Kenneth Carr

They did this to my grandfather’s Zenith console. The shortwave bands were disabled. Nobody ever returned to fix the radio after the war. This was done because he was born in Italy. My grandfather, Andrea Calise, earned his US citizenship in early 1941 when he took his test in front of a local judge. Upon approaching the judge he told him that he had left his glasses at home and so could not read the test. The judge read the test to him and grandpa passed. Glasses were not the issue,my grandfather could not read or write. After coming to this country he eventually brought over his mother and his 10 brothers and sisters. There was a temporary home and a job waiting for each. And during the war his future son-in-law, my dad, served in Paton’s army. Hopefully we never treat our citizens this way again. The photos show gramps (original and colorized) and my parents.

Neil, regarding the frequent adjustments to the radio: most tube-based radios will drift (slight frequency changes) somewhat during the first 30 minutes of operation. Having said that, with AM operation this is barely noticeable. I think the person who made the movie just asked the driver to perform as many adjustments (shift, steer, change frequency, turn corners) as possible so as to add interest to the movie. Now if he was receiving SSB (single side band) signals, he would have to constantly adjust the signal. SSB wasn’t invented until the 1950’s and never offered in a consumer radio.

Thanks, Neil. The ultimate cool!

Restoration of a vibrator:

The vibrator on the 1941 Buick is of the synchronous type. It has one set of contacts that chop the DC to simulate AC and thus activate the step up transformer to create high voltage B+. It has a second set of contacts that act as the rectifier, thus eliminating the need for a rectifier tube. See discussion here: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Forums/t1581.htm I was able to get the proper high value buffer capacitors from justradios.com . He is a reputable dealer who sells quality capacitors and resistors. Here is one method that sometimes restores a vibrator by burning off residue from old foam: http://www.skywaves.ar88.net/commrx/Maintenance/Waking Up.doc.pdf Another method uses diamond files to renew the contacts. There is also a video on You-Tube that shows how to repair a vibrator. If I find the link I will post it here.

I have only worked on the single band version (local AM broadcast, not shortwave). There are some similarities. If the band switch does not move, I recommend treating it with PB Blaster. Do this repeatedly at all friction points. If there are ball bearings along the shaft, target that area too. Each time you apply the blaster, rock the switch slightly. Then let it sit for about an hour. Then repeat. Eventually you may get more movement until finally it breaks free. Stuck switches are usually due to dried up grease. Clean the linkage attached to each push button. They are likely sticking, again due to dirt and grease. Carefully pull each button back towards you rather than pushing in. They should eventually give. Be careful because they tend to crumble due to the poor plastic used. You can also remove them if you like. Some people will apply heat to friction points of a stuck shaft. They use a high temperature soldering iron. This is dangerous since you may damage something such as a wire, plastic, etc. A circuit diagram and some other information is available at Nostalgia Air: Buick Motor: 980660 (nostalgiaair.org) . The following tells how to set up the pushbuttons for particular station recall. The "remove button" instructions may help you get them off. Pushbutton removal: "5 buttons: Remove button by pulling spring located on bottom of button, to the right. Loosen set screw. Tune in desired station by using manual control. Push screw in as far as possible and tighten. Replace button. Follow same procedure for remaining buttons."

If you send your pump out for a rebuild, insist on materials that are not harmed by modern fuels. Also, put an ID mark somewhere on your pump. The place that rebuilt mine sent back the wrong one. I eventually got mine back.

There is only one of these valves in my car. All it does it prevent hot water from the radiator from flowing to the car heater(s). Otherwise the inside of the car gets quite hot when driving in the summer.

