 Someone suggested in a different post where a pulley failed to check with a local auto electrician to se if they have a junked one that matches. 

Make and model of the unit would also assist in matching it with use on other makes.

Make not available on part or model 

[wayne sheldon]

Generator pullies need to be close to right to fit the V belt and turn near correct speed. However, they do not need to be precise. Usually, a close fit pulley can be found and altered to fit the generator shaft and to line up properly.

Another possibility? If it were mine? And very much depending upon the quality of the cast iron in the pulley? After checking closely for additional cracks or damage? I would try to make a steel piece to replace what is broken off, and braze it into place. A lot of automotive cast iron (not everything, but a lot) brazes quite well and would be nearly as strong as when the pulley was new.

But that is me. 

There is also some question about the generator shaft? Could it be bent? That break looks like it was hit fairly hard? Perhaps you may consider finding a suitably sized generator that may fit more easily?

That appears to be a more modern generator that was adapted to your Studebaker?

[dustycrusty]

I'm not sure why it has the hexed portion on the backside(?) but various agricultural and industrial manufacturers used adjustable pulleys what you screwed in or out to change the dimensions of the groove so the belt rode deeper or higher in it instead of physically moving the entire generator assembly to adjust the belt tension. You cant be sure without a set of dimensions, but your pulley looks similar to pulleys used on Delco Remy generators used on Farmall tractors and power units from the late 1940's and 1950s. Hard to believe, but there is a whole clan of demented folks who collect and restore such woefully obsolete machinery and there is a pretty good niche industry that reproduces parts to cater to that crazy crowd so you might be able to find a suitable stand-in there.

  If you cant find a replacement, that pulley would also be easy enough to reproduce. You just need a good friend with a lathe and a mill.

 

GOOD LUCK!

[32RockneModel75]

6 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

Generator pullies need to be close to right to fit the V belt and turn near correct speed. However, they do not need to be precise. Usually, a close fit pulley can be found and altered to fit the generator shaft and to line up properly.

Another possibility? If it were mine? And very much depending upon the quality of the cast iron in the pulley? After checking closely for additional cracks or damage? I would try to make a steel piece to replace what is broken off, and braze it into place. A lot of automotive cast iron (not everything, but a lot) brazes quite well and would be nearly as strong as when the pulley was new.

But that is me. 

There is also some question about the generator shaft? Could it be bent? That break looks like it was hit fairly hard? Perhaps you may consider finding a suitably sized generator that may fit more easily?

That appears to be a more modern generator that was adapted to your Studebaker?

I get your point on creating a piece to rebuild the section missing. I’m trying to avoid that if there is a pulley out there just to switch out. And about it being a newer generator it could be greatly appreciate your comment Thank you 

[32RockneModel75]

2 hours ago, dustycrusty said:

I'm not sure why it has the hexed portion on the backside(?) but various agricultural and industrial manufacturers used adjustable pulleys what you screwed in or out to change the dimensions of the groove so the belt rode deeper or higher in it instead of physically moving the entire generator assembly to adjust the belt tension. You cant be sure without a set of dimensions, but your pulley looks similar to pulleys used on Delco Remy generators used on Farmall tractors and power units from the late 1940's and 1950s. Hard to believe, but there is a whole clan of demented folks who collect and restore such woefully obsolete machinery and there is a pretty good niche industry that reproduces parts to cater to that crazy crowd so you might be able to find a suitable stand-in there.

  If you cant find a replacement, that pulley would also be easy enough to reproduce. You just need a good friend with a lathe and a mill.

 

GOOD LUCK!

Good day, interesting you say farming equipment. I was surprised to find out that the spark plugs I need for my 1932 Studebaker flat head Champion w18 were used in farming equipment. 

[Bloo]

The lack of a fan or any ventilation holes in front probably dates it to the early 30s I think. I have a sneaking hunch this would be a lot easier if we knew who made the generator for Studebaker. Its from a 1932 Studebaker then? I wonder if by some chance @Gary_Ash would recognize it?

[Gary_Ash]

My 1928-40 Parts Catalog for 6 cylinder cars shows Auto Lite generator GAR-4609A being used on Rockne 75 (Model 31).  The diagram in my book shows an integral fan within the pulley, no hex extension.  Maybe the generator on your car got replaced by something else in the past.  While the same generator was used on other Rockne models and on 1935 and 1936 Dictators, the 511386 pulley is only shown for Rockne 65 and 75 cars.

 

Here is a link to an old Auto Lite service manual:

https://studyres.com/doc/7809558/autolite-generator-maintenance

 

[32RockneModel75]

3 hours ago, Bloo said:

The lack of a fan or any ventilation holes in front probably dates it to the early 30s I think. I have a sneaking hunch this would be a lot easier if we knew who made the generator for Studebaker. Its from a 1932 Studebaker then? I wonder if by some chance @Gary_Ash would recognize it?

Great day Bloo I just took off the pulley and found a set of number attached is a picture and yes the generator is a Autolite as I smeared some paint on the label that is very badly gone 

[32RockneModel75]

2 hours ago, Gary_Ash said:

My 1928-40 Parts Catalog for 6 cylinder cars shows Auto Lite generator GAR-4609A being used on Rockne 75 (Model 31).  The diagram in my book shows an integral fan within the pulley, no hex extension.  Maybe the generator on your car got replaced by something else in the past.  While the same generator was used on other Rockne models and on 1935 and 1936 Dictators, the 511386 pulley is only shown for Rockne 65 and 75 cars.

