Turbine covers, 5.5" vs 6" studs

[riv2x4]

I have a set of 64 restored Turbines that have the studs for 6" wheels.   I took a spare 5.5" and a 6" wheel cover to test fit and it looks like the 5.5" was correct for my car, without removing the tire to actually measure the wheel width.  I am leery of trying to remove the studs and replace with either the 5.5" ones or other similar solutions.

 

For those that have added these did it really matter which stud/wheel combo you have? I'd hate to mess up the restored set by mounting the 6" caps on 5.5" wheels.

[1965rivgs]

Hi Larry,

  I would definitely use the correct studs for your wheel diameter. If you find that you have 5.5 inch wheels and prefer a set of 6 inch wheels, I`m sure I have a set of 6 inchers available.

Tom

[Turbinator]

Larry, what Tom says I’m in complete agreement with putting in the right size studs in the wheel cover for your wheel.

Since, I’ve done a number of these little devils in the case of what is expedient I make my own studs and spacers. Guess what? The wheelcovers fit properly and they don’t come off with home made studs.. Most important besides length and spacer is the quality of your threads. If your original studs threads are in bad shape you can chase them. I’m the case of mix and match studs I’ve always used the spacer on the stud for 6” wheels. I’ve narrowed the length to one size length 5/16” by 18 tpi for the 5.5” or 6”. I’ve found no interference with the fitment. There will be a time when the original studs will be non existent so a substitute will be the solution at that time.

Removing the steel studs from the aluminum boss is achieved by heating the metal stud cherry red. Do not heat the aluminum and cause the aluminum to melt.

You did the right thing by asking. I do it all the time.

Edited February 28, 2023 by Turbinator (see edit history)

[riv2x4]

Thanks.  You both have  confirmed what I suspected was the best answer.  Next step is to remove a wheel from the car and do the test fit again with access to the back of the wheel for easiest confirmation of the wheel width.  Then decide about changing studs vs changing wheels.

 

 

[RivNut]

You measure the wheel with inside the bead on the wheel, not the width across.  

 

If you don’t want to remove the tire/wheel from your car, then dismount the tire to measure the wheel but you want to know the width of the wheel, here’s a way you can do it by leaving everything on the car.  (you’ll still have to remove the wheel cover.) 

 

Cut yourself a stick about 16-1/2” long.  Lay the stick across the edges of the rim, make sure it’s not touching the tire.  
 

Measure the distance from the surface next to the center hole to the bottom of the stick as it lies across the rim.  

 

If the measurement is 3-1/8”, you have a 5-1/2” wheel.  

 

If the measurement is 3-3/8”, you have a 6” wheel.  

 

I measured 1963/1964 wheels. On 1965 and later wheels you will need to take into consideration the height of the lip around the center hole.

[riv2x4]

Ed, so bottom of center hole to rim edge measurement corresponds to wheel width?  Caliper won't work because it isn't the same plane?

[Riviera63]

23 hours ago, riv2x4 said:

Thanks.  You both have  confirmed what I suspected was the best answer.  Next step is to remove a wheel from the car and do the test fit again with access to the back of the wheel for easiest confirmation of the wheel width.  Then decide about changing studs vs changing wheels.

 

 

I went through many trials and tribulations buying steel wheels for my car. I had a vendor sending me 5.5 inch wheels when I wanted 6" and vice versa because the vendor did not know there were 2 different widths. Long story short I figured out for him how to tell the 6" from a 5.5" with the wheel and tire on the car. Measure the rim from one outside edge through the middle of the wheel to the opposite outside edge. I had several of both to measure at that time to confirm this. The 6" wheel is 1/8" wider in diameter than the 5.5" wheel. The measurements I came up with are: 6"=16 5/8" and 5.5"=16 1/2". 

 

Bill

[RivNut]

6 hours ago, riv2x4 said:

Ed, so bottom of center hole to rim edge measurement corresponds to wheel width?  Caliper won't work because it isn't the same plane?

Nope, won’t work.  All you need is a straight stick 16-1/2” long and a 6” ruler.  Keep it simple.

[MikeJS]

1 hour ago, RivNut said:

Nope, won’t work.  All you need is a straight stick 16-1/2” long and a 6” ruler.  Keep it simple.

For clarity, (at least how I interpret your "how to" noted earlier ^^) I think (?) this crude sketch shows the dimensions you are on about.

[RivNut]

20 minutes ago, MikeJS said:

For clarity, (at least how I interpret your "how to" noted earlier ^^) I think (?) this crude sketch shows the dimensions you are on about.

Pretty close. Make sure the horizontal straight edge doesn’t touch the tire. When I measured, I held the vertical ruler right next to the center hole.  There are all sorts of humps and bulbs on the face of the wheel. Just are sure that the vertical ruler is on the flat surface next to the hole.  For you guys with 65 and later wheels, you need to consider the height of the lip around the center hole.  You might need three hands if you’re doing this with the wheel on the car. 😁

[riv2x4]

Hopefully weather this weekend permits me to get a final determination on this.  I'll try both ways of measuring and see they match.

[Turbinator]

On 3/2/2023 at 12:21 PM, riv2x4 said:

Hopefully weather this weekend permits me to get a final determination on this.  I'll try both ways of measuring and see they match.

Take the wheel to a place you buy your tires. They’ll probably take the tire off and on if you don’t dally taking your measurements. I hate spending money frivolously. Getting the measurement right is important. 
Now my detractors poo poo my homemade studs for turbines. I laugh all the way to the bank. Whether the wheel is 5.5” or 6” the one size stud fits. The spacer for the 5.5” wide wheel is of no consequence. The stand off for 6” is tire can go either way. The stand off is there to keep the owner from tightening so much as to pull the steel stud out of the aluminum boss. The standoff measures for the six wheel at 5/16” inside diameter, about 7/16” outside diameter and the stand-off should measure 9/32” to 5/8” high.

good luck

[riv2x4]

I’m dealing with a serious family problem that has put this on the back burner for the immediate future. Not life and death but serious attention needed for a while. 
 

the tires are more than 10 years old so I doubt any reputable tire place will remount them. I was planning on new tires then mounting the covers but needed to see which wheels I have since the recent discussions about stud length and wheel width. 

[RivNut]

3 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Take the wheel to a place you buy your tires. They’ll probably take the tire off and on if you don’t dally taking your measurements. I hate spending money frivolously. Getting the measurement right is important. 
Now my detractors poo poo my homemade studs for turbines. I laugh all the way to the bank. Whether the wheel is 5.5” or 6” the one size stud fits. The spacer for the 5.5” wide wheel is of no consequence. The stand off for 6” is tire can go either way. The stand off is there to keep the owner from tightening so much as to pull the steel stud out of the aluminum boss. The standoff measures for the six wheel at 5/16” inside diameter, about 7/16” outside diameter and the stand-off should measure 9/32” to 5/8” high.

good luck

If you don’t use the stand-off, besides what Turb says above, you can also tighten the cover against the wheel and crack the other rim of the cover.  All you need to do is make sure there’s a small gap between the wheel and the cover.  

[Turbinator]

On 2/28/2023 at 11:49 AM, 1965rivgs said:

would definitely use the correct studs for your wheel diameter

That would be a 5/16ths x 18 tpi for the 5 1/2” wide wheel. For the 6”wide wheel the same size stud with 5/16” stand off. A nut with washer on the stud to hold the wheel cover. The new stud bolts are better because the thread in the aluminum alloy bosses better. The car, wheelcover, and wheel appreciate the new hardware. Many times the rusted galvanized steel stud bolts have to be heated to remove them from the cast aluminum alloy boss and the threads are rusted. Reuse 60 year old rusted stud bolts to hold on wheel cover? I’m all for maximizing utility, recycling, repurposing, and waste not want not. Reminds me of my Blacksmith Grandfather having  me strip barn wood of the nails and straightening the damn nails to use again. Depression Era thinking a phrase I picked up from Bernie Dailey.

[RivNut]

Here’s a picture of cast wheel cover factory studs for both the 5-1/2” and 6” wheels. The ones Laos next to the steel rule will give you an idea of the dimensions. There is a 1/4” difference in the width of the shoulder; that’s one-half of the difference in the width of the wheels.