This is the one I got on eBay. It fits just fine on my 1941 Buick with 3/4” hoses. The vendor has gone up in price by $6 and other sellers may have the same one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/294319079861?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ol-mic9IRwK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_Vi_K4SLRYS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Regarding the serial number: 1941 - 1948 - Stamped on a plate attached to the upper right side of the fire wall. 1948 vehicles will also have the serial number stamped on a plate attached to the left front door pillar. (copied from Buick Alliance)

Sorry about the nameless icon, Grant. The name here is Ken Carr. Very nice to meet you. I will be following your story. If you need a reference photo of any part, I may be able to supply it. I have a 1941 Roadmaster four door sedan. The cars will have some identical items. I also highly recommend the postings by other owners. Neil Morse, for one, has been especially helpful to me when I had questions.

You have taken some great photographs and displayed even greater enthusiasm! Keep them coming. I did a bunch of under dash work when putting in a new wire loom. It was cramped and I am a lot shorter than you. I only removed the front seat. I like your idea of 'taking it all out'.

Try pages 12-13 and 12-14 of the online 1942 shop manual. It is also discussed in the 1941 manual. I highly recommend that you buy a 1941 shop manual.http://buick.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1942/Buick shop manual/13-Electrical System/image13.html

Have you tried GoJo? It’s a lanolin-based hand cleaner. I clean old radio cabinets with it. This stuff really takes out the dirt. It may allow more of the finish to shine through. Just make sure you use the original formula, not the one with pumice. You can apply and remove with paper towels. Once the towel comes away clean you are done. A quick swipe with a moist paper towel can remove any cleaner residue. As always, test a small area first. You may want to follow with wax or lemon oil as mentioned above. This is the same stuff guys use to get grease off their hands. https://www.amazon.com/ORIGINAL-FORMULA-Fragrance-Crème-Style-Canister/dp/B00065TSSO

If you have some spare ball bearings or steel shot you might want to sand flats on them. It may increase contact surface area. Also, I wonder what a little graphite powder might do?

I like the punch set. There is a lot you can do with these. I use mine for custom washers and such. They work on all sorts of material.

What year did they begin making the later switch? Do you have a photo?. Thanks!

The throttle starter switch on my 1941 Buick had been disconnected and bypassed by installing a button on the dash. I put a multimeter on the two contacts to the switch mounted on the carburetor and tested it. There should be no continuity when the accelerator is not depressed. If you depress the accelerator (pull the linkage while under the hood or better still have someone else depress the accelerator pedal 1/2 way or farther) you should have continuity. That indicates that the switch is working and energizing the starting circuit. If this does not work then you can remove the throttle starter switch and do a good cleaning. That should fix it since gunk gets in there and can mess up a membrane and prevent piston movement too. A good discussion of this is here: Look at the response by JohnD1956 in the above discussion. I solved my bad switch easily because I had a spare NOS carburetor. I tested the switch on that carburetor and it tested good. I swapped it with the old one and it worked fine. So, if you have another carburetor you might want to test the switch on that one. The alternative, if you can't buy a good switch, is to try to clean it and then test again.

That clip looks a lot like the one that holds the sink drain plug lifter to the drain plug shaft that goes out the back of my bathroom sink. It might be easier to make than you think.

Mr. Anderson is on the board of directors for the Buick Heritage Alliance. He may also be an AACA member. If you go to the BHA board page you can click on his name and send him an email. He may have an answer for you. https://www.buickheritagealliance.org/about/board_members

Great idea! I'll give it a try this coming spring!

I can only comment for 1941. In 1941 the spark plug cables were "covered in black rubber; these wires are not date-coded. Terminals are zinc-plated with black rubber insulators covering the connection to the wire at the coil and distributor. There are no insulators at the spark plugs." That quote is from Restoration Facts, 1941 Buick by William C. Anderson. I use Mr. Anderson's book for any questions I have regarding my 1941 Roadmaster.

Barbara, Terry, and Muggins, Thanks for the thoughtful Christmas greeting. You all look great! The RI contingent here in Hope Valley wish the same to you and all of our fellow AACA members.

Sorry I never responded. I did not get the notification that there was a question. I believe it was two different colors as it appears. The top part matches remnants that are still attached to the firewall. I can't recall much else.