 

Here is a link to an old Auto Lite service manual:

https://studyres.com/doc/7809558/autolite-generator-maintenance

 

Thank you Gary I took a picture of the stamped number on the pulley. Maybe you could help me identifying this type of pulley 

[Gary_Ash]

I made a quick sketch in my CAD program.  Without dimensions, I guessed the pulley was 3.0" o.d. and about 1.9" long for a 3/4" wide V-belt.

 

It's probably close enough to get a fair idea of what it would cost to make one.  I checked on i.materialise.com and got a quote of $429 to directly 3D print in bronze-infused steel.  Seems too expensive.  I sent the CAD file to two online machine houses after changing the hex shape to a round part so that it could be turned from 6061 aluminum on a CNC lathe without additional machining.  Making one in steel would be a little more expensive but probably not a lot more.  I didn't put the keyway in the drawing, so that would be an additional step but many local machine shops can do this quickly and cheaply.  I'll let you know when the quotes come in, should be in a few hours but maybe tomorrow as it is Memorial Day.

 

Just got an email with the quote from Protolabs:  $155 with delivery in 10 days, maybe $20 cheaper if you can wait 1 month.  This is for the part made with a round section where the hex was and without the keyway.

[32RockneModel75]

13 minutes ago, Gary_Ash said:

I made a quick sketch in my CAD program.  Without dimensions, I guessed the pulley was 3.0" o.d. and about 1.9" long for a 3/4" wide V-belt.

 

It's probably close enough to get a fair idea of what it would cost to make one.  I checked on i.materialise.com and got a quote of $429 to directly 3D print in bronze-infused steel.  Seems too expensive.  I sent the CAD file to two online machine houses after changing the hex shape to a round part so that it could be turned from 6061 aluminum on a CNC lathe without additional machining.  Making one in steel would be a little more expensive but probably not a lot more.  I didn't put the keyway in the drawing, so that would be an additional step but many local machine shops can do this quickly and cheaply.  I'll let you know when the quotes come in, should be in a few hours but maybe tomorrow as it is Memorial Day.

 

Just got an email with the quote from Protolabs:  $155 with delivery in 10 days, maybe $20 cheaper if you can wait 1 month.  This is for the part made with a round section where the hex was and without the keyway.

 

[32RockneModel75]

[Gary_Ash]

If you want a new pulley made, more dimensions are needed.  Here is a section view with dimensions labeled.  Also, measure the shaft outside diameter, more accurate than trying to measure the i.d. of the pulley.  Also measure the thickness, length, and height of the key, should be a standard size so that they keyway can be broached by standard tooling.

 

Your calipers show 3.07" for the o.d. of the pulley, but I'd make the o.d. about 2.98" so that it can be turned from a standard 3.0" aluminum bar. 

 

Confirm that the width of the v-belt is 3/4". Is there a part number printed on the belt?  Usually, the angle between the cheeks of the pulley are at 34-38 degrees.

 

[32RockneModel75]

1 hour ago, Gary_Ash said:

If you want a new pulley made, more dimensions are needed.  Here is a section view with dimensions labeled.  Also, measure the shaft outside diameter, more accurate than trying to measure the i.d. of the pulley.  Also measure the thickness, length, and height of the key, should be a standard size so that they keyway can be broached by standard tooling.

 

Your calipers show 3.07" for the o.d. of the pulley, but I'd make the o.d. about 2.98" so that it can be turned from a standard 3.0" aluminum bar. 

 

Confirm that the width of the v-belt is 3/4". Is there a part number printed on the belt?  Usually, the angle between the cheeks of the pulley are at 34-38 degrees.

 

Thank you Gary I will sure get those measurements as soon as I get back home after my work trip I’ll be back home Thursday morning 

[TOM H. S.]

You might be able to ask your local "MAKERSPACE" if someone could make you are replacement or 3D print one up for you on a metal printer, or go to local power tool store and buy one off shelf for an electric motor if it fits. Best Wishes

[1912Staver]

Rather than 3 D print, which would probably still need some finish machining ., why not just machine a new one from steel bar stock ? I would use a large hex nut for the hex portion and either braze or silver solder it to the pulley. 

[Gary_Ash]

A central issue is that the car takes a Gates TR28522 cogged belt currently used for trucks with a top width of 20 mm (0.787"), not a narrow, modern v-belt.  Standard pulleys for this belt size are not easy to find.  Also, his generator shaft seems to be an odd size, maybe 21/32 (0.656").  And, it needs a keyway to fit.  The hex extension seems to serve no purpose in this application except to locate the rear surface against a stop on the generator shaft, so the back end might as well be round to save the extra work of putting the part in a milling machine to cut a hex.  What is needed is to cut the V groove to the required 36 degree angle for the 20 mm width and have the groove center be in the right place to align with the belt and crankshaft pulley.  Should be easy to machine from 6061-T6 aluminum or 12L14 steel.  

[TOM H. S.]

Perhaps use an pulley off of a WWII MB or GPW Jeep as these are easy to find. Good Luck