neil morse Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 10 hours ago, deac said: It doesn't sound like a fun job replacing it either. No, it's not a fun job! Getting the instrument panel off and the gauge out is a major undertaking. Then you have the problem of getting the temperature sensor out of the block, which is often difficult because they tend to get stuck. NOS gauges sometimes come up on Ebay. I was able to find one for my '41 (same part as for your '40.) I saw one about a month ago on Ebay, but I just checked and it's no longer there. If you can get the original gauge out without further damage to the capillary tube and sensor, it is probably repairable. But given the uncertainty, you would be much better off having a replacement in hand before attempting the removal of the existing one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 If /when you remove the sensor from the head, BEWARE. The rear rocker arm stand , lower bolt, directly above the sensor MAY be screwed too far down and be pinching the sensor bulb. I have found this to be true a few times. Just remove the bolt, or stud, before attempting to remove the sensor. Ben 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 On the bolt / stud Ben mentions. If you do remove it be sure to use at thread sealant on the bolt when you install it or you may get water leakage past the threads ending up with water in the oil. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) Let's back up for a moment. Never replaced one before and I'm haven't looked diligently as to where the capillary tube is located in the engine. Do I need to remove the valve cover and cylinder head to get to it? Edited February 6, 2023 by deac (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 You have to drain some coolant too. If it's like our 36, the tube was already broken. It took forever to the bulb out. We had it rebuilt for around $250 if I remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, deac said: Let's back up for a moment. Never replace one before and I'm haven't looked diligently as to where the capillary tube is located in the engine. Do I need to remove the valve cover and cylinder head to get to it? As Rock says, coolant needs to be drained until below the sensor head. Head does not need to be removed. The valve cover and the stud I mentioned ONLY if the sensor does not come out easily. Assuming you know where the sensor is. For readers that may not , it is at the back passenger side of the head above # 8 spark plug. If the spark plug cover is installed, it is hidden under neath. Back out the nut that holds the bulb in place. If the bulb wants to stay bedded, one can then remove the valve cover, then the stud /bolt from the back rocker arm stand. This was a stud from the factory. Many have been replaced with a bolt. If the stud is the original and is not contacting the bulb, the bulb may be coated with lime, calcium or other coolant residue. A little vinegar poured down the bolt hole can help. Chances are the darn thing will come right out. Ben Edited February 6, 2023 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 Ours was a pain to get out, but it did come and we were able to get it all rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted March 27, 2023 Author Share Posted March 27, 2023 (edited) well I found a NOS unit never used from eBay. But as I understand it buying it is the easy part.... Edited March 28, 2023 by deac (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 38 minutes ago, deac said: well I NOS unit never used from eBay. But as I understand it buying it is the easy part.... Haha -- correct! But you certainly found a nice one. As I posted earlier, the job of removing the panel and replacing the gauge is a "major undertaking," but it's doable. I actually enjoyed the project of pulling my dash completely apart and installing a new wiring harness (was well as the new temperature gauge). I just depends on how you want to spend your time. If you go ahead with it, I will have some tips for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 I'd stick the bulb in a pot of water to test it. Use a thermometer to measure when the water is 180° and then note the needle position on the gauge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted March 28, 2023 Author Share Posted March 28, 2023 13 hours ago, neil morse said: Haha -- correct! But you certainly found a nice one. As I posted earlier, the job of removing the panel and replacing the gauge is a "major undertaking," but it's doable. I actually enjoyed the project of pulling my dash completely apart and installing a new wiring harness (was well as the new temperature gauge). I just depends on how you want to spend your time. If you go ahead with it, I will have some tips for you. I won't take on this project for couple of months but when I do I certainly will come knocking at your virtual door for those tips. FWIW I believe the car has been rewired by Seybold. Whether that will ease the pain any I can't be sure. 12 hours ago, EmTee said: I'd stick the bulb in a pot of water to test it. Use a thermometer to measure when the water is 180° and then note the needle position on the gauge. That's a great idea. First I have to get the thermometer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 I second EmTee's suggestion. My gauge, even though it was NOS, actually needed to be recalibrated and I had to send it to a guy in Vermont for that purpose. Here are pics of when I checked the gauge when I got it back: If your car was rewired by Seybold, that will definitely make things easier for you in at least two ways. First, you will know that all the fasteners holding the dash together are clean and will turn fairly easily. And second, a new harness means that you won't have to deal with old wiring where the insulation turns to dust the moment you touch it. Even though you're only replacing the temperature gauge, you are going to have to move the other gauges to get access. The wiring on my car was a disaster before I replaced it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted March 28, 2023 Author Share Posted March 28, 2023 So I assume that the fasteners on the left side of the gauge panel are hard to get to, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 I don't know about yours, but when I worked on our 36, we had the front seat out and it still took a lot of twisting and turning to get to the back side of things. Never a good place for your head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 2 hours ago, deac said: So I assume that the fasteners on the left side of the gauge panel are hard to get to, no? Yes, that's probably going to be the most difficult part of the job -- except maybe for getting those nuts back on, which is even harder. The main problems are access and visibility (plus, of course, contorting one's body to be able to get a wrench on the nuts and turn them). I strongly recommend taking the front seat out, as Rock10 mentions -- in fact, I'm not sure it would even be possible with the seat in place. Get a few of those powerful LED flashlights with the magnetic mounting brackets -- getting the light in the right place is half the battle. Then have a good set of sockets with different length extensions and U-joints. Here's the part of my "Me and My Buick" thread where I cover this job (click on arrow in upper right-hand corner to get to the right starting post). I strongly suggest that you consider replacing the dash lights with LED's while you're in there. I have more detailed suggestions that I will happily give you if you PM me when you're closer to starting. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted March 29, 2023 Author Share Posted March 29, 2023 I will let you know when I start the project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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