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Source for 1940 Road master heater valve


Drakeule

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This is the one I got on eBay. It fits just fine on my 1941 Buick with 3/4” hoses. The vendor has gone up in price by $6 and other sellers may have the same one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294319079861?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ol-mic9IRwK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_Vi_K4SLRYS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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1 hour ago, Kenneth Carr said:

This is the one I got on eBay. It fits just fine on my 1941 Buick with 3/4” hoses. The vendor has gone up in price by $6 and other sellers may have the same one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294319079861?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ol-mic9IRwK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_Vi_K4SLRYS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You only need one of these right ?  I’m in the process of redoing everything on the cooling and heating aspect of the car. 
 

Does anyone happen to know how many feet of heating hose the 41 uses ?

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There is only one of these valves in my car. All it does it prevent hot water from the radiator from flowing to the car heater(s). Otherwise the inside of the car gets quite hot when driving in the summer.

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  • 8 months later...

Seems like an easy valve to fix and a waste of a good chunk of brass if thrown away.  Assuming the beveled surfaces of the valve aren't damaged then repair should be possible.  The valve stem packing material looks less like valve stem packing and more like it is a gasket that functions to seal the stem when the valve is fully opened.  When the valve is fully closed as when no water flow (heat) is needed the beveled surfaces meet and seal.  When water flow is needed, the valve is opened all the way and seal occurs when the washer behind the beveled valve presses against a small gasket at the head of the stem.  If the above is true, then the valve must be either fully opened or fully closed and would leak a little if positioned in any intermediate position.  This also assumes the valve would not be very effective at controlling part flow to modulate the heat levels as one might do during transitional spring or fall months.

 

I'm cleaning miune up and adhering an o-ring on the stem.  It's not about saving money, that idea went away when I bought the car.

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On 1/2/2024 at 9:52 AM, kgreen said:

Seems like an easy valve to fix and a waste of a good chunk of brass if thrown away.  Assuming the beveled surfaces of the valve aren't damaged then repair should be possible.  The valve stem packing material looks less like valve stem packing and more like it is a gasket that functions to seal the stem when the valve is fully opened.  When the valve is fully closed as when no water flow (heat) is needed the beveled surfaces meet and seal.  When water flow is needed, the valve is opened all the way and seal occurs when the washer behind the beveled valve presses against a small gasket at the head of the stem.  If the above is true, then the valve must be either fully opened or fully closed and would leak a little if positioned in any intermediate position.  This also assumes the valve would not be very effective at controlling part flow to modulate the heat levels as one might do during transitional spring or fall months.

 

I'm cleaning miune up and adhering an o-ring on the stem.  It's not about saving money, that idea went away when I bought the car.


I would much prefer to save the original if it can be saved rather than replacing it. Sure it might need some modern engineering skills and materials to make it work, but at least it will still fit. Nothing worse than seeing a modern looking heater valve made who knows where on any Buick.

 

And your line “It’s not about saving money, that idea went away when I bought the car’ bought a huge smile to my face. How true, how true!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

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