deac Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 (edited) I am looking for a spark plug cover. I believe a 37 thru 40 are the same. Dave Tacheny and Bob's don't have any. Any other sources? Edited December 12, 2022 by deac (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 deac, I have one that is for later years. It will fit. I am not sure if it is exact look. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: deac, I have one that is for later years. It will fit. I am not sure if it is exact look. Ben I read somewhere that the early 40 Buicks used the rounded ones from 37 to 39. Later 40's cars used the squared off covers with the louvers on either side probably from 41 to 53 like the one you have. Edited December 13, 2022 by deac (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 (edited) Picture of the 1940 engine, second also states a `40 engine. Looks like the larger engine. Edited December 13, 2022 by pont35cpe (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiKi5156B Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 (edited) I've got one I think was on one of the 40 specials I parted. Rounded and not squared off. Will need blasted and painted looks just like the one in the first pic. Edited December 13, 2022 by RiKi5156B (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted December 13, 2022 Author Share Posted December 13, 2022 I can blast it and paint it. With that in mind how much do you want for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiKi5156B Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 20 + ship Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted December 14, 2022 Author Share Posted December 14, 2022 20 + shipping? Sold! Let me know how to proceed with the sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 2 hours ago, deac said: 20 + shipping? Sold! Let me know how to proceed with the sale. BARGAIN! Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Don't forget the nuts! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Deez Nuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 It's been a couple of days, are you still interested in selling the spark plug cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted December 18, 2022 Author Share Posted December 18, 2022 RiKi5156B: I sent another PM; please read.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 I did receive the spark cover in the condition that was described! I found the push rod gasket was interfering with the spark plug cover and leaking so I removed it yesterday. Isn't the gasket supposed to be made of cork? The one that was on the car was not cork and was oil saturated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 10 hours ago, deac said: Isn't the gasket supposed to be made of cork? The one that was on the car was not cork and was oil saturated. Sounds like the one I found on my '38. I can't say for sure what the originals were made from, but I would guess cork. Mine was also a fiber/composite gasket and was totally saturated and acting more like a filter than a gasket... The replacement I received from CARS was a 'Best' gasket made from cork. The top of the gasket on my pushrod cover had slipped down far enough to open a 3 or 4 inch gap across the top... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 I had the same problem with my '38 Special where the gasket for the pushrod cover interfered with the spark plog cover. I trimmed the gasket, using an EXACTO knife, as close to the cover as I could, a touch below the edge if the metal. The plug cover now goes on by slipping its edge behind the edge of the pushrod cover before engaging the retaining studs of the plug cover. I'm guessing that I could fiddle with the pushrod cover to lower it, but it is now leak free and since it was such a PITA to get it that way, I'm not going to fool with it. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 I spoke to the previous owners mechanic and he swore up and down that he had resealed the push rod rod cover gasket and the valve cover gasket. Well I already replaced the valve cover gasket because it too was fiber composite and at the same time I refinished the valve cover too. Now the push rod cover gasket! I called Bob's and ordered the gasket and I inquired about its make and they said it was cork. I just keep getting reminded on old cars that if I want something repaired I must do it myself. Most guys out today there who work on these cars these days DON'T know what they're doing. To make matters worse on this repair the guy used a good amount of silicone in conjunction with a fiber composite gasket on both the engine block surface and the cover surface. I spent close to 2 hours cleaning that crap off! I know the way I was taught when it came to gaskets and sealers, that wasn't the way I would have done it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Having others do work for you can be frustrating. I have always done all my own work = so I knew who to blame. Getting the pushrod cover sealed is a real PITA since the distributor is in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 10 hours ago, DonMicheletti said: Having others do work for you can be frustrating. I have always done all my own work = so I knew who to blame. Getting the pushrod cover sealed is a real PITA since the distributor is in the way. If one gets them to NOT LEAK, one is a wizard or very lucky. Even the cork can "wick" some. Stamped sheet metal covers are seldom "flat:. Not like today's O rings. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 10 hours ago, DonMicheletti said: Getting the pushrod cover sealed is a real PITA since the distributor is in the way. After a couple of test-fits, I concluded that it was too tricky with the distributor in place, so I removed mine before installing the cover for good. It's pretty easy to remove and replace the distributor, as the Octane Selector makes it possible to get it back where it was without having to use a timing light. I also modified a couple of bolts to act as temporary studs to help get the cover alignment correct. I used thin beads of gasketmaker on both sides of the new cork gasket. I first applied the gasket to the cover and clamped it in place overnight. Next day I installed the cover on the engine. This was right before the Glidden Tour and so far, it is leak-free... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 I think getting the distributor out of the way is a great and necessaary help. Mine don't leak either doing it that way (as EmTee describes) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 16, 2023 Author Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) Just an update: I went to proceed with the gasket replacement yesterday and I discovered the pushrod cover was bent and probably contributed to the oil leak. I had a friend help straighten it for me and he did a great job! I then prepared and affixed the gasket to the pushrod cover and mounted it to the engine and it fit like a glove!. I did not know the torque specs on the fasteners so I seated the fasteners and then put I would guess about 25ft-pounds of torque on them. I wasn't sure if the top of the gasket would interfere with the spark plug cover so I did a test fit and found it didn't interfere. I did not remove the distributor but I must say it would have made things a lot easier. Next weekend I will continue on with my original intended spark plug wire project. Edited January 17, 2023 by deac (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Check the cover pushrod cover nuts periodically for a couple of weeks. The cork will 'take a set' and the nuts will get loose. I don't recall the torque I used, but I think it was 75~80 in-lbs. My cover is pretty heavy - it would take some effort to bend it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 17, 2023 Author Share Posted January 17, 2023 (edited) So on a 248 motor what is the approximant torque I should use on the fasteners? Is 75in-lbs something I should shoot for? Edited January 17, 2023 by deac (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 My torque setting was not from any book - I just kept increasing the setting on my wrench until it 'felt right'... I didn't want to squeeze the gasket too hard. It hasn't leaked, so I figured it was tight enough. Mine was also leaking from under the nuts, so I replaced the copper washers with a neoprene washer backed by a steel washer. That seems to have stopped the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 (edited) Honestly, mine is just hand tight. Those nuts are pretty big and I guess I got them tight enough. I forgot it was that way until I went to do a valve adjustment. I just did it that way again afterwards since it worked without leaking before. Edited January 17, 2023 by 39BuickEight (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 8 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said: I forgot it was that way until I went to do a valve adjustment. Just to be clear, I was talking about the pushrod cover, not the valve cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share Posted January 18, 2023 Based on what I am reading here I think I've got it where it needs to be. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 20 hours ago, deac said: Based on what I am reading here I think I've got it where it needs to be. If not, it will become obvious after a few drive cycles... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 On 1/17/2023 at 6:04 PM, EmTee said: Just to be clear, I was talking about the pushrod cover, not the valve cover. Oops! I saw a pic of the nut and my brain went to valve cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) I thought to update this thread: This project actually started with the intention of resealing the valve cover and it quickly became a lot more than that which is typical of old cars! From the valve cover reseal with a new cork gasket to replacing of the pushrod cover gasket. I found and installed a spark plug cover which necessitated new ignition wires. Then I found I needed to replace of the vacuum advance line. I bought 8mm MSD Street Fire ignition wires installed them on the spark plugs, arranged them and put the cover on and realized I bought a wire set with 90 degree distributor boots! So the picture shows the current state of progress. Edited January 22, 2023 by deac (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 Looks like you have the oil leaks under control. It shouldn't be too hard to re-terminate the wires once you get the pieces. Do you have an external oil filter on your car? I see the hose running up to the front of the cylinder head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) I do hope the former mechanics previous work is good but I had to re-do some of his work already; valve and pushrod covers. I have only driven it maybe 50 miles since I bought it. I do have an external oil filter. For some reason a former owner thought it would be cool to mount it in a non-original location. But it does work and the install was done right. Edited January 22, 2023 by deac (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 They sure look good until driven. BEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 29, 2023 Author Share Posted January 29, 2023 (edited) I did finish with the wires and it came out pretty good. See before and after photos! I then took the car out for a 15 mile road test which included a quick jaunt on the highway and the there were no misfires and the engine ran strong. I returned to our shop with a confident smile on my face! What made me even happier was there were virtually no oil leaks. But there was one more head scratching discovery I found and that was the condition of the coolant. I think it has 100 percent ethylene glycol in it and it was a little murky. Even though the engine temperature stays around 110 degrees and obviously never overheats. But that condition won't fly with me. So I bought a bottle of 100% ethylene glycol coolant and plan to either drain flush and refill or just drain and refill the the cooling system tomorrow. Remember the previous mechanic said to me that he resealed everything on this car and I don't have to do anything! Yeah right! before after Edited January 29, 2023 by deac (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 29, 2023 Share Posted January 29, 2023 8 hours ago, deac said: ...it was a little murky. Just cloudy, or did it have some color (other than green)? I agree; give it a flush and see what happens. You may want to drain, flush, fill with water, drive, cool, then drain and fill with 50/50 EG & water. That will help rinse it out and you may be better able to see anything that comes out in the plain water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 I drained the coolant today and it turned out to be 'Gold' coolant. I flushed the gold stuff out and filled it with 50/50 ethylene glycol and water. Had the engine running for 1/2 hour and the temp gauge stayed at 175-180. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 30, 2023 Share Posted January 30, 2023 The gold coolant is OK; I think that @Bloo actually uses it in his '36 Pontiac because he found it to be less likely to foam. I have some I was going to use in my '38 Buick next time I change the coolant. Color aside, it sounds like you didn't see much rust or other debris, which is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted January 30, 2023 Author Share Posted January 30, 2023 2 hours ago, EmTee said: The gold coolant is OK; I think that @Bloo actually uses it in his '36 Pontiac because he found it to be less likely to foam. I have some I was going to use in my '38 Buick next time I change the coolant. Color aside, it sounds like you didn't see much rust or other debris, which is good. no, not any debris found. I was under the impression that ethylene glycol was the only coolant to used. Any other color or any long life was a no no. If I had known that gold was okay I would not have gone to all that trouble. But oh well it's done now. But I am suspicious of that temperature gauge. I think it's okay but it's kind of lazy. I know it never over heated during the 15 and 30 minute tests done after the coolant change at idle and nothing got excessively hot. It does have a 7 lbs cap and I tested it and it keeps pressure at 7lbs. Hence it never puked the new coolant through the over flow pipe at the neck of the radiator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deac Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) Well I drove 53 miles in my Buick this morning. The car never overheated or missed a beat and cruised at 60 mph comfortably. No fluids seen leaking after drive! I did confirm something today the temperature gauge doesn't work! I had to periodically check the temp with a IR temperature gun; what a drag! It is a capillary type gauge. It doesn't sound like a fun job replacing it either. If anyone has one for sale let me know... Edited February 5, 2023 by deac (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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