Super Glue by Loctite

[Brian_Heil]

We all have a need for it from time to time,  and I rarely if ever give a product recommendation but this stuff is really easy to work with.  
 

Gel so it flows slowly.  

 

Best part is the squeeze levers on the bottle to control delivery volume. 

 

See through capillary nozzle so you can see when the glue is about to appear 

 

Cap that seals the capillary correctly so you  can actually use the product time and time again without a frozen in place cap. 
 

Just think, my fingers weren’t glued together either so I could type this!

Edited February 21, 2023 by Brian_Heil (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

Interesting and thanks for posting  @Brian_Heil  as I have used this a few times, the last being on a broken tooth. (prehistoric fossilized sharks tooth that is he he )  Has anyone used it on pot metal and if so with what results. Let's hear what you and others have used it on.....

[Dave39MD]

Lamar, Very good question maybe we should move this to technical for more eyes. I was wondering the same thing with this bracket. The potmetal wasn't falling apart just careless handling.

 

ps Looks like cracks around the metal post when viewing in the photo so this may not be a good candidate but still a good question. To a foundry we go on this one.

 

Dave

Edited March 10, 2023 by Dave39MD (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

I do not think this will work on any metals.  I could be wrong.  I did use this glue to make a complete wood remote control boat.   It made setting each blank and wood piece a breeze.  No clamping until dry.  30 seconds at most.       

[neil morse]

I have used CA (cyanoacrylate) glue for years on my RC airplane models.  As Chris mentions, it is best for gluing balsa and other soft woods where it wicks into the material that you are gluing.  It basically revolutionized the building of wooden models for just the reason that Chris said -- you no longer had to truss everything up with pins on a board to hold things in place while conventional wood glue dried.  Instead, just a tiny drop of thin CA applied when the pieces are already in place and it's bonded in seconds.  You can get it in various thicknesses depending on your application.  You can also get "kicker" in a spray bottle that causes it to cure instantly which is helpful in certain situations.

 

Although it can also work with materials that are not porous, it is far less effective in those applications.  It would not be suitable, in my opinion, for use with pot metal, especially a large piece like the one in the picture Dave posted.

 

The downside to CA, as anyone who has used it knows, it that it will almost inevitably end up where you don't want it (Murphy's Law) unless you are extremely careful.  And the thinner the CA you are using, the more this is true.  This Locktite applicator sounds ideal since half the battle with CA is getting it just where you want it and nowhere else.  As many of us have also learned, it is extremely effective in gluing human skin (in fact used as an alternative to suturing).  Stories of people gluing various parts of their bodies together (such as fingers, or worse, eyelids) are common in the model building hobby.  I once glued my feet to the floor when I was working in bare feet holding the parts I was gluing between my knees.  So be careful out there!

[EmTee]

It does work fine on non-porous material (e.g., metal).  The Reliability Engineers where I worked would use it to mount metal blocks to the test fixture where accelerometers would be attached for shock or vibration testing.  The key is that the surfaces had to be flat and clean - as with those windshield mounted rear-view mirror buttons.  They could be removed later by giving the block a sharp whack with a mallet.  The key is to have clean surfaces and use LESS glue than you think you otherwise